AAvK notes:
"TS but I use three different ones. I think this one is a fine deal,
but I also know that the
motor is only 1-1/2 horse power, I think that is not enough power to
effectively rip
8/4 maple stock because in doing such, I had to use a 3hp cab saw to do
it in adult ed.
and I had to send the blade upwards three times even with that, to make
one cut, a
Chinese 12" saw that was a donation to the shop. With the Sears saw you
might up
the blade 4-5 times for one cut."
Up the blade? Why would you raise the blade? If you have a good blade,
and feed properly, almost any decently made 1-1/2 HP saw will cut 8/4
hard maple. It won't do it all day, every day, but if you're having
feed problems that cause you to raise the blade, I'd
suggest--strongly--that you check the blade for sharpness.
I've got one of the 1-3/4 HP Sears hybrid saws, and while I've not cut
any maple with it, I have cut some 12/4 cherry, a wood that burns just
as easily. No problem at all using the original blade and making the
cuts in a 9' long section. It does take care in feeding, but that's the
operator, not the saw.
If you had trouble cutting 8/4 maple with a 3 HP saw, I'd really
suggest you toss the blade and get a better one.
Another point: now often do any of us rip 8/4 maple or oak? And how
much do we rip when we do it? Is it worth spending the extra hundreds
of dollars to outfit ourselves to handle a very occasional need that
can usually be dealt with simply by using the sharpest blade on hand
and slowing the feed.
Bsmug wrote:
> This may have been asked already, but has anyone got the Sears
Cabinet
> saw, they are selling in their stores now. Looks pretty good, just
> wondering how it compares to other cabinet saws.
> Thanks
Saw the picture in the link someone posted. Looks solid, but couldn't
say for sure until I saw it in person.
Though, for slightly less than a grand, you are in the ballpark of a
decent used Delta/Jet/Grizzly... with a more powerful motor, a bigger
table and (not sure if it is true but heard Craftsman slots weren't
standard size) but standard miter gauge slots.
Save for a bit longer, keep your eyes out for a deal (ebay maybe just
look for one located near you) and you can probably do better.
UA100 asks:
Charlie Self wrote:
>It is not a cabinet saw. It has some cabinet saw features, but it's
not
>in a class with the Unisaw, nor is it intended to be. For more
>information, do a search on here on "hybrid" saws.
Soooooooooooooooooooooo, what exactly defines a cabinet saw?
UA100
Multiple belts, more power primarily, but the real definition of any
saw is in the mind of the manufacturer. This Orion product is classed
as a hybrid, as is one Jet and the originator of the class, the larger
DeWalt table saw. I understand General also produces a hybrid.
TeamCasa Feb 15, 3:34 pm show options
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> - Find messages by this author
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 15:34:38 -0800
Local: Tues, Feb 15 2005 3:34 pm
Subject: Re: Sears CabinetTable Saw
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> motor is only 1-1/2 horse power, I think that is not enough power to
> effectively rip
> 8/4 maple stock because in doing such, I had to use a 3hp cab saw to
do it
> in adult ed.
> and I had to send the blade upwards three times even with that, to
make
> one cut, a
> Chinese 12" saw that was a donation to the shop. With the Sears saw
you
> might up
> the blade 4-5 times for one cut.
Was the blade installed backwards? I had an old 1 1/2hp contractor saw
that
would slice 8/4 hard maple with little trouble.
See the thread on Forrest.
Nah. But it had a visible wobble. I guess wobbles don't matter.
I still don't understand how raising the blade three times let him
finish the cut.
captmi asks:
[email protected] Feb 15, 7:48 pm show options
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
From: [email protected] - Find messages by this author
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 22:48:06 -0500
Local: Tues, Feb 15 2005 7:48 pm
Subject: Re: Sears CabinetTable Saw
Yeah... but why buy the saw with the long skirt when you can buy the
same saw with a mini skirt for $699 and have the guys at Sears load it
into your pickup?
To start, the Biesemeyer fence. Also, the longer skirt makes for better
dust collection, and the motor is ever slightly more powerful, at 1-3/4
HP.
The cheaper saw does NOT have the Biese fence.
The Leitz blade on the top of the line saw approaches the Forrest in
cut quality, by the way.
AAvK wrote:
> I also know that the motor is only 1-1/2 horse power, I think that is
> not enough power to effectively rip 8/4 maple stock
Table saw power has been adequately covered in this thread, but I
wanted to mention that a good partner to a low-power table saw is a
band saw. If I have something really thick or tough to rip, I just rip
it on my band saw. I can clean it up with my #7 jointer plane. Or, if I
just bandsaw about 1/16" proud, I can quickly run it through the table
saw to clean up that last 1/16, which will go very quickly with only
one side of a kerf for the saw to deal with.
-Mike
I have a Sears 1-1/2 HP table saw, and I have done a fair amount of
ripping of 8/4 maple, as well as rosewood, purpleheart, walnut, and koa
as thick or thicker, in a single pass. You've just got to take it
slow, and a sharp blade really helps.
BTW, you need a ripping blade for this application. Those 60 and
80-tooth blades make a nice clean cut, but they generate more heat too.
--Steve
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Nah. But it had a visible wobble. I guess wobbles don't matter.
>
Poor man's dado...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
> motor is only 1-1/2 horse power, I think that is not enough power to
> effectively rip
> 8/4 maple stock because in doing such, I had to use a 3hp cab saw to do it
> in adult ed.
> and I had to send the blade upwards three times even with that, to make
> one cut, a
> Chinese 12" saw that was a donation to the shop. With the Sears saw you
> might up
> the blade 4-5 times for one cut.
Was the blade installed backwards? I had an old 1 1/2hp contractor saw that
would slice 8/4 hard maple with little trouble.
See the thread on Forrest.
Dave
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"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> writes:
>UA100 asks:
>Soooooooooooooooooooooo, what exactly defines a cabinet saw?
>UA100
>Multiple belts, more power primarily, but the real definition of any
>saw is in the mind of the manufacturer. This Orion product is classed
>as a hybrid, as is one Jet and the originator of the class, the larger
>DeWalt table saw. I understand General also produces a hybrid.
I thought a cabinet saw is defined by having the trunnion attached the
cabinet instead of to the top?
Brian Elfert
Charlie...
I thought they both had 1½ HP motors, so my bad. On the fence, the
one that comes with the model #OR35505 $649 unit sure looked nice, and
would probably be OK for many of us on a budget. They both include a
dust chute/port, so hooking up a DC system shouldn't be too much of
big deal. You gotta' understand I'm just a hack getting by with my
30-year old craftsman and its original fence.
Given the choice of that saw with the OEM fence and WWII blade and
$200 large in my pocket vs the "better" sears saw with the Biese...
I'm thinking about what other tool I could buy, or some nice wood, or
maybe a night at Foxwoods!
Mike
On 16 Feb 2005 02:05:09 -0800, "Charlie Self" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>captmi asks:
>
> [email protected] Feb 15, 7:48 pm show options
>
>Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
>From: [email protected] - Find messages by this author
>Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 22:48:06 -0500
>Local: Tues, Feb 15 2005 7:48 pm
>Subject: Re: Sears CabinetTable Saw
>
>Yeah... but why buy the saw with the long skirt when you can buy the
>same saw with a mini skirt for $699 and have the guys at Sears load it
>into your pickup?
>
>To start, the Biesemeyer fence. Also, the longer skirt makes for better
>dust collection, and the motor is ever slightly more powerful, at 1-3/4
>HP.
>
>The cheaper saw does NOT have the Biese fence.
>
>The Leitz blade on the top of the line saw approaches the Forrest in
>cut quality, by the way.
I purchased this Sears "cabinet" saw back in late December on sale. It is a
Hybrid (not a cabinet / not a contractor's table saw - sort of a mixture of
both).
All in all, I like it. It replaced a 15 year old Craftsman table saw that I
just simply wore out. It needed a new motor, the top was steel and not cast
so it was just beat to death but I made a lot of saw dust with that baby.
Regarding the new saw, it cuts true and I just love the Biesemeyer fence. A
well worth investment. Quieter too and I like that in my enclosed shop.
Here are a few things to note from my experience...
Make sure you have help. The sucker is heavy. The saw for the most part
comes pre-assembled but it is a bear to get in and out of the truck from the
store. Comes in two boxes but the saw is bolted to a metal pallet. The
fence comes in the second box.
It will take two to set up and install the cast iron extensions. Heavy and
cumbersome considering the way they get bolted on and leveled. Rest of the
assembly and calibration is straightforward. The blade guard & splitter are
a definite improvement over what Craftsman had in the past. The guard /
splitter come off with the loosening of a knob. You do not have to remove
the blade guard, etc.
Speaking of blade guards, for about $20 or so, invest in a zero clearance
one and do not use the stock guard. Opening is large (what were they
thinking?) but the nice thing is that the guard on this model is the same
size as the Delta left tilt table so you can order the Delta model from just
about anywhere on the web.
Dust collection is fair. There is a 4" duct on the back but I found that I
still need to open up the side door and vacuum the inside out from there. My
dust collector is fairly powerful but does not seem to have enough to clean
out the saw. Coming from a contractor's saw where all the dust was on the
floor, anything was an improvement.
One addition I do like is the outfeed table that drops down. It is only
stamped steel but better than the adjustable roller stand that I was using.
Hope this helps. Buy it on sale when they are taking another 10% for the
Craftsman club.
--
John
"Bsmug" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This may have been asked already, but has anyone got the Sears Cabinet
> saw, they are selling in their stores now. Looks pretty good, just
> wondering how it compares to other cabinet saws.
> Thanks
> Up the blade? Why would you raise the blade? If you have a good blade,
> and feed properly, almost any decently made 1-1/2 HP saw will cut 8/4
> hard maple. It won't do it all day, every day, but if you're having
> feed problems that cause you to raise the blade, I'd
> suggest--strongly--that you check the blade for sharpness.
I tried it. Didn't work, as it was far too slow and HOT! The Oliver 270D carried
not one single problem doing it.
I watched the blade being put onto the Chinese saw 12" as it was mentioned to
be newly sharpened. When I finally got to use it for the maple it was about 1-1/2
months or more after that. The blade does need a stabilizer though, I can tell
when it slows to a stop, it's got some slight wobble. These folks sharpened it, they
are in my town: http://www.carbide.com/ they have three of my handsaws as of
yesterday.
> I've got one of the 1-3/4 HP Sears hybrid saws, and while I've not cut
> any maple with it, I have cut some 12/4 cherry, a wood that burns just
> as easily. No problem at all using the original blade and making the
> cuts in a 9' long section. It does take care in feeding, but that's the
> operator, not the saw.
That is a good example being 12/4 cherry, it's still not what maple is though...
in fact the only close factor is that they are both "wood".
> If you had trouble cutting 8/4 maple with a 3 HP saw, I'd really
> suggest you toss the blade and get a better one.
It takes a loooooong time to get the ol' fella to get anything needed done though.
He is about 85.
> Another point: now often do any of us rip 8/4 maple or oak? And how
> much do we rip when we do it? Is it worth spending the extra hundreds
> of dollars to outfit ourselves to handle a very occasional need that
> can usually be dealt with simply by using the sharpest blade on hand
> and slowing the feed.
>
I still gave a good perspective of all possibilities, from it you could add up all
the aspects... being my real point. I add it up to being able to build nominal house
furniture using a table saw, as should any woodworker. I don't think too many
people can say "I'll only build little boxes and small pieces". I can see a 1-1/2 HP
contractor saw as being for framing building using doug fir. Not for serious work
in a shop using hardwoods. Give me 3hp/12" at the very least. Not that I am an
expert.
There is one fellow in adult ed. class who arrived with an 8/4 white oak board and
is cutting it up and building a bed frame with it but using the oliver, so, often
enough bro... and I definitely slowed the feed next to a very hard to use fence.
Equipement-wise, it could be a far better situatuation if he kept up. It has taken
about eight months since he first promised to put sharp blades on the 12" jointer.
Looks like it might be coming up soon. Sorry to sound so "mechanical" in the way
I express myself but I do have three different chemical imbalances upstairs here...
Are you happy with your table saw (I do know which one it is)?
--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:LeuQd.96748$mt.79065@fed1read03...
>
>
> I still gave a good perspective of all possibilities, from it you could
add up all
> the aspects... being my real point. I add it up to being able to build
nominal house
> furniture using a table saw, as should any woodworker. I don't think too
many
> people can say "I'll only build little boxes and small pieces". I can see
a 1-1/2 HP
> contractor saw as being for framing building using doug fir. Not for
serious work
> in a shop using hardwoods. Give me 3hp/12" at the very least. Not that I
am an
> expert.
That's kind of a hard argument to pass off on people who have used 1 1/2 -
2HP table saws for years and have indeed cut the very woods you mention. Of
course, we are all entitled to our own opinions and I certainly have nothing
against a saw that is bigger then mine, and I can recognize certain benefits
to a bigger saw, but... those benefits do not - time and woodworking have
proven - do not support your claim above.
>
> There is one fellow in adult ed. class who arrived with an 8/4 white oak
board and
> is cutting it up and building a bed frame with it but using the oliver,
so, often
> enough bro... and I definitely slowed the feed next to a very hard to use
fence.
> Equipement-wise, it could be a far better situatuation if he kept up. It
has taken
> about eight months since he first promised to put sharp blades on the 12"
jointer.
> Looks like it might be coming up soon. Sorry to sound so "mechanical" in
the way
> I express myself but I do have three different chemical imbalances
upstairs here...
>
Alex - from everything you've said about your adult.ed environment, it is
about the most ill equipped I've heard of. You are making judgments on
classes of machinery based on experiences with very poorly maintained tools,
improperly set up tools, and in general, an environment that probably 80% of
the folks here would not consider acceptable in their home shops. The good
news - there's a whole bunch of good news awaiting you. The first time you
use a well set up 1 1/2HP saw, you'll be thrilled at what you "discovered".
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
on 2/15/2005 4:42 PM AAvK said the following:
> There's even
>
>>been a rumor that the Sears saw is identical under the table
>>to the Delta WantsaBeACabinetSaw.
>>Sears:
>>http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00922124000
>>
>>Delta:
>>http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5851
>>
>>UA100
>
>
>
> Yeah... and the wantsabe is cheaper: http://www.toolking.com/delta/view.asp?ID=11750
Yeah, but Tool King doesn't really say that shipping is free, only that
expedited ground shipping is NOT available but regular ground shipping,
if available, is free. What do you want to bet that ground shipping is
UPS and they won't be hustling that 400lb+ saw over to your shop<g>
If I walk into the local Sears hardware store, I'm guessing they'll help
load one into my van or truck so no shipping.
Then too, the Sears has a Biesemeyer 30" Commercial Saw Fence, the Delta
has, well, a Delta fence as far as I can tell. You can get the
Biesenmeyer from Tool King and it's only an extra $350 on sale<g>
Fortunately or unfortunately, I'm not currently in the market. I did
see the saw at Sears and it looked pretty nice. Maybe "Crapsman" is
trying to make a comeback. Their stationery power tools used to be
pretty solid and then became plastic crap, IMO. I'd welcome the return
of some solid stuff from them.
There's even
> been a rumor that the Sears saw is identical under the table
> to the Delta WantsaBeACabinetSaw.
> Sears:
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00922124000
>
> Delta:
> http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5851
>
> UA100
Yeah... and the wantsabe is cheaper: http://www.toolking.com/delta/view.asp?ID=11750
--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>I have a Sears 1-1/2 HP table saw, and I have done a fair amount of
> ripping of 8/4 maple, as well as rosewood, purpleheart, walnut, and koa as thick or thicker, in a single pass. You've just got to
> take it slow, and a sharp blade really helps.
>
> BTW, you need a ripping blade for this application. Those 60 and 80-tooth blades make a nice clean cut, but they generate more
> heat too.
>
> --Steve
>
Okay okay okay you guys... then that Chinese saw needs one serious tuning-
up all around. It'll never get done and I know it. Thanks for clearing things up.
Sheesh! But, now I know for the future, if I get to the point where I can have
my own saw.
--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 11:38:41 -0500, Bsmug <[email protected]> wrote:
>This may have been asked already, but has anyone got the Sears Cabinet
>saw, they are selling in their stores now. Looks pretty good, just
>wondering how it compares to other cabinet saws.
>Thanks
which saw??
They have 3 that I've seen... from about $300 to around $900..
The one that retails for $999 and sells for around $800 - $850 seems to get
pretty good reviews here, for a craftsman..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Assuming that you are talking about the 22124 it's currently
the flavor of the month on the WoodNet forum. You can't
swing a dead cat without hitting a discussion of the saw.
Luckily when it gets chatted up the original posters have
been nice enough to list the number in the subject line
making it easy to avoid.
From my brief and accidental readings of the posts there it
looks as though most (maybe all) the owners like the saw.
Now I might be cornfused on this next part but apparently
the saw is being built for Sears by Orian. Orian is a
company made up/founded by some exDeltoids. There's even
been a rumor that the Sears saw is identical under the table
to the Delta WantsaBeACabinetSaw.
Sears:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00922124000
Delta:
http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5851
UA100
> This may have been asked already, but has anyone got the Sears Cabinet
> saw, they are selling in their stores now. Looks pretty good, just
> wondering how it compares to other cabinet saws.
> Thanks
You mean that Craftsman #OR35505 for $649? ...of course you do, it's the cheaper
one with cast iron table and wings and that seems nice for the money. I don't own a
TS but I use three different ones. I think this one is a fine deal, but I also know that the
motor is only 1-1/2 horse power, I think that is not enough power to effectively rip
8/4 maple stock because in doing such, I had to use a 3hp cab saw to do it in adult ed.
and I had to send the blade upwards three times even with that, to make one cut, a
Chinese 12" saw that was a donation to the shop. With the Sears saw you might up
the blade 4-5 times for one cut.
Recently I did it again on an old Oliver 270D 14" blade, I believe it is five full hp and
it was one cut easy without upping the blade three times... it was like 4/4 oak on an old
1hp Delta Unisaw, maple is a hot slow bitch though bro... just some perspective for
you.
--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
Yeah... but why buy the saw with the long skirt when you can buy the
same saw with a mini skirt for $699 and have the guys at Sears load it
into your pickup?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00922114000&tab=spe#tablink
That model has the cast Iron table/wings, plus 1½ HP, and what looks
like the B-Fence. Oh yeah... it also has a warranty. Put the extra
money into a Forest WWII blade and you're home free.
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 14:42:01 -0800, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
> There's even
>> been a rumor that the Sears saw is identical under the table
>> to the Delta WantsaBeACabinetSaw.
>> Sears:
>> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00922124000
>>
>> Delta:
>> http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5851
>>
>> UA100
>
>
>Yeah... and the wantsabe is cheaper: http://www.toolking.com/delta/view.asp?ID=11750