I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
shelf.
3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
"bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
--
<dan> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
> by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
> shelf.
>
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
The 3/4" is going to be a better choice IMHO. Typically you can get a good
grade of 3/4" plywood almost anywhere. Typically 5/8" plywood is a
construction grade plywood and is probably going to be warped to begin with
considering the door. I would put solid wood around the perimeter of the
door to be safe and protect the edges.
Will weight really be a factor once you have the cabinets in place and full?
3/4" is only going to be 20% heavier than 5/8", all things being equal.
On Apr 20, 8:55=A0am, "dan" <> wrote:
> I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
> by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
> shelf.
>
I don't like the idea of a centre shelf being held in place by just
the screws of a Kreg jig.
I would want to dado the shelf in, or use cleats for the shelf to
attach to.
You could run screws from the out-side into the shelf? Like # 8 x 2
1/2".
Either way, for the minimal cost difference, I would go with 3/4".
Personally, I would rather have 3/4" particle board than 5/8
plywood... unless the plywood is a superb grade.
For shop-grade cabinets, 3/4" melamine over PB with taped edges is my
idea of a sturdy and cheap way to build.
And, as mentioned wisely by others, split the doors across the width.
Either that, or frame (2" rail/stile) the door with a 1/4" plywood
panel. Now THOSE corner joints you can Kreg jig.... if a Kreg jig is
what you're after..<G>
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
Warp.
Robatoy wrote:
> On Apr 20, 8:55 am, "dan" <> wrote:
> > I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84"
> > tall by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves
> > will be fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig
> > for the center shelf.
> >
>
> Personally, I would rather have 3/4" particle board than 5/8
> plywood... unless the plywood is a superb grade.
> For shop-grade cabinets, 3/4" melamine over PB with taped edges is my
> idea of a sturdy and cheap way to build.
I thought about that but my concern is with (melamine) chipping.
On Apr 20, 8:55 am, "dan" <> wrote:
> I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
> by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
> shelf.
>
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
>
> --
The fellow that had this house before us used 4 x 8 sheets of 3/4"
plywood to build what you are describing down to the doors of the same
material.
However, I would suggest that 16" of depth would be better than 24"
regardless the material used to construct the cabinet(s). Two foot is
too deep - espeacially on the top shelve(s) and things get "lost."
A good 3/4" plywood slab should do for a 22" wide door without
excessive warping - the 5/8th nch stuff is going to be more prone to
warping - depending on the number of layers (of course).
Weight should not be an issue as this is not likely to be a portable
storage cabinet - right?
Make it as narrow and as shallow as will suit your needs - don't make
a 4' wide cabinet simply because the sheet comes 48" in width!
If you decide to go with 48" wide shelves, consider adding a 1 x 2
across the wide part (use a rabbit to put part under and part covering
the edge if you're able) as this will reduce sag.
Consider cutting a dado along each side to receive the ends of the
shelves - it will make the entire case stronger. Use finish nails and
Titebond to secure them. Save your Kreg screws for something else.
On Apr 20, 8:33 pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <dan> wrote:
> > I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84"
> > tall
> > by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> > fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the
> > center
> > shelf.
>
> > 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just
> > as
> > well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide
> > enough
> > "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> > Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
>
> Back to the drawing board.
>
> Your design as outlined above, is going to come back and bite you in
> the rear end for many of the reasons already outlined by others.
>
> Dados are your friend, butt joints are, ah well lets just say, not
> suggested.
>
> Plywood left unsupported, warps.
>
> Period, end or report.
>
> Largedoorsare for passageways.
>
> Lew
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On Apr 21, 8:19 pm, Hoosierpopi <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Apr 20, 8:55 am, "dan" <> wrote:
>
> > I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
> > by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> > fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
> > shelf.
>
> > 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> > well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> > "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> > Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
>
> > --
>
> The fellow that had this house before us used 4 x 8 sheets of 3/4"
> plywood to build what you are describing down to thedoorsof the same
> material.
>
> However, I would suggest that 16" of depth would be better than 24"
> regardless the material used to construct the cabinet(s). Two foot is
> too deep - espeacially on the top shelve(s) and things get "lost."
>
> A good 3/4" plywood slab should do for a 22" wide door without
> excessive warping - the 5/8th nch stuff is going to be more prone to
> warping - depending on the number of layers (of course).
>
> Weight should not be an issue as this is not likely to be a portable
> storage cabinet - right?
>
> Make it as narrow and as shallow as will suit your needs - don't make
> a 4' wide cabinet simply because the sheet comes 48" in width!
>
> If you decide to go with 48" wide shelves, consider adding a 1 x 2
> across the wide part (use a rabbit to put part under and part covering
> the edge if you're able) as this will reduce sag.
>
> Consider cutting a dado along each side to receive the ends of the
> shelves - it will make the entire case stronger. Use finish nails and
> Titebond to secure them. Save your Kreg screws for something else.
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doors, PVC doors, bifolding doors, sliding doors, doors stable
doors, bi fold doors, uPVC french doors, sliding doors, GRP composite
doors, entrance doors, front doors, residential doors, concertina
doors, front and back doors buy online in UK via Imperial Door which
is specialist of door supplier and manufacturer (home, residential
and
office).
we also offer decorative doors, modern doors, black composite doors,
black uPVC doors, white uPVC doors and wide range of uPVC doors,
composite doors, french doors, bifolding doors, PVC doors...etc.
If you want to buy then please contact us.
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dan wrote:
> I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84"
> tall by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will
> be fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the
> center shelf.
>
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
It will warp.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
There is a reason most of the plant built cabinets
use 3/4" as a base material.
Make two doors 22"x44".
I don't believe any door maker will guarantee any door
of that size. Plywood will warp given time and the
right conditions.
dan wrote:
> I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
> by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
> shelf.
>
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
>
"dan" <> wrote on 20 Apr 2008 in group rec.woodworking:
> I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
> by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
> shelf.
>
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
I just made 21 feet of cabinets like these for a client's garage. She
wanted 3/4" carcasses with flush-mounted 1/2" plywood doors and 3" face
frames. The 5-foot-tall doors warped. I remade them with 1/2" MDF. Even
the MDF is warped a little. I'll have to install some stop blocks and
magnetic catches at the top to make them lie flat.
1/2" stock is too thin. My dad made 3/4" flush doors on his garage
cabinets 50 years ago, and they're nice and flat. Of course, they're not
five feet tall, and they're not modern plywood.
I recommend overlaid doors. If they warp a little, the catches have
something to pull against to flatten out the door. Someone else
recommended panel doors. Those would be even better.
--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement
On 20 Apr 2008 12:55:38 GMT, "dan" <> wrote:
>I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
>by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
>fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
>shelf.
>
>3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
>well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
>"bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
>Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
My shop cabinets are made with 3/8" inch over a 1 x 2 frame (frame
pieces added to the perimeter edge of each panel, then panels
assembled) with 3/4 shelf on cleats.
Doors are simple frame and panel using number two spruce 1 x 2 for the
frames and 1/4" panels.
Light, strong, 15 years old, haven't warped and didn't cost a lot,
and admittedly a little crude because I started with what I had laying
around and designed around it adding material as I ran out of
something. But slightly longer to build than what you have proposed.
Doors, because they are light, swing easily and don't sag.
Tops of the low cabinets are Delta dove gray HPL (fortunate to have a
fence extension table supplier that had scrap) over particle board
and each set of cabinets is either an infeed or outfeed to the RAS.
My shop is so small there are no benches or tables or tools that don't
have a cabinet underneath them.
Frank
On Apr 20, 4:24=A0pm, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <dan> wrote in message
> > 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> > well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> > "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> 5/8ths sheet stock will certainly work, but you'd have a better chance of
> your joinery/mounted hardware 'standing the test of time' with 3/4 thick
> sheetgoods (remember, plywood is NOT the thickness advertised).
>
> Also, without a face frame to stiffen your casework, you will want all the=
> sturdiness you can get out a cabinet that tall.
>
> > Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
>
> Contrary to conventional wisdom, plywood will warp, so be sure it is flat =
to
> start off with, "finish" it equally on all surfaces, and you'll increase
> your chances of it staying flat.
>
> That said, if you're really concerned about "heavy", consider a separate
> door for each section (1/4" plywood "panel" enclosed in a wood rail and
> stile frame would be lighter, easy and inexpensive).
>
> Providing you use straight stock for your door frames, =A0multipledoorswil=
l
> use less expensive hinges, easier to install, and most likely stand a bett=
er
> chance of some warping not occurring over that 84" distance in even the be=
st
> of circumstances.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 3/27/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
Good Morning from Composite Doors Manufacturer and suppliers,
Discount rated composite doors, french doors, uPVC doors, double
doors, PVC doors, bifolding doors, sliding doors, doors stable
doors, bi fold doors, uPVC french doors, sliding doors, GRP composite
doors, entrance doors, front doors, residential doors, concertina
doors, front and back doors buy online in UK via Imperial Door which
is specialist of door supplier and manufacturer (home, residential
and
office).
we also offer decorative doors, modern doors, black composite doors,
black uPVC doors, white uPVC doors and wide range of uPVC doors,
composite doors, french doors, bifolding doors, PVC doors...etc.
If you want to buy then please contact us.
http://www.compositedoors.com/
On Apr 20, 7:55=A0am, "dan" <> wrote:
> I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
> by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
> shelf.
>
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
>
> --
The plywood door should not warp...as long as it does not get wet..
are u paintng it?
I would use 3/4 plywood, not that much difference in cost and you dont
have any worries...
Randy
http://nokeswoodworks.com
Swingman wrote:
...
> Providing you use straight stock for your door frames, multiple doors will
> use less expensive hinges, easier to install, and most likely stand a better
> chance of some warping not occurring over that 84" distance in even the best
> of circumstances.
I'd recommend rethinking the full length door scenario, anyway in favor
of two or three sectional doors. They weight and potential for twisting
as one factor, the sectional segregation the primary.
imo, $0.02, ymmv, etc., etc., ...
--
On 20 Apr 2008 12:55:38 GMT, "dan" <> wrote:
>I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
>by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
>fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
>shelf.
>
>3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
>well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
>"bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
The 3/4" is better.
>Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
Maybe, some doors warp, lots of factors to consider.
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 12:55:38 +0000, dan wrote:
> I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84" tall
> by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the center
> shelf.
Butt joints even with pocket screws are the weakest joints, common in
assembly line cheap cabinetry sold at home improvement centers. Shop
cabinets often hold heavy objects, tools, paints, etc., so a dado makes
more sense for a fixed shelf. Peg supports are usually used for movable
shelves in shop cabinets or bookshelves. Often the bottom and middle
shelf use a dado to help stabilize the alignment of the cabinet along
with a rabbeted back. I have had many shelves in the shop or garage fail
over the years with pocket screws or dowels vs. peg supports or a dado
joint which have never failed.
Pocket holes are most commonly used for vertical joints although I have
seen them before on the underside of shelves. I've always thought it was
a bad design because it inherently weakens the shelf to half it's
thickness as do dowels. Nothing wrong with it in a lightly loaded
application as long as you provide side to side tweaking support to the
entire cabinet as the butt and pocket joinery will provide very little
support for maintaining 90deg squareness.
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
3/4" if going with dado and as stated in other replies 3/4" is usually
superior quality product vs. 5/8".
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
It would probably warp, especially 5/8", and make the unit unstable from
the door's weight when open if the cabinet is lightly loaded, unless the
cabinet is screwed to the wall. Again as stated in other replies a rail
and stile panel door with 1/4" panel or multiple doors would be lighter,
cheaper for materials and more stable over time.
<dan> wrote:
> I'm going to build some cabinets for my shop. They are approx. 84"
> tall
> by 22" wide by 24" deep. The top, bottom and center shelves will be
> fixed (butt joints). I'm thinking about using a Kreg jig for the
> center
> shelf.
>
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just
> as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide
> enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
>
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
Back to the drawing board.
Your design as outlined above, is going to come back and bite you in
the rear end for many of the reasons already outlined by others.
Dados are your friend, butt joints are, ah well lets just say, not
suggested.
Plywood left unsupported, warps.
Period, end or report.
Large doors are for passageways.
Lew
<dan> wrote in message
> 3/4" is going to be very solid but very heavy. Would 5/8" work just as
> well? I'm thinking it would be but not sure if it would provide enough
> "bite" for pocket joinery (Kreg jig).
5/8ths sheet stock will certainly work, but you'd have a better chance of
your joinery/mounted hardware 'standing the test of time' with 3/4 thick
sheetgoods (remember, plywood is NOT the thickness advertised).
Also, without a face frame to stiffen your casework, you will want all the
sturdiness you can get out a cabinet that tall.
> Also, would a plywood door (84" X 22") remain flat or would it warp?
Contrary to conventional wisdom, plywood will warp, so be sure it is flat to
start off with, "finish" it equally on all surfaces, and you'll increase
your chances of it staying flat.
That said, if you're really concerned about "heavy", consider a separate
door for each section (1/4" plywood "panel" enclosed in a wood rail and
stile frame would be lighter, easy and inexpensive).
Providing you use straight stock for your door frames, multiple doors will
use less expensive hinges, easier to install, and most likely stand a better
chance of some warping not occurring over that 84" distance in even the best
of circumstances.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)