Spent some time with SketchUp this evening, and some of the ideas here, and
here's what I've personally about decided to go with for an assembly table:
www.e-woodshop.net/files/AssemblyTable2.jpg
www.e-woodshop.net/files/AssemblyTable.jpg
I'm feeling cheap, so the top will probably be a cut down 30" x 6' 8" hollow
core door, which I already have in storage, and with a laminate on the
surface. The rest is just tubafours.
Castors should put at just the right height for my purposes, it's narrow
enough to move around the existing workbench and out the door, and a 3"
overhang all around allows a clamping hold. I like the 30" width because you
can easily use cauls and the table edge to clamp across a work piece at that
width, and you can always throw a wider top on temporarily if necessary.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" wrote
>
> Castors should put at just the right height for my purposes, it's narrow
> enough to move around the existing workbench and out the door, and a 3"
> overhang all around allows a clamping hold. I like the 30" width because
> you can easily use cauls and the table edge to clamp across a work piece
> at that width, and you can always throw a wider top on temporarily if
> necessary.
>
>
Just a suggestion. If for any reason you may want to hammer or apply any
kind of stress to the table surface, you could damage the casters. What I
have done was to use a wider board in each corner. That way If I needed it
solid, I could just lift it up and slid a block underneath. The caster would
then clear the floor and the table becomes very solid.
"Swingman" wrote
> "Lee Michaels" wrote
>
>> Just a suggestion. If for any reason you may want to hammer or apply any
>> kind of stress to the table surface, you could damage the casters. What
>> I have done was to use a wider board in each corner. That way If I needed
>> it solid, I could just lift it up and slid a block underneath. The caster
>> would then clear the floor and the table becomes very solid.
>
> The castors in the drawing are symbolic, and although the ones I have will
> hold up an elephant, you're right, few castors will provide the solidity
> that a block of wood would, and the need may well arise.
>
> Good idea ... thanks!
>
No problem, just passing on what I have seen a few shops in my time. I have
seen this idea with the blocks attached to the corners with nylon rope, so
they will not be misplaced. I have also seen this idea with a 2 X 4 under
the bench, clearly marked to prevent it from being poached for another
purpose, and just thrown under the end when needed.
Symbolic castors, eh?? It seems to me I bought a stereo rack once that had
"symbolic castors". They didn't work worth a damn. :)
"Lee Michaels" wrote
> Just a suggestion. If for any reason you may want to hammer or apply any
> kind of stress to the table surface, you could damage the casters. What I
> have done was to use a wider board in each corner. That way If I needed it
> solid, I could just lift it up and slid a block underneath. The caster
> would then clear the floor and the table becomes very solid.
The castors in the drawing are symbolic, and although the ones I have will
hold up an elephant, you're right, few castors will provide the solidity
that a block of wood would, and the need may well arise.
Good idea ... thanks!
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" wrote:
> I'm feeling cheap, so the top will probably be a cut down 30" x 6'
> 8" hollow core door, which I already have in storage, and with a
> laminate on the surface. The rest is just tubafours.
I'd throw a replaceable 1/4 hardboard over that interior door skin
rather than a laminate to toughen up the work surface a bit.
Lew