For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not sharp)
7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the years. Blades
are so much improved and cheap now days so its hard to justify to have it
professionally resharpen. I see you could make clocks out of those blades,
but I don't need any more clocks. One other thing I could do with it is use
it with the rebars in a future concrete pour. I've resharpen some of it by
hand but as I said new blades are so cheap now so why bother. What have you
guys done with old blades other than toss it with the trash?
Larry Blanchard wrote:
> LDR wrote:
> >
> > It was touched on but not hit very hard to my surprise. Old saw blades
> > are a resource for knife- and toolmakers, especially for beginners.
> > That's why I save mine, which I will get around to using if, according
> > to my plans, I live to be a thousand.
>
> LOL! Your project schedule sounds like mine. Somebody's gonna' really
> make out at my estate sale :-).
It will take two generations of estate sales to clean out my shop. I
am one major pack rat. Least that is what the wife says!! LOL
SNIP
For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not
sharp)
7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the years.
Blades
are so much improved and cheap now days so its hard to justify to have
it
professionally resharpen
Heck, there VINTAGE!!! Put em on ebay and reap the rewards. Prolly be
able to pay for a WWII or two. :-)
ANOTHER SNIP
How much does it cost to get a blade sharpened. I can't imagine anyone
doing anything for less than $40-50.
Spoiled here. Took awhile to find him cause he has no website, phone
listing, or ad in Fine Woodworking, but an old codger I know does a
great job on my blades for like $.10 per tooth. I usually tip him
cause I feel guilty dropping off 4-5 blades and getting them the next
day for $20... Do some networking (read buy beers) with some good
finish carpenters and I'm sure if you're nice enough they will give you
the name of their guy.
Jennifer Juniper wrote:
> You
> "Fly-by-Night CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > I assume you really meant cents per tooth? Over the last few years I've
> > always paid about 15 - 20 cents per tooth - perhaps if your DH really
> > was charging cents per tooth (my interpretation is 7-8 cents or less)
> > then he may not have had enough income to really make it work.
>
> You are right, it is/was cents per tooth. I typed it wrong. :) I didn't mean
> that he was charging 7-8 cents or less, I just meant that it wasn't $/tooth
> or something. I forget what he actually charged, but it was considerably
> less than the competition. He tried instituting the payment on pick-up deal,
> warning people ahead of time, but too many people still wouldn't pay. He
> ended up keeping several blades, making his customers angry (even though he
> said that he'd give them the blades the minute they paid and those blades
> sat for months before he closed down the business.) There are just too many
> companies in our area who float lots of their bills. Thanks for the
> suggestion though. :)
>
> ~Jen
What kind of machine did he use?
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>
>> I almost don't need the jointer after ripping anymore.
>> Sometimes I have to look really hard at the board to determine which side
>> I
>> just ripped.
>
> I often glue up straight from the table saw...and I don't have a
> big-buck saw like a lot of you guys in here.
> A good blade and I make sure I'm dead-nuts vertical to the table.
>
> I want a jointer, down the road a ways, for other things, but I can live
> without one just fine.
I don't have a big buck saw either :) (check out my cheap saw at link
below) or a big buck fence for that matter, but boy does a "good" quality
blade make a HUGE difference.
http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmelissa/woodworking_frames.htm
LDR wrote:
>
> It was touched on but not hit very hard to my surprise. Old saw blades
> are a resource for knife- and toolmakers, especially for beginners.
> That's why I save mine, which I will get around to using if, according
> to my plans, I live to be a thousand.
LOL! Your project schedule sounds like mine. Somebody's gonna' really
make out at my estate sale :-).
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> SNIP
> Spoiled here. Took awhile to find him cause he has no website, phone
> listing, or ad in Fine Woodworking, but an old codger I know does a
> great job on my blades for like $.10 per tooth. I usually tip him
> cause I feel guilty dropping off 4-5 blades and getting them the next
> day for $20... Do some networking (read buy beers) with some good
> finish carpenters and I'm sure if you're nice enough they will give you
> the name of their guy.
You think you're spoiled? I just have my husband sharpen my blades. He used
to own/operate his own sharpening business and still has all his equipment.
The only reason he shut it down was because certain construction and
cabinetry companies never paid regularly. He was so good and so inexpensive
that whenever we see one of his old customers around town they beg him to
start it up again.
So I guess that's my <Neener, Neener> :)
As far as sharpening versus buying a new blade, finding a company that
sharpens correctly for a good price is a must. One of my DH's competitors
charged more than he did and used trainees for the work. A lot of cabinet
people would complain that the bevel was off so bad that the blade would
just tear up the wood. Also, you can only sharpen a blade so often before
there isn't enough metal left to sharpen. If you need to replace the teeth,
that can start costing more. However, I'd look around and see if you can
find a company who'd do it for a reasonable price. The few around here
charge cents-per-blade so you'll probably find the same standard pricing.
Test them on one blade and see how it turns out.
My sugestion for other uses...
Make an elaborate sculpture of the inner workings of a machine. Name it
something fancy like "Deus ex machina". Sell it for tons of money. *L*
Good Luck,
Jen
You
"Fly-by-Night CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I assume you really meant cents per tooth? Over the last few years I've
> always paid about 15 - 20 cents per tooth - perhaps if your DH really
> was charging cents per tooth (my interpretation is 7-8 cents or less)
> then he may not have had enough income to really make it work.
You are right, it is/was cents per tooth. I typed it wrong. :) I didn't mean
that he was charging 7-8 cents or less, I just meant that it wasn't $/tooth
or something. I forget what he actually charged, but it was considerably
less than the competition. He tried instituting the payment on pick-up deal,
warning people ahead of time, but too many people still wouldn't pay. He
ended up keeping several blades, making his customers angry (even though he
said that he'd give them the blades the minute they paid and those blades
sat for months before he closed down the business.) There are just too many
companies in our area who float lots of their bills. Thanks for the
suggestion though. :)
~Jen
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>
>> I almost don't need the jointer after ripping anymore.
>> Sometimes I have to look really hard at the board to determine which side
>> I
>> just ripped.
>
> I often glue up straight from the table saw...and I don't have a
> big-buck saw like a lot of you guys in here.
> A good blade and I make sure I'm dead-nuts vertical to the table.
>
> I want a jointer, down the road a ways, for other things, but I can live
> without one just fine.
I gotta say I NEVER do any thing to a ripped edge before gluing it.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 01:29:28 GMT, "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>
> >>so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen.
> >
> >Not at $70 a blade
>
> How much does it cost to get a blade sharpened. I can't imagine anyone
> doing anything for less than $40-50.
>
> I don't even bother to sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
Hmmmm... maybe I want to follow you around the woods for a day.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Great idea. I've got a small stack of semi-ancient pre-carbide era circ blades sitting around
somewhere generating rust, no doubt. I need to shore up Tunnel Three this weekend anyway, so will
look for them while I'm down there.
On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 15:53:56 GMT, LDR <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>It was touched on but not hit very hard to my surprise. Old saw blades
>are a resource for knife- and toolmakers, especially for beginners.
>That's why I save mine, which I will get around to using if, according
>to my plans, I live to be a thousand.
"Bob Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> in 1244111 20051031 020029 "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>
>>http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmelissa/woodworking_frames.htm
>
> I like the bird feeder - what wood did you use?
Thanks. It is poplar with a red water based stain. Then sealed.
It only lasted a couple of years. I need to make a new one, this time out
of cedar.
Jack wrote:
> For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not sharp)
> 7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the years. Blades
> are so much improved and cheap now days so its hard to justify to have it
> professionally resharpen. I see you could make clocks out of those blades,
> but I don't need any more clocks. One other thing I could do with it is use
> it with the rebars in a future concrete pour. I've resharpen some of it by
> hand but as I said new blades are so cheap now so why bother. What have you
> guys done with old blades other than toss it with the trash?
>
>
Think "Scrapers".
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
I cut them up and make knives, scrapers, honing plates and other things from
them.
max
>
> "Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not
>> sharp) 7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the
>> years. Blades are so much improved and cheap now days
>
> Cheap?? Where do you buy yours?
>
> The last 10" blade I bought was $70 (CMT)..
>
>> so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen.
>
> Not at $70 a blade.
>
>> I see you could make clocks out of those blades, but I don't need any more
>> clocks. One other thing I could do with it is use it with the rebars in a
>> future concrete pour. I've resharpen some of it by hand but as I said new
>> blades are so cheap now so why bother. What have you guys done with old
>> blades other than toss it with the trash?
>>
>
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 01:29:28 GMT, "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>
>>>so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen.
>>
>>Not at $70 a blade
>
> How much does it cost to get a blade sharpened. I can't imagine anyone
> doing anything for less than $40-50.
Not so. Here is a company that does it for 21 cents a tooth. My blade has
40 teeth. $8.50 for resharpening.
http://www.dynamic-saw-blade-sharpening.com/sawblades.html
>
> I don't even bother to sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not sharp)
> 7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the years. Blades
> are so much improved and cheap now days so its hard to justify to have it
> professionally resharpen. I see you could make clocks out of those blades,
> but I don't need any more clocks. One other thing I could do with it is use
> it with the rebars in a future concrete pour. I've resharpen some of it by
> hand but as I said new blades are so cheap now so why bother. What have you
> guys done with old blades other than toss it with the trash?
>
>
>
It was touched on but not hit very hard to my surprise. Old saw blades
are a resource for knife- and toolmakers, especially for beginners.
That's why I save mine, which I will get around to using if, according
to my plans, I live to be a thousand.
The last Freud blade (Industrial) I bought was at Home Depot. Varies from
store to store, I guess.
"Fly-by-Night CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Larry Bud" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > HD carries Freud blades.
>
> There's a difference though in the Freud blades available. The ones at
> HD are contractor/consumer, thin-kerf, low cost "Diablo" & TK blades.
> The only Freud blades I buy are the Industrial models (F, LM & LU
> models). These blades have larger carbide teeth and generally full-kerf,
> thicker plates. While the HD blades are in the $20-30 range, the
> Industrial line runs $60-80 and are worth the price if you're after a
> long-lasting quality blade that can be resharpened a number of times.
>
05
You must buy your blades at HD or Menards or Lowes.
My "quality" blades are freuds. I use them for "real" woodworking. For
toobafours and other carpentery work, I used the cheap ones, mostly in
my circular and miter saws.
My freuds cost me about $50-60 each at woodworking shows. My cheapies
cost me 8-15 bucks at menards.
You could trying making a set of cymbals out of them. I've heard of some
people cutting them up and using them for various cutting/carving tools.
John
[email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 01:29:28 GMT, "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>
>
>>>so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen.
>>
>>Not at $70 a blade
>
>
> How much does it cost to get a blade sharpened. I can't imagine anyone
> doing anything for less than $40-50.
>
> I don't even bother to sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
Doesn't cost that much where I live. 10 inch
steel is about $10, carbide is about $14 to
sharpen a 40-60 tooth blade. Excellent shop,
excellent job.
I am exceedingly slow and it takes me about 15
minutes to sharpen a chain saw. About half of
that time is putting the blade in my vise and
attaching the sharpening jig. I get a better
sharpening when I use the jig. I use to use just
a flat guide which attaches to the file, then it
took me about 12 minutes.
I guy that does this as a living can file the
teeth in about 4 minutes without any guide.
"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not
> sharp) 7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the
> years. Blades are so much improved and cheap now days
Cheap?? Where do you buy yours?
The last 10" blade I bought was $70 (CMT)..
>so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen.
Not at $70 a blade.
>I see you could make clocks out of those blades, but I don't need any more
>clocks. One other thing I could do with it is use it with the rebars in a
>future concrete pour. I've resharpen some of it by hand but as I said new
>blades are so cheap now so why bother. What have you guys done with old
>blades other than toss it with the trash?
>
"John T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You must buy your blades at HD or Menards or Lowes.
>
> My "quality" blades are freuds. I use them for "real" woodworking. For
> toobafours and other carpentery work, I used the cheap ones, mostly in my
> circular and miter saws.
> My freuds cost me about $50-60 each at woodworking shows. My cheapies cost
> me 8-15 bucks at menards.
>
> You could trying making a set of cymbals out of them. I've heard of some
> people cutting them up and using them for various cutting/carving tools.
>
> John
>
I used those cheapo blades when i first started out in the hobbie and bought
my first real blade (CMT) and I couldn't believe the difference in the cut.
I was blown away. I almost don't need the jointer after ripping anymore.
Sometimes I have to look really hard at the board to determine which side I
just ripped.
Jerry S. wrote:
> "Fly-by-Night CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>In article <[email protected]>,
>>"Larry Bud" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>...
>>--
>>Owen Lowe
>
>
> For this newsgroup, shouldn't you change the name to "Owin' Lowes"? Or is
> that 12,423,607th time you've heard it?
>
>
if Lowe's can see it's way clear to opening a store closer than the 2
stores 24 miles from my house (in opposite directions), I'll be more
than happy to "owe Lowe's". I prefer them to our local HD's.
Dave
In article <[email protected]>,
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
> I almost don't need the jointer after ripping anymore.
> Sometimes I have to look really hard at the board to determine which side I
> just ripped.
I often glue up straight from the table saw...and I don't have a
big-buck saw like a lot of you guys in here.
A good blade and I make sure I'm dead-nuts vertical to the table.
I want a jointer, down the road a ways, for other things, but I can live
without one just fine.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
> >
> >> I almost don't need the jointer after ripping anymore.
> >> Sometimes I have to look really hard at the board to determine which side
> >> I
> >> just ripped.
> >
> > I often glue up straight from the table saw...and I don't have a
> > big-buck saw like a lot of you guys in here.
> > A good blade and I make sure I'm dead-nuts vertical to the table.
> >
> > I want a jointer, down the road a ways, for other things, but I can live
> > without one just fine.
>
> I gotta say I NEVER do any thing to a ripped edge before gluing it.
A dull jointer can leave a glaze on the surface of the edge which a saw
blade won't. I know that hard maple can glaze to the point where a drop
of water will bead. I found that the use of freshly sharpened blades
reduces glazing. A sawn edge seems to take glue better.
It is a highly subjective observation and I have never tested relative
joint strengths.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote:
> What have you
> guys done with old blades other than toss it with the trash?
I throw them around on the beach...yannow...like a Frisbee?
For some reason, nobody ever wants to play with me.
"Fly-by-Night CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Larry Bud" <[email protected]> wrote:
> ...
> --
> Owen Lowe
For this newsgroup, shouldn't you change the name to "Owin' Lowes"? Or is
that 12,423,607th time you've heard it?
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> GFretwell wrote but didn't archive: snip> I don't even bother to
> sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
>
> But I think a sharpening is cheaper than that. Tom
>
I hear some part of the country sharpening is about $6 but where I am its
around $12 for an 18" chain and a 2 week turn around time from my local
shop. No thanks, I"I'll do it myself, takes only about 5-10 minutes with a
hand file and if the chain is really bad like after eating a nail or some
rocks I clean it up on my chain saw grinder. HD had a fire sale a few months
ago for chain/bar combos for $10 so now I don't need to sharpen my chains
for the next couple of years - I clean out two stores. The chain was around
$24 and the bar around $30 but the funny thing was no one was buying it.
On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 01:29:28 GMT, "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>>so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen.
>
>Not at $70 a blade
How much does it cost to get a blade sharpened. I can't imagine anyone
doing anything for less than $40-50.
I don't even bother to sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 02:00:29 GMT, "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>
>"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>>
>>> I almost don't need the jointer after ripping anymore.
>>> Sometimes I have to look really hard at the board to determine which side
>>> I
>>> just ripped.
>>
>> I often glue up straight from the table saw...and I don't have a
>> big-buck saw like a lot of you guys in here.
>> A good blade and I make sure I'm dead-nuts vertical to the table.
>>
>> I want a jointer, down the road a ways, for other things, but I can live
>> without one just fine.
>
>I don't have a big buck saw either :) (check out my cheap saw at link
>below) or a big buck fence for that matter, but boy does a "good" quality
>blade make a HUGE difference.
>
>http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmelissa/woodworking_frames.htm
>
Nice web page; I like the way you did the various hot spots.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
On Sun, 30 Oct 2005 17:19:22 -0800, "Jack" <[email protected]> wrote:
>For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not sharp)
>7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the years. Blades
>are so much improved and cheap now days so its hard to justify to have it
>professionally resharpen. I see you could make clocks out of those blades,
>but I don't need any more clocks. One other thing I could do with it is use
>it with the rebars in a future concrete pour. I've resharpen some of it by
>hand but as I said new blades are so cheap now so why bother. What have you
>guys done with old blades other than toss it with the trash?
>
You can use the metal to cut out various items. Or, I still use old
blades on rare occasions to cut through materials that normally will
quickly dull a good blade.
On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 15:53:56 GMT, LDR <[email protected]>
wrote:
>It was touched on but not hit very hard to my surprise. Old saw blades
>are a resource for knife- and toolmakers,
Great idea, thanks. Occasionally I do have a need for some good steel
and I bet a saw blade has it.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Jerry S." <[email protected]> wrote:
> For this newsgroup, shouldn't you change the name to "Owin' Lowes"? Or is
> that 12,423,607th time you've heard it?
Honestly, that's a new one - never heard it before.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
In article <[email protected]>,
"Jennifer Juniper" <[email protected]> wrote:
> You think you're spoiled? I just have my husband sharpen my blades. He used
> to own/operate his own sharpening business and still has all his equipment.
> The only reason he shut it down was because certain construction and
> cabinetry companies never paid regularly. He was so good and so inexpensive
> that whenever we see one of his old customers around town they beg him to
> start it up again.
> So I guess that's my <Neener, Neener> :)
Perhaps there's still enough demand that it could be a viable business -
with one major change: full payment on pickup, no exceptions. If the
item(s) are not retrieved within 60 days, then your husband can sell
them to recoup costs. Implement a receipt system with a brief legal
release that all sign upon drop-off.
> As far as sharpening versus buying a new blade, finding a company that
> sharpens correctly for a good price is a must. One of my DH's competitors
> charged more than he did and used trainees for the work. A lot of cabinet
> people would complain that the bevel was off so bad that the blade would
> just tear up the wood. Also, you can only sharpen a blade so often before
> there isn't enough metal left to sharpen. If you need to replace the teeth,
> that can start costing more. However, I'd look around and see if you can
> find a company who'd do it for a reasonable price. The few around here
> charge cents-per-blade so you'll probably find the same standard pricing.
> Test them on one blade and see how it turns out.
I assume you really meant cents per tooth? Over the last few years I've
always paid about 15 - 20 cents per tooth - perhaps if your DH really
was charging cents per tooth (my interpretation is 7-8 cents or less)
then he may not have had enough income to really make it work.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
In article <[email protected]>,
"Larry Bud" <[email protected]> wrote:
> HD carries Freud blades.
There's a difference though in the Freud blades available. The ones at
HD are contractor/consumer, thin-kerf, low cost "Diablo" & TK blades.
The only Freud blades I buy are the Industrial models (F, LM & LU
models). These blades have larger carbide teeth and generally full-kerf,
thicker plates. While the HD blades are in the $20-30 range, the
Industrial line runs $60-80 and are worth the price if you're after a
long-lasting quality blade that can be resharpened a number of times.
Just my 2 cents and bias.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
In article <[email protected]>,
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> The last Freud blade (Industrial) I bought was at Home Depot. Varies from
> store to store, I guess.
Ah, I hadn't noticed them - thanks for clarifying my comments.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________
"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05
in 1244111 20051031 020029 "stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>
>http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmelissa/woodworking_frames.htm
All I can say RE: your shop photography is "lens pen". <g>
<http://cgi.ebay.com/Sima-Lens-Pen-New-in-Package_W0QQitemZ7558878020QQcategoryZ43479QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem>
or
http://www.lenspen.com/
or
<http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006JN3G/102-1045288-5361741?v=glance&n=502394&n=507846&s=photo&v=glance>
They're really, really handy. (Somebody tell David Eisen and Phully
about these, too. They haven't listened to me.) <vbg>
That bird's eye maple table for you mom is beautiful. Well done.
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PESSIMIST: An optimist with experience
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www.diversify.com - Web Database Development
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not
>> sharp) 7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the
>> years. Blades are so much improved and cheap now days
>
> Cheap?? Where do you buy yours?
>
> The last 10" blade I bought was $70 (CMT)..
>
>>so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen.
>
> Not at $70 a blade.
>
I stock up on blades whenever I find it on sale, Home Depot, Harbor Freight,
Lowe's, local tool store or wherever. I have blades anywhere from under $10
to your $70 price range. I do laminate and recycle wood and when you hit one
nail with your expensive blade it will perform no better than when I hit one
nail with my cheap blade. Anyway those cheap blades are either M2 or C2
carbide tipped so it really doesn't cut all that bad and many are cheaper to
replace than reshapren. Before I change out my blade I cut concrete boards
for kitchen or bathroom counter tops, something I don't think you want to do
with your precious CMT blade. Different strokes for different folks.