A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
the miter gauge will never change but...
Enjoy
---
www.garagewoodworks.com
"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
> words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> Enjoy
>
> ---
> www.garagewoodworks.com
This has always worked well for me.
http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/MiterGauge#5440906371837086402
Max
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:20:33 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
>> wrote:
>>
>> > A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>>
>> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>>
>> > I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
>> > but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
>> > words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
>> > and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
>> > the miter gauge will never change but...
>>
>> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
>> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
>> shots, even with my computer glasses on. ;)
>>
>> --
>> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
>> -- Clarence Darrow
>
>I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. Please consider re-viewing
>if you get a chance.
Done. Ahh, much better. The dial is quite readable, but the picture
is still blown out (your hand has pure white spots on top, etc.)
Lowered light levels would help your $20 Chiwanese camera a bit. <vbg>
BTW, I've never even seen a thickarse square like that. Where'd you
find it? Is it aluminum or steel?
--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:43:01 -0600, the infamous -MIKE-
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>> We ought to be looking for horses
>> not zebras.
>>
>> Joe G
>
>Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
Streetwalkers vs striped aminals?
--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow
On Feb 21, 11:34=A0am, Father Haskell <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Feb 21, 10:27=A0am, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> > A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> > I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> > but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> > words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> > and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> > the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> > Enjoy
>
> > ---www.garagewoodworks.com
>
> This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
> miter slot.
Yes. Mine is dead-on. I use a TS-aligner Jr for that.
>=A0It would also help to have an extension fence attached
> to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
> #8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
I used that gauge for video purposes only. I use an Osborne EB3
normally.
>
> That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
> 18" Starrett combo square.
On Feb 21, 11:19=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> RE: Subject
>
> A 12" x 12" x 3/4" piece of MDF with a 3/8" x 3/4" white oak runner
> attached at right angles (Or parallel if you prefer) to the edges.
>
> Drop runner into slot, adjust miter gage face to 12 x 12.
>
> Get a beer and admire your work.
>
> Lew
> .
That's not complicated enough. Come on Lew. Geesh
"blueman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Or use a PALS which allows you to precisely move the trunion bolts via a
> pair of allen screws rather than repeatedly wacking with a mallet.
>
> Very useful in my experience. I was able to adjust my 20 year old
> Craftsman table saw to within 1 thousandth that way...
I got my Craftsman within 1 thousandth too - just by "tunking it". The
whole story behind that is that I was attempting to get it within 4-5
thousandths, and by pure chance, got it within 1. Of course, I locked it
down right then and there. If I ever undertake that effort again - I'll buy
the PALS in advance.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Feb 21, 11:09=A0am, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
> GarageWoodworks wrote:
> > A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> > I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> > but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> > words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> > and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> > the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> > Enjoy
>
> > ---
> >www.garagewoodworks.com
>
> On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
> edge of the table. =A0To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
> the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
> table's edge and lock it down.
Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big
Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. :^)
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
On Feb 21, 2:14=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, -MIKE- <m...@mikedr=
umsDOT.com> wrote:
> >> We ought to be looking for horses
> >> not zebras.
>
> >> Joe G
>
> >Wow, ok..... never heard that one. =A0 Enlighten me, please.
>
> Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In other
> words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple explanations be=
fore
> unusual or exotic ones.
Aka Occam's razor
On Feb 21, 11:05=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:20:33 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>
>
> >On Feb 21, 1:32=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
> >> wrote:
>
> >> > A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> >> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> >> > I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> >> > but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> >> > words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing thi=
s
> >> > and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade a=
nd
> >> > the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> >> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
> >> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
> >> shots, even with my computer glasses on. =A0;)
>
> >> --
> >> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
> >> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0-- Clarence Darrow
>
> >I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. =A0Please consider re-viewing
> >if you get a chance.
>
> Done. =A0Ahh, much better. The dial is quite readable, but the picture
> is still blown out (your hand has pure white spots on top, etc.)
>
> Lowered light levels would help your $20 Chiwanese camera a bit. <vbg>
>
> BTW, I've never even seen a thickarse square like that. =A0Where'd you
> find it? =A0Is it aluminum or steel?
Forgot to mention that it's steel.
On Feb 21, 12:40=A0pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article <[email protected].=
com>, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> >I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> >but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> >words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> >and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> >the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> This 'old dog' certainly plans to change. Very slick. Thanks for posting =
that,
> Brian.
Cool. Definitely give it a try. I NEVER square using any other
method. And I often re-check for square in the middle of a
woodworking session. -It makes ya feel good.
On Feb 21, 3:17=A0pm, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
> Father Haskell wrote:
>
> > This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
> > miter slot. =A0It would also help to have an extension fence attached
> > to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
> > #8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
>
> > That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
> > 18" Starrett combo square.
>
> If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
> would be a wider kerf.
Burnt wood and wandering cuts.
GarageWoodworks wrote:
> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
> words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> Enjoy
>
> ---
> www.garagewoodworks.com
On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
edge of the table. To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
table's edge and lock it down.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
GarageWoodworks wrote:
> On Feb 21, 11:09 am, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>>On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
>>edge of the table. To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
>>the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
>>table's edge and lock it down.
>
>
> Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big
> Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. :^)
>
Does the Incra 2000 count? It's what I'm using.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
Father Haskell wrote:
>
> This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
> miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
> to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
> #8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
>
> That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
> 18" Starrett combo square.
If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
would be a wider kerf.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"GarageWoodworks" wrote:
That's not complicated enough. Come on Lew. Geesh
-----------------------------------
Shucks, that was low hanging fruit.
As my dad told me when I was very young.
"Son, you want to find the easiest way to do a job,
find the laziest person you know to do it."
"May not be the fastest, nut it WILL be the easiest."
As you can see, that lesson made an impression on me.
You want a challenge?
Simplify the design of the straight pin.
Lew
Steve Turner wrote:
> On 2/21/2010 2:58 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>
>> In article<[email protected]>,
>> Nova<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Father Haskell wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
>>>> miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
>>>> to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
>>>> #8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
>>>>
>>>> That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
>>>> 18" Starrett combo square.
>>>
>>>
>>> If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
>>> would be a wider kerf.
>>
>>
>> And tooth marks on the work.
>
>
> And a kerf that's *curved* according to the amount of skew.
>
If the blade isn't parallel to the miter slot the anomalies mentioned
will occur regardless of the miter gauge accuracy.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Feb 21, 11:05=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:20:33 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>
>
> >On Feb 21, 1:32=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
> >> wrote:
>
> >> > A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> >> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> >> > I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> >> > but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> >> > words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing thi=
s
> >> > and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade a=
nd
> >> > the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> >> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
> >> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
> >> shots, even with my computer glasses on. =A0;)
>
> >> --
> >> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
> >> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0-- Clarence Darrow
>
> >I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. =A0Please consider re-viewing
> >if you get a chance.
>
> Done. =A0Ahh, much better. The dial is quite readable, but the picture
> is still blown out (your hand has pure white spots on top, etc.)
Thanks. Looks like I need to read-up a little.
>
> Lowered light levels would help your $20 Chiwanese camera a bit. <vbg>
>
> BTW, I've never even seen a thickarse square like that. =A0Where'd you
> find it? =A0Is it aluminum or steel?
Ed Bennett. Can't go wrong with Ed. High quality, awesome customer
service:
http://www.ts-aligner.com/accessories.htm
>
> --
> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0-- Clarence Darrow
On Feb 21, 3:02=A0pm, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry Jaques<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> >> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
> >> wrote:
>
> >>> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> >>>http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> >>> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> >>> but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> >>> words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> >>> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade an=
d
> >>> the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> >> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
> >> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
> >> shots, even with my computer glasses on. =A0;)
>
> >> --
> >> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
> >> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -- Clarence Darrow
>
> > yes, that was a problem. =A0It's not really glare, but the quality of
> > the camera. =A0When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
> > gauge and square was out of frame. =A0I either needed a high def camera
> > or a second camera that was zoomed in. =A0On my computer I CAN see the
> > dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. =A0I di=
d
> > my best with what I have.
>
> Better camera won't help the particular problem. =A0If you watch your
> video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much
> clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. =A0Also if you look
> closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
> photographers call "blown highlights". =A0If your camera has exposure
> control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
> be clearer. =A0Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
> lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.
> =A0 If you haven't read
> <http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lightin...=
>
> you might find it very worthwhile.
Ok. Thanks. Maybe I will re-shoot that segment.
On Feb 21, 3:49=A0pm, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Feb 21, 3:02=A0pm, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
>
> > > On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry Jaques<[email protected]> =A0wrote:
> > >> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
> > >> wrote:
>
> > >>> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> > >>>http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> > >>> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method=
,
> > >>> but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> > >>> words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing th=
is
> > >>> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade =
and
> > >>> the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> > >> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
> > >> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the ins=
et
> > >> shots, even with my computer glasses on. =A0;)
>
> > >> --
> > >> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
> > >> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -- Clarence Darrow
>
> > > yes, that was a problem. =A0It's not really glare, but the quality of
> > > the camera. =A0When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
> > > gauge and square was out of frame. =A0I either needed a high def came=
ra
> > > or a second camera that was zoomed in. =A0On my computer I CAN see th=
e
> > > dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. =A0I =
did
> > > my best with what I have.
>
> > Better camera won't help the particular problem. =A0If you watch your
> > video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is muc=
h
> > clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. =A0Also if you look
> > closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
> > photographers call "blown highlights". =A0If your camera has exposure
> > control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
> > be clearer. =A0Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
> > lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.
> > =A0 If you haven't read
> > <http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lightin.=
..>
> > you might find it very worthwhile.
>
> Ok. =A0Thanks. =A0Maybe I will re-shoot that segment.
I will have`to put the same shirt back on. ;^)
On Feb 21, 1:32=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
> wrote:
>
> > A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> > I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> > but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> > words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> > and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> > the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
> shots, even with my computer glasses on. =A0;)
>
> --
> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0-- Clarence Darrow
I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. Please consider re-viewing
if you get a chance.
Thanks!
On Feb 21, 11:54=A0am, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Feb 21, 11:52=A0am, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >
>
> >
The table on my Unisaw was delivered with the miter slot parallel to
the blade and hasn't deviated from parallel in 30 years. But then I
don't use the saw top as an anvil. We ought to be looking for horses
not zebras.
Joe G
On Feb 21, 3:13=A0pm, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
> GarageWoodworks wrote:
> > On Feb 21, 11:09 am, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> >>On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
> >>edge of the table. =A0To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putti=
ng
> >>the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
> >>table's edge and lock it down.
>
> > Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big
> > Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. =A0:^)
>
> Does the Incra 2000 count? =A0It's what I'm using.
Sure, but I envision it being a huge PITA. And not very accurate.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
On Feb 21, 1:32=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
> wrote:
>
> > A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> >http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> > I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> > but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> > words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> > and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> > the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
> shots, even with my computer glasses on. =A0;)
>
> --
> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0-- Clarence Darrow
yes, that was a problem. It's not really glare, but the quality of
the camera. When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
gauge and square was out of frame. I either needed a high def camera
or a second camera that was zoomed in. On my computer I CAN see the
dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. I did
my best with what I have.
On Feb 21, 11:54=A0am, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Feb 21, 11:52=A0am, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
>
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
> > >miter slot.
>
> > That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
> > align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
> > go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
> > the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
> > investigated.
>
> > The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
> > shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
> > so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
> > to accomplish properly in my opinion.
>
> You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
> mallet until aligned. =A0Re-tighten bolts.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
For a contractor's saw, loosen the back trunnion and
reposition as needed. PALS brackets are handy,
but not necessary. Helps to shim the trunnion (or
top, in the case of a cabinet saw) level, too, as long
as you have it loose, so bevel cuts are less likely
to burn at the heel end.
On Feb 21, 1:43=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> > We ought to be looking for horses
> > not zebras.
>
> > Joe G
>
> Wow, ok..... never heard that one. =A0 Enlighten me, please.
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
What I meant with the horses/zebra analogy was that the simpler method
of alignment, ie inverting the miter gauge in the miter slot and then
locking the gauge against the front edge of the table saw might do a
better job that the dial indicator method which is more elegant. The
more parts involved in the solution allows for a greater possibility
of error. (An example of Murphy's Law).
The reference to Occam's Razor is proof that many of this NGs
contributors are pretty smart.
Joe G
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote:
>This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
>miter slot.
That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
investigated.
The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
to accomplish properly in my opinion.
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:43:01 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> We ought to be looking for horses
>> not zebras.
>Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
I've never heard that expression either, but I'm guessing he's saying
that unaligned table saw blades to the table are few and far between.
"HeyBub" <[email protected]> writes:
>
> For example, the phrase "Do unto others as ye would have them do unto thee"
> was once enshrined as "Don't be evil" until earlier texts were found. You
> can Google it.
LOL!
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, -MIKE-
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> We ought to be looking for horses
>>> not zebras.
>>>
>>> Joe G
>>
>>Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
>
> Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In other
> words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple explanations
> before
> unusual or exotic ones.
Sonetimes it is a Zebra......10-11 years ago after a rather hellish (pain
filled) 4 months, near death, multiple biopsies, a wrong cancer diagnoses,
eventual surgery and subsequent immune suppressants etc....... my Doctor
turned to me a said your a "Zebra".......apparently the medical team had
been looking for a horse<G>....Rod
In article <[email protected]>,
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2/21/10 1:14 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> In article<[email protected]>,
>-MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> We ought to be looking for horses
>>>> not zebras.
>>>>
>>>> Joe G
>>>
>>> Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
>>
>> Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In other
>> words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple explanations before
>> unusual or exotic ones.
>
>
>Nice. Adopted for future use.
And, since -- as everybody knows -- a zebra is 25 sizes larger than an a-bra,
it definitely qualifies as 'unsual' and/or 'exotic'. Chesty Morgan, where are
you???
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "HeyBub"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> For example, the phrase "Do unto others as ye would have them do
>> unto thee" was once enshrined as "Don't be evil" until earlier texts
>> were found. You can Google it.
>
> Hillel is reputed to have said "What you wish not done to you, do not
> to
> others. This is the whole of the Law; all the rest is commentary."
Right. And you'll note it is backwards from the Christian "Golden Rule."
Hillel's rendition is a "don't" rather than a "do."
As an aside, Hillel's maxim was in response to a challenge to condense the
essence of the Torah to that which could be stated while standing on one
foot.
GarageWoodworks wrote:
> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
> words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> Enjoy
>
> ---
> www.garagewoodworks.com
Very clear. Very obvious as well. So why hadn't I thought of using a
method like that before? Thanks for the tip.
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
Father Haskell wrote:
> On Feb 21, 10:27Â am, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>>
>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>>
>> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
>> but I finally put it in a video. Â If a picture speaks a thousand
>> words... Â Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
>> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
>> the miter gauge will never change but...
>>
>> Enjoy
>>
>> ---www.garagewoodworks.com
>
> This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
> miter slot.
That's what his TS Aligner Jr is for. :-)
More seriously, if the blade is not aligned dead on with the mitre slot,
you have a lot of other potential problems since one is setting up cuts
under that assumption. If the two planes are not parallel, then even
squaring up at the start of the cut is not going to be very helpful since
the remaining part of the cut will move the stock out of plane with the
sawblade.
> It would also help to have an extension fence attached
> to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
> #8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
>
> That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
> 18" Starrett combo square.
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
On 2/21/2010 1:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> The was always the temptation to break into a machine or reach for test
> equipment...
> when 80 percent of the time, the darn thing just wasn't plugged in. :-)
First rule of troubleshooting any electronic equipment: "Check the voltage."
Just before mixing the last and headline act of the night at a festival
sound gig many years ago, the pianist/band leader (Rice Graduate, EE
major to boot) couldn't get us a sound out of his rig so suddenly
started dismantling it onstage (being the famous inventor of the
particular piano pickup system he uses) while the now mostly drunk,
angry festival crowd was on the verge of rebellion, being that he was
also an hour late to the gig to start with.
I had initially tried to quiz him, over his monitor, if it was plugged
in (I was in a tower about 150' away), but was curtly cut off in mid
sentence.
Well, after that brief exchange from the little lounge lizard, he was on
his on as far as I was concerned ... and, as colorblind as I am, I never
saw such a red face, even from that distance, when he finally snapped to
the fact that it wasn't, with 2500 folks watching his every move for the
45 minutes it took him to figure it out.
Normally and notoriously, an ass to deal with, he was most humble for
the rest of the, much shortened, show ... go figure.
Sometimes there's justice in the world ... :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 15:02:18 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
>> On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry Jaques<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>>>
>>>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>>>
>>>> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
>>>> but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
>>>> words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
>>>> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
>>>> the miter gauge will never change but...
>>>
>>> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
>>> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
>>> shots, even with my computer glasses on. ;)
>>>
>>> --
>>> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
>>> -- Clarence Darrow
>>
>> yes, that was a problem. It's not really glare, but the quality of
>> the camera. When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
>> gauge and square was out of frame. I either needed a high def camera
>> or a second camera that was zoomed in. On my computer I CAN see the
>> dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. I did
>> my best with what I have.
>
>Better camera won't help the particular problem. If you watch your
>video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much
>clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. Also if you look
>closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
>photographers call "blown highlights". If your camera has exposure
>control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
>be clearer. Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
>lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.
Simply lowering the light level would help, too. Unscrew a couple of
the fluor lamps, Bri.
> If you haven't read
><http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240808193/ref=pd_sim_b_8>
>you might find it very worthwhile.
Ditto Exposure and Lighting (For Digital Photographers Only)
http://fwd4.me/GYN Lots of good info.
--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow
On Feb 21, 12:39=A0pm, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
> >> to accomplish properly in my opinion.
>
> >You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
> >mallet until aligned. =A0Re-tighten bolts.
>
> Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
> a solution. =A0:)
If your trunion assembly is attached to the bottom of your table, that
method won't work.
On Feb 21, 10:47=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 09:48:21 -0800 (PST), the infamous Robatoy
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
> >On Feb 21, 12:39=A0pm, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
>
> >> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
> >> >> to accomplish properly in my opinion.
>
> >> >You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
> >> >mallet until aligned. =A0Re-tighten bolts.
>
> >> Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
> >> a solution. =A0:)
>
> >If your trunion assembly is attached to the bottom of your table, that
> >method won't work.
>
> Right, so loosen the trunnion bolts and move it instead. Same/same.
>
> --
> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0-- Clarence Darrow
well.....yahah
On Feb 21, 11:52=A0am, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
> >miter slot.
>
> That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
> align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
> go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
> the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
> investigated.
>
> The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
> shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
> so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
> to accomplish properly in my opinion.
You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.
On Feb 21, 10:27=A0am, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]>
wrote:
> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> but I finally put it in a video. =A0If a picture speaks a thousand
> words... =A0 Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> the miter gauge will never change but...
>
> Enjoy
>
> ---www.garagewoodworks.com
This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
#8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
18" Starrett combo square.
GarageWoodworks wrote:
> On Feb 21, 11:52 am, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
>>> miter slot.
>>
>> That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
>> align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the
>> get go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built
>> into the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
>> investigated.
>>
>> The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
>> shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
>> so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
>> to accomplish properly in my opinion.
>
> You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
> mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.
Any saw that doesn't have _some_ means of aligning the blade is a piece of
crap.
Father Haskell wrote:
> On Feb 21, 10:27 am, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>>
>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>>
>> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
>> but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
>> words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
>> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade
>> and the miter gauge will never change but...
>>
>> Enjoy
>>
>> ---www.garagewoodworks.com
>
> This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
> miter slot.
If it isn't you've got other problems.
> It would also help to have an extension fence attached
> to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
> #8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
>
> That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
> 18" Starrett combo square.
In article <[email protected]>, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> wrote:
>A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
>http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
>I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
>but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
>words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
>and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
>the miter gauge will never change but...
This 'old dog' certainly plans to change. Very slick. Thanks for posting that,
Brian.
On 2/21/10 10:34 AM, Father Haskell wrote:
> This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
> miter slot.
If you one doesn't care enough about accuracy to square their blade to
their slot, then I doubt they're going to care enough to square their
miter gauge with a dial indicator.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/21/10 11:48 AM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Feb 21, 12:39 pm, Upscale<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
>>>> to accomplish properly in my opinion.
>>
>>> You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
>>> mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.
>>
>> Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
>> a solution. :)
>
> If your trunion assembly is attached to the bottom of your table, that
> method won't work.
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/21/10 12:32 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
> shots, even with my computer glasses on. ;)
>
Me, too. I just assumed it was doing what he said it was doing. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
> We ought to be looking for horses
> not zebras.
>
> Joe G
Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/21/10 12:51 PM, Upscale wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:43:01 -0600, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>> We ought to be looking for horses
>>> not zebras.
>
>> Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
>
> I've never heard that expression either, but I'm guessing he's saying
> that unaligned table saw blades to the table are few and far between.
Maybe, but I'd like to hear it from the horse's mouth.
HAHAHAHAHA! I got a million of 'em.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
In article <[email protected]>, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> We ought to be looking for horses
>> not zebras.
>>
>> Joe G
>
>Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In other
words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple explanations before
unusual or exotic ones.
On 2/21/10 1:14 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> We ought to be looking for horses
>>> not zebras.
>>>
>>> Joe G
>>
>> Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
>
> Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In other
> words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple explanations before
> unusual or exotic ones.
Nice. Adopted for future use.
Wish I had that quip in my arsenal at my last job which involved
training students in troubleshooting audio/video equipment.
The was always the temptation to break into a machine or reach for test
equipment...
when 80 percent of the time, the darn thing just wasn't plugged in. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
> On Feb 21, 1:32 pm, Larry Jaques<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
>> wrote:
>>
>>> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>>
>>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>>
>>> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
>>> but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
>>> words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
>>> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
>>> the miter gauge will never change but...
>>
>> Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
>> cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
>> shots, even with my computer glasses on. ;)
>>
>> --
>> "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
>> -- Clarence Darrow
>
> yes, that was a problem. It's not really glare, but the quality of
> the camera. When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my
> gauge and square was out of frame. I either needed a high def camera
> or a second camera that was zoomed in. On my computer I CAN see the
> dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. I did
> my best with what I have.
Better camera won't help the particular problem. If you watch your
video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much
clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. Also if you look
closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what
photographers call "blown highlights". If your camera has exposure
control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will
be clearer. Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your
lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it.
If you haven't read
<http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240808193/ref=pd_sim_b_8>
you might find it very worthwhile.
In article <[email protected]>, Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>Father Haskell wrote:
>
>
>>
>> This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
>> miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
>> to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
>> #8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
>>
>> That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
>> 18" Starrett combo square.
>
>If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
>would be a wider kerf.
And tooth marks on the work.
On 2/21/2010 2:58 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, Nova<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Father Haskell wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
>>> miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached
>>> to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a
>>> #8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
>>>
>>> That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my
>>> 18" Starrett combo square.
>>
>> If the blade isn't exactly parallel to the miter slot the only result
>> would be a wider kerf.
>
> And tooth marks on the work.
And a kerf that's *curved* according to the amount of skew.
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
In article <[email protected]>,
Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front
>edge of the table. To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting
>the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the
>table's edge and lock it down.
Ditto. I find it almost inconceivable* that the edge of the table
wouldn't be square enough to the slot for any woodworking I'm
likely to be doing.
(*Yes, it does mean what I think it means)
--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
>
> When I finished, I'd spent over a couple hours fiddling with something I
> didn't even think I needed to improve upon. Man, was I wrong. When I put
> in a good combo Freud blade and started ripping and crosscutting, the
> difference was quite apparent. A crosscut board would lie where it was
> cut while the saw powered down, and particularly- a ripped board on
> either side of the blade stayed put until I shut the saw down. It stayed
> there without a quiver.
I did much the same with my Powermatic. I set it up real carefully (I
thought) when it was new. Last week I came across a dial gauge at a
garage sale and bought it. I spent 2 or 3 hours setting up my saw with it.
After all these years, I don't remember exactly how much it was out, but
I got the slots parallel to the blade within 1 mil front to back. I got
the fence better aligned as well.
I am totally impressed with the difference. I use a WW II blade, which I
complained about on this message board a couple of years ago. Now it is
cutting just like some of you said. I can't tell which edge came from
the saw and which from the jointer.
If you haven't checked your table saw with a gauge, you are not set up
optimum, INHO.
Harvey
In article <[email protected]>, "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>For example, the phrase "Do unto others as ye would have them do unto thee"
>was once enshrined as "Don't be evil" until earlier texts were found. You
>can Google it.
Hillel is reputed to have said "What you wish not done to you, do not to
others. This is the whole of the Law; all the rest is commentary."
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 20:14:02 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
I said:
>> Done. Ahh, much better. The dial is quite readable, but the picture
>> is still blown out (your hand has pure white spots on top, etc.)
>
>Thanks. Looks like I need to read-up a little.
Ayup.
>> Lowered light levels would help your $20 Chiwanese camera a bit. <vbg>
>>
>> BTW, I've never even seen a thickarse square like that. Where'd you
>> find it? Is it aluminum or steel?
>
>Ed Bennett. Can't go wrong with Ed. High quality, awesome customer
>service:
>
>http://www.ts-aligner.com/accessories.htm
My crowbars are in tears tonight because of you and Ed, Brian. They
couldn't even _budge_ my tight little wallet.
--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks
wrote:
> A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>
> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
> but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
> words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
> the miter gauge will never change but...
Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I
cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset
shots, even with my computer glasses on. ;)
--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
<[email protected]> wrote:
>s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
>> to accomplish properly in my opinion.
>
>You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
>mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.
Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
a solution. :)
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:24:56 -0500, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Any saw that doesn't have _some_ means of aligning the blade is a piece of
>crap.
You're probably right. Fortunately, it's a problem I've never come
across.
GarageWoodworks <[email protected]> writes:
> On Feb 21, 11:52Â am, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the
>> >miter slot.
>>
>> That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to
>> align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get
>> go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into
>> the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never
>> investigated.
>>
>> The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to
>> shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot
>> so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
>> to accomplish properly in my opinion.
>
> You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
> mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.
Or use a PALS which allows you to precisely move the trunion bolts via a
pair of allen screws rather than repeatedly wacking with a mallet.
Very useful in my experience. I was able to adjust my 20 year old
Craftsman table saw to within 1 thousandth that way...
[email protected] (Doug Miller) writes:
> In article <[email protected]>, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> We ought to be looking for horses
>>> not zebras.
>>>
>>> Joe G
>>
>>Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
>
> Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In other
> words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple explanations before
> unusual or exotic ones.
Often heard in medical school and residency programs with reference to
differential diagnosis of a patients signs & symptoms -- i.e., think of
common things first, not oddities. For example, if an otherwise healthy
patient comes in complaining of a cough, think common cold and not some
obscure form of lung cancer...
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 20:37:31 -0700, the infamous "Max"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
>>
>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
>>
>> I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method,
>> but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand
>> words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this
>> and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and
>> the miter gauge will never change but...
>
>This has always worked well for me.
>http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/MiterGauge#5440906371837086402
Youbetcha.
--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow
GarageWoodworks wrote:
> On Feb 21, 2:14 pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>, -MIKE-
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> We ought to be looking for horses
>>>> not zebras.
>>
>>>> Joe G
>>
>>> Wow, ok..... never heard that one. Enlighten me, please.
>>
>> Full quote: "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras." In
>> other
>> words, when faced with a problem, look for common, simple
>> explanations before
>> unusual or exotic ones.
>
> Aka Occam's razor
There's at least one exception to Occam's Razor. In the exegesis of Biblical
texts, when faced with two differing renditions, scholars have learned that
the more convoluted and complicated of the two is usually the more correct
version. It seems that, during manifold copying, the ancient scribes
sometimes tried to simplify a text by rewording it.
For example, the phrase "Do unto others as ye would have them do unto thee"
was once enshrined as "Don't be evil" until earlier texts were found. You
can Google it.
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 09:48:21 -0800 (PST), the infamous Robatoy
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Feb 21, 12:39 pm, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:54:45 -0800 (PST), GarageWoodworks
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >s parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult
>> >> to accomplish properly in my opinion.
>>
>> >You would have to loosen the table from underneath and wack with a
>> >mallet until aligned. Re-tighten bolts.
>>
>> Good idea. Guess I wasn't thinking big enough when trying to think of
>> a solution. :)
>
>If your trunion assembly is attached to the bottom of your table, that
>method won't work.
Right, so loosen the trunnion bolts and move it instead. Same/same.
--
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow
"Edward A. Falk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Nova <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the
>>front
>>edge of the table. To square the gauge it's a simple matter of
>>putting
>>the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to
>>the
>>table's edge and lock it down.
>
> Ditto. I find it almost inconceivable* that the edge of the
> table
> wouldn't be square enough to the slot for any woodworking I'm
> likely to be doing.
>
> (*Yes, it does mean what I think it means)
It's probably square enough for most people doing routine work,
but the question is whether the slot is parallel to the blade.
That's what is important, IMHO. Ed's excellent TS aligner was
sent to a few of us to "test" back in the late 80's or early 90's.
I'd been pretty happy with my PM66 with Beismeyer fence, but went
the whole yard and did the setup using the TS Aligner. I don't
recall how much out of parallel the slot was, but I DID need to
correct it, and that involved loosening the top and moving it to
parallel the blade.
FWIW, The blade itself was home made for the occasion, using a 10"
plywood blade that I'd run against a right angle grinder to first
remove the teeth set and then round.
When I finished, I'd spent over a couple hours fiddling with
something I didn't even think I needed to improve upon. Man, was
I wrong. When I put in a good combo Freud blade and started
ripping and crosscutting, the difference was quite apparent. A
crosscut board would lie where it was cut while the saw powered
down, and particularly- a ripped board on either side of the blade
stayed put until I shut the saw down. It stayed there without a
quiver.
I then moved to my RAS. That was a bigger PITA, but again well
worth the time I spent.
Ed made me return his TS Aligner, and I swore that if I ever again
needed to set up a device like a saw or RAS, I'd spring to buy one
in a New York minute.
--
Nonny
Luxury cars now offer a Republican seating option. These are
seats which blow heated air onto your backside in the winter
and cooled air in the summer. If they were democrat car seats,
they would just blow smoke up your rump year-round.