I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
The pattern is at
http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
I'll be making four of them. I want the curvy part to be nice and clean,
and I could use suggestions on how to cut that curve so it looks
"professional."
The tools I have are a router, a handheld saber (jig) saw, some
sandpaper, and a tin of Cloverdale brand Elbow Grease.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:
You can't have everything. Where would you put it?
-- Steven Wright
------------------------------------
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
> hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
> work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
>
> The pattern is at
> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
>
> I'll be making four of them. I want the curvy part to be nice and clean,
> and I could use suggestions on how to cut that curve so it looks
> "professional."
>
> The tools I have are a router, a handheld saber (jig) saw, some sandpaper,
> and a tin of Cloverdale brand Elbow Grease.
>
> --
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
> KG6RCR
> ------------------------------------
> Today's Deep Thought:
>
> You can't have everything. Where would you put it?
> -- Steven Wright
> ------------------------------------
I'd make them out of real wood. I'd cut the curves with a saber saw or a
coping saw. I would clean up the curves with a spoke shave. A spoke shave
can be purchased in the neighborhood of $30.
Just my 2 ¢. :-)
Hey Mike,
I have a couple of suggestions here.
First, trace this pattern onto a small piece of luan plywood (it's
approx. 1/8" thick) and use it as a pattern to trace onto all of the
pieces of material that you need. Next, cut them out with the sabre saw
and be prepared to spend some time sanding.
Second, trace this pattern onto the luan as mentioned above, and then
place a router bit into your router. With the router turned OFF, slowly
trace the outside edge of the router base as you move the router along
the edge of the pattern's profile. This will give you a template to use
so that you can clamp it to the material and cut out the pieces using
your router. You may want to use a large enough piece of luan to give
you room to clamp.
Hope this helps,
Paul
Hi Mike:
I suggest you make one piece by cutting it out with your saber saw and
sanding to shape. Then, use a bearing-guided router bit in your router
to duplicate that shape on other pieces after roughing them out with
the saber saw. You may want to start with a pattern made from
something thinner, like 1/4" plywood to reduce the time spent sanding
to final shape, and use this pattern to make all the pieces. If you
think you'll be making more of these later, having a pattern already on
hand will save you lots of time.
Regards,
John.
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
> I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms"
that
> hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
> work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
>
> The pattern is at
> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
>
> I'll be making four of them. I want the curvy part to be nice and
clean,
> and I could use suggestions on how to cut that curve so it looks
> "professional."
>
> The tools I have are a router, a handheld saber (jig) saw, some
> sandpaper, and a tin of Cloverdale brand Elbow Grease.
>
> --
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
> KG6RCR
> ------------------------------------
> Today's Deep Thought:
>
> You can't have everything. Where would you put it?
> -- Steven Wright
> ------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
>
> > I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
> > hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
> > work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
> <snip>
>
> I like to make patterns using 1/4" hardboard for this kind of job.
>
> It's low cost, easy to work, and holds a good edge for the bearing of a
> router pattern bit to follow.
>
> BTW, don't have a pattern bit, use a collar and a straight bit.
>
> Layout the pattern on the hard board, then trim proud with the saber saw.
>
> The easiest way to clean up an inside radius shown on the piece would be a
> drum sander, say 2" dia, and a drill press, followed by some hand sanding.
>
> Don't have a drill press, maybe a neighbor might be able to help.
I'm with Lew, though I think that the 1/4" floor underlayment made with five
pieces of birch veneer is a better template material than even tempered
masonite. Use of the collar allows trimming with a spiral bit, with the
extra smooth that shear cutting can bring.
Not that it will work for you, but after years of using the kids as my
drill-press oscillators, I had SWMBO help me on a project with a lot of
curved pieces. After an hour, she gave permission for purchase of my JET
spindle sander....
On 12/27/2004 7:42 PM Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
>
>
>>It does, it does -- thank you.
>
>
> A little tip.
>
> After you have formed the pieces with your router, install an 1/8" or even a
> 1/4", rounding over bit and break the sharp edges.
Gonna. Tnx.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/27/2004 6:56 PM Bullwinkle J. Moose wrote:
> Rocky, try looking at the regular old pine boards. Pick out a decent one,
> yes they can be found for something that small, and cut between the knots.
> Or Look on the other side of the aisle and pick you out a good looking #1
> pine board. I've made some good looking smaller stuff out of them. From both
> HD and Lowe's I might add. It's not like your making furniture, YET!!!
>
And a darn good thing, too. I measure twice and cut once. Still get it
wrong. Sit in any chair I build ONLY after making sure your medical
insurance is in order.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/27/2004 7:16 PM Mike Marlow wrote:
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On 12/27/2004 1:27 PM Mike Marlow wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Lots of other folks have suggested good techniques for making and using
>
> a
>
>>>pattern so I won't repeat them, only echo them. I will however, suggest
>
> a
>
>>>better material than MDF. My opinion of MDF is rather low and I
>
> consider it
>
>>>to be good for nothing more than kindling material. It is not hard
>
> enough
>
>>>to stand up to typical knocks and bumps, does not really take screws or
>>>other fasteners in such a way as to be strong once screwed together, and
>>>it's really nasty about soaking up moisture. I consider MDF to be a
>
> curse
>
>>>upon the woodworking world. Having said that, for what you're doing a
>
> nice
>
>>>hardwood will not break the bank and you'll end up with a much nicer
>
> piece.
>
>>Good points. While I'm waiting for the pattern bit to arrive from
>>Rockler I can hunt wood. Nearby, no one sells much in the way of
>>hardwoods. At HD there is a selection of maple or poplar*. Painted,
>>would either of these woods fill the bill? Yah, there are less-expensive
>>places than HD but not around me, near as I can tell (San Diego
>>[California] coastal north county). I could range out farther if neither
>>of these two woods are good-to-great choices.
>>
>
>
> If you're set on painting it, then I'd go with the poplar. If you're not
> really decided on painting it and are considering a stained or oiled finish,
> then I'd go with the maple, or cherry or... if you really want to get
> lai.... ummmm,... impress the better half, then go with walnut and a nice
> oil rub. Any one of those alternatives will be much better than MDF.
The painting fits the '20's look we're after for the bathroom.
There will be some stained and topcoated bits of "real wood" in the
bathroom -- a shelf, the drawer fronts and cabinet door front on the
vanity are some kind of white plastic. Gotta replace those with wood.
I'll asking all kinds of pesky questions when I start that phase of the
project. Have to transfer the Euro hinges from the old white door to the
new wood door . . . and they have to line up and work! Makes my head
spin just to think of it.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
Rocky, try looking at the regular old pine boards. Pick out a decent one,
yes they can be found for something that small, and cut between the knots.
Or Look on the other side of the aisle and pick you out a good looking #1
pine board. I've made some good looking smaller stuff out of them. From both
HD and Lowe's I might add. It's not like your making furniture, YET!!!
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 12/27/2004 6:08 PM Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
> > "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
> >
> >
> >>At HD there is a selection of maple or poplar*. Painted,
> >>would either of these woods fill the bill? Yah, there are less-expensive
> >>places than HD but not around me, near as I can tell (San Diego
> >>[California] coastal north county). I could range out farther if neither
> >>of these two woods are good-to-great choices.
> >
> >
> > First thinks first. as far as wood for a project is concerned, take your
> > choice, both Lowes and Home Depot are in the garbage business.
> >
> > If you can't find a decent supplier in San Diego, then you haven't
gotten
> > out from your computer, and looked around.
> >
> > There are several.
> >
>
> All right, all right. Jeepers. Try to do something poorly, and everyone
> is on your case! ;-)
>
> What would be a good wood for this job? It will be painted.
>
> --
>
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
> KG6RCR
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott writes:
> (Thanks for the suggestion on how to clean up the inside radius. I do
> have a drill press. Sounds like a good way to go.)
You have it made in the shade.
You made a comment about your capabilities with a saber saw.
I consider a saber saw strictly a "roughing" tool. Cut out each piece
allowing about 1/4" of material for the router to clean.
BTW, IMHO, you are totally wasting your time and money trying to use MDF for
this application.
MDF for the shelf, well OK, but not the supports.
Consider using something like 3/4", 13 ply, cabinet birch ply. which would
look good natural, if you decided not to paint.
HTH
Lew
Hi Rocky!!! Welcome!!!!
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 12/27/2004 12:42 PM Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>
> > "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> >
> >>I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
> >>hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
> >>work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
> >>
> >>The pattern is at
> >>http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
> >
> >
> > Forget the other suggestions. There is only one proper way to do this.
An
> > 18" Laguna (or equal) bandsaw.
> > Maybe, just maybe, you can squeak by with a 14" Delta with riser block.
> >
> > But the bandsaw. Your wife will appreciate the towel racks. Honest,
you
> > can trust me.
> >
>
> LOL! You know, if there is ONE thing I don't need to be encourage to do,
> buying new tools is it!
>
> Hi, my name is Rocky and I am a toolaholic.
>
> --
> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
> 71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
> 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
> KG6RCR
On 12/27/2004 8:53 AM Guess who wrote:
> On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 07:34:30 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
>>hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
>>work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
>>
>>The pattern is at
>>http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
>>
>>I'll be making four of them. I want the curvy part to be nice and clean,
>>and I could use suggestions on how to cut that curve so it looks
>>"professional."
>>
>>The tools I have are a router, a handheld saber (jig) saw, some
>>sandpaper, and a tin of Cloverdale brand Elbow Grease.
>
>
> I was going to suggest "carefully" ...and that's still true.
>
> Cut away most of the material in a rough-cut. if oyu feel it's
> necessary make further straight line-cuts up to the mark [well, real
> close.] All the material stress is gone, and you just have to have a
> steady hand to finish with a final clean no-stress cut by jig-saw to
> the line [or *really* close]. Then finish by sanding by hand and
> sanding block. The block keeps the paper straight. otherwise you see
> slight bends here and there as the hand/finger pressure changes.
>
> Or, you can make a jig and use a router.
>
As John and Paul have helpfully suggested, the pattern/router approach
can give good results. I like the idea of making the template from thin
stock, to make sanding easier. I reckon a "pattern bit" for the router
-- a straight bit with a guide wheel that sits between the business end
and the router motor -- will work just peachy. The tricky part, as I see
it, will be sorting out how to clamp the template and work piece prior
to routing. After that, it appears to be a fairly straight-ahead procedure.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 16:27:50 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >My opinion of MDF is rather low and I consider it
> >to be good for nothing more than kindling material.
>
>
> never tried to burn it, have you?
Actually, now that you ask... no. I guess, given that it's nothing more
than ant shit and glue, it probably wouldn't really burn all that well.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 12/27/2004 1:27 PM Mike Marlow wrote:
> Lots of other folks have suggested good techniques for making and using a
> pattern so I won't repeat them, only echo them. I will however, suggest a
> better material than MDF. My opinion of MDF is rather low and I consider it
> to be good for nothing more than kindling material. It is not hard enough
> to stand up to typical knocks and bumps, does not really take screws or
> other fasteners in such a way as to be strong once screwed together, and
> it's really nasty about soaking up moisture. I consider MDF to be a curse
> upon the woodworking world. Having said that, for what you're doing a nice
> hardwood will not break the bank and you'll end up with a much nicer piece.
Good points. While I'm waiting for the pattern bit to arrive from
Rockler I can hunt wood. Nearby, no one sells much in the way of
hardwoods. At HD there is a selection of maple or poplar*. Painted,
would either of these woods fill the bill? Yah, there are less-expensive
places than HD but not around me, near as I can tell (San Diego
[California] coastal north county). I could range out farther if neither
of these two woods are good-to-great choices.
*Which is more than my Lowes has -- if it ain't douglas fir or redwood,
they ain't got it.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/27/2004 12:42 PM Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
>
>>I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
>>hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
>>work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
>>
>>The pattern is at
>>http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
>
>
> Forget the other suggestions. There is only one proper way to do this. An
> 18" Laguna (or equal) bandsaw.
> Maybe, just maybe, you can squeak by with a 14" Delta with riser block.
>
> But the bandsaw. Your wife will appreciate the towel racks. Honest, you
> can trust me.
>
LOL! You know, if there is ONE thing I don't need to be encourage to do,
buying new tools is it!
Hi, my name is Rocky and I am a toolaholic.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/27/2004 3:46 PM George wrote:
> Not that it will work for you, but after years of using the kids as my
> drill-press oscillators, I had SWMBO help me on a project with a lot of
> curved pieces. After an hour, she gave permission for purchase of my JET
> spindle sander....
>
Oh ho, the old "if I don't get my toy I'll work you like a mule" ploy.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 09:18:28 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote:
My main point, Mike was to remove the bulk of material with a
jigsaw/scrollsaw/bandsaw, then attend to the remainder. With little
to remove, and a steady hand, the jig saw with a good blade will get
close enough to allow for little sanding. I'd do a template if I was
fitting together as in a jig-saw puzzle or doing a larger length, such
as the S-curved sides and front of the oak sofa-table I did. Like
they say, nobody will see the difference in that short length and its
location when driving by at 40.
I'll get smoked by the people with their complete set of computerised
micrometers, but the best advice I was given a long long time back by
an old craftsman who built the bedroom furniture we enjoy to this day
was, "You can cut a line too straight.". He meant, without going
overboard about it, it can have a little character that adds, rather
than detracts.
>
>As John and Paul have helpfully suggested, the pattern/router approach
>can give good results. I like the idea of making the template from thin
>stock, to make sanding easier. I reckon a "pattern bit" for the router
>-- a straight bit with a guide wheel that sits between the business end
>and the router motor -- will work just peachy. The tricky part, as I see
>it, will be sorting out how to clamp the template and work piece prior
>to routing. After that, it appears to be a fairly straight-ahead procedure.
On 12/27/2004 6:40 PM Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
>
>>All right, all right. Jeepers. Try to do something poorly, and everyone
>>is on your case! ;-)
>>
>>What would be a good wood for this job? It will be painted.
>
>
> Where I come from, another name for Poplar is "Paint wood".
>
> Easy to machine, takes paint well.
>
> Just don't leave it unprotected, as in no paint.
>
> HTH
It does, it does -- thank you.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 12:29:03 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 12/27/2004 10:25 AM Guess who wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 09:18:28 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> My main point, Mike was to remove the bulk of material with a
>> jigsaw/scrollsaw/bandsaw, then attend to the remainder. With little
>> to remove, and a steady hand, the jig saw with a good blade will get
>> close enough to allow for little sanding.
>
>You speak as someone who obviously has better skills with a jigsaw than
>I!
I doubt it. Perhaps I don't expect as much? As my aged father used
to tell me, "Son, always let the tool do the work." Most people push
way too hard; same when sawing with a hand saw. Same with sex, I hear
as well.
On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 16:27:50 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>My opinion of MDF is rather low and I consider it
>to be good for nothing more than kindling material.
never tried to burn it, have you?
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
> hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
> work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
>
> The pattern is at
> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
>
> I'll be making four of them. I want the curvy part to be nice and clean,
> and I could use suggestions on how to cut that curve so it looks
> "professional."
>
> The tools I have are a router, a handheld saber (jig) saw, some
> sandpaper, and a tin of Cloverdale brand Elbow Grease.
Mike:
Lots of other folks have suggested good techniques for making and using a
pattern so I won't repeat them, only echo them. I will however, suggest a
better material than MDF. My opinion of MDF is rather low and I consider it
to be good for nothing more than kindling material. It is not hard enough
to stand up to typical knocks and bumps, does not really take screws or
other fasteners in such a way as to be strong once screwed together, and
it's really nasty about soaking up moisture. I consider MDF to be a curse
upon the woodworking world. Having said that, for what you're doing a nice
hardwood will not break the bank and you'll end up with a much nicer piece.
Just my two cents worth.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
> It does, it does -- thank you.
A little tip.
After you have formed the pieces with your router, install an 1/8" or even a
1/4", rounding over bit and break the sharp edges.
Not only will it look good, but the paint won't have to try to protect a
sharp corner, which it can't for long.
HTH
Lew
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 12/27/2004 1:27 PM Mike Marlow wrote:
>
> > Lots of other folks have suggested good techniques for making and using
a
> > pattern so I won't repeat them, only echo them. I will however, suggest
a
> > better material than MDF. My opinion of MDF is rather low and I
consider it
> > to be good for nothing more than kindling material. It is not hard
enough
> > to stand up to typical knocks and bumps, does not really take screws or
> > other fasteners in such a way as to be strong once screwed together, and
> > it's really nasty about soaking up moisture. I consider MDF to be a
curse
> > upon the woodworking world. Having said that, for what you're doing a
nice
> > hardwood will not break the bank and you'll end up with a much nicer
piece.
>
> Good points. While I'm waiting for the pattern bit to arrive from
> Rockler I can hunt wood. Nearby, no one sells much in the way of
> hardwoods. At HD there is a selection of maple or poplar*. Painted,
> would either of these woods fill the bill? Yah, there are less-expensive
> places than HD but not around me, near as I can tell (San Diego
> [California] coastal north county). I could range out farther if neither
> of these two woods are good-to-great choices.
>
If you're set on painting it, then I'd go with the poplar. If you're not
really decided on painting it and are considering a stained or oiled finish,
then I'd go with the maple, or cherry or... if you really want to get
lai.... ummmm,... impress the better half, then go with walnut and a nice
oil rub. Any one of those alternatives will be much better than MDF.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
> hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
> work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
>
> The pattern is at
> http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
Forget the other suggestions. There is only one proper way to do this. An
18" Laguna (or equal) bandsaw.
Maybe, just maybe, you can squeak by with a 14" Delta with riser block.
But the bandsaw. Your wife will appreciate the towel racks. Honest, you
can trust me.
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
> All right, all right. Jeepers. Try to do something poorly, and everyone
> is on your case! ;-)
>
> What would be a good wood for this job? It will be painted.
Where I come from, another name for Poplar is "Paint wood".
Easy to machine, takes paint well.
Just don't leave it unprotected, as in no paint.
HTH
Lew
On 12/27/2004 11:16 AM Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
>
>
>>I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
>>hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
>>work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
>
> <snip>
>
> I like to make patterns using 1/4" hardboard for this kind of job.
>
> It's low cost, easy to work, and holds a good edge for the bearing of a
> router pattern bit to follow.
>
> BTW, don't have a pattern bit, use a collar and a straight bit.
>
> Layout the pattern on the hard board, then trim proud with the saber saw.
>
> The easiest way to clean up an inside radius shown on the piece would be a
> drum sander, say 2" dia, and a drill press, followed by some hand sanding.
>
> Don't have a drill press, maybe a neighbor might be able to help.
"George, can you give me a hand here?"
"Well, I guess so, Rocky. What do I need to do?"
"Turn this little drum sander thingy around real fast for a few minutes."
<neighbor stares at me for a few moments then starts backing out of the
garage>
(Thanks for the suggestion on how to clean up the inside radius. I do
have a drill press. Sounds like a good way to go.)
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:
Seen on a toilet wall:
"HEISENBERG MAY HAVE BEEN HERE"
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On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 07:34:30 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
>hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
>work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
>
>The pattern is at
>http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
>
>I'll be making four of them. I want the curvy part to be nice and clean,
>and I could use suggestions on how to cut that curve so it looks
>"professional."
>
>The tools I have are a router, a handheld saber (jig) saw, some
>sandpaper, and a tin of Cloverdale brand Elbow Grease.
I was going to suggest "carefully" ...and that's still true.
Cut away most of the material in a rough-cut. if oyu feel it's
necessary make further straight line-cuts up to the mark [well, real
close.] All the material stress is gone, and you just have to have a
steady hand to finish with a final clean no-stress cut by jig-saw to
the line [or *really* close]. Then finish by sanding by hand and
sanding block. The block keeps the paper straight. otherwise you see
slight bends here and there as the hand/finger pressure changes.
Or, you can make a jig and use a router.
On 12/27/2004 10:01 AM Lowell Holmes wrote:
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
>>hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
>>work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
>>
>>The pattern is at
>>http://users.adelphia.net/~elliottfamily/House/towel_rack.gif
>>
>>I'll be making four of them. I want the curvy part to be nice and clean,
>>and I could use suggestions on how to cut that curve so it looks
>>"professional."
>>
>>The tools I have are a router, a handheld saber (jig) saw, some sandpaper,
>>and a tin of Cloverdale brand Elbow Grease.
>>
>>--
>>Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
>>71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
>>84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
>>KG6RCR
>>------------------------------------
>>Today's Deep Thought:
>>
>>You can't have everything. Where would you put it?
>> -- Steven Wright
>>------------------------------------
>
>
> I'd make them out of real wood. I'd cut the curves with a saber saw or a
> coping saw. I would clean up the curves with a spoke shave. A spoke shave
> can be purchased in the neighborhood of $30.
I've seen folks use those tools. They appear to be fast and efficient.
The tools, I mean. I can't comment on the folks.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/27/2004 6:08 PM Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
>
>
>>At HD there is a selection of maple or poplar*. Painted,
>>would either of these woods fill the bill? Yah, there are less-expensive
>>places than HD but not around me, near as I can tell (San Diego
>>[California] coastal north county). I could range out farther if neither
>>of these two woods are good-to-great choices.
>
>
> First thinks first. as far as wood for a project is concerned, take your
> choice, both Lowes and Home Depot are in the garbage business.
>
> If you can't find a decent supplier in San Diego, then you haven't gotten
> out from your computer, and looked around.
>
> There are several.
>
All right, all right. Jeepers. Try to do something poorly, and everyone
is on your case! ;-)
What would be a good wood for this job? It will be painted.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
On 12/27/2004 10:25 AM Guess who wrote:
> On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 09:18:28 -0800, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> My main point, Mike was to remove the bulk of material with a
> jigsaw/scrollsaw/bandsaw, then attend to the remainder. With little
> to remove, and a steady hand, the jig saw with a good blade will get
> close enough to allow for little sanding.
You speak as someone who obviously has better skills with a jigsaw than
I! Despite that I was taught how to use one when I was a kid by my
father, and despite that I've always owned one and have it for for
various projects my whole adult life, I know better than to try to cut
four curves like that by hand -- I'd have to spend the next several
years looking at my lousy jigsawmanship at close range every time I went
into the bathroom to use the facilities.
Nope. I know my limitations.
But with a clean template, a sharp router bit, and enough clamps to keep
everything in one place, even I will be able to do a job that will pass
close inspection.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
> I'll be fabricating some towel racks for our bathroom. The "arms" that
> hold the bar will be made of 3/4'' stock -- MDF or something easy to
> work -- and painted. They are pretty simple.
<snip>
I like to make patterns using 1/4" hardboard for this kind of job.
It's low cost, easy to work, and holds a good edge for the bearing of a
router pattern bit to follow.
BTW, don't have a pattern bit, use a collar and a straight bit.
Layout the pattern on the hard board, then trim proud with the saber saw.
The easiest way to clean up an inside radius shown on the piece would be a
drum sander, say 2" dia, and a drill press, followed by some hand sanding.
Don't have a drill press, maybe a neighbor might be able to help.
HTH
Lew
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" writes:
>At HD there is a selection of maple or poplar*. Painted,
> would either of these woods fill the bill? Yah, there are less-expensive
> places than HD but not around me, near as I can tell (San Diego
> [California] coastal north county). I could range out farther if neither
> of these two woods are good-to-great choices.
First thinks first. as far as wood for a project is concerned, take your
choice, both Lowes and Home Depot are in the garbage business.
If you can't find a decent supplier in San Diego, then you haven't gotten
out from your computer, and looked around.
There are several.
If you can't find any, stop by Knight & Carver sometime and drool while you
find out who they use for suppliers.
As a matter of info, Knight & Carver is a yacht builder who has been in San
Diego for many years.
If you have to ask, like me, you can't afford, but they are still very nice
folks.
HTH
Lew