I'm getting ready for this entertainment center I've been planning. 3/4"
maple veneer plywood that I bought 1/4" thinck banding for. I was planning
to set this onto an existing sideboard, at least for starters. So I'd
thoguht of having a bottom for this with 4 uprights resting on this. Wide
middle for the TV with sliding doors to hide it that slide left and right
in front of bookcase-like sets of shelves that are each about half the
width of the middle.
Questions: On that bottom, do I attach the outside uprights by butting or
dadoing them onto the bottom (with Dominos as strengthening)? Then how do
I put banding on the narrow outside edges of the bottom?
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I could give all kinds of answers but I am having a hard time picturing.
>> Got a sketch of the proposed area in question?
>
> I'll be posting a terrible drawing on abpw for all to see.
>
I'll take a look.
>
>> O M G !!! You have a Domino?
>
> Retired, and wanting to have fun ... Not cost-effective for an amteur
> newbie woodworking sort of hobbyist, but ...
I have had mine about 3~4 years, they are great huh? ;~)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 4/7/2011 9:37 AM, Han wrote:
>> I'm getting ready for this entertainment center I've been planning. 3/4"
>> maple veneer plywood that I bought 1/4" thinck banding for. I was
>> planning
>> to set this onto an existing sideboard, at least for starters. So I'd
>> thoguht of having a bottom for this with 4 uprights resting on this.
>> Wide
>> middle for the TV with sliding doors to hide it that slide left and right
>> in front of bookcase-like sets of shelves that are each about half the
>> width of the middle.
>>
>> Questions: On that bottom, do I attach the outside uprights by butting
>> or
>> dadoing them onto the bottom (with Dominos as strengthening)? Then how
>> do
>> I put banding on the narrow outside edges of the bottom?
>
> If I correctly envision your question ... in almost all cases it is best
> to apply the edge banding first, them cut your dadoes/rabbets with the
> banding already in place ... makes for a much better fit and takes less
> time.
>
> CAVEAT: when dadoing through edge banded stock, it is generally a good
> idea to tape/or back up the exit point of the router bit or dado stack
> blade so the banding won't tear out, the entry point is less vulnerable
> since it is effectively backed up already.
>
> Although I know this/better, I had a situation where I had to do just the
> opposite today ... AMMOF, just spent the last three hours banding 3/4"
> maple plywood with glue-on banding and cleaning up the existing dadoes,
> covered up by the banding application, with a chisel.
>
> Sloppy and time consuming ... fresh on my mind, and still wearing the
> sawdust as I type this. :(
And weren't we talking about not using veneer any more and using hard wood
strips. LOL
"Han" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm getting ready for this entertainment center I've been planning. 3/4"
> maple veneer plywood that I bought 1/4" thinck banding for. I was
> planning
> to set this onto an existing sideboard, at least for starters. So I'd
> thoguht of having a bottom for this with 4 uprights resting on this. Wide
> middle for the TV with sliding doors to hide it that slide left and right
> in front of bookcase-like sets of shelves that are each about half the
> width of the middle.
>
> Questions: On that bottom, do I attach the outside uprights by butting or
> dadoing them onto the bottom (with Dominos as strengthening)? Then how do
> I put banding on the narrow outside edges of the bottom?
>
> --
> Best regards
> Han
> email address is invalid
I could give all kinds of answers but I am having a hard time picturing.
Got a sketch of the proposed area in question?
O M G !!! You have a Domino?
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I could give all kinds of answers but I am having a hard time picturing.
> Got a sketch of the proposed area in question?
I'll be posting a terrible drawing on abpw for all to see.
> O M G !!! You have a Domino?
Retired, and wanting to have fun ... Not cost-effective for an amteur
newbie woodworking sort of hobbyist, but ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 4/7/2011 5:24 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
>> If I correctly envision your question
>
> Just replied to your post in ABPW ...
I replied to that. I guess I was having a senior moment that I didn't
envision that routed rabbet. I'll keep in mind to do the banding before
the routing and assembly.
Thanks a zillion, Karl!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in news:8sSdnRXog--
[email protected]:
> I have had mine about 3~4 years, they are great huh? ;~)
>
Yep!!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 4/7/2011 9:37 AM, Han wrote:
> I'm getting ready for this entertainment center I've been planning. 3/4"
> maple veneer plywood that I bought 1/4" thinck banding for. I was planning
> to set this onto an existing sideboard, at least for starters. So I'd
> thoguht of having a bottom for this with 4 uprights resting on this. Wide
> middle for the TV with sliding doors to hide it that slide left and right
> in front of bookcase-like sets of shelves that are each about half the
> width of the middle.
>
> Questions: On that bottom, do I attach the outside uprights by butting or
> dadoing them onto the bottom (with Dominos as strengthening)? Then how do
> I put banding on the narrow outside edges of the bottom?
If I correctly envision your question ... in almost all cases it is best
to apply the edge banding first, them cut your dadoes/rabbets with the
banding already in place ... makes for a much better fit and takes less
time.
CAVEAT: when dadoing through edge banded stock, it is generally a good
idea to tape/or back up the exit point of the router bit or dado stack
blade so the banding won't tear out, the entry point is less vulnerable
since it is effectively backed up already.
Although I know this/better, I had a situation where I had to do just
the opposite today ... AMMOF, just spent the last three hours banding
3/4" maple plywood with glue-on banding and cleaning up the existing
dadoes, covered up by the banding application, with a chisel.
Sloppy and time consuming ... fresh on my mind, and still wearing the
sawdust as I type this. :(
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 4/7/2011 9:37 AM, Han wrote:
>> I'm getting ready for this entertainment center I've been
>> planning. 3/4"
>> maple veneer plywood that I bought 1/4" thinck banding
>> for. I was planning
>> to set this onto an existing sideboard, at least for
>> starters. So I'd
>> thoguht of having a bottom for this with 4 uprights
>> resting on this. Wide
>> middle for the TV with sliding doors to hide it that
>> slide left and right
>> in front of bookcase-like sets of shelves that are each
>> about half the
>> width of the middle.
>>
>> Questions: On that bottom, do I attach the outside
>> uprights by butting or
>> dadoing them onto the bottom (with Dominos as
>> strengthening)? Then how do
>> I put banding on the narrow outside edges of the bottom?
>
> If I correctly envision your question ... in almost all
> cases it is best to apply the edge banding first, them cut
> your dadoes/rabbets with the banding already in place ...
> makes for a much better fit and takes less time.
>
> CAVEAT: when dadoing through edge banded stock, it is
> generally a good idea to tape/or back up the exit point of
> the router bit or dado stack blade so the banding won't
> tear out, the entry point is less vulnerable since it is
> effectively backed up already.
OH:
I'll double on Swingman's warning. You can even do
both. A friend who works cutting through banding also
scores the profile of the through cut on exit face of
material
with a sharp knife. I can see this makes sense if you don't
back
the banding up but my ability to fully reason to the benefit
he finds in doing it with redundant back up doesn't fully
equal his faith in adding that as a third step. Side-by-side
trials would put Doubting Thomas to rest though.
Another nod to the
simple and obvious is that the sharper your bit,
the less potential for tearout you'll have, especially on
thin laminae.
I'm ignorant of what awpb is or I'd have a look at your
details.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
Thugh I know this/better, I had a situation where I had to
do just
> the opposite today ... AMMOF, just spent the last three
> hours banding 3/4" maple plywood with glue-on banding and
> cleaning up the existing dadoes, covered up by the banding
> application, with a chisel.
>
> Sloppy and time consuming ... fresh on my mind, and still
> wearing the sawdust as I type this. :(
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Fri, 8 Apr 2011 18:58:53 -0700, "CW" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> O M G !!! You have a Domino?
>>
>
>What, besides a tool, could make a man talk like a 14 year old girl? :) :)
Hah, that's an easy one: A 14-18 y/o girl. <wink>
--
From the Book of Aussie Bush Etiquette:
Never tow another car using pantyhose and duct tape.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> O M G !!! You have a Domino?
>
What, besides a tool, could make a man talk like a 14 year old girl? :) :)