Have the 6/4 piece of cherry that's 5 7/8" wide and ~7' long. Had it
finished to S2S and and edge.
Then I cut it in half lengthwise. The piece w/the jointed edge was
fine. The piece with the one rough edge (that I then sawed off to
make 2 even width pieces) warped (bent) along the long axis. This is
no good, needless to say.
Why did only half of a single board do this?
How do I fix? (I've got i clamped down o try to ingrain a new memory
of straightness into the board, but this may take forever. A more
timely/effective soltution is desired).
Thanx
Renata
"Carver33" <[email protected]>
: You can steam wood to bend it. Can you steam wood to straighten it?
I believe that kiln managers can recondition timbers, but if tried on a
home-workshop basis, I reckon that the item would need to be under pressure
during the steaming/drying cycle.
I've often thought of it, but never tried it - possibly because the process
is likely to require greater control than possible in the workshop.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email address is username@ISP
username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
Website www.amgron.clara.net
The piece that bent have sapwood in it? Good bet that'd bend.
Were the annual rings consistent in interval? Difference is what you see
if you have "reaction" wood.
Did you rip close to the heart? Smaller radius rings pull harder.
It's wood, so you take your best shot based on what you observe. If any of
the conditions above pertained when you evaluated the wood for cutting, you
might well have thought of using the piece at its largest. I mentally
discard the heart (pith) and sapwood as I plan the cuts.
"Renata" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Have the 6/4 piece of cherry that's 5 7/8" wide and ~7' long. Had it
> finished to S2S and and edge.
>
> Then I cut it in half lengthwise. The piece w/the jointed edge was
> fine. The piece with the one rough edge (that I then sawed off to
> make 2 even width pieces) warped (bent) along the long axis. This is
> no good, needless to say.
>
> Why did only half of a single board do this?
> How do I fix? (I've got i clamped down o try to ingrain a new memory
> of straightness into the board, but this may take forever. A more
> timely/effective soltution is desired).
>
> Thanx
> Renata
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:45:11 -0500, Renata <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Have the 6/4 piece of cherry that's 5 7/8" wide and ~7' long. Had it
>finished to S2S and and edge.
>
>Then I cut it in half lengthwise.
was this cut roughly in the middle?
>The piece w/the jointed edge was
>fine. The piece with the one rough edge (that I then sawed off to
>make 2 even width pieces) warped (bent) along the long axis. This is
>no good, needless to say.
dang. I hate it when that happens....
>
>Why did only half of a single board do this?
hard telling. wood is a natural material, so it's properties will vary
from point to point. the wood closer to the waney edge was a different
age than the wood closer to the center of the tree. how the wood was
stacked for kiln drying can make a big difference, as can how fast it
was dried.
>How do I fix? (I've got i clamped down o try to ingrain a new memory
>of straightness into the board, but this may take forever. A more
>timely/effective soltution is desired).
generally speaking you can't.
if you can, use that piece in a location where it will be held
straight by other pieces, or cut it into short enough pieces that the
warp ceases to be a factor.
alternatively, you could try ripping it in half, reversing the halves
and gluing them back together- so they will pull each other straight.
given the history of this board, I doubt that the two halves will have
equivalent warpage, however.
if I were trying to coax it back to straight with clamps I think I'd
overshoot the curve by a fair bit.
whatever you do, if the board is going to have to hold it's own shape
(freestanding it's length, not bound to another member) within the
finished article let it sit unrestrained for a while before using it.
it would suck to get it bent back to straight and make the door stile
or whatever out of it only to have it go wild again a few days
later....
>
>Thanx
>Renata
hope it helps
Bridger
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 02:20:49 GMT, "Frank McVey"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've tried this many times, with very limited success. As other posters
>have noted, the plank had inbuilt stress, probably through bad seasoning.
>By ripping it, you've released that stress and the two halfs have now found
>their equilibrium. All you can do with the bent one really is to leave it
>as is is and cut usable bits from it now that it is stable. And that isn't
>to say that, if you rip it again, you won't release a bit more stress...
>
>Cheers
>
>Frank
<snip>
You can steam wood to bend it. Can you steam wood to straighten it?
Bill
>
Renata,
If you look closely at the grain of the two halves, you will probably note a
significant difference. If this piece of cherry came from a large limb or
from a trunk that had grown out at an angle, one part of the board would
have grown under tension, one side under compression. Ripping the board has
now removed one half of the force that was helping to maintain equilibrium
and it warped.
That's one possibility. Another is that one board has picked up or lost
more moisture on one face than the other. Dampen the concave side and lay
it on some stretchers so air can get at all sides evenly and place a weight
on it to help. Amount of weight you ask? Leeseee...less than the weight of
a car engine but more than a loaf of bread.... 30-40lbs should be about
right.
Worth a shot since what you have now can only be cut to make smaller pieces
and re-milled.
Bob S.
"Renata" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Have the 6/4 piece of cherry that's 5 7/8" wide and ~7' long. Had it
> finished to S2S and and edge.
>
> Then I cut it in half lengthwise. The piece w/the jointed edge was
> fine. The piece with the one rough edge (that I then sawed off to
> make 2 even width pieces) warped (bent) along the long axis. This is
> no good, needless to say.
>
> Why did only half of a single board do this?
> How do I fix? (I've got i clamped down o try to ingrain a new memory
> of straightness into the board, but this may take forever. A more
> timely/effective soltution is desired).
>
> Thanx
> Renata
"Renata" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Have the 6/4 piece of cherry that's 5 7/8" wide and ~7' long. Had it
> finished to S2S and and edge.
>
> Then I cut it in half lengthwise. The piece w/the jointed edge was
> fine. The piece with the one rough edge (that I then sawed off to
> make 2 even width pieces) warped (bent) along the long axis. This is
> no good, needless to say.
> Why did only half of a single board do this?
Because wood comes from trees, and trees grow differently depending on if
it was a wet year, or if that side of the tree is shaded by other
vegitation, etc. This results in differing desities throughout the board and
corrsponding internal stresses. Sometimes, this results in what you
observed. Careful stock selection (clear, straight grain) can mitigate this
risk, but not totally eliminate it.
In short, it was probably not preventable, sometimes that just happens.
> How do I fix? (I've got i clamped down o try to ingrain a new memory
> of straightness into the board, but this may take forever. A more
> timely/effective soltution is desired).
"Training" a board doesn't work. You can remove a cup temporarily with the
application of a little moisture/sunshine (leave a board on the lawn in the
summer and it will cup down. But that is just temporary until the moisture
content equalizes again.
Options:
1. The expensive option is to buy a jointer.
2. You can configure a router table fence (with a slightly offset infeed
fence and the outfeed fence tangent to the edge of a straight cutter) to
function like a jointer
3. Fasten the bent board to a straight one such that the straight board will
ride along your table saw's rip fence, while just the bent board makes
contact with the saw blade.... rip away.
>
> Thanx
> Renata
I've tried this many times, with very limited success. As other posters
have noted, the plank had inbuilt stress, probably through bad seasoning.
By ripping it, you've released that stress and the two halfs have now found
their equilibrium. All you can do with the bent one really is to leave it
as is is and cut usable bits from it now that it is stable. And that isn't
to say that, if you rip it again, you won't release a bit more stress...
Cheers
Frank
"Renata" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Have the 6/4 piece of cherry that's 5 7/8" wide and ~7' long. Had it
> finished to S2S and and edge.
>
> Then I cut it in half lengthwise. The piece w/the jointed edge was
> fine. The piece with the one rough edge (that I then sawed off to
> make 2 even width pieces) warped (bent) along the long axis. This is
> no good, needless to say.
>
> Why did only half of a single board do this?
> How do I fix? (I've got i clamped down o try to ingrain a new memory
> of straightness into the board, but this may take forever. A more
> timely/effective soltution is desired).
>
> Thanx
> Renata
Hi Bill,
The answer to that is yes, you can. Steaming relieves the stress in the
wood. However, there's usually some spring back when you take it out of the
clamps, so you'd need to guesstimate it and overbend slightly. It might be
worth it if it's a particularly precious piece of wood.
Cheers,
Frank
"Carver33" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 02:20:49 GMT, "Frank McVey"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I've tried this many times, with very limited success. As other posters
> >have noted, the plank had inbuilt stress, probably through bad seasoning.
> >By ripping it, you've released that stress and the two halfs have now
found
> >their equilibrium. All you can do with the bent one really is to leave
it
> >as is is and cut usable bits from it now that it is stable. And that
isn't
> >to say that, if you rip it again, you won't release a bit more stress...
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Frank
> <snip>
>
>
> You can steam wood to bend it. Can you steam wood to straighten it?
>
> Bill
> >
>
On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 10:47:45 -0500, Renata <[email protected]> wrote:
>Aaaahhhh! You folks gotta stop abusing... I better stop here since
>I'm sure anything I say will be convoluted further.
>
>I can cut it up to nice 18" pieces and throw it into the fireplace
>this evening. Supposed to get a nice little snow storm.
>
>Actually, I'm debating whether to try and salvage it. Over a 80"
>length, the bend start about 3/4 of the along and bends out ~1" by the
>end. This wood is going to be fastened to the side panel of an tv
>armoire, partly in an effort to restrain the panel from bowing out
>where the large opening for the TV is.
so when you do attach it, place the bow in.
> I'm thinking I'm going to
>rabbet the piece and fasten it w/biscuits to the panel. Where the
>bend in the wood is, the panel will be stiffened by two shelves about
>14" apart, which would restrain the wood from it's desire to bend.
>I'm just a little concerned about unthought of stresses from which I
>might find undesireable consequences later (like, when the dang thing
>is completed).
>
>Renata
>
very good Larry....fell off my chair on that one...
Bob S.
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:44:25 -0700, Bridger <[email protected]> brought
> forth from the murky depths:
>
> >if you can, use that piece in a location where it will be held
> >straight by other pieces, or cut it into short enough pieces that the
> >warp ceases to be a factor.
>
> So, you're thinkin' "wood chipper" here, are ya?
>
>
> --
> STOP THE SLAUGHTER! || http://diversify.com
> Boycott Baby Oil! || Programmed Websites
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:44:25 -0700, Bridger <[email protected]> brought
forth from the murky depths:
>if you can, use that piece in a location where it will be held
>straight by other pieces, or cut it into short enough pieces that the
>warp ceases to be a factor.
So, you're thinkin' "wood chipper" here, are ya?
--
STOP THE SLAUGHTER! || http://diversify.com
Boycott Baby Oil! || Programmed Websites
Aaaahhhh! You folks gotta stop abusing... I better stop here since
I'm sure anything I say will be convoluted further.
I can cut it up to nice 18" pieces and throw it into the fireplace
this evening. Supposed to get a nice little snow storm.
Actually, I'm debating whether to try and salvage it. Over a 80"
length, the bend start about 3/4 of the along and bends out ~1" by the
end. This wood is going to be fastened to the side panel of an tv
armoire, partly in an effort to restrain the panel from bowing out
where the large opening for the TV is. I'm thinking I'm going to
rabbet the piece and fasten it w/biscuits to the panel. Where the
bend in the wood is, the panel will be stiffened by two shelves about
14" apart, which would restrain the wood from it's desire to bend.
I'm just a little concerned about unthought of stresses from which I
might find undesireable consequences later (like, when the dang thing
is completed).
Renata
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 17:17:00 GMT, "Bob S." <[email protected]> wrote:
>very good Larry....fell off my chair on that one...
>
>Bob S.
>
>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:44:25 -0700, Bridger <[email protected]> brought
>> forth from the murky depths:
>>
>> >if you can, use that piece in a location where it will be held
>> >straight by other pieces, or cut it into short enough pieces that the
>> >warp ceases to be a factor.
>>
>> So, you're thinkin' "wood chipper" here, are ya?
>>
>>
>> --
>> STOP THE SLAUGHTER! || http://diversify.com
>> Boycott Baby Oil! || Programmed Websites
>
smart, not dumb for email