My first project is a round table top. I have researched the group's past
postings on direction of cut with a router, but still am not sure for my
situation. I would appreciate some knowledgeable help.
Table diameter after cutting will be 46 inches. The table rim is mahogany,
approx. 1.75 inches thick; the mahogany is glued and splined in a hexagon
shape from pieces that are about 5 inches wide. The grain on each piece is
fairly straight. I have made a 2 by 6 stretcher that forms a diameter
inside the hexagon, and have a 0.25 inch carriage bolt protruding from the
center of the stretcher for my pivot. My router is restrained by two 0.375
inch-diameter steel rods through the router base to the pivot. The bit is a
0.5 inch diameter, with two straight flutes.
I would like to climb-cut to minimize tearout. I believe the trammel is
strong enough to keep the router in check. However, the bit with be
partially exposed (about a quarter inch) as I hit the mid-point of each of
the hexagon's sides. Will this cause any problems? I know to make multiple
passes, increasing depth each time, but I'm not sure of the effect of the
bit coming partially out on each side.
Thanks for your help.
Bob
To help simplify this it is running the router Backwards
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 03 Nov 2003 17:38:08 -0500, Ehvee8or <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Apparently I'm an even greater newbie than the OP. What's a climb cut
> >and why would I want to use one?
>
> Dangerous, and you wouldn't want to.
>
>
> Replace the wheels of your car with big sawblades and drive along.
> That's a climb cut. As you might imagine, there's quite a force
> generated to drive the saw along relative to the road/workpiece.
>
> It's safer to feed the other way. The workpiece is pushed back at you,
> and you both oppose this and feed it by pushing in the same direction.
> Things are under control.
>
> Climb cutting is hazardous, because you're either pushing the feed in
> one direction or restraining it from leaping ahead of you. As you
> feed, and as the cut changes, then the force you need to apply changes
> direction. This is always somewhat hazardous.
>
> Climb cutting is really only done (for hand tools and woodworking)
> with routers and small cutters. For saws and planers, it's just far
> too hazardous. No-one likes doing it, but it can reduce break-out
> when working across the grain, especially when you reach the end of a
> cross-grain edge.
>
> --
> Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Apparently I'm an even greater newbie than the OP. What's a climb cut
and why would I want to use one?
Thanx
On Mon, 03 Nov 2003 04:15:34 GMT, "Bob McCoy" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>My first project is a round table top. I have researched the group's past
>postings on direction of cut with a router, but still am not sure for my
>situation. I would appreciate some knowledgeable help.
>
>Table diameter after cutting will be 46 inches. The table rim is mahogany,
>approx. 1.75 inches thick; the mahogany is glued and splined in a hexagon
>shape from pieces that are about 5 inches wide. The grain on each piece is
>fairly straight. I have made a 2 by 6 stretcher that forms a diameter
>inside the hexagon, and have a 0.25 inch carriage bolt protruding from the
>center of the stretcher for my pivot. My router is restrained by two 0.375
>inch-diameter steel rods through the router base to the pivot. The bit is a
>0.5 inch diameter, with two straight flutes.
>
>I would like to climb-cut to minimize tearout. I believe the trammel is
>strong enough to keep the router in check. However, the bit with be
>partially exposed (about a quarter inch) as I hit the mid-point of each of
>the hexagon's sides. Will this cause any problems? I know to make multiple
>passes, increasing depth each time, but I'm not sure of the effect of the
>bit coming partially out on each side.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Bob
>
>
>
>
>
The problem with climb cutting is that you are cutting in the same direction
as the cutter is trying to pull the router. Holding the router back against
its urge to jump forward is tricky and not recommended in most cases. The
spiral bits ill help from a finish standpoint but will be the same as strait
bits in their propensity to pull the router forward. That said, climb
cutting is considerably more efficient. Smoother cuts with virtually no
tendency to tear out, better chip ejection and far better cutter life
result. Unfortunately, for the majority of routing, climb cutting is only
practical on machines (such as CNC routers) that have backlash control.
"Erik Ahrens" <erikl_nospam_@_nospam_syserco.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CW, thinking about it is how I came up with the suggestion. Considering
I've
> had my router for two months, I thought I was contributing an idea no one
> else brought up. If you would be so kind as to elaborate on the 'think
about
> it', I would be most grateful for the wisdom and advise. I don't want to
> wear my router anytime soon 8~).
>
> Regards, Erik
>
>
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:zfiqb.87317$9E1.442057@attbi_s52...
> > Won't help. Think about it.
> >
> >
> > "Erik Ahrens" <erikl_nospam_@_nospam_syserco.com> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > How about using a spiral up cut bit instead of the 2-flute. It tends
to
> > pull
> > > it self downwards (I think). Or is it the down cut spiral?
> > >
> > > Erik
> > >
> > >
> > > "Bob McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:GDkpb.66489$mZ5.413601@attbi_s54...
> > > > My first project is a round table top. I have researched the group's
> > past
> > > > postings on direction of cut with a router, but still am not sure
for
> my
> > > > situation. I would appreciate some knowledgeable help.
> > > >
> > > > Table diameter after cutting will be 46 inches. The table rim is
> > mahogany,
> > > > approx. 1.75 inches thick; the mahogany is glued and splined in a
> > hexagon
> > > > shape from pieces that are about 5 inches wide. The grain on each
> piece
> > > is
> > > > fairly straight. I have made a 2 by 6 stretcher that forms a
diameter
> > > > inside the hexagon, and have a 0.25 inch carriage bolt protruding
from
> > the
> > > > center of the stretcher for my pivot. My router is restrained by
two
> > > 0.375
> > > > inch-diameter steel rods through the router base to the pivot. The
> bit
> > is
> > > a
> > > > 0.5 inch diameter, with two straight flutes.
> > > >
> > > > I would like to climb-cut to minimize tearout. I believe the
trammel
> is
> > > > strong enough to keep the router in check. However, the bit with be
> > > > partially exposed (about a quarter inch) as I hit the mid-point of
> each
> > of
> > > > the hexagon's sides. Will this cause any problems? I know to make
> > > multiple
> > > > passes, increasing depth each time, but I'm not sure of the effect
of
> > the
> > > > bit coming partially out on each side.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for your help.
> > > >
> > > > Bob
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
By increasing the cutting depth in increments climb cutting isn't necessary
to avoid tear out and does the job with far less chance of the router
running away from you.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Bob McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:GDkpb.66489$mZ5.413601@attbi_s54...
> My first project is a round table top. I have researched the group's past
> postings on direction of cut with a router, but still am not sure for my
> situation. I would appreciate some knowledgeable help.
>
> Table diameter after cutting will be 46 inches. The table rim is mahogany,
> approx. 1.75 inches thick; the mahogany is glued and splined in a hexagon
> shape from pieces that are about 5 inches wide. The grain on each piece
is
> fairly straight. I have made a 2 by 6 stretcher that forms a diameter
> inside the hexagon, and have a 0.25 inch carriage bolt protruding from the
> center of the stretcher for my pivot. My router is restrained by two
0.375
> inch-diameter steel rods through the router base to the pivot. The bit is
a
> 0.5 inch diameter, with two straight flutes.
>
> I would like to climb-cut to minimize tearout. I believe the trammel is
> strong enough to keep the router in check. However, the bit with be
> partially exposed (about a quarter inch) as I hit the mid-point of each of
> the hexagon's sides. Will this cause any problems? I know to make
multiple
> passes, increasing depth each time, but I'm not sure of the effect of the
> bit coming partially out on each side.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
Climb cutting is more efficient for cutting any material. machine rigidity
and fixturing are often a limitation though.
"John Thompson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> FWIW, in the metal trades, running a mill cutter in climb cut gives the
> smoother finish. Of course, everything is very securely clamped down.
> Dunno about this in WW.
>
> John
>
On Mon, 03 Nov 2003 17:38:08 -0500, Ehvee8or <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Apparently I'm an even greater newbie than the OP. What's a climb cut
>and why would I want to use one?
Dangerous, and you wouldn't want to.
Replace the wheels of your car with big sawblades and drive along.
That's a climb cut. As you might imagine, there's quite a force
generated to drive the saw along relative to the road/workpiece.
It's safer to feed the other way. The workpiece is pushed back at you,
and you both oppose this and feed it by pushing in the same direction.
Things are under control.
Climb cutting is hazardous, because you're either pushing the feed in
one direction or restraining it from leaping ahead of you. As you
feed, and as the cut changes, then the force you need to apply changes
direction. This is always somewhat hazardous.
Climb cutting is really only done (for hand tools and woodworking)
with routers and small cutters. For saws and planers, it's just far
too hazardous. No-one likes doing it, but it can reduce break-out
when working across the grain, especially when you reach the end of a
cross-grain edge.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
I haven't seen a hand held router yet that would run backwards.
"George M. Kazaka" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> To help simplify this it is running the router Backwards
>
I wonder if a spiral up or down cut bit might be better than straight
flutes?
Erik
"Bob McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:GDkpb.66489$mZ5.413601@attbi_s54...
> My first project is a round table top. I have researched the group's past
> postings on direction of cut with a router, but still am not sure for my
> situation. I would appreciate some knowledgeable help.
>
> Table diameter after cutting will be 46 inches. The table rim is mahogany,
> approx. 1.75 inches thick; the mahogany is glued and splined in a hexagon
> shape from pieces that are about 5 inches wide. The grain on each piece
is
> fairly straight. I have made a 2 by 6 stretcher that forms a diameter
> inside the hexagon, and have a 0.25 inch carriage bolt protruding from the
> center of the stretcher for my pivot. My router is restrained by two
0.375
> inch-diameter steel rods through the router base to the pivot. The bit is
a
> 0.5 inch diameter, with two straight flutes.
>
> I would like to climb-cut to minimize tearout. I believe the trammel is
> strong enough to keep the router in check. However, the bit with be
> partially exposed (about a quarter inch) as I hit the mid-point of each of
> the hexagon's sides. Will this cause any problems? I know to make
multiple
> passes, increasing depth each time, but I'm not sure of the effect of the
> bit coming partially out on each side.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
How about using a spiral up cut bit instead of the 2-flute. It tends to pull
it self downwards (I think). Or is it the down cut spiral?
Erik
"Bob McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:GDkpb.66489$mZ5.413601@attbi_s54...
> My first project is a round table top. I have researched the group's past
> postings on direction of cut with a router, but still am not sure for my
> situation. I would appreciate some knowledgeable help.
>
> Table diameter after cutting will be 46 inches. The table rim is mahogany,
> approx. 1.75 inches thick; the mahogany is glued and splined in a hexagon
> shape from pieces that are about 5 inches wide. The grain on each piece
is
> fairly straight. I have made a 2 by 6 stretcher that forms a diameter
> inside the hexagon, and have a 0.25 inch carriage bolt protruding from the
> center of the stretcher for my pivot. My router is restrained by two
0.375
> inch-diameter steel rods through the router base to the pivot. The bit is
a
> 0.5 inch diameter, with two straight flutes.
>
> I would like to climb-cut to minimize tearout. I believe the trammel is
> strong enough to keep the router in check. However, the bit with be
> partially exposed (about a quarter inch) as I hit the mid-point of each of
> the hexagon's sides. Will this cause any problems? I know to make
multiple
> passes, increasing depth each time, but I'm not sure of the effect of the
> bit coming partially out on each side.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
CW, thinking about it is how I came up with the suggestion. Considering I've
had my router for two months, I thought I was contributing an idea no one
else brought up. If you would be so kind as to elaborate on the 'think about
it', I would be most grateful for the wisdom and advise. I don't want to
wear my router anytime soon 8~).
Regards, Erik
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:zfiqb.87317$9E1.442057@attbi_s52...
> Won't help. Think about it.
>
>
> "Erik Ahrens" <erikl_nospam_@_nospam_syserco.com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > How about using a spiral up cut bit instead of the 2-flute. It tends to
> pull
> > it self downwards (I think). Or is it the down cut spiral?
> >
> > Erik
> >
> >
> > "Bob McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:GDkpb.66489$mZ5.413601@attbi_s54...
> > > My first project is a round table top. I have researched the group's
> past
> > > postings on direction of cut with a router, but still am not sure for
my
> > > situation. I would appreciate some knowledgeable help.
> > >
> > > Table diameter after cutting will be 46 inches. The table rim is
> mahogany,
> > > approx. 1.75 inches thick; the mahogany is glued and splined in a
> hexagon
> > > shape from pieces that are about 5 inches wide. The grain on each
piece
> > is
> > > fairly straight. I have made a 2 by 6 stretcher that forms a diameter
> > > inside the hexagon, and have a 0.25 inch carriage bolt protruding from
> the
> > > center of the stretcher for my pivot. My router is restrained by two
> > 0.375
> > > inch-diameter steel rods through the router base to the pivot. The
bit
> is
> > a
> > > 0.5 inch diameter, with two straight flutes.
> > >
> > > I would like to climb-cut to minimize tearout. I believe the trammel
is
> > > strong enough to keep the router in check. However, the bit with be
> > > partially exposed (about a quarter inch) as I hit the mid-point of
each
> of
> > > the hexagon's sides. Will this cause any problems? I know to make
> > multiple
> > > passes, increasing depth each time, but I'm not sure of the effect of
> the
> > > bit coming partially out on each side.
> > >
> > > Thanks for your help.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Won't help. Think about it.
"Erik Ahrens" <erikl_nospam_@_nospam_syserco.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How about using a spiral up cut bit instead of the 2-flute. It tends to
pull
> it self downwards (I think). Or is it the down cut spiral?
>
> Erik
>
>
> "Bob McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:GDkpb.66489$mZ5.413601@attbi_s54...
> > My first project is a round table top. I have researched the group's
past
> > postings on direction of cut with a router, but still am not sure for my
> > situation. I would appreciate some knowledgeable help.
> >
> > Table diameter after cutting will be 46 inches. The table rim is
mahogany,
> > approx. 1.75 inches thick; the mahogany is glued and splined in a
hexagon
> > shape from pieces that are about 5 inches wide. The grain on each piece
> is
> > fairly straight. I have made a 2 by 6 stretcher that forms a diameter
> > inside the hexagon, and have a 0.25 inch carriage bolt protruding from
the
> > center of the stretcher for my pivot. My router is restrained by two
> 0.375
> > inch-diameter steel rods through the router base to the pivot. The bit
is
> a
> > 0.5 inch diameter, with two straight flutes.
> >
> > I would like to climb-cut to minimize tearout. I believe the trammel is
> > strong enough to keep the router in check. However, the bit with be
> > partially exposed (about a quarter inch) as I hit the mid-point of each
of
> > the hexagon's sides. Will this cause any problems? I know to make
> multiple
> > passes, increasing depth each time, but I'm not sure of the effect of
the
> > bit coming partially out on each side.
> >
> > Thanks for your help.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>