I apologize in advance if this is off topic. I did a number of searches
this is the closest I could find to what I am looking for. (Please
recommend another ng if it is. Thanks!)
This is my problem. We have a door that goes from the house into a cold,
non-heated breezeway. We have to open and shut the door whenever we go to
the cellar to do the laundary. Unfortunately, the door does not stay shut
as the gap between the door and sides are a bit too wide. I would imagine
the door is not alligned right either.
To compansate for this problem we stick a dish towel in between the door and
the sides to give it enough friction to hold. Then, when we come back
upstairs we lock the door with a bolt and don't need the towel any longer.
Over the years the people at Home Depot and others have recommended putting
a strip of insulation type stripping between the door and side. I have had
some success, but the gap is too narrow and eventually the strip comes off
because of excess friction due the narrowness of gap. This is an old door
so the gap is probably not equal everywhere.
My question, is there any other materials I could put between the door to
increase the friction besides these weather type strippings? They are
generally about 1/8-1/4 inch I presume. And, they always come undone. If I
had any woodworking ability I would work on setting the hinges right, but to
be honest I wouldn't have a clue on how to do that.
Thanks for any feedback and sorry if I offend anyone if I posted in the
wrong ng.
Charlie
"Charlie S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:L8lGd.1213$cx2.386@trndny03...
>
> I should have mentioned it earlier. The door does have a knob and latch
(I
> presume by latch you mean the thing that goes in and out when you turn the
> door knob.) It's a very old door the door knob doesn't work. It rotates,
> but doesn't turn the 'latch'. I think I could install a latch. I've
> installed locks in doors. This couldn't be any more difficult. Although,
> don't be surprised if I am back here trying to find out how take the old
> knob off:-)
OK I am a locksmith, Iam here to help. If it a really old door (pre war)
then you probably have a mortise lock. These have a metal box set into a
pocket in the edge of the door. To remove these you need to unscrew the set
screw on the knob spindle. Once this is loose the knob unthreads from the
spindle. The spindle then will slide out.
you can then remove two screws from the edge of the door. the box can then
slide out. It might be stuck. If so use a utility knife to cut throughteh
paint film around the edge of the box, and reinsert the spindle holding both
sides of the spindle.
With the box out of the door you can bring it to your local locksmith to
replace the spring.
If the knob is the newer style there is probably a couple of screws in the
inside rose. If there is no exposed screws look on the edge of the door.
There should be a brand name. Tell me what that is.
> I also have an old wooden door that coming off it's hinges. The hinge
> attaches to the frame and side of the door. The door swings inward. The
pin
> mechanism is also inside. It has a large pin with a roundish ball at the
> top and bottom of it. The screws are coming out of the where the hinge
> meets the frame. Especially at the top and bottom of the hinges. We have
to
> lift the door to open and close/lock it. It rest on carpet so it takes
some
> effort. This is another thing we've lived with for years. What should I
> do? Just install longer screws? Or, should I prep the frame somehow so
> that it will hold the screws more securely?
This is usually an easy fix. Remove the screw and drive in a wood dowel.
then replace the screw. This should snug the hinge up. If the wood is
really chewed up I will drill a clean hole and glue in a bigger dowel. The
problem with using larger screws is that the screws have larger heads and
that prevents the hinge from closing fully. this then rips out the screws
when the door is forced closed.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
"Charlie S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:MMoGd.4376$Vx2.849@trndny01...
> Seems to be a mortise lock for it has a metal box set into a pocket in the
> edge of the door. Taking the kitchen knob off I came across something I
> can't quite figure out. Maybe you can explain.
>
> There is the flat metallic ring that has a hole in the center of the ring.
> It allows the spindle mechanism through and acts as a sort of facade or
face
> plate that rest against the door.
An escutchion plate.
(I am assuming the spindle is long square
> piece the knob screws into.)
Bingo.
This piece turns freely as it is not screwed
> into anything. There are two holes in this piece where I assume screws
hold
> it in place. I looked behind it and there is the metal box you told me
> about. But, I didn't see any holes that the screws might go into. Is
there
> a piece missing? Or, is it held in place another way. (Sorry for
> digressing from the real problem.)
>
>
The escutchion is attached with small screws to the wood. No need to mess
with the escutchion plate.
>
> Could you define what the spindle is?
The square shaft the knobs fit on to.
> Going to the locksmith is something I know I can do. Getting that box out
> will be a lot tougher.
You don't need to remove all the paint, just score around the edge of the
faceplate of the metal box. You also might also need to scrape and dig
little to get a screw driver in the slot.
Once you get the screws out and score the paint around the box, you
re-insert the spindle in the lock and slip the knob on to the spindle.
leave it a little loose. Now grab one knob in each hand and wiggle and tug.
This will pop the lock out of the hole a little, then slip the spindle out
and the lock will pull all the way out.
>
> >
> > If the knob is the newer style there is probably a couple of screws in
the
> > inside rose.
>
> I don't know what you mean by rose. There is one screw on the knob with
a
> choice of 3 holes to screw the knob into. I screwed the knob back to the
> hole closest to the door.
>
Don't worry about the rose plate, those instructions were for the newer
style, you have the mortise lock.
> I'm really don't have carpenter skills. What would be the best way to go
> about measuring, cutting and inserting the dowel?
Insert it long and just snap it off. If it snaps off a little proud of the
surface, tap it in with a hammer.
>
> Would this project be a lot easier if I took the door off the hinge first?
> Or, should I take the screws out of the hinge one at a time and fill each
> hole individually with dowel materials? The door is not very heavy.
If you don't mind about taking the door off then go ahead and take it off.
Pop out the hinge pins, remove the door then unscrew the screws holding in
the plate. I will note that the plate should sit flush with the door jam.
If it is inset it will tend to pull out the screws. It probably will be
flush.
>
> On measuring the dowel: should I insert the dowel into the screw hole and
> mark where it meets the hinge. Or, should I cut the dowel a little shorter
> than the length of the hole? Add glue? Or, only add glue if I drill a
> bigger hole?
Glue would not hurt. Cut the dowels a little long, apply glue and tap them
in. when the glue is dry, (Use the brown wood glue, it's faster than the
white stuff.) cut off the dowels flush. Easy to do with a tap from a sharp
chisel.
If you have to use the drill and bigger hole method, then you can cut the
dowel before gluing. When you drill use a brad point bit and drill through
the jam until you hit the stud. Now insert the dowel and mark the length.
Now cut the dowel and glue it in. You might want to drill a small pilot
hole for your screw.
>
> I am sure the screws in the door are ancient and probably rusty. I'll
> probably be putting in new screws. I imagine any type of flat head screw
> would be sufficient?
Take out one of the screws and bring it with you to the hardware store. Get
new ones the same size in diameter and head shape. Phillips head are a
little easier to drive.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
"George E. Cawthon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:37AGd.31198$w62.28644@bgtnsc05->
> One question, I know the spindle just spins in a lot of old
> mortise locks.
Two conditions can cause this. Usually it is a knob not set on the spindle
so it just spins or it can be a worn out hub.
Are you saying that the problem is just a
> broken spring?
Usually, The OP said his latch was not coming out of the hole.
I guess I could look as I have an old one
> laying under my workbench that I could take apart and look
> at, but asking you is easier. :-). And if something else is
> broken, the op could probably look around and find a similar
> old used lock, but you would know more about that.
Some times the best place to look is around your own house. Often there is
a closet door that uses the same lock but stands open all the time.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
Roger Shoaf wrote:
> "Charlie S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:MMoGd.4376$Vx2.849@trndny01...
>
>>Seems to be a mortise lock for it has a metal box set into a pocket in the
>>edge of the door. Taking the kitchen knob off I came across something I
>>can't quite figure out. Maybe you can explain.
>>
>>There is the flat metallic ring that has a hole in the center of the ring.
>>It allows the spindle mechanism through and acts as a sort of facade or
>
> face
>
>>plate that rest against the door.
>
>
>
> An escutchion plate.
>
>
> (I am assuming the spindle is long square
>
>>piece the knob screws into.)
>
>
> Bingo.
>
>
>
> This piece turns freely as it is not screwed
>
>>into anything. There are two holes in this piece where I assume screws
>
> hold
>
>>it in place. I looked behind it and there is the metal box you told me
>>about. But, I didn't see any holes that the screws might go into. Is
>
> there
>
>>a piece missing? Or, is it held in place another way. (Sorry for
>>digressing from the real problem.)
>>
>>
>
>
> The escutchion is attached with small screws to the wood. No need to mess
> with the escutchion plate.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>Could you define what the spindle is?
>
>
> The square shaft the knobs fit on to.
>
>
>
>>Going to the locksmith is something I know I can do. Getting that box out
>>will be a lot tougher.
>
>
> You don't need to remove all the paint, just score around the edge of the
> faceplate of the metal box. You also might also need to scrape and dig
> little to get a screw driver in the slot.
>
> Once you get the screws out and score the paint around the box, you
> re-insert the spindle in the lock and slip the knob on to the spindle.
> leave it a little loose. Now grab one knob in each hand and wiggle and tug.
> This will pop the lock out of the hole a little, then slip the spindle out
> and the lock will pull all the way out.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>>If the knob is the newer style there is probably a couple of screws in
>
> the
>
>>>inside rose.
>>
>> I don't know what you mean by rose. There is one screw on the knob with
>
> a
>
>>choice of 3 holes to screw the knob into. I screwed the knob back to the
>>hole closest to the door.
>>
>
>
> Don't worry about the rose plate, those instructions were for the newer
> style, you have the mortise lock.
>
>
>>I'm really don't have carpenter skills. What would be the best way to go
>>about measuring, cutting and inserting the dowel?
>
>
> Insert it long and just snap it off. If it snaps off a little proud of the
> surface, tap it in with a hammer.
>
>
>
>>Would this project be a lot easier if I took the door off the hinge first?
>>Or, should I take the screws out of the hinge one at a time and fill each
>>hole individually with dowel materials? The door is not very heavy.
>
>
> If you don't mind about taking the door off then go ahead and take it off.
> Pop out the hinge pins, remove the door then unscrew the screws holding in
> the plate. I will note that the plate should sit flush with the door jam.
> If it is inset it will tend to pull out the screws. It probably will be
> flush.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>On measuring the dowel: should I insert the dowel into the screw hole and
>>mark where it meets the hinge. Or, should I cut the dowel a little shorter
>>than the length of the hole? Add glue? Or, only add glue if I drill a
>>bigger hole?
>
>
>
> Glue would not hurt. Cut the dowels a little long, apply glue and tap them
> in. when the glue is dry, (Use the brown wood glue, it's faster than the
> white stuff.) cut off the dowels flush. Easy to do with a tap from a sharp
> chisel.
>
> If you have to use the drill and bigger hole method, then you can cut the
> dowel before gluing. When you drill use a brad point bit and drill through
> the jam until you hit the stud. Now insert the dowel and mark the length.
> Now cut the dowel and glue it in. You might want to drill a small pilot
> hole for your screw.
>
>
>>I am sure the screws in the door are ancient and probably rusty. I'll
>>probably be putting in new screws. I imagine any type of flat head screw
>>would be sufficient?
>
>
> Take out one of the screws and bring it with you to the hardware store. Get
> new ones the same size in diameter and head shape. Phillips head are a
> little easier to drive.
>
>
Hey Roger, this isn't meant as a criticism just a
suggestion. The first thing I thought of when I read your
first response was, what is a rose, but I know where the
screw are so I know what it is, just never heard it called
that. By cracky, Charlie had not idea, just as I suspected.
So the suggestion, is forget all the lock terminology or if
you don't then put a description in brackets after it when
talking to the layman. Every profession and every specialty
has all these weird words that improve communication between
peers, but are not understandable by others.
Good help.
One question, I know the spindle just spins in a lot of old
mortise locks. Are you saying that the problem is just a
broken spring? I guess I could look as I have an old one
laying under my workbench that I could take apart and look
at, but asking you is easier. :-). And if something else is
broken, the op could probably look around and find a similar
old used lock, but you would know more about that.
How about taking the door pin out, lay it on a hard flat surface, hit
the center of the pin with a hammer. Now you have a bowed pin. Put the
pin back in. The door should should stay closed now. If not, do the
other pin. If that don't suit ya, then straighten the pins.. You are now
back where you started
I do that in order to keep the door from closing by it's self.
Tom.
"Tom M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How about taking the door pin out, lay it on a hard flat surface, hit
> the center of the pin with a hammer. Now you have a bowed pin. Put the
> pin back in. The door should should stay closed now. If not, do the
> other pin. If that don't suit ya, then straighten the pins.. You are now
> back where you started
> I do that in order to keep the door from closing by it's self.
What a creative solution. I don't plan to use it, but I bet it would work.
"Once you get the screws out and score the paint around the box, you
re-insert the spindle in the lock and slip the knob on to the spindle.
leave it a little loose. Now grab one knob in each hand and wiggle and tug.
This will pop the lock out of the hole a little, then slip the spindle out
and the lock will pull all the way out."
I didn't need to wiggle and tug. Surprisingly (to me) the lock came out
rather easily. It doesn't look pretty. A few loose screws and a spring. I
will bring to a locksmith to let them figure it out.
Noticed there wasn't a face plate for the latch to go into. May have one
lying around or maybe the locksmith will have an extra one (probably for $5)
There is a bit of spacing between the door and frame as there was some area
cut out before. Don't know if I have to build it up first and hollow out an
area for the latch or what. I know it's difficult to comment on this
without seeing the spacing.
Thanks again for your help.
> Charlie S. wrote:
>>>>This is my problem. We have a door that goes from the house into a
>>>>cold,
>>>>non-heated breezeway. We have to open and shut the door whenever we go
>>>>to
>>>>the cellar to do the laundary. Unfortunately, the door does not stay
>>>>shut
>>>>as the gap between the door and sides are a bit too wide. I would
>>>>imagine
>>>>the door is not alligned right either.
>>>
>>>Either install a door closing mechanism, so that the door will close
>>>by itself or maybe add a magnet to the frame and a piece of iron to
>>>the door so that it's kept closed.
>>
>>
>> Closing mechanism. as like those found on a swinging screen door ? Or,
>> are you referring to something else?
>>
>> Would they sell this magnet/metal piece at Home Depot?
>>
>>>[...]
>>>
>>>
>>>>generally about 1/8-1/4 inch I presume. And, they always come undone.
>>>>If I
>>>>had any woodworking ability I would work on setting the hinges right,
>>>>but to
>>>>be honest I wouldn't have a clue on how to do that.
>>>
>>>Without you telling what kind of hinges the door has it's imposible to
>>>help you there...
>>
>>
>> The door has two hinges with layers of paint caked over them. There is a
>> large pin with a ball shaped top holding the door in place. The door
>> swings inward toward the kitchen. One flat part of the hinge lies flat
>> against the frame. While the other part is on the side of the door. The
>> the pin and casing is on the kitchen side. Removing the screws may prove
>> to be a chore. But, the pin seems freely movable. As though someone had
>> moved it recently.
>>
>>>--
>>>Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
>>>mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
>>>Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
>>>CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
>>
>>
>>
>
> Forget the hinges, that has nothing to do with holding the door closed. I
> don't really understand. Doesn't the door have a knob and a latch? If it
> has a latch,do you mean the door frame is so far away from the door edge
> that the latch won't catch. If it has no latch just install one. All
> kinds including regular door ones (difficult if you don't know anything
> about wood working or the kinds that go on gates (simple). If you don't
> want a latch, then why don't you just install a spring from the frame to
> opening side of door, just like old fashioned screen doors? A screen door
> spring would take about 5 minutes to install.
I should have mentioned it earlier. The door does have a knob and latch (I
presume by latch you mean the thing that goes in and out when you turn the
door knob.) It's a very old door the door knob doesn't work. It rotates,
but doesn't turn the 'latch'. I think I could install a latch. I've
installed locks in doors. This couldn't be any more difficult. Although,
don't be surprised if I am back here trying to find out how take the old
knob off:-)
The spring idea seems rather simple. And, that would do the trick too.
To be honest all the ideas suggested are very good. I am going to copy and
post them to a Word document and make my decision. The good news is I am
confident all of these ideas will work. I thank all of you for your help.
No more towels in the door. What a relief!!!
Installing new door knob mechanism may be a good place to start. It would
cut down on the drafts too. I am a bit worried that this being an old door,
it might look funny with a new door handle. It's an old door with a large
square window on top with three panel-like 7" x 22" cut outs beneath. It's
not the most attractive door, but it fits with the decor of the house.
Just went into the kitchen to look at the door again. It looks better than
I thought. It just needs a little paint and for me to remove and replace
some of the old tattered insulation strips I put up in the past. Looking at
some of the detailing around these insets I realize it would cost big bucks
to have one of these doors custom made.
These house doors are keeping me busy. Last week I spent a half hour
adjusting the bolt receptor so it would align perfectly with the lock bolt.
I also have an old wooden door that coming off it's hinges. The hinge
attaches to the frame and side of the door. The door swings inward. The pin
mechanism is also inside. It has a large pin with a roundish ball at the
top and bottom of it. The screws are coming out of the where the hinge
meets the frame. Especially at the top and bottom of the hinges. We have to
lift the door to open and close/lock it. It rest on carpet so it takes some
effort. This is another thing we've lived with for years. What should I
do? Just install longer screws? Or, should I prep the frame somehow so
that it will hold the screws more securely?
>> I should have mentioned it earlier. The door does have a knob and latch
> (I
>> presume by latch you mean the thing that goes in and out when you turn
>> the
>> door knob.) It's a very old door the door knob doesn't work. It rotates,
>> but doesn't turn the 'latch'. I think I could install a latch. I've
>> installed locks in doors. This couldn't be any more difficult.
>> Although,
>> don't be surprised if I am back here trying to find out how take the old
>> knob off:-)
>
> OK I am a locksmith, Iam here to help. If it a really old door (pre war)
> then you probably have a mortise lock. These have a metal box set into a
> pocket in the edge of the door.
Seems to be a mortise lock for it has a metal box set into a pocket in the
edge of the door. Taking the kitchen knob off I came across something I
can't quite figure out. Maybe you can explain.
There is the flat metallic ring that has a hole in the center of the ring.
It allows the spindle mechanism through and acts as a sort of facade or face
plate that rest against the door. (I am assuming the spindle is long square
piece the knob screws into.) This piece turns freely as it is not screwed
into anything. There are two holes in this piece where I assume screws hold
it in place. I looked behind it and there is the metal box you told me
about. But, I didn't see any holes that the screws might go into. Is there
a piece missing? Or, is it held in place another way. (Sorry for
digressing from the real problem.)
To remove these you need to unscrew the set
> screw on the knob spindle. Once this is loose the knob unthreads from the
> spindle. The spindle then will slide out.
> you can then remove two screws from the edge of the door. the box can
> then
> slide out. It might be stuck. If so use a utility knife to cut
> throughteh
> paint film around the edge of the box, and reinsert the spindle holding
> both
> sides of the spindle.
Could you define what the spindle is?
This will take some work. This door may have been painted a dozen times or
more over the course of its lifetime.
>
> With the box out of the door you can bring it to your local locksmith to
> replace the spring.
Going to the locksmith is something I know I can do. Getting that box out
will be a lot tougher.
>
> If the knob is the newer style there is probably a couple of screws in the
> inside rose.
I don't know what you mean by rose. There is one screw on the knob with a
choice of 3 holes to screw the knob into. I screwed the knob back to the
hole closest to the door.
If there is no exposed screws look on the edge of the door.
> There should be a brand name. Tell me what that is.
There is a lot of paint on the door. Scraping it off would be a project in
itself. Thus, I don't think I will be able to tell you the name of the
lock. Sorry. If the weather were warmer I wouldn't mind. But, this
breezeway is very cold.
On the edge of the door there are two screws holding the box mechanism and
lock in place. One on the bottom and one on top. The whole plate is about
6 inches long. I am pretty sure it's one piece. Although with all the
paint and the darkness I am not 100% sure.
>
>
>> I also have an old wooden door that coming off it's hinges. The hinge
>> attaches to the frame and side of the door. The door swings inward. The
> pin
>> mechanism is also inside. It has a large pin with a roundish ball at the
>> top and bottom of it. The screws are coming out of the where the hinge
>> meets the frame. Especially at the top and bottom of the hinges. We have
> to
>> lift the door to open and close/lock it. It rest on carpet so it takes
> some
>> effort. This is another thing we've lived with for years. What should I
>> do? Just install longer screws? Or, should I prep the frame somehow so
>> that it will hold the screws more securely?
>
>
> This is usually an easy fix. Remove the screw and drive in a wood dowel.
> then replace the screw.
I'm really don't have carpenter skills. What would be the best way to go
about measuring, cutting and inserting the dowel?
Would this project be a lot easier if I took the door off the hinge first?
Or, should I take the screws out of the hinge one at a time and fill each
hole individually with dowel materials? The door is not very heavy.
On measuring the dowel: should I insert the dowel into the screw hole and
mark where it meets the hinge. Or, should I cut the dowel a little shorter
than the length of the hole? Add glue? Or, only add glue if I drill a
bigger hole?
I am sure the screws in the door are ancient and probably rusty. I'll
probably be putting in new screws. I imagine any type of flat head screw
would be sufficient? As you suggested I'll be sure not to use screws that
are too long.
This should snug the hinge up. If the wood is
> really chewed up I will drill a clean hole and glue in a bigger dowel.
> The
> problem with using larger screws is that the screws have larger heads and
> that prevents the hinge from closing fully. this then rips out the screws
> when the door is forced closed.
Got it.
Thanks!
Charlie
>
> --
>
> Roger Shoaf
>
> About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube,
> then
> they come up with this striped stuff.
>
>
Charlie S. wrote:
>>>This is my problem. We have a door that goes from the house into a cold,
>>>non-heated breezeway. We have to open and shut the door whenever we go
>>>to
>>>the cellar to do the laundary. Unfortunately, the door does not stay
>>>shut
>>>as the gap between the door and sides are a bit too wide. I would imagine
>>>the door is not alligned right either.
>>
>>Either install a door closing mechanism, so that the door will close
>>by itself or maybe add a magnet to the frame and a piece of iron to
>>the door so that it's kept closed.
>
>
> Closing mechanism. as like those found on a swinging screen door ? Or, are
> you referring to something else?
>
> Would they sell this magnet/metal piece at Home Depot?
>
>>[...]
>>
>>
>>>generally about 1/8-1/4 inch I presume. And, they always come undone.
>>>If I
>>>had any woodworking ability I would work on setting the hinges right, but
>>>to
>>>be honest I wouldn't have a clue on how to do that.
>>
>>Without you telling what kind of hinges the door has it's imposible to
>>help you there...
>
>
> The door has two hinges with layers of paint caked over them. There is a
> large pin with a ball shaped top holding the door in place. The door swings
> inward toward the kitchen. One flat part of the hinge lies flat against the
> frame. While the other part is on the side of the door. The the pin and
> casing is on the kitchen side. Removing the screws may prove to be a chore.
> But, the pin seems freely movable. As though someone had moved it recently.
>
>>--
>>Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
>>mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
>>Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
>>CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
>
>
>
Forget the hinges, that has nothing to do with holding the
door closed. I don't really understand. Doesn't the door
have a knob and a latch? If it has a latch,do you mean the
door frame is so far away from the door edge that the latch
won't catch. If it has no latch just install one. All
kinds including regular door ones (difficult if you don't
know anything about wood working or the kinds that go on
gates (simple). If you don't want a latch, then why don't
you just install a spring from the frame to opening side of
door, just like old fashioned screen doors? A screen door
spring would take about 5 minutes to install.
Roger Shoaf wrote:
> "George E. Cawthon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:37AGd.31198$w62.28644@bgtnsc05->
>
>>One question, I know the spindle just spins in a lot of old
>>mortise locks.
>
>
>
> Two conditions can cause this. Usually it is a knob not set on the spindle
> so it just spins or it can be a worn out hub.
>
>
>
> Are you saying that the problem is just a
>
>>broken spring?
>
>
> Usually, The OP said his latch was not coming out of the hole.
>
> I guess I could look as I have an old one
>
>>laying under my workbench that I could take apart and look
>>at, but asking you is easier. :-). And if something else is
>>broken, the op could probably look around and find a similar
>>old used lock, but you would know more about that.
>
>
> Some times the best place to look is around your own house. Often there is
> a closet door that uses the same lock but stands open all the time.
>
Oops. missed where he said the latch wasn't coming out.
Not around my house, I haven't lived in a house with that
type of lock for over 40 years. We call them antiques!
On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 18:25:27 GMT, "Charlie S."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>> This is my problem. We have a door that goes from the house into a cold,
>>> non-heated breezeway. We have to open and shut the door whenever we go
>>> to
>>> the cellar to do the laundary. Unfortunately, the door does not stay
>>> shut
>>> as the gap between the door and sides are a bit too wide. I would imagine
>>> the door is not alligned right either.
>>
>> Either install a door closing mechanism, so that the door will close
>> by itself or maybe add a magnet to the frame and a piece of iron to
>> the door so that it's kept closed.
>
>Closing mechanism. as like those found on a swinging screen door ? Or, are
>you referring to something else?
there are about a billion ways to do it.
one way you might look into is a self closing hinge as used on fire
doors. it's a pretty inexpensive piece of hardware and readily
available.
another is a mechanism made by ryobi called "doorman"
another might involve pulleys and rope with a weight.
>
>Would they sell this magnet/metal piece at Home Depot?
you'll probably do better at a hardware store. magnetic catches are
usually used for cabinet doors- you might have a hard time finding one
strong enough to hold an entry door.
>>
>> [...]
>>
>>> generally about 1/8-1/4 inch I presume. And, they always come undone.
>>> If I
>>> had any woodworking ability I would work on setting the hinges right, but
>>> to
>>> be honest I wouldn't have a clue on how to do that.
>>
>> Without you telling what kind of hinges the door has it's imposible to
>> help you there...
>
>The door has two hinges with layers of paint caked over them. There is a
>large pin with a ball shaped top holding the door in place. The door swings
>inward toward the kitchen. One flat part of the hinge lies flat against the
>frame. While the other part is on the side of the door. The the pin and
>casing is on the kitchen side. Removing the screws may prove to be a chore.
>But, the pin seems freely movable. As though someone had moved it recently.
yep. every time the door gets opened/ closed....
Sat, Jan 15, 2005, 1:23pm (EST-2) [email protected] says:
<snip> another might involve pulleys and rope with a weight. <snip>
Don't even need pulleys. Couple of screw eyes will work, if you
want to be elegent. Couple of nails, if not.
JOAT
Success is getting what you want.
Happiness is wanting what you get.
- =A0Dale Carnegie
"Tom O'Connor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You might want to look at the alt.home.repair newsgroup.
Thanks! After I get these door questions straightened out I'll got there for
house repairs. I have a broken chair taht needs repairing. I may be back
soon. Too much to take on now.
>
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 07:33:00 GMT, "Charlie S."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Could you define what the spindle is?
the spindle is long square piece the knob screws into.
>> With the box out of the door you can bring it to your local locksmith to
>> replace the spring.
>
>Going to the locksmith is something I know I can do. Getting that box out
>will be a lot tougher.
it's probably held in with 2 screws.
>>> I also have an old wooden door that coming off it's hinges. The hinge
>>> attaches to the frame and side of the door. The door swings inward. The
>> pin
>>> mechanism is also inside. It has a large pin with a roundish ball at the
>>> top and bottom of it. The screws are coming out of the where the hinge
>>> meets the frame. Especially at the top and bottom of the hinges. We have
>> to
>>> lift the door to open and close/lock it. What should I
>>> do? Just install longer screws?
if the wall it's in is wood frame- made with studs inside- longer
screws is the answer. note that that is *longer* screws, not *fatter*
screws. you want at least one of those screws to reach the stud behind
the door frame, tightened up enough to pull the door up straight.
>> The
>> problem with using larger screws is that the screws have larger heads and
>> that prevents the hinge from closing fully. this then rips out the screws
>> when the door is forced closed.
again- longer screws the same diameter are what you want.
>> This is my problem. We have a door that goes from the house into a cold,
>> non-heated breezeway. We have to open and shut the door whenever we go
>> to
>> the cellar to do the laundary. Unfortunately, the door does not stay
>> shut
>> as the gap between the door and sides are a bit too wide. I would imagine
>> the door is not alligned right either.
>
> Either install a door closing mechanism, so that the door will close
> by itself or maybe add a magnet to the frame and a piece of iron to
> the door so that it's kept closed.
Closing mechanism. as like those found on a swinging screen door ? Or, are
you referring to something else?
Would they sell this magnet/metal piece at Home Depot?
>
> [...]
>
>> generally about 1/8-1/4 inch I presume. And, they always come undone.
>> If I
>> had any woodworking ability I would work on setting the hinges right, but
>> to
>> be honest I wouldn't have a clue on how to do that.
>
> Without you telling what kind of hinges the door has it's imposible to
> help you there...
The door has two hinges with layers of paint caked over them. There is a
large pin with a ball shaped top holding the door in place. The door swings
inward toward the kitchen. One flat part of the hinge lies flat against the
frame. While the other part is on the side of the door. The the pin and
casing is on the kitchen side. Removing the screws may prove to be a chore.
But, the pin seems freely movable. As though someone had moved it recently.
>
> --
> Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
> mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
> Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
> CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
Charlie S. asks:
>> Either install a door closing mechanism, so that the door will close
>> by itself or maybe add a magnet to the frame and a piece of iron to
>> the door so that it's kept closed.
>
>Closing mechanism. as like those found on a swinging screen door ? Or, are
>you referring to something else?
A pneumatic closer, I'd guess. They are easy to install, not super expensive,
and will solve your problem. You'll see counterparts on many commercial doors,
restrooms, etc. You'd probably need one of the ligest duty models available.
Screen door springs *might* work if your door weighs about what a screen door
does.
Charlie Self
"One of the common denominators I have found is that expectations rise above
that which is expected." George W. Bush
[email protected] (Charlie Self) writes:
> Charlie S. asks:
>
>>> Either install a door closing mechanism, so that the door will close
>>> by itself or maybe add a magnet to the frame and a piece of iron to
>>> the door so that it's kept closed.
>>
>>Closing mechanism. as like those found on a swinging screen door ? Or, are
>>you referring to something else?
>
> A pneumatic closer, I'd guess. They are easy to install, not super expensive,
I thought of someting much simpler, which works however only for doors
that open only to one side: It consits of two metal blocks, one is
screwed to the door frame and one to the door itself, and a metal rod
that sits between the two blocks. If you open the door the rod will
now push the door upwards, so the weight of the door will now try to
push it closed again. Another advantage of this is that the door may
be lifted above carpets. How is this device called?
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
"Charlie S." <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
> This is my problem. We have a door that goes from the house into a cold,
> non-heated breezeway. We have to open and shut the door whenever we go to
> the cellar to do the laundary. Unfortunately, the door does not stay shut
> as the gap between the door and sides are a bit too wide. I would imagine
> the door is not alligned right either.
Either install a door closing mechanism, so that the door will close
by itself or maybe add a magnet to the frame and a piece of iron to
the door so that it's kept closed.
[...]
> generally about 1/8-1/4 inch I presume. And, they always come undone. If I
> had any woodworking ability I would work on setting the hinges right, but to
> be honest I wouldn't have a clue on how to do that.
Without you telling what kind of hinges the door has it's imposible to
help you there...
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23