This evening I measured the one of my plywood blades, the arbor, and
the blade support on the right side of the arbor.
The plywood blade was .0013 in runout -5 on the left and +8 on the
right
The arbor runout was .0005 (=== in diagram measure at 2 site)
the blade support (000 in diagram, measured at @ site) was .0037, I
was able to push it in close to .003 to the right but I can feel no
play.
ascii art
@000 <-- supports blade
000
000
===2000 == is arbor
====000
000
000
000
Are the runouts within tolerace for a tablesaw?
Thanks
Alan
your arbor runout is fantastic.
your blade runout is also great. I can't believe you are measure to 10
thousandths!
try USING it instead of measuring it.
dave
Alan W wrote:
> This evening I measured the one of my plywood blades, the arbor, and
> the blade support on the right side of the arbor.
>
> The plywood blade was .0013 in runout -5 on the left and +8 on the
> right
>
> The arbor runout was .0005 (=== in diagram measure at 2 site)
>
> the blade support (000 in diagram, measured at @ site) was .0037, I
> was able to push it in close to .003 to the right but I can feel no
> play.
>
>
>
> ascii art
>
>
>
> @000 <-- supports blade
> 000
> 000
> ===2000 == is arbor
> ====000
> 000
> 000
> 000
>
> Are the runouts within tolerace for a tablesaw?
>
> Thanks
>
> Alan
Dear Alan,
> Are the runouts within tolerace for a tablesaw?
<snip>
Um, who cares?
All that matters is how the saw cuts? Does it cut well?
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
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"Bruce C." <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I suspect that you have too many zeros - most folks don't have measuring
> tools to read that level of resolution at least repeatably. If your numbers
> are truely correct then you have an outstanding TS.
>
You are correct I did have one too many zeros there .013 for the
plywood blade runout.
I have a dial indicator and magnetic base, just spent some time
checking the fence to miter slot, and find it to be .02 from the front
of the blade vs the back of the blade. Unfortunately it is .02 closer
at the back, so I will likely buy some longer cap screws tomorrow and
some small washers to allow me to reset the vega more exactly.
I measured my rip blade to be .028, I will querry the sharpening shop
if that is acceptable. I am awaiting a Forrest Woodworker II in 5
days time.
>
> Um, who cares?
>
> All that matters is how the saw cuts? Does it cut well?
>
> Thanks,
>
> David.
>
That is a subjective thing, does it cut straight? Sure measureable
with the dial caliper to within a couple hundreds of an inch. Do I
have a few marks from the saw blade, most of the time. I
experiemented with a plain old piece of 2x4 a few times ripping 1/8's
of an inch off. With a featherboard about half the time I was able to
get no blade marks on the cut off portion. On the waste portion I
often had a ring or two towards the end where they seperated.
I will have to work on my technique to push both pieces through at the
same time, or perhaps invest in the new gripper to push right by the
blade.
I do not own a jointer and am working on getting good enough to not
need one.
Alan
Dear Alan,
> With a featherboard about half the time I was able to
> get no blade marks on the cut off portion. On the waste portion I
> often had a ring or two towards the end where they seperated.
Try this product,
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=30077&category=1,41080,41162&abspage=1&ccurrency=1&SID=
It is a blade truing disk that can account for problems with the arbour not
being perfectly true.
I also have a new favourite blade, the CMT General. I prefer it to the Ridge
Carbide, and I cannot see any difference between it and my Forrest, except
that it is cheaper.
With that disk and a top of the line blade, you should get perfect cuts.
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
a whole new ballgame now that you dropped a zero!
now the numbers suck!
take it back - the arbor runout is lousy
so is the blade's runout
no wonder you were concerned.
dave
Alan W wrote:
> "Bruce C." <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>>I suspect that you have too many zeros - most folks don't have measuring
>>tools to read that level of resolution at least repeatably. If your numbers
>>are truely correct then you have an outstanding TS.
>>
>
>
> You are correct I did have one too many zeros there .013 for the
> plywood blade runout.
>
> I have a dial indicator and magnetic base, just spent some time
> checking the fence to miter slot, and find it to be .02 from the front
> of the blade vs the back of the blade. Unfortunately it is .02 closer
> at the back, so I will likely buy some longer cap screws tomorrow and
> some small washers to allow me to reset the vega more exactly.
>
> I measured my rip blade to be .028, I will querry the sharpening shop
> if that is acceptable. I am awaiting a Forrest Woodworker II in 5
> days time.
I suspect that you have too many zeros - most folks don't have measuring
tools to read that level of resolution at least repeatably. If your numbers
are truely correct then you have an outstanding TS.
Assuming that your measurements are what I think they represent (13
thousanths), then what you have is fine. Measurement of the blade is useful
only for evaluating the blade and its current mounting. You may be able to
reduce the runout on that blade some more by careful tuning, but it is not
necessary (is the printed blade label bearing on the blade support?).
Measure the arbor and blade support runout several times - to make sure that
your process is consistent and that the numbers are repeatable. Look for
dings and deep scratches on the mating surfaces (these can be restored by
carefull stoning). If you are going to do any corrective action, fix the big
numbers first (blade support) - but only after you are sure that you get
consistent measurements on several occasions.
Bruce
"Alan W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This evening I measured the one of my plywood blades, the arbor, and
> the blade support on the right side of the arbor.
>
> The plywood blade was .0013 in runout -5 on the left and +8 on the
> right
>
> The arbor runout was .0005 (=== in diagram measure at 2 site)
>
> the blade support (000 in diagram, measured at @ site) was .0037, I
> was able to push it in close to .003 to the right but I can feel no
> play.
>
>
>
> ascii art
>
>
>
> @000 <-- supports blade
> 000
> 000
> ===2000 == is arbor
> ====000
> 000
> 000
> 000
>
> Are the runouts within tolerace for a tablesaw?
>
> Thanks
>
> Alan
Alan, can you describe the process you use to make these measurements?
Somehow I get the feeling that you may be measuring from the miter slot to
the front of the blade then from the miter slot to the back of the blade and
reporting the difference as runout.
Can you describe your measurements as "Took 10 readings, average error =
.020, smallest = .017 and largest = .022".
I don't remember you specifically describing the relative alignment between
the blade and miter slot.
About your fence alignment issue - What kind of cut do you get when the
fence is moved to the other side of the blade (would this give you .008 gap
at the backside of the blade)?
If you fasten the mag base to the miter gauge and run the indicator along
the fence front to back - how much play (side to side travel) do you see in
the miter gauge (at several places along the slot)? What variations do you
see in the fence? If you reposition the fence, are the readings constant?
How rigid does the fence lock-up? Now that you have that set of numbers,
break down the set-up and go get a cup of coffee and a muffin left over from
breakfast. Go back and take the measurement again - why is it different?
Bruce
"Alan W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Bruce C." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > I suspect that you have too many zeros - most folks don't have measuring
> > tools to read that level of resolution at least repeatably. If your
numbers
> > are truely correct then you have an outstanding TS.
> >
>
> You are correct I did have one too many zeros there .013 for the
> plywood blade runout.
>
> I have a dial indicator and magnetic base, just spent some time
> checking the fence to miter slot, and find it to be .02 from the front
> of the blade vs the back of the blade. Unfortunately it is .02 closer
> at the back, so I will likely buy some longer cap screws tomorrow and
> some small washers to allow me to reset the vega more exactly.
>
> I measured my rip blade to be .028, I will querry the sharpening shop
> if that is acceptable. I am awaiting a Forrest Woodworker II in 5
> days time.