I will be building a garage for my daughter this summer. The siding
that is on the house is 10 X 3/4 cedar clapboard, and of course we
would like to match the look. That was the 60's, this is now and the
price of that stock in my area is $4.40/lin ft., making the cost of the
siding about $1000 for one wall of the garage. My daughter located a
supply of pine clapboard that would cost $2.50/lin ft. Can someone
tell me if there is a real downside to using the pine? Will it need to
be treated differently? There will be a good roof overhang plus
gutters to keep water away.
Thanks to all for the replies. The house is painted, so stain and
matching are not a problem. If we go with the pine I will be sure the
backs and ends of the boards are well primed. I know nothing about
Hardiplank - I will do some research. John, did you use the Hardiplank
on your whole house? We will also be doing a major kitchen/bath
addition in the next year or so and you have given me food for thought
on replacing the entire shell.
"remuddler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I will be building a garage for my daughter this summer. The siding
> that is on the house is 10 X 3/4 cedar clapboard, and of course we
> would like to match the look. That was the 60's, this is now and the
> price of that stock in my area is $4.40/lin ft., making the cost of the
> siding about $1000 for one wall of the garage. My daughter located a
> supply of pine clapboard that would cost $2.50/lin ft. Can someone
> tell me if there is a real downside to using the pine? Will it need to
> be treated differently? There will be a good roof overhang plus
> gutters to keep water away.
>
Prime it, paint it and nail it up. Keep the paint maintained and you'll be
fine. Take a look around at all of the old buildings - very old buildings,
with pine clapboard.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I recently built a house and was going to go with wood siding but did not
want the maintenance. I went with this product and although it has only been
a year I am 100% happy so far.
http://www.lpcorp.com/lpsidingproducts/lpscanexel/lpscanexel.aspx
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "remuddler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Thanks to all for the replies. The house is painted, so stain and
>> matching are not a problem. If we go with the pine I will be sure the
>> backs and ends of the boards are well primed. I know nothing about
>> Hardiplank - I will do some research. John, did you use the Hardiplank
>> on your whole house? We will also be doing a major kitchen/bath
>> addition in the next year or so and you have given me food for thought
>> on replacing the entire shell.
>
> I did replace the entire house with Hardiplank. Compared to the prospect
> of scraping the whole house, repairing damaged areas and rebuilding the
> windows, ripping the siding off, installing new windows and residing was a
> pleasure! ;~)
>
> John
>
>
>
"remuddler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks to all for the replies. The house is painted, so stain and
> matching are not a problem. If we go with the pine I will be sure the
> backs and ends of the boards are well primed. I know nothing about
> Hardiplank - I will do some research. John, did you use the Hardiplank
> on your whole house? We will also be doing a major kitchen/bath
> addition in the next year or so and you have given me food for thought
> on replacing the entire shell.
I did replace the entire house with Hardiplank. Compared to the prospect of
scraping the whole house, repairing damaged areas and rebuilding the
windows, ripping the siding off, installing new windows and residing was a
pleasure! ;~)
John
Is it painted or stained?
If paint, I would use the pine, but I would be sure to seal all of the knots
with 2 coats of shellac. Cedar is more naturally weather resistant, but that
should be moot if the stock is painted.
Always back prime and end prime. I have (painted) pine clapboards on my
addition. After 4 years, there are no signs whatsoever of the paint failing
or the knots beeding through.
If stain, YMMV. Is it clear stock? Knots+stain+different species is is
unlikely to match.
-Steve
"remuddler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I will be building a garage for my daughter this summer. The siding
> that is on the house is 10 X 3/4 cedar clapboard, and of course we
> would like to match the look. That was the 60's, this is now and the
> price of that stock in my area is $4.40/lin ft., making the cost of the
> siding about $1000 for one wall of the garage. My daughter located a
> supply of pine clapboard that would cost $2.50/lin ft. Can someone
> tell me if there is a real downside to using the pine? Will it need to
> be treated differently? There will be a good roof overhang plus
> gutters to keep water away.
>
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
"remuddler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I will be building a garage for my daughter this summer. The siding
> that is on the house is 10 X 3/4 cedar clapboard, and of course we
> would like to match the look. That was the 60's, this is now and the
> price of that stock in my area is $4.40/lin ft., making the cost of the
> siding about $1000 for one wall of the garage. My daughter located a
> supply of pine clapboard that would cost $2.50/lin ft. Can someone
> tell me if there is a real downside to using the pine? Will it need to
> be treated differently? There will be a good roof overhang plus
> gutters to keep water away.
>
I wouldn't rule out Hardiplank fiber cement siding. I faced a similar cost
problem... I had repair a badly done addition and match it to the rest of
the house. I ended up ripping the 3/4X10 clear, vertical grain, cedar off
the whole house and redoing the entire thing--soffits, gutters, corner
boards, window trim, rake boards, paint, fasteners, etc.--for a little more
than half what the cedar siding alone would have cost for the addition.
While I was at it I put in new windows (not replacement windows) and doors.
Solved all kinds of problems and cut the drafts (heat loss and gain)
significantly. Doing the doors and windows got me to about 125-130% of the
cost of the cedar for the addition.
In your situation, if the garage is not right next to the house, and the
exposure, trim and paint are matched to the house, few would notice the
difference in the siding. Your daughter would be way ahead in terms of money
and maintenance.
John