what I've used with some success is paste floor wax, for hardwood/laminate
floors, it's easy, tough and if it's damaged it's really easy to repair
GerryG wrote:
> For shop use, I always use shellac. It dries much faster, and offers more
> protection. Danish oil could be anything, but if a varnish/oil it will
> take much longer to dry, even longer to cure. Shellac is also easy to
> touch up as needed.
> GerryG
>
> On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 21:43:25 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles
> Krug"@cdksystems.com> wrote:
>
>>What's a better finish for wooden jigs and shop fixtures?
>>
>>A BLO-type finish or a Shellac-type finish?
>>
>>Picking two which are easy to apply and, more important, easy to
>>repair.
>>
>>What about Danish Oil?
>>
>>Thanx
>>
>>
>>Charles
I'll agree with that. As another wrote, what you use depends on both what's
needed, and how long the jig is to be used. I've got a well used can of
similar wax here. So it's shellac, wax, and wb poly I end up using. The wb
poly is resistant to some stuff the shellac isn't, and dries pretty fast.
GerryG
On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 12:18:50 -0400, Richard Clements <[email protected]>
wrote:
>what I've used with some success is paste floor wax, for hardwood/laminate
>floors, it's easy, tough and if it's damaged it's really easy to repair
>GerryG wrote:
>
>> For shop use, I always use shellac. It dries much faster, and offers more
>> protection. Danish oil could be anything, but if a varnish/oil it will
>> take much longer to dry, even longer to cure. Shellac is also easy to
>> touch up as needed.
>> GerryG
>>
>> On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 21:43:25 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles
>> Krug"@cdksystems.com> wrote:
>>
>>>What's a better finish for wooden jigs and shop fixtures?
>>>
>>>A BLO-type finish or a Shellac-type finish?
>>>
>>>Picking two which are easy to apply and, more important, easy to
>>>repair.
>>>
>>>What about Danish Oil?
>>>
>>>Thanx
>>>
>>>
>>>Charles
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 21:43:25 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles
Krug"@cdksystems.com> wrote:
>What's a better finish for wooden jigs and shop fixtures?
Whatever I can reach, have a lot of, and is cheap. <G>
I've used shellac, polyurethane, lacquer, paint, but in most cases,
nothing.
I make jigs as I need them. Therefore, I'm in too much of a hurry to
apply a finish, as I need to use the jig to make something else. If
it's something that'll get a lot of use, I might finish it later.
Most get some wax on the moving parts or where glue might stick, and
that's it.
Some folks enjoy making jigs for the sake of making jigs, I don't.
Barry
<[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>
> finish? on a jig? why?
If it is a one time use, I agree. Jigs or templates that will be used
repeatedly get poly or shellac. Keeps them clean if nothing else. Dust
wipes off easier.
Most of my templates are Masonite or 'Whiteboard'. As a matter of course,
the sheets get a coat, or two, of Shellac {'Clear Seal' UNwaxed} before they
are even cut. This allows me to 'cleanly' glue the pattern to the surface.
After the pattern is cut, the exposed edges are also given the shellac
treatment.
If the template is a 'Drawing' one {1/8 in material}- the shellac is all I
use. If it is a 'Router' one - an additional coat {or two} of water-based
poly is given to the edges.
If a jig is something more than a scrap of '2x for spacing, etc., and
'requires' the use of 'Baltic Birch' type material, then it certainly
warrants a bit of protection. I would shellac if I needed it 'NOW' !! - or
both if I could wait. In addition, it gives a nice surface to either wipe
down with wax - for slipperiness, or attaching some sort of 'anti-slip'
material when a firm hold is desired.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote ...
SNIP
Jigs or templates that will be used repeatedly get poly or shellac.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 21:43:25 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles
> Krug"@cdksystems.com> wrote:
>
>>What's a better finish for wooden jigs and shop fixtures?
>>
>>A BLO-type finish or a Shellac-type finish?
>>
>>Picking two which are easy to apply and, more important, easy to
>>repair.
>>
>>What about Danish Oil?
>>
>>Thanx
>>
>>
>>Charles
>
>
>
> finish? on a jig? why?
One reason I can think of is to keep glue squeeze-out from bonding the part
to it.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 16:20:32 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>finish? on a jig? why?
My jigs are MDF, and I live in the West of England.
If I don't wax them, they grow barnacles.
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 21:43:25 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles
Krug"@cdksystems.com> wrote:
>What's a better finish for wooden jigs and shop fixtures?
>
>A BLO-type finish or a Shellac-type finish?
>
>Picking two which are easy to apply and, more important, easy to
>repair.
>
>What about Danish Oil?
>
>Thanx
>
>
>Charles
finish? on a jig? why?
On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 03:37:19 -0700, "AArDvarK" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Humidity?
This week it's monsoons. I've had to lend the workshop dehumidifier
to help dry a neighbour's shop out after flooding.
Anyone got any gopherwood ?
For shop use, I always use shellac. It dries much faster, and offers more
protection. Danish oil could be anything, but if a varnish/oil it will take
much longer to dry, even longer to cure. Shellac is also easy to touch up as
needed.
GerryG
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 21:43:25 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles
Krug"@cdksystems.com> wrote:
>What's a better finish for wooden jigs and shop fixtures?
>
>A BLO-type finish or a Shellac-type finish?
>
>Picking two which are easy to apply and, more important, easy to
>repair.
>
>What about Danish Oil?
>
>Thanx
>
>
>Charles