Ah well, at least it ain't politics.
I set up a wireless broadband connection at my place about the first
of the year. I bought Netgear stuff, that uses the 802.11G standard.
I initially had the router hooked to the desktop computer, (that is on
the third floor of my old stone house) but it didn't have enough range
to get signal to the shop ( which has a straight-line distance of
about one-hundred feet, including many stone walls on its journey) .
So, I moved the router and the modem to the second floor of the house
and I got intermittently decent signal strength out of this
arrangement.
For whatever reason, the intermittency has become less than
bearable,(mostly because I am limited to my position in the shop, if I
want to get adequate signal strength) and I have thought to add
something to the system to increase its range and signal strength.
My questions are various and thusly:
If the router is not hooked into a computer, but only is plugged into
a cable modem that directly connects to the coax cable feed of
Comcast, does the router enjoy all of the protection that it would, if
it were hooked to a computer through a NIC connection? (I'm thinking
no, and I apologize if this is a stupid question).
If the above question is answered in the negative, and it is necessary
to have the router connected to a computer to enjoy the benefits of
software level protection - what should I use to repeat, or boost the
signal, so that I can use the wireless connection anywhere in the
shop, rather than only on top of the bandsaw table - which is
inconvenient?
Even if the previously referenced question is answered in the
positive, I still have a weak signal and need to know how to deal with
that.
Finally, I am shamed to admit that I have left the network with
whatever defaults were in place during setup. I am not a security
freak but would like to know the appropriate measures that should be
taken to protect myself from those unwanted few, who might want to
access the network, for whatever reasons.
OBWW - I am writing this whilst the laptop is sitting on my workbench
(yes, I know that is lame).
As always, this OT inquiry is brought to you by some poor wooddorker
who truly does not know the answers to the above questions.
(watson - who almost always wishes that that he had been born smart,
instead of ugly).
Regards,
Tom.
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
> My questions are various and thusly:
>
> If the router is not hooked into a computer, but only is plugged into
> a cable modem that directly connects to the coax cable feed of
> Comcast, does the router enjoy all of the protection that it would, if
> it were hooked to a computer through a NIC connection? (I'm thinking
> no, and I apologize if this is a stupid question).
Yes and no. A router basically does NAT (network address translation) which
in short shields the IP address of your computer to the internet at large.
However, some routers (such as Linksys) have hooks to work with some
firewall software, such as ZoneAlarm Pro.
I'm not sure I fully understand your question. If there is no computer
hooked up to the router, then the router is idle and isn't doing anything.
Any connection attempts are simply unacknowledged.
> If the above question is answered in the negative, and it is necessary
> to have the router connected to a computer to enjoy the benefits of
> software level protection
The router, a hardware device, is different from a software firewall, such
as ZoneAlarm or NIS. The router will drop about 95% of the "hits" on your
computer, and a software firewall takes care of the rest. A software
firewall can do other functions, such as flagging and renaming potentially
harmful attachments, and limit access to and from the internet, by port, or
by individual program. I'd suggest you run both a router and a software
firewall.
> what should I use to repeat, or boost the
> signal, so that I can use the wireless connection anywhere in the
> shop, rather than only on top of the bandsaw table - which is
> inconvenient?
A few companies offer wireless signal boosters. The link shows one example
but I can't vouch for it's compatibility with your setup.
http://www.linksys.com/products/product.asp?grid=33&scid=38&prid=548
> Finally, I am shamed to admit that I have left the network with
> whatever defaults were in place during setup. I am not a security
> freak but would like to know the appropriate measures that should be
> taken to protect myself from those unwanted few, who might want to
> access the network, for whatever reasons.
As someone else mentioned (and depending on your router), you can limit
access to the network by MAC address. Every ethernet network device has a
unique MAC address (media access control). A network device would be a
router, network card, wireless card, etc. The MAC address for a network card
can be read by running winipcfg (windows 98x) or "ipconfig /all" from a
windows 2000 or XP command prompt. A typical MAC address would be something
like "00-E1-04-F7-27". You need to enable MAC address security on your
router, then enter the MAC address number for each wireless device you want
to provide access to on your network.
Hope this helps.
On Fri, 14 May 2004 19:34:42 -0400, Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ah well, at least it ain't politics.
>
> I set up a wireless broadband connection at my place about the first
> of the year. I bought Netgear stuff, that uses the 802.11G standard.
Snip of bunch-o-stuff
If you want to go over this with me by email, I'd be happy to go over
it in a fair amount of detail. I get my network feed
from over a mile away using a similar setup.
Roughly speaking, it goes like this:
Internet -> modem -> Wireless appliance / switch / hub -> wired computer
\
\
Wireless laptop
So, your network connection comes into your cable modem (broadband hub,
whatever), the output of that which normally just goes to your PC goes
to your wireless/wired hub (if that's what you have). If distance
on the wireless side is the issue, look at http://www.cantenna.com for
some ideas, and so on. Anyway, feel free to drop me an email if you'd
like.
Dave Hinz
On Sat, 15 May 2004 10:58:02 GMT, B a r r y <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 14 May 2004 23:43:36 -0500, "Dustmaker"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I'm going to use it to replace my 4 port ethernet router which I have used
>>with my cable modem for at least 3 years. I figure the world is going
>>wireless so I should get with the program.
>
> Why, to slow your network down?
> $50 wireless routers are much slower than a comparible wired setup.
And yet, even 802.11b is at 11 megabits/second, while even a T1 network
feed is only 1.5 megabits/second. Unless you're doing heavy-duty
fileserving internally, your ISP is going to be the limiting factor.
Dave Hinz
On Sat, 15 May 2004 07:35:38 -0400, RKON <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have had WiFi for 3 years and I have found that it is okay if you are
> right next to the Access Point. I have 5 computers in the house and 2 are
> only WiFi enabled. Ethernet is sooo much better.
I get my network feed by wireless (802.11b) from 1.1 miles away. The
technology is sound; perhaps your particular implementation is not.
Just bought a microsoft wireless -G router Model MN-700. Cost was under $50.
It is both a wireless access point (802.11g) and also has four ethernet 10
Base T. ports. With a device like this you could run a cable to the shop
and have wireless wherever it works.
I'm going to use it to replace my 4 port ethernet router which I have used
with my cable modem for at least 3 years. I figure the world is going
wireless so I should get with the program.
I like the fact that the Router acts as a firewall. However, you still need
Virus protection software on each computer.
.......................
Now if I could only get my new bandsaw to tension my blade properly. Need
to do some resawing and can't crank enough tension onto the blade. (Will
have to call Jet tech support on Monday). Why do these things always happen
on Friday night. I've tried two different blades (1/2 and 3/4" 3tpi)
I believe it does. I read the manual last night and they were discussing
132 bit encryption and all sorts of way to program the device to only accept
certain MAC addresses.
You might find the user's guide online. Look under
www.microsoft.com/broadbandnetworking
"Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 14 May 2004 23:43:36 -0500, Dustmaker wrote:
>
> > Just bought a microsoft wireless -G router Model MN-700. Cost was under
> > $50. It is both a wireless access point (802.11g) and also has four
> > ethernet 10 Base T. ports. With a device like this you could run a
cable
> > to the shop and have wireless wherever it works.
> >
> > I'm going to use it to replace my 4 port ethernet router which I have
used
> > with my cable modem for at least 3 years. I figure the world is going
> > wireless so I should get with the program.
> >
> > I like the fact that the Router acts as a firewall. However, you still
> > need Virus protection software on each computer.
> > .......................
> > Now if I could only get my new bandsaw to tension my blade properly.
Need
> > to do some resawing and can't crank enough tension onto the blade.
(Will
> > have to call Jet tech support on Monday). Why do these things always
> > happen on Friday night. I've tried two different blades (1/2 and 3/4"
> > 3tpi)
>
> Does it have strong authentication and encryption so the neighbors and
> drive byes arent using and viewing your network and it's traffic?
>
> -Doug
>
> --
> "A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always
> depend on the support of Paul." - George Bernard Shaw
>
I have had WiFi for 3 years and I have found that it is okay if you are
right next to the Access Point. I have 5 computers in the house and 2 are
only WiFi enabled. Ethernet is sooo much better.
Rich
PS. Went looking at a used Bandsaw last night and the guy also had a DJ20
for sale. Go Figure. He does have 600 BF of cherry and maple at $3.50 a BF.
if interested let me know
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 14 May 2004 23:43:36 -0500, "Dustmaker"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> >I'm going to use it to replace my 4 port ethernet router which I have
used
> >with my cable modem for at least 3 years. I figure the world is going
> >wireless so I should get with the program.
>
> Why, to slow your network down?
>
> $50 wireless routers are much slower than a comparible wired setup.
>
> Barry
Tom,
please find my comments inline:
"Tom Watson" wrote in message ...
> I initially had the router hooked to the desktop computer, (that is on
> the third floor of my old stone house) but it didn't have enough range
> to get signal to the shop ( which has a straight-line distance of
> about one-hundred feet, including many stone walls on its journey) .
> So, I moved the router and the modem to the second floor of the house
> and I got intermittently decent signal strength out of this
> arrangement.
Remember that the angle the signal travels through the wall to the receiver
(direct line) may increase the apparent thickness of the wall. 90deg is the
best angle.
> For whatever reason, the intermittency has become less than
> bearable,(mostly because I am limited to my position in the shop, if I
> want to get adequate signal strength) and I have thought to add
> something to the system to increase its range and signal strength.
>
> My questions are various and thusly:
>
> If the router is not hooked into a computer, but only is plugged into
> a cable modem that directly connects to the coax cable feed of
> Comcast, does the router enjoy all of the protection that it would, if
> it were hooked to a computer through a NIC connection? (I'm thinking
> no, and I apologize if this is a stupid question).
The type of protection is unnaffected by connection type (more on this a bit
further on).
> If the above question is answered in the negative, and it is necessary
> to have the router connected to a computer to enjoy the benefits of
> software level protection - what should I use to repeat, or boost the
> signal, so that I can use the wireless connection anywhere in the
> shop, rather than only on top of the bandsaw table - which is
> inconvenient?
Not sure, others will chime in for certain. Try these just for giggles:
- Use half a Pringles can as a parabolic reflector around the antennae to
help receive a stronger signal.
- http://www.tomshardware.com
- http://www.adslresource.co.uk links to one at
http://www.nublu.com/broadband/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=112&osCsid=aec75c50d2df8eee399dfec4046f206b
> Even if the previously referenced question is answered in the
> positive, I still have a weak signal and need to know how to deal with
> that.
Can you move the WAP (router) closer to mid way between all PCs?
> Finally, I am shamed to admit that I have left the network with
> whatever defaults were in place during setup. I am not a security
> freak but would like to know the appropriate measures that should be
> taken to protect myself from those unwanted few, who might want to
> access the network, for whatever reasons.
I suggest that what you need is to enable security and restrict access to
specified MAC addresses. The MAC address will limit the devices that can
connect to the router to only those you have specified.
Hope it helps.
Greg
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ah well, at least it ain't politics.
>
> I set up a wireless broadband connection at my place about the first
> of the year. I bought Netgear stuff, that uses the 802.11G standard.
>
> I initially had the router hooked to the desktop computer, (that is on
> the third floor of my old stone house) but it didn't have enough range
> to get signal to the shop ( which has a straight-line distance of
> about one-hundred feet, including many stone walls on its journey) .
> So, I moved the router and the modem to the second floor of the house
> and I got intermittently decent signal strength out of this
> arrangement.
>
> For whatever reason, the intermittency has become less than
> bearable,(mostly because I am limited to my position in the shop, if I
> want to get adequate signal strength) and I have thought to add
> something to the system to increase its range and signal strength.
>
> My questions are various and thusly:
>
> If the router is not hooked into a computer, but only is plugged into
> a cable modem that directly connects to the coax cable feed of
> Comcast, does the router enjoy all of the protection that it would, if
> it were hooked to a computer through a NIC connection? (I'm thinking
> no, and I apologize if this is a stupid question).
>
> If the above question is answered in the negative, and it is necessary
> to have the router connected to a computer to enjoy the benefits of
> software level protection - what should I use to repeat, or boost the
> signal, so that I can use the wireless connection anywhere in the
> shop, rather than only on top of the bandsaw table - which is
> inconvenient?
>
> Even if the previously referenced question is answered in the
> positive, I still have a weak signal and need to know how to deal with
> that.
>
> Finally, I am shamed to admit that I have left the network with
> whatever defaults were in place during setup. I am not a security
> freak but would like to know the appropriate measures that should be
> taken to protect myself from those unwanted few, who might want to
> access the network, for whatever reasons.
>
> OBWW - I am writing this whilst the laptop is sitting on my workbench
> (yes, I know that is lame).
>
> As always, this OT inquiry is brought to you by some poor wooddorker
> who truly does not know the answers to the above questions.
>
>
>
> (watson - who almost always wishes that that he had been born smart,
> instead of ugly).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Regards,
> Tom.
>
> Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
> tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
> http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
If you are using the router/access point solely to connect to the shop you
can simply add directional antennas to the equipment. This design
http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/template/ should cost you something
like $0.10 to make and is supposed to work better than the famous Pringle's
can antenna as well as being cheaper (and carbohydrate free).
One thing to beware of with wireless is that many types of equipment share
the allocated band and any of them, as well as any neighbors' wireless
networks, can easily interfere with even a good connection -- this is one of
the dirty little secrets that the wireless advocates don't talk about very
much. I understand that in some areas getting a 2.4gHz wireless setup to
work reliable over the length of even a small house is nearly impossible
because of all the other equipment in the neigborhood effectively jamming
it.
--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
http://johnmcgaw.com
"Greg Millen" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Tom,
> please find my comments inline:
>
> "Tom Watson" wrote in message ...
>> I initially had the router hooked to the desktop computer, (that is
>> on the third floor of my old stone house) but it didn't have enough
>> range to get signal to the shop ( which has a straight-line distance
>> of about one-hundred feet, including many stone walls on its journey)
>> . So, I moved the router and the modem to the second floor of the
>> house and I got intermittently decent signal strength out of this
>> arrangement.
>
>
> Remember that the angle the signal travels through the wall to the
> receiver (direct line) may increase the apparent thickness of the
> wall. 90deg is the best angle.
>
>
>> For whatever reason, the intermittency has become less than
>> bearable,(mostly because I am limited to my position in the shop, if
>> I want to get adequate signal strength) and I have thought to add
>> something to the system to increase its range and signal strength.
>>
>> My questions are various and thusly:
>>
>> If the router is not hooked into a computer, but only is plugged into
>> a cable modem that directly connects to the coax cable feed of
>> Comcast, does the router enjoy all of the protection that it would,
>> if it were hooked to a computer through a NIC connection? (I'm
>> thinking no, and I apologize if this is a stupid question).
>
> The type of protection is unnaffected by connection type (more on this
> a bit further on).
>
>> If the above question is answered in the negative, and it is
>> necessary to have the router connected to a computer to enjoy the
>> benefits of software level protection - what should I use to repeat,
>> or boost the signal, so that I can use the wireless connection
>> anywhere in the shop, rather than only on top of the bandsaw table -
>> which is inconvenient?
>
> Not sure, others will chime in for certain. Try these just for
> giggles:
>
> - Use half a Pringles can as a parabolic reflector around the antennae
> to help receive a stronger signal.
>
> - http://www.tomshardware.com
>
> - http://www.adslresource.co.uk links to one at
> http://www.nublu.com/broadband/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=112
> &osCsid=aec75c50d2df8eee399dfec4046f206b
>
>
>> Even if the previously referenced question is answered in the
>> positive, I still have a weak signal and need to know how to deal
>> with that.
>
> Can you move the WAP (router) closer to mid way between all PCs?
>
>> Finally, I am shamed to admit that I have left the network with
>> whatever defaults were in place during setup. I am not a security
>> freak but would like to know the appropriate measures that should be
>> taken to protect myself from those unwanted few, who might want to
>> access the network, for whatever reasons.
>
> I suggest that what you need is to enable security and restrict access
> to specified MAC addresses. The MAC address will limit the devices
> that can connect to the router to only those you have specified.
>
> Hope it helps.
>
> Greg
>
>
Everything that Greg indicated agrees with my experience. The Pringles can
is a quick & dirty way to build the directional antenna, which you can buy
at the local electronics discounter for maybe $40, including some handy
cable adapters.
We've got a similar network running between my son's place across the
street, where he does the video editing, and my place, where we have the
high speed internet connection. The MAC filtering is a good start. So is
the notion that data layer encryption could/should be run where
appropriate.
That last part is worth thinking about. You really are looking to prevent
a couple of things. #1 - evil-doers accessing your systems, with all of
the possible ramifications therein, and #2 - someone posing as you in some
way, doing things which are illegal, distasteful and/or slimey. You REALLY
don't want to have to defend yourself against a lawsuit or criminal
prosecution, regarding the dark side of Al Gore's Internet. Unfortunately,
the action's of our resident troll are only the beginning....
But the good news is that a $150 wirelss router/firewall combination, set
up like Greg says, will keep most of the bad guys out, and should be
presumptive indication to any law enforcement that you were trying to
secure your piece of the 'net, should real nastiness occur.
Now, back to happier topics. Any one got a good recommendation on a book
about cutting my own veneer? I was recently given a small amount of some
really spectacular spalted maple.....
Patriarch,
who, in real life, has only been networking about twenty-two years now.
Tom try an antenna like this one:
http://www.dlink.com/products/?pid=54
I set this particular one up in the shop and I get great reception
through 4 cinder block walls and about 500 feet of distance. All the
wireless manufactures make similar products so you should be able to find
one suitable for your system. I have a dell laptop and dell wireless card
with a D-link wireless router and the combo works great. Hope I could be of
some help>
CHRIS
"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ah well, at least it ain't politics.
>
> I set up a wireless broadband connection at my place about the first
> of the year. I bought Netgear stuff, that uses the 802.11G standard.
>
> I initially had the router hooked to the desktop computer, (that is on
> the third floor of my old stone house) but it didn't have enough range
> to get signal to the shop ( which has a straight-line distance of
> about one-hundred feet, including many stone walls on its journey) .
> So, I moved the router and the modem to the second floor of the house
> and I got intermittently decent signal strength out of this
> arrangement.
>
> For whatever reason, the intermittency has become less than
> bearable,(mostly because I am limited to my position in the shop, if I
> want to get adequate signal strength) and I have thought to add
> something to the system to increase its range and signal strength.
>
> My questions are various and thusly:
>
> If the router is not hooked into a computer, but only is plugged into
> a cable modem that directly connects to the coax cable feed of
> Comcast, does the router enjoy all of the protection that it would, if
> it were hooked to a computer through a NIC connection? (I'm thinking
> no, and I apologize if this is a stupid question).
>
> If the above question is answered in the negative, and it is necessary
> to have the router connected to a computer to enjoy the benefits of
> software level protection - what should I use to repeat, or boost the
> signal, so that I can use the wireless connection anywhere in the
> shop, rather than only on top of the bandsaw table - which is
> inconvenient?
>
> Even if the previously referenced question is answered in the
> positive, I still have a weak signal and need to know how to deal with
> that.
>
> Finally, I am shamed to admit that I have left the network with
> whatever defaults were in place during setup. I am not a security
> freak but would like to know the appropriate measures that should be
> taken to protect myself from those unwanted few, who might want to
> access the network, for whatever reasons.
>
> OBWW - I am writing this whilst the laptop is sitting on my workbench
> (yes, I know that is lame).
>
> As always, this OT inquiry is brought to you by some poor wooddorker
> who truly does not know the answers to the above questions.
>
>
>
> (watson - who almost always wishes that that he had been born smart,
> instead of ugly).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Regards,
> Tom.
>
> Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
> tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
> http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Tom Watson <[email protected]> writes:
> I initially had the router hooked to the desktop computer
1/4" or 1/2" shaft?
> If the router is not hooked into a computer, but only is plugged into
> a cable modem that directly connects to the coax cable feed of
> Comcast, does the router enjoy all of the protection that it would, if
> it were hooked to a computer through a NIC connection? (I'm thinking
> no, and I apologize if this is a stupid question).
The router is likely a firewall as well. Does it have Ethernet as well as wireless? If so, run a cable to a hub, and hook the router to the hub.
>
> If the above question is answered in the negative, and it is necessary
> to have the router connected to a computer to enjoy the benefits of
> software level protection - what should I use to repeat, or boost the
> signal, so that I can use the wireless connection anywhere in the
> shop, rather than only on top of the bandsaw table - which is
> inconvenient?
>
Some access points can have a signal booster, and/or a larger antenna.
Or you can run a cable to another access point.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
B a r r y wrote:
> On Fri, 14 May 2004 23:43:36 -0500, "Dustmaker"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I'm going to use it to replace my 4 port ethernet router which I have used
>>with my cable modem for at least 3 years. I figure the world is going
>>wireless so I should get with the program.
>
> Why, to slow your network down?
>
> $50 wireless routers are much slower than a comparible wired setup.
So? They're still an almighty lot faster than the cable modem.
> Barry
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
B a r r y wrote:
> On Mon, 24 May 2004 21:54:00 -0400, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>B a r r y wrote:
>
>>>
>>> Why, to slow your network down?
>>>
>>> $50 wireless routers are much slower than a comparible wired setup.
>>
>>So? They're still an almighty lot faster than the cable modem.
>
> Right you are. I guess you share NOTHING other than the Internet
> connection? I share printers, files, audio feeds, burners, etc...
> Once the network is in, the extra uses become apparent.
What difference does it make what _I_ share? The original poster did not
say anything about wanting to do any of the things that you do.
> Barry
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Fri, 14 May 2004 23:43:36 -0500, Dustmaker wrote:
> Just bought a microsoft wireless -G router Model MN-700. Cost was under
> $50. It is both a wireless access point (802.11g) and also has four
> ethernet 10 Base T. ports. With a device like this you could run a cable
> to the shop and have wireless wherever it works.
>
> I'm going to use it to replace my 4 port ethernet router which I have used
> with my cable modem for at least 3 years. I figure the world is going
> wireless so I should get with the program.
>
> I like the fact that the Router acts as a firewall. However, you still
> need Virus protection software on each computer.
> .......................
> Now if I could only get my new bandsaw to tension my blade properly. Need
> to do some resawing and can't crank enough tension onto the blade. (Will
> have to call Jet tech support on Monday). Why do these things always
> happen on Friday night. I've tried two different blades (1/2 and 3/4"
> 3tpi)
Does it have strong authentication and encryption so the neighbors and
drive byes arent using and viewing your network and it's traffic?
-Doug
--
"A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always
depend on the support of Paul." - George Bernard Shaw
On Mon, 24 May 2004 21:54:00 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>B a r r y wrote:
>>
>> Why, to slow your network down?
>>
>> $50 wireless routers are much slower than a comparible wired setup.
>
>So? They're still an almighty lot faster than the cable modem.
Right you are. I guess you share NOTHING other than the Internet
connection? I share printers, files, audio feeds, burners, etc...
Once the network is in, the extra uses become apparent.
Barry
On Fri, 14 May 2004 19:34:42 -0400, Tom Watson <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>If the router is not hooked into a computer, but only is plugged into
>a cable modem that directly connects to the coax cable feed of
>Comcast, does the router enjoy all of the protection that it would, if
>it were hooked to a computer through a NIC connection? (I'm thinking
>no, and I apologize if this is a stupid question).
Run a cable to the shop and be done with it. A mechanic like you
should will no problem doing this. At the most, you'll need to
purchase a long 3/8" "installers" drill bit.
The router dosen't get hooked up to the computer, only the modem. The
router then assumes the duties of logging in, as a single computer
would. All of the computers then deal with the router as a gateway.
You can usually set up the router via a web page.
Even though Comcast attempts to steal phone and Internet customers
from my employer on a daily basis, I will do all I can to help you get
set up.
Email me directly @ nospam @ snet dot net, and I'll reply with phone
numbers where you can reach me.
Barry
On Fri, 14 May 2004 19:34:42 -0400, Tom Watson <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Ah well, at least it ain't politics.
>
>I set up a wireless broadband connection at my place about the first
>of the year. I bought Netgear stuff, that uses the 802.11G standard.
>
>I initially had the router hooked to the desktop computer, (that is on
>the third floor of my old stone house) but it didn't have enough range
>to get signal to the shop ( which has a straight-line distance of
>about one-hundred feet, including many stone walls on its journey) .
>So, I moved the router and the modem to the second floor of the house
>and I got intermittently decent signal strength out of this
>arrangement.
>
>For whatever reason, the intermittency has become less than
>bearable,(mostly because I am limited to my position in the shop, if I
>want to get adequate signal strength) and I have thought to add
>something to the system to increase its range and signal strength.
>
>My questions are various and thusly:
>
>If the router is not hooked into a computer, but only is plugged into
>a cable modem that directly connects to the coax cable feed of
>Comcast, does the router enjoy all of the protection that it would, if
>it were hooked to a computer through a NIC connection? (I'm thinking
>no, and I apologize if this is a stupid question).
if I understand the question, you want the router attached directly to
the cable modem. the first level of security is provided by the
router. the router protects the computers, not the other way around.
>
>If the above question is answered in the negative, and it is necessary
>to have the router connected to a computer to enjoy the benefits of
>software level protection - what should I use to repeat, or boost the
>signal, so that I can use the wireless connection anywhere in the
>shop, rather than only on top of the bandsaw table - which is
>inconvenient?
consider establishing a computer station in the shop and running
ethernet cable to it.
>
>Even if the previously referenced question is answered in the
>positive, I still have a weak signal and need to know how to deal with
>that.
>
>Finally, I am shamed to admit that I have left the network with
>whatever defaults were in place during setup. I am not a security
>freak but would like to know the appropriate measures that should be
>taken to protect myself from those unwanted few, who might want to
>access the network, for whatever reasons.
RTFM.......
this might help (or not)
http://www.intranetjournal.com/articles/200307/ij_07_10_03a.html
http://www.informit.com/articles/article.asp?p=28694&seqNum=3
http://techupdate.zdnet.com/techupdate/stories/main/0,14179,2881801,00.html?tag=tu.tk.6586.f1
http://kbserver.netgear.com/main.asp
http://www.computerworld.com/mobiletopics/mobile/story/0,10801,86951,00.html
>
>OBWW - I am writing this whilst the laptop is sitting on my workbench
>(yes, I know that is lame).
>
>As always, this OT inquiry is brought to you by some poor wooddorker
>who truly does not know the answers to the above questions.
>
>
>
>(watson - who almost always wishes that that he had been born smart,
>instead of ugly).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Regards,
>Tom.
>
>Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
>tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
>http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
On Fri, 14 May 2004 23:43:36 -0500, "Dustmaker"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm going to use it to replace my 4 port ethernet router which I have used
>with my cable modem for at least 3 years. I figure the world is going
>wireless so I should get with the program.
Why, to slow your network down?
$50 wireless routers are much slower than a comparible wired setup.
Barry