BA

Bay Area Dave

07/07/2004 2:49 PM

What do you use to flick distressing marks onto projects?

I've used a toothbrush and find it takes more time and
"flicks" then I have patience for. I use model paints
(enamel) because the consistency is perfect and the spots
don't spread out like stains. There has to be a better way
to fling small specks QUICKLY. I don't want large
splotches, so I've not tried any larger brush.

dave


This topic has 7 replies

BA

Bay Area Dave

in reply to Bay Area Dave on 07/07/2004 2:49 PM

07/07/2004 6:30 PM

Charles Spitzer wrote:

> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Ed Angell wrote:
>>
>>
>>>"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Ed Angell wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Hey Dave,
>>>>>back when I built sets for the film industry, I would see the scenic
>>>
>>>artists
>>>
>>>
>>>>>doing specks using a paint brush with rather long bristles, after
>>>
>>>dipping
>>>
>>>
>>>>>the tips of the brush in paint, they would hold the brush in one hand
>>>
>>>and
>>>
>>>
>>>>>strike the other hand flicking the paint off the bristles. It seemed
>>>
>>>that
>>>
>>>
>>>>>the viscosity of the paint was the secret. For really large areas,
>
> they
>
>>>>>would put the paint into a Hudson sprayer, hook that to the suction
>
> line
>
>>>of
>>>
>>>
>>>>>a paint gun, pump up the pressure and use a very low atomizing pressure
>>>
>>>to
>>>
>>>
>>>>>the gun, hence droplets.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks for the green tint tip.
>>>>>
>>>>>Ed Angell
>>>>>
>>>>>"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>I've used a toothbrush and find it takes more time and
>>>>>>"flicks" then I have patience for. I use model paints
>>>>>>(enamel) because the consistency is perfect and the spots
>>>>>>don't spread out like stains. There has to be a better way
>>>>>>to fling small specks QUICKLY. I don't want large
>>>>>>splotches, so I've not tried any larger brush.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>dave
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Dave,
>>>
>>>If you do a lot of work that require small specks, I'll bet you could
>
> modify
>
>>>one of those cheapo touch up airbrushes that have the small glass jar.
>>>Remove the jar and feed pressurized paint to the gun directly. I
>
> believe
>
>>>that the airbrush would give you the small specks you need. Keep the
>>>atomizing air very low and you should have excellant control over the
>>>product.
>>>
>>>Ed Angell
>>>
>>>
>>
>>that's an idea, Ed. I have a Paasche air brush. maybe it
>>would do a splatter like you said, if I play around with the
>>pressure. thanks!
>>
>>dave
>>
>
>
> my aztex airbrush has a specific nozzle to produce spatters. i'd bet that
> yours does also.
>
>
I'm not sure if they do. I have the numbers 1, 3 and 5 tips
and just went online to see if they make any others. no
luck. I try with what I've got and see what happens.

dave

BA

Bay Area Dave

in reply to Bay Area Dave on 07/07/2004 2:49 PM

07/07/2004 5:13 PM

Ed Angell wrote:

> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Ed Angell wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hey Dave,
>>>back when I built sets for the film industry, I would see the scenic
>
> artists
>
>>>doing specks using a paint brush with rather long bristles, after
>
> dipping
>
>>>the tips of the brush in paint, they would hold the brush in one hand
>
> and
>
>>>strike the other hand flicking the paint off the bristles. It seemed
>
> that
>
>>>the viscosity of the paint was the secret. For really large areas, they
>>>would put the paint into a Hudson sprayer, hook that to the suction line
>
> of
>
>>>a paint gun, pump up the pressure and use a very low atomizing pressure
>
> to
>
>>>the gun, hence droplets.
>>>
>>>Thanks for the green tint tip.
>>>
>>>Ed Angell
>>>
>>>"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>>I've used a toothbrush and find it takes more time and
>>>>"flicks" then I have patience for. I use model paints
>>>>(enamel) because the consistency is perfect and the spots
>>>>don't spread out like stains. There has to be a better way
>>>>to fling small specks QUICKLY. I don't want large
>>>>splotches, so I've not tried any larger brush.
>>>>
>>>>dave
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Dave,
>
> If you do a lot of work that require small specks, I'll bet you could modify
> one of those cheapo touch up airbrushes that have the small glass jar.
> Remove the jar and feed pressurized paint to the gun directly. I believe
> that the airbrush would give you the small specks you need. Keep the
> atomizing air very low and you should have excellant control over the
> product.
>
> Ed Angell
>
>
that's an idea, Ed. I have a Paasche air brush. maybe it
would do a splatter like you said, if I play around with the
pressure. thanks!

dave

EA

"Ed Angell"

in reply to Bay Area Dave on 07/07/2004 2:49 PM

07/07/2004 4:41 PM


"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ed Angell wrote:
>
> > Hey Dave,
> > back when I built sets for the film industry, I would see the scenic
artists
> > doing specks using a paint brush with rather long bristles, after
dipping
> > the tips of the brush in paint, they would hold the brush in one hand
and
> > strike the other hand flicking the paint off the bristles. It seemed
that
> > the viscosity of the paint was the secret. For really large areas, they
> > would put the paint into a Hudson sprayer, hook that to the suction line
of
> > a paint gun, pump up the pressure and use a very low atomizing pressure
to
> > the gun, hence droplets.
> >
> > Thanks for the green tint tip.
> >
> > Ed Angell
> >
> > "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>I've used a toothbrush and find it takes more time and
> >>"flicks" then I have patience for. I use model paints
> >>(enamel) because the consistency is perfect and the spots
> >>don't spread out like stains. There has to be a better way
> >>to fling small specks QUICKLY. I don't want large
> >>splotches, so I've not tried any larger brush.
> >>
> >>dave
> >>
> > >> Dave,
If you do a lot of work that require small specks, I'll bet you could modify
one of those cheapo touch up airbrushes that have the small glass jar.
Remove the jar and feed pressurized paint to the gun directly. I believe
that the airbrush would give you the small specks you need. Keep the
atomizing air very low and you should have excellant control over the
product.

Ed Angell

CS

"Charles Spitzer"

in reply to Bay Area Dave on 07/07/2004 2:49 PM

07/07/2004 10:35 AM


"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ed Angell wrote:
>
> > "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>Ed Angell wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Hey Dave,
> >>>back when I built sets for the film industry, I would see the scenic
> >
> > artists
> >
> >>>doing specks using a paint brush with rather long bristles, after
> >
> > dipping
> >
> >>>the tips of the brush in paint, they would hold the brush in one hand
> >
> > and
> >
> >>>strike the other hand flicking the paint off the bristles. It seemed
> >
> > that
> >
> >>>the viscosity of the paint was the secret. For really large areas,
they
> >>>would put the paint into a Hudson sprayer, hook that to the suction
line
> >
> > of
> >
> >>>a paint gun, pump up the pressure and use a very low atomizing pressure
> >
> > to
> >
> >>>the gun, hence droplets.
> >>>
> >>>Thanks for the green tint tip.
> >>>
> >>>Ed Angell
> >>>
> >>>"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>>news:[email protected]...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I've used a toothbrush and find it takes more time and
> >>>>"flicks" then I have patience for. I use model paints
> >>>>(enamel) because the consistency is perfect and the spots
> >>>>don't spread out like stains. There has to be a better way
> >>>>to fling small specks QUICKLY. I don't want large
> >>>>splotches, so I've not tried any larger brush.
> >>>>
> >>>>dave
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> Dave,
> >
> > If you do a lot of work that require small specks, I'll bet you could
modify
> > one of those cheapo touch up airbrushes that have the small glass jar.
> > Remove the jar and feed pressurized paint to the gun directly. I
believe
> > that the airbrush would give you the small specks you need. Keep the
> > atomizing air very low and you should have excellant control over the
> > product.
> >
> > Ed Angell
> >
> >
> that's an idea, Ed. I have a Paasche air brush. maybe it
> would do a splatter like you said, if I play around with the
> pressure. thanks!
>
> dave
>

my aztex airbrush has a specific nozzle to produce spatters. i'd bet that
yours does also.

BA

Bay Area Dave

in reply to Bay Area Dave on 07/07/2004 2:49 PM

07/07/2004 3:57 PM

Ed Angell wrote:

> Hey Dave,
> back when I built sets for the film industry, I would see the scenic artists
> doing specks using a paint brush with rather long bristles, after dipping
> the tips of the brush in paint, they would hold the brush in one hand and
> strike the other hand flicking the paint off the bristles. It seemed that
> the viscosity of the paint was the secret. For really large areas, they
> would put the paint into a Hudson sprayer, hook that to the suction line of
> a paint gun, pump up the pressure and use a very low atomizing pressure to
> the gun, hence droplets.
>
> Thanks for the green tint tip.
>
> Ed Angell
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I've used a toothbrush and find it takes more time and
>>"flicks" then I have patience for. I use model paints
>>(enamel) because the consistency is perfect and the spots
>>don't spread out like stains. There has to be a better way
>>to fling small specks QUICKLY. I don't want large
>>splotches, so I've not tried any larger brush.
>>
>>dave
>>
>
>
>
Ed, thanks for the suggestion. Hope the green tint gets you
the color you need.

I've taken to mixing all my own water based dye stains this
year instead of relying on solvent based pigmented stains.
I use mostly oak and find that the contrast between the
early and late wood is more than I prefer. I picked up some
Transtint dye (liquid) and some dye powders, including basic
colors like yellow, ruby red, and green so that I can modify
the stains to my heart's content. I just refinished a 100+
year old chest for SWMBO that turned out to everyone's
delight, by mixing and re-mixing until I got that "golden
hue" I had in my mind's eye. The only PITA I find is that
deep pores don't take too kindly to water based dyes, even
with a bit of surfactant added.

dave

EA

"Ed Angell"

in reply to Bay Area Dave on 07/07/2004 2:49 PM

07/07/2004 3:17 PM

Hey Dave,
back when I built sets for the film industry, I would see the scenic artists
doing specks using a paint brush with rather long bristles, after dipping
the tips of the brush in paint, they would hold the brush in one hand and
strike the other hand flicking the paint off the bristles. It seemed that
the viscosity of the paint was the secret. For really large areas, they
would put the paint into a Hudson sprayer, hook that to the suction line of
a paint gun, pump up the pressure and use a very low atomizing pressure to
the gun, hence droplets.

Thanks for the green tint tip.

Ed Angell

"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've used a toothbrush and find it takes more time and
> "flicks" then I have patience for. I use model paints
> (enamel) because the consistency is perfect and the spots
> don't spread out like stains. There has to be a better way
> to fling small specks QUICKLY. I don't want large
> splotches, so I've not tried any larger brush.
>
> dave
>

BA

Bay Area Dave

in reply to Bay Area Dave on 07/07/2004 2:49 PM

07/07/2004 6:38 PM

Bay Area Dave wrote:

I try with what
> I've got and see what happens.
>
> dave
>
My fingers can't keep up with my brain.

dave


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