Here's my previous posts on this subject.
I think I may have scored a nanner.
>
> For future reference, it's a "neener".
Well the neener turned out to really be a nanner. When we started to
assemble it we discovered that it was missing the rip fence and rails.
That's what I get for dealing with and appliance salesman and not a
tool salesman. It looks like someone robbed the fence for another saw
and didn't mark it as missing parts. I'm going to write a letter to
Sears customer relations and see what happens sometimes the squeaky
wheel gets greased in the mean time I'm looking for a fence for around
$250. I've looked at the Delta T30 and the Mule Accusquare. I'm kinda
leaning toward the Mule. Will let you know what happens. Jim
The local store manager called me yesterday after customer relations
called him. He happened to be out of town at the time of the sale (he
was familiar with the saw) he said that it had be in the warehouse sale
three times and usually was marked has having no fence so it was as is.
Someone had dropped the ball. Like I said I was dealing with an
appliance salesman. Long story short they won't pay for a fence. I can
either buy a Delta T30 at Lowe's for $150 or an Accusquare 1025 for
$169 free shipping or the Accusquare 1040 for $179 free shipping. Just
have to decide whether I want 25" or 40" right cut. The shop is a
little limited on space. I'm leaning toward the Accusquare because of
the rear clamp. The Delta seems like it wants to ride up when I was
checking it out in the store for use with feather boards. I can also
get Accusquare's miter gage fence attachment for $39, free shipping,
and still come out ahead on the saw. We only paid $338 for it and it's
replacing a 35 year old Craftsman. Jim
The follow up. I ended up buying the Accusquare which arrived Monday. I
installed it yesterday was pretty easy. Just two minor problems. The
front and back holes in the saw didn't match so I have to enlarge one
hole in the back rail. I also have to get a couple of metric bolts to
finish the installation. Accusquare didn't have the Model 1040 fence
(40"right cut) in stock and offered to ship me the Model 1050 (50"
right cut) at no extra cost. Since shop space is limited I waited for
the 1040. They're also sending me one more end cap for the fence. It's
a great fence. I'm going to order the left hand tape for the saw from
Sears since they're the cheapest. I set the fence up for 26" right cut
and 22 3/4" left cut.
A question what does one use on the table saw top to slicken it up? I
know you don't use wax. Norm mentioned on one of his programs once but
I've forgotten what it was. Thanks, Jim
--
Robatoy wrote:
> On Nov 5, 12:16 pm, "James" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Here's my previous posts on this subject.
> >
> > I think I may have scored a nanner.
> >
> >
> >
> > > For future reference, it's a "neener".
> >
> > Well the neener turned out to really be a nanner. When we started to
> > assemble it we discovered that it was missing the rip fence and
> > rails. That's what I get for dealing with and appliance salesman
> > and not a tool salesman. It looks like someone robbed the fence for
> > another saw and didn't mark it as missing parts. I'm going to write
> > a letter to Sears customer relations and see what happens sometimes
> > the squeaky wheel gets greased in the mean time I'm looking for a
> > fence for around $250. I've looked at the Delta T30 and the Mule
> > Accusquare. I'm kinda leaning toward the Mule. Will let you know
> > what happens. Jim
> >
> > The local store manager called me yesterday after customer relations
> > called him. He happened to be out of town at the time of the sale
> > (he was familiar with the saw) he said that it had be in the
> > warehouse sale three times and usually was marked has having no
> > fence so it was as is. Someone had dropped the ball. Like I said I
> > was dealing with an appliance salesman. Long story short they won't
> > pay for a fence. I can either buy a Delta T30 at Lowe's for $150 or
> > an Accusquare 1025 for $169 free shipping or the Accusquare 1040
> > for $179 free shipping. Just have to decide whether I want 25" or
> > 40" right cut. The shop is a little limited on space. I'm leaning
> > toward the Accusquare because of the rear clamp. The Delta seems
> > like it wants to ride up when I was checking it out in the store
> > for use with feather boards. I can also get Accusquare's miter gage
> > fence attachment for $39, free shipping, and still come out ahead
> > on the saw. We only paid $338 for it and it's replacing a 35 year
> > old Craftsman. Jim
> >
> > The follow up. I ended up buying the Accusquare which arrived
> > Monday. I installed it yesterday was pretty easy. Just two minor
> > problems. The front and back holes in the saw didn't match so I
> > have to enlarge one hole in the back rail. I also have to get a
> > couple of metric bolts to finish the installation. Accusquare
> > didn't have the Model 1040 fence (40"right cut) in stock and
> > offered to ship me the Model 1050 (50" right cut) at no extra cost.
> > Since shop space is limited I waited for the 1040. They're also
> > sending me one more end cap for the fence. It's a great fence. I'm
> > going to order the left hand tape for the saw from Sears since
> > they're the cheapest. I set the fence up for 26" right cut and 22
> > 3/4" left cut.
> >
> > A question what does one use on the table saw top to slicken it up?
> > I know you don't use wax. Norm mentioned on one of his programs
> > once but I've forgotten what it was. Thanks, Jim
> >
> > --
>
> TreWax. Paste. Silicon free. Works like a charm for cheap.
What about Johnsons Paste Wax? I looked on the can but it don't list
ingredients. Jim
--
On Nov 5, 12:16=A0pm, "James" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Here's my previous posts on this subject.
>
> I think I may have scored a nanner.
>
>
>
> > For future reference, it's a "neener".
>
> Well the neener turned out to really be a nanner. When we started to
> assemble it we discovered that it was missing the rip fence and rails.
> That's what I get for dealing with and appliance salesman and not a
> tool salesman. It looks like someone robbed the fence for another saw
> and didn't mark it as missing parts. I'm going to write a letter to
> Sears customer relations and see what happens sometimes the squeaky
> wheel gets greased in the mean time I'm looking for a fence for around
> $250. I've looked at the Delta T30 and the Mule Accusquare. I'm kinda
> leaning toward the Mule. Will let you know what happens. Jim
>
> The local store manager called me yesterday after customer relations
> called him. He happened to be out of town at the time of the sale (he
> was familiar with the saw) he said that it had be in the warehouse sale
> three times and usually was marked has having no fence so it was as is.
> Someone had dropped the ball. Like I said I was dealing with an
> appliance salesman. Long story short they won't pay for a fence. I can
> either buy a Delta T30 at Lowe's for $150 or an Accusquare 1025 for
> $169 free shipping or the Accusquare 1040 for $179 free shipping. Just
> have to decide whether I want 25" or 40" right cut. The shop is a
> little limited on space. I'm leaning toward the Accusquare because of
> the rear clamp. The Delta seems like it wants to ride up when I was
> checking it out in the store for use with feather boards. I can also
> get Accusquare's miter gage fence attachment for $39, free shipping,
> and still come out ahead on the saw. We only paid $338 for it and it's
> replacing a 35 year old Craftsman. Jim
>
> The follow up. I ended up buying the Accusquare which arrived Monday. I
> installed it yesterday was pretty easy. Just two minor problems. The
> front and back holes in the saw didn't match so I have to enlarge one
> hole in the back rail. I also have to get a couple of metric bolts to
> finish the installation. Accusquare didn't have the Model 1040 fence
> (40"right cut) in stock and offered to ship me the Model 1050 (50"
> right cut) at no extra cost. Since shop space is limited I waited for
> the 1040. They're also sending me one more end cap for the fence. It's
> a great fence. I'm going to order the left hand tape for the saw from
> Sears since they're the cheapest. I set the fence up for 26" right cut
> and 22 3/4" left cut.
>
> A question what does one use on the table saw top to slicken it up? I
> know you don't use wax. Norm mentioned on one of his programs once but
> I've forgotten what it was. Thanks, Jim
>
> --
TreWax. Paste. Silicon free. Works like a charm for cheap.
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote
One old trick is to scub it down with a synthetic pad or other method
to get all rust gone and sort of ploished, then polish it with a hand
full of waxed paper.
********************************
Reminds me of grade school and wax paper. We used to take the wax paper used
to wrap our sandwiches and put them under out butts and go down the big
metal slide. After a number of us did this, that slide got very slick.
Then some unsuspecting kid would get on there and shoot out from the end at
a high rate of speed. Which usually meant that they would tumble for a
distance. They would cry and holler, this would get to the pricipal and we
would all get into trouble.
Ahhhhh....., memories.
James wrote:
> Here's my previous posts on this subject.
>
> I think I may have scored a nanner.
>>
>> For future reference, it's a "neener".
>
> Well the neener turned out to really be a nanner. When we started to
> assemble it we discovered that it was missing the rip fence and rails.
> That's what I get for dealing with and appliance salesman and not a
> tool salesman. It looks like someone robbed the fence for another saw
> and didn't mark it as missing parts. I'm going to write a letter to
> Sears customer relations and see what happens sometimes the squeaky
> wheel gets greased in the mean time I'm looking for a fence for around
> $250. I've looked at the Delta T30 and the Mule Accusquare. I'm kinda
> leaning toward the Mule. Will let you know what happens. Jim
>
> The local store manager called me yesterday after customer relations
> called him. He happened to be out of town at the time of the sale (he
> was familiar with the saw) he said that it had be in the warehouse sale
> three times and usually was marked has having no fence so it was as is.
> Someone had dropped the ball. Like I said I was dealing with an
> appliance salesman. Long story short they won't pay for a fence. I can
> either buy a Delta T30 at Lowe's for $150 or an Accusquare 1025 for
> $169 free shipping or the Accusquare 1040 for $179 free shipping. Just
> have to decide whether I want 25" or 40" right cut. The shop is a
> little limited on space. I'm leaning toward the Accusquare because of
> the rear clamp. The Delta seems like it wants to ride up when I was
> checking it out in the store for use with feather boards. I can also
> get Accusquare's miter gage fence attachment for $39, free shipping,
> and still come out ahead on the saw. We only paid $338 for it and it's
> replacing a 35 year old Craftsman. Jim
>
> The follow up. I ended up buying the Accusquare which arrived Monday. I
> installed it yesterday was pretty easy. Just two minor problems. The
> front and back holes in the saw didn't match so I have to enlarge one
> hole in the back rail. I also have to get a couple of metric bolts to
> finish the installation. Accusquare didn't have the Model 1040 fence
> (40"right cut) in stock and offered to ship me the Model 1050 (50"
> right cut) at no extra cost. Since shop space is limited I waited for
> the 1040. They're also sending me one more end cap for the fence. It's
> a great fence. I'm going to order the left hand tape for the saw from
> Sears since they're the cheapest. I set the fence up for 26" right cut
> and 22 3/4" left cut.
>
> A question what does one use on the table saw top to slicken it up? I
> know you don't use wax. Norm mentioned on one of his programs once but
> I've forgotten what it was. Thanks, Jim
>
I use paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits. It stays in a
pressure spray can (From Harbor Fright). I spritz a little on and wipe
down with paper towels. If there is a stain I use a green abrasive pad
before wiping. This is cheap and works for me. There are more
expensive ways to go and I'm sure you will hear about them from those
that use them.
Wax is fine but stay away from silicone on woodworking machinery.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
A little inaccuracy saves tons of
explanation.
You can use Top-Cote which is made for the purpose of rust prevention
and friction reduction. It is better at rust protection than it is at
friction reduction.
You can also absolutley wax the top and many people do. Typically use
a car wax but make SURE it does NOT have silicon. Silicon will ruin
finishes all day.
One old trick is to scub it down with a synthetic pad or other method
to get all rust gone and sort of ploished, then polish it with a hand
full of waxed paper. I would worry a bit of the waxed paper uses
silicon but if it can be determined it doesn't, it is probably a good
approach.
On Nov 5, 9:16=A0am, "James" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Here's my previous posts on this subject.
>
> I think I may have scored a nanner.
>
>
>
> > For future reference, it's a "neener".
>
> Well the neener turned out to really be a nanner. When we started to
> assemble it we discovered that it was missing the rip fence and rails.
> That's what I get for dealing with and appliance salesman and not a
> tool salesman. It looks like someone robbed the fence for another saw
> and didn't mark it as missing parts. I'm going to write a letter to
> Sears customer relations and see what happens sometimes the squeaky
> wheel gets greased in the mean time I'm looking for a fence for around
> $250. I've looked at the Delta T30 and the Mule Accusquare. I'm kinda
> leaning toward the Mule. Will let you know what happens. Jim
>
> The local store manager called me yesterday after customer relations
> called him. He happened to be out of town at the time of the sale (he
> was familiar with the saw) he said that it had be in the warehouse sale
> three times and usually was marked has having no fence so it was as is.
> Someone had dropped the ball. Like I said I was dealing with an
> appliance salesman. Long story short they won't pay for a fence. I can
> either buy a Delta T30 at Lowe's for $150 or an Accusquare 1025 for
> $169 free shipping or the Accusquare 1040 for $179 free shipping. Just
> have to decide whether I want 25" or 40" right cut. The shop is a
> little limited on space. I'm leaning toward the Accusquare because of
> the rear clamp. The Delta seems like it wants to ride up when I was
> checking it out in the store for use with feather boards. I can also
> get Accusquare's miter gage fence attachment for $39, free shipping,
> and still come out ahead on the saw. We only paid $338 for it and it's
> replacing a 35 year old Craftsman. Jim
>
> The follow up. I ended up buying the Accusquare which arrived Monday. I
> installed it yesterday was pretty easy. Just two minor problems. The
> front and back holes in the saw didn't match so I have to enlarge one
> hole in the back rail. I also have to get a couple of metric bolts to
> finish the installation. Accusquare didn't have the Model 1040 fence
> (40"right cut) in stock and offered to ship me the Model 1050 (50"
> right cut) at no extra cost. Since shop space is limited I waited for
> the 1040. They're also sending me one more end cap for the fence. It's
> a great fence. I'm going to order the left hand tape for the saw from
> Sears since they're the cheapest. I set the fence up for 26" right cut
> and 22 3/4" left cut.
>
> A question what does one use on the table saw top to slicken it up? I
> know you don't use wax. Norm mentioned on one of his programs once but
> I've forgotten what it was. Thanks, Jim
>
> --
James wrote:
>
>
> What about Johnsons Paste Wax? I looked on the can but it don't list
> ingredients. Jim
>
It's what I've been using for about the last 25 years.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 19:51:21 GMT, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>James wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> What about Johnsons Paste Wax? I looked on the can but it don't list
>> ingredients. Jim
>>
>
>It's what I've been using for about the last 25 years.
...and I use car wax. It's hard and slick. What you gotta watch out
for are waxes designed for floors (there is a refinishing wax I use
which states on the can "for floors"...I do not use that on my
table)...reason is that those waxes are not as "slick" as other
varieties; for good reason! Got this tip from an olde cabinetmaker.
There's a product out from Bostik, called "Topcoat" and it's OK for a
quick hit, but for me wax is best.
cg
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "James"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > What about Johnsons Paste Wax? I looked on the can but it don't list
> > ingredients. Jim
> >
> No silicone in JPW. Minwax makes a paste wax that is also
> silicone-free.
Thanks, I've been using JPW on the of my DeWalt planer so now I'll be
using it on the table saw. Jim
--
In article <[email protected]>, "James" <[email protected]> wrote:
>What about Johnsons Paste Wax? I looked on the can but it don't list
>ingredients. Jim
>
No silicone in JPW. Minwax makes a paste wax that is also silicone-free.