foggytown wrote:
> I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
> the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
> table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
> bit. Right?
>
> FoggyTown
Keep in mind that the rotation of the router bit will try to push the
material sideways. Either way is a good way to lose a finger though. I
prefer the tablesaw. The resistance is directly against you instead of
sideways. AND, your router may not be comfortable making the cuts in
one pass. You may have to take a little at a time to complete your
cuts. OH! and tear-out! I'd like to see a comparison between box joints
that were cut on a TS vs Router table.
Tom in KY, A tablesaw would just be so much easier, wouldn't it?
You may want to make or buy a jig like they use on ROUTER WORKSHOP. Makes
life a whole lot simpler.
"foggytown" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
> the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
> table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
> bit. Right?
>
> FoggyTown
>
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--
Middle-schoolers used it with great success.
If you build your own, remember that the height of the straddle fence should
be no more than the thickness of the thinnest wood you'll work on it. Other
than that, piece of cake, and "micro" adjustments are made with the tap of a
hammer. Fence toward bit makes looser, fence away makes tighter.
"Tom Woodman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You may want to make or buy a jig like they use on ROUTER WORKSHOP.
> Makes life a whole lot simpler.
>
> "foggytown" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
>> the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
>> table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
>> bit. Right?
>>
>> FoggyTown
>>
>
>
Spiral bits make a big difference. They significantly reduce tear-out, and I
highly recommend that you use one. Another thing that you should do is to
make a fresh backer board, so your first cut puts a hole in it exactly the
size of your router bit cut. With this backer board in place, all box joint
cuts with that router bit set at that height will have minimum tear-out. If
you change any settings, make a new backer board. The backer board holds the
wood fibers in place around the edge of the cut instead of letting the
router bit tear them out.
--
Charley
"Brian Hoyt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You may find that the spiral upcut bits help (but not eliminate) tearout.
> They certainly perform better than 1 or 2 flute straight bits.
>
> Something like
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42891&cat=1,46168,46171&ap=1
>
>
> cheers ...
>
> brian
>
> foggytown wrote:
> > I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
> > the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
> > table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
> > bit. Right?
> >
> > FoggyTown
> >
foggytown wrote:
> I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why,
> with the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my
> router table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a
> straight bit. Right?
>
> FoggyTown
Right
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Squarei4dtoolguy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Keep in mind that the rotation of the router bit will try to push the
> material sideways. Either way is a good way to lose a finger though.
There's a trick to it. Once learned, things go much better. Don't stick your
finger in the bit/blade.
>I
> prefer the tablesaw. The resistance is directly against you instead of
> sideways. AND, your router may not be comfortable making the cuts in
> one pass. You may have to take a little at a time to complete your
> cuts. OH! and tear-out! I'd like to see a comparison between box joints
> that were cut on a TS vs Router table.
No difference.
>
> Tom in KY, A tablesaw would just be so much easier, wouldn't it?
>
Yep. Works great.
"foggytown" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
> the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
> table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
> bit. Right?
>
> FoggyTown
>
"foggytown" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
> the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
> table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
> bit. Right?
>
> FoggyTown
>
I built a micro=adjustable jig out of Shopsmith, and it works great!
Although, if you are using plywood, it will tear out = hardwood is not
problem..joints are tight, fitting, and look like they were handcut...
You may find that the spiral upcut bits help (but not eliminate) tearout.
They certainly perform better than 1 or 2 flute straight bits.
Something like
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42891&cat=1,46168,46171&ap=1
cheers ...
brian
foggytown wrote:
> I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with
> the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router
> table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight
> bit. Right?
>
> FoggyTown
>