Yeah, another dumb chair rail question.
I thought I had it licked when I found a guided drum sander at Woodworker
Supply, but they emailed me today that they had shipped all but one
essential item, so I have to return it all. ARGH.
Anyhow, I have a 1" long top bearing straight bit, and a 2" long bottom
guided straight bit.
Can I run my 2.5" rail through the 1" bit (in a table of course) with a
template taped on, and then flip it over and run it through the 2" bit
guiding it by the part cut with the 1" bit?
Seems like it ought to work, but sometimes I overlook things... Thanks.
Sure it will work. That's why I sugessted it earlier.
"Tim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yeah, another dumb chair rail question.
>
> I thought I had it licked when I found a guided drum sander at Woodworker
> Supply, but they emailed me today that they had shipped all but one
> essential item, so I have to return it all. ARGH.
>
> Anyhow, I have a 1" long top bearing straight bit, and a 2" long bottom
> guided straight bit.
> Can I run my 2.5" rail through the 1" bit (in a table of course) with a
> template taped on, and then flip it over and run it through the 2" bit
> guiding it by the part cut with the 1" bit?
>
> Seems like it ought to work, but sometimes I overlook things... Thanks.
>
>
"Tim" wrote in message
> > YMMV ...
> >
> You can say that again. I cut the 8 rails this evening on a 20" saw in
> about half an hour. With a little sanding they will be good to use.
>
> I don't know if it was using a bigger saw, a smaller blade (1/4 rather
than
> 1/2), or using ash rather than oak, but it was a completely different
> experience.
>
> I don't think there is any need to route them at all.
That's good news. The difference in quality between the tools and blades?
I keep my bandsaw tuned up for this type of work and what you describe above
is my usual experience, regardless of material.
Glad to hear that you got the problem solved.
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Last update: 10/01/06
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Tim" wrote in message
>
>
>> Anyhow, I have a 1" long top bearing straight bit, and a 2" long bottom
>> guided straight bit.
>> Can I run my 2.5" rail through the 1" bit (in a table of course) with a
>> template taped on, and then flip it over and run it through the 2" bit
>> guiding it by the part cut with the 1" bit?
>>
>> Seems like it ought to work, but sometimes I overlook things... Thanks.
>
> Yes you can ... it works, but, not as well IME, as doing it in one pass.
>
> Which is why I originally designed the taller chair rails around a 2"
> pattern bit.
>
> IME, the curved work piece has a tendency to tip, particularly if there is
> wild grain, and you run a much greater risk of gouging with this method,
> and
> I found that I needed more than a few "extra's" to insure that I got a
> usable number of parts, and that can get expensive quickly.
>
> YMMV ...
>
> That said, if you can magic a jig to insure stability, it will certainly
> work.
>
> I'd sure try it on some cheap stock first, though ... and try to match the
> grain and hardness of the final stock because I've been fooled when
> something worked on a softer wood, but not as anticipated on a hardwood
> like
> white oak.
>
Yes, I am concerned about tipping also. I am thinking of screwing it to a
piece of plywood, but even on the bottom the screw holes will be scars.
The "book" calls for a 3.5" top rail and a 2.5" bottom rail. Reducing the
top to 2.5" is one thing; reducing them both to 1.8". I donno. The photo
you posted looked fine, but still.
> YMMV ...
>
You can say that again. I cut the 8 rails this evening on a 20" saw in
about half an hour. With a little sanding they will be good to use.
I don't know if it was using a bigger saw, a smaller blade (1/4 rather than
1/2), or using ash rather than oak, but it was a completely different
experience.
I don't think there is any need to route them at all.
"Tim" wrote in message
> Anyhow, I have a 1" long top bearing straight bit, and a 2" long bottom
> guided straight bit.
> Can I run my 2.5" rail through the 1" bit (in a table of course) with a
> template taped on, and then flip it over and run it through the 2" bit
> guiding it by the part cut with the 1" bit?
>
> Seems like it ought to work, but sometimes I overlook things... Thanks.
Yes you can ... it works, but, not as well IME, as doing it in one pass.
Which is why I originally designed the taller chair rails around a 2"
pattern bit.
IME, the curved work piece has a tendency to tip, particularly if there is
wild grain, and you run a much greater risk of gouging with this method, and
I found that I needed more than a few "extra's" to insure that I got a
usable number of parts, and that can get expensive quickly.
YMMV ...
That said, if you can magic a jig to insure stability, it will certainly
work.
I'd sure try it on some cheap stock first, though ... and try to match the
grain and hardness of the final stock because I've been fooled when
something worked on a softer wood, but not as anticipated on a hardwood like
white oak.
--
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Last update: 10/01/06