On my current project, an ash bed for my son, I tried to compare using a scraper against a
ROS for final surface prep before varnishing (T&T varnish oil). I must be doing it wrong
because the scraper results are disappointing. I do get nice, very thin curls off the
scraper, but the wood surface is not very smooth and has a lot of high spots that follow
the figure as the edges of the winter wood stand out. It also takes an unfair amount of
effort and the upper edge of the scraper is slicing my fingers like salami. The ROS with
220 paper worked better - smoother, flatter surface, even after vacuuming the dust out of
the pores.
I'm using the Veritas scraper/burnisher set and scary sharpening the edge down to 2000
grit paper, using a scrap block of wood to keep the edge square, before burnishing the
edge at 10 degrees. It seems to take at least 6 passes to get a palpable curl on the
edge.
So how many things am I doing wrong here? Could it just be that ash doesn't take scraping
well?
Thanks.
--
Bob
How thick is the scraper? If the scraper is following the density of the
late/summer wood, it sounds as though you are using a fairly thin scraper.
Might want to consider using a thicker one.
Something to also consider using is a Stanley #80 scraper, especially if
you are scraping relatively large flat surfaces (table tops and the like).
Thin scrapers are used with a light touch, and are quite useful in scraping
finish coats (runs and the like).
--
There is only one period and no underscores in the real email address.
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
OP is Canadian, no? Could be he's trying F. nigra, which is a real stringy
stinker to scrape. It even tears with a good plane.
http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/TechSheets/HardwoodNA/htmlDocs/fraxinus.html
Don't believe that bit about no taste or smell. Black ash has both in
abundance.
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 19:33:57 GMT, "Roger Jensen" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >You likely answered your own question. Oak, ash, pecan and other such
course
> >woods don't scrape as well as tight grained woods.
>
> I know our (UK) oak is harder than US white oak, but I scrape a lot of
> it with no trouble. Ash OTOH, is a bit soft. You can do it, but it's
> more critical of your scraper preparation.
Makes great picture frames with that outrageous grain, though. Knew one guy
who made a hooded cradle out of it. No way a kid could fall asleep in
anything that noisy.
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 18:32:40 -0400, "George"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >OP is Canadian, no? Could be he's trying F. nigra, which is a real
stringy
> >stinker to scrape. It even tears with a good plane.
>
> Thought that stuff was just for basketmaking ? I've rarely seen it,
> but it's bloody awful timber to use.
On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 18:32:40 -0400, "George"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>OP is Canadian, no? Could be he's trying F. nigra, which is a real stringy
>stinker to scrape. It even tears with a good plane.
Thought that stuff was just for basketmaking ? I've rarely seen it,
but it's bloody awful timber to use.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Bob,
You likely answered your own question. Oak, ash, pecan and other such course
woods don't scrape as well as tight grained woods. That said, I most often
sand those kinds of wood and sometimes, depending on the finish I am after
scrape the in-between coats. The hook is not as critical as you may think,
you can scrape a smooth finish with broken glass, a razor blade or most
anything with a sharp edge. I am not saying toss your scraper or the
techniques you are using, you are doing it very well.
Rog
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.528 / Virus Database: 324 - Release Date: 10/16/2003
On Fri, 17 Oct 2003 19:33:57 GMT, "Roger Jensen" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>You likely answered your own question. Oak, ash, pecan and other such course
>woods don't scrape as well as tight grained woods.
I know our (UK) oak is harder than US white oak, but I scrape a lot of
it with no trouble. Ash OTOH, is a bit soft. You can do it, but it's
more critical of your scraper preparation.
>The hook is not as critical as you may think,
The hook is significant, because it changes the method of chip
formation.
A square edge forms Type III chips. Material is compressed ahead of
the edge (the "snowplough" effect) and it fails through compression.
The waste comes off as dust. The surface can be poor, unless you take
a very chin chip. If the surface is inflexible and not too well
bonded to the substrate, then this dusty action is fine - so glass
scrapers are good at removing old varnish.
A hook forms a Type II chips. The material is lifted and bent by the
edge, and it fails along a well defined diagonal plane ahead of the
edge. Chips are soft (already folded) shavings.
On a soft timber like ash, compression of a Type III chip tends to rip
out of the surface beneath. You're better with a hook and making sure
the angle is right to keep making Type II shavings.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
"Bob N" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On my current project, an ash bed for my son, I tried to compare using a scraper against
a
> ROS for final surface prep before varnishing (T&T varnish oil). I must be doing it
wrong
> because the scraper results are disappointing. I do get nice, very thin curls off the
> scraper, but the wood surface is not very smooth and has a lot of high spots that follow
> the figure as the edges of the winter wood stand out. It also takes an unfair amount of
> effort and the upper edge of the scraper is slicing my fingers like salami. The ROS with
> 220 paper worked better - smoother, flatter surface, even after vacuuming the dust out
of
> the pores.
>
> I'm using the Veritas scraper/burnisher set and scary sharpening the edge down to 2000
> grit paper, using a scrap block of wood to keep the edge square, before burnishing the
> edge at 10 degrees. It seems to take at least 6 passes to get a palpable curl on the
> edge.
>
> So how many things am I doing wrong here? Could it just be that ash doesn't take
scraping
> well?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Bob
>
One possibility to consider is that you are working *way* to hard with the scraper.
If the scraper edge is smooth and well burnished, and you have experimented with the
proper scraping angle,
you are probably flexing the thing too much.
This causes a lot of wear in a small area, overheating and dulling quickly. (not to
mention excessive hand fatigue).
This also leaves a lot of small but increasingly noticable furrows in the surface.
I would say to resharpen and curl a fine to moderate hook. Further, I would recomend the
non flexing pull method of using a hand scraper. If you're unfamiliar with this, refer to
Tage Frid's books on teaching woodworking for a description.
Lastly, practice until you're comfortable on project fall offs before attacking the
projects final finishing.
Good luck,
Myx
>
> I'm using the Veritas scraper/burnisher set and scary sharpening the
edge down to 2000
> grit paper, using a scrap block of wood to keep the edge square,
before burnishing the
> edge at 10 degrees. It seems to take at least 6 passes to get a
palpable curl on the
> edge.
>
> So how many things am I doing wrong here? Could it just be that ash
doesn't take scraping
> well?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Bob
>
You're WAAAAYYY overdoing it. Use a flat file and file the edge of the
scraper flat. Burnish a hook on it and scrape.