Hi all...
I've recently tried to stain some wood mouldings around the doors and
windows in my kitchen. They're pine so I did a little research and found
that people recommended gel stains to deal with the pine which is apparently
blotchy with other types of stains.
I filled in all the nail heads and sanded down the putty and stained. It
turns out that on most of the wood everything was fine. However, on those
areas where I had sanded the putty over the nail heads the entire sanded
area came out blotchy.
Thankfully, I only did the one door frame. I have two questions...
1) Will sanding and application of another coat of the gel stain even out
those blotchy areas on the door I've started?
2) Is there some product (I saw wood conditioner in the store) that I
should apply before I try to stain the 2 other doors and 2 other windows to
make sure this doesn't happen again?
Thanks for your help.
Frank
[email protected] (remove XXX to reply directly)
It is the application of the putty that has caused the problem. Just
enough became embedded in the surrounding surface that it prevented an even
uptake of the stain. All that it takes is a very small amount that you
couldn't see even after sanding.
Sanding and another application of the stain might work. A gel stain
tends not to penetrate very far into the wood so a sanding might do it for
you.
With gel stains, prestain or "wood conditioners" are not usually needed
but they shouldn't hurt. Just make sure you use one compatible with your
stain.
In the future, tape over the area where you plan to drive the nail.
Drive the nail through the tape. Putty. Remove the tape. Let dry and
sand. The tape prevents the wood surface from excess putty.
Good Luck.
"Frank" <[email protected] (remove xxx)> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all...
>
> I've recently tried to stain some wood mouldings around the doors and
> windows in my kitchen. They're pine so I did a little research and found
> that people recommended gel stains to deal with the pine which is
apparently
> blotchy with other types of stains.
>
> I filled in all the nail heads and sanded down the putty and stained. It
> turns out that on most of the wood everything was fine. However, on those
> areas where I had sanded the putty over the nail heads the entire sanded
> area came out blotchy.
>
> Thankfully, I only did the one door frame. I have two questions...
>
> 1) Will sanding and application of another coat of the gel stain even
out
> those blotchy areas on the door I've started?
>
> 2) Is there some product (I saw wood conditioner in the store) that I
> should apply before I try to stain the 2 other doors and 2 other windows
to
> make sure this doesn't happen again?
>
> Thanks for your help.
> Frank
> [email protected] (remove XXX to reply directly)
>
>
You didn't really give enough detail, so it is hard to be sure what is going
on.
The stain affected the wood differently where you than where you didn't
sand; it got blotchy where you sanded and didn't elsewhere. Is that correct?
Is this new material or old pieces that have already been finished?
If it is new material, you probably didn't use fine enough sandpaper. Try
going down to 320 or so, without skipping any grades.
If it is old material, you sanded the old finish off, and you don't have
much of a chance getting it to match. Either sand everything, or don't sand
at all. That will require a little more care in using the filler, but can
be done.
> 2) Is there some product (I saw wood conditioner in the store) that I
> should apply before I try to stain the 2 other doors and 2 other windows
> to
> make sure this doesn't happen again?
Yes, I would recommend the wood conditioner. Some will also tell you that
mineral spirits will do the same thing but I have not tried it. Like many
soft woods pine is subject to blotching.
On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 19:13:54 -0500, "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 2) Is there some product (I saw wood conditioner in the store) that I
>> should apply before I try to stain the 2 other doors and 2 other windows
>> to
>> make sure this doesn't happen again?
>
>
>Yes, I would recommend the wood conditioner. Some will also tell you that
>mineral spirits will do the same thing but I have not tried it. Like many
>soft woods pine is subject to blotching.
>
I prefer a treatment of "Natural" stain to either wood conditioner or
spirits.
Barry
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Hi all...
>
> I've recently tried to stain some wood mouldings around the doors and
> windows in my kitchen. They're pine so I did a little research and found
> that people recommended gel stains to deal with the pine which is apparently
> blotchy with other types of stains.
>
> I filled in all the nail heads and sanded down the putty and stained. It
> turns out that on most of the wood everything was fine. However, on those
> areas where I had sanded the putty over the nail heads the entire sanded
> area came out blotchy.
>
> Thankfully, I only did the one door frame. I have two questions...
>
> 1) Will sanding and application of another coat of the gel stain even out
> those blotchy areas on the door I've started?
>
> 2) Is there some product (I saw wood conditioner in the store) that I
> should apply before I try to stain the 2 other doors and 2 other windows to
> make sure this doesn't happen again?
>
> Thanks for your help.
> Frank
> [email protected] (remove XXX to reply directly)
>
>
>
Hello Frank
Sanding and the degree sanded too (final grit) greatly affects how stain
takes. This is especially true of pigment stains, which gel stain is,
that depend on such things as pores and sanding scratches to catch and
hold the pigment.
If you are going to sand you have to sand the whole thing to the same
degree and a wood conditioner isn't going to help you if you have deep
sanding scratches in a bunch of small areas around the trim.
You may be able to accomplish the task by being very careful to only
fill the nail holes with no filler spilling out then sanding the filler
VERY lightly with a VERY fine grit sand paper.
--
MikeG
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
[email protected]
Frank wrote:
>> Hi all...
>>
>> I've recently tried to stain some wood mouldings around the doors and
>> windows in my kitchen. They're pine so I did a little research and
>> found that people recommended gel stains to deal with the pine which
>> is apparently blotchy with other types of stains.
>>
>> I filled in all the nail heads and sanded down the putty and
>> stained. It turns out that on most of the wood everything was fine.
>> However, on those areas where I had sanded the putty over the nail
>> heads the entire sanded area came out blotchy.
>>
>> Thankfully, I only did the one door frame. I have two questions...
>>
>> 1) Will sanding and application of another coat of the gel stain
>> even out those blotchy areas on the door I've started?
In my experience I've found that the blotchy area remains. I've found I
can use acrylic paint, carefully matching colors and paint "grain" on small
blotched areas.
Nice thing is that you can quickly wipe the acrylic off if you don't like
the way it looks. If you like it, varnish will seal the stuff up and give
both the paint and the stain the same gloss/matte/medium shine.
>>
>> 2) Is there some product (I saw wood conditioner in the store)
>> that I should apply before I try to stain the 2 other doors and 2
>> other windows to make sure this doesn't happen again?
This seems to be the prime recommentation for staining pine.
>>
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Frank
>> [email protected] (remove XXX to reply directly)
Josie
Thanks to all for your advice. Nice tip about the tape.
"Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It is the application of the putty that has caused the problem. Just
> enough became embedded in the surrounding surface that it prevented an
even
> uptake of the stain. All that it takes is a very small amount that you
> couldn't see even after sanding.
>
> Sanding and another application of the stain might work. A gel stain
> tends not to penetrate very far into the wood so a sanding might do it for
> you.
>
> With gel stains, prestain or "wood conditioners" are not usually
needed
> but they shouldn't hurt. Just make sure you use one compatible with your
> stain.
>
> In the future, tape over the area where you plan to drive the nail.
> Drive the nail through the tape. Putty. Remove the tape. Let dry and
> sand. The tape prevents the wood surface from excess putty.
>
> Good Luck.
>
> "Frank" <[email protected] (remove xxx)> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi all...
> >
> > I've recently tried to stain some wood mouldings around the doors and
> > windows in my kitchen. They're pine so I did a little research and found
> > that people recommended gel stains to deal with the pine which is
> apparently
> > blotchy with other types of stains.
> >
> > I filled in all the nail heads and sanded down the putty and stained. It
> > turns out that on most of the wood everything was fine. However, on
those
> > areas where I had sanded the putty over the nail heads the entire sanded
> > area came out blotchy.
> >
> > Thankfully, I only did the one door frame. I have two questions...
> >
> > 1) Will sanding and application of another coat of the gel stain even
> out
> > those blotchy areas on the door I've started?
> >
> > 2) Is there some product (I saw wood conditioner in the store) that I
> > should apply before I try to stain the 2 other doors and 2 other windows
> to
> > make sure this doesn't happen again?
> >
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Frank
> > [email protected] (remove XXX to reply directly)
> >
> >
>
>