Craftsman Table Saw ---- What's the yellow circle for?

On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>> replacement parts?
>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>> anymore.
>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>
>>
>>
>> Google is your helper here:
>>
>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>
> Were these flex drive models any good?
>
> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>


I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...

On Monday, August 12, 2019 at 2:30:17 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> dpb <[email protected]> writes:
> >On 8/11/2019 2:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 1:30:23 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
>
> >Dad, being the first of the children born on the farm (third overall)
> >used to say he was "born in the coal room" because the house was as yet
> >unfinished and they were living in the basement while remainder was
> >being built at the time he was born. The room that was used ended up
> >being the coal bin for a while after the house was done and the family
> >moved upstairs...
> >
> >But the first main pipeline was laid across the pasture just to the SE
> >of the house within 10-15 years and grandpa got a tap as part of the
> >right of way deal and converted well before I was born probably another
> >15-20 years anyways. Initially, all of those allowed cost-free gas for
> >domestic use but that got broken by the successor company of the
> >original almost 30 year ago now. Never could see how they could be
> >allowed to do that, but the courts said it was legal through some
> >loophole in how the contracts were written. I wasn't home at the time
> >so don't know all the tricks they pulled nor how much was paid to whom.
> >
>
>
> My Uncle had a gravity "octopus" woodburner in the farmhouse basement until sometime in
> the early 1980's when he switched to propane. Narrow little stairway down to
> a cramped cellar several times a day to feed the beast.... Cutting cordwood all
> summer on the hills (and some of that was before hydraulic splitters).

My house used to have a "hybrid" forced air/gravity furnace...more or less.

The original gas valve had a "locking tab" on it that allowed the user to open
the valve manually and light the burners during a power outage. Since there was
no power for the blower, it basically worked like a gravity system.

Of course, no blowers meant nothing (except for gravity) to take the heat
away from the heat exchanger, so there was a pretty strict duty cycle listed
in the manual. Obviously it was completely dependent on the user to adhere
to the duty cycle. Not the safest set-up ever designed.

When the furnace was 30-something years old, the gas valve went bad and I
couldn't afford a whole new system, so I had to have the valve replaced.
The repair guy laughed when I asked if he could get an "original" gas
valve so that I wouldn't lose that feature. He mentioned a "code" or
something like that. ;-)

On Friday, August 9, 2019 at 11:24:58 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 8/8/2019 8:54 PM, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
> > On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
> >>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
> >>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson=C2=A0 wrote:
> >>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas=
for
> >>>> replacement parts?
> >>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I nee=
d a
> >>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).=C2=A0 It is not supporte=
d by Sears
> >>>> anymore.
> >>>> Thank you, Orson
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Google is your helper here:
> >>>
> >>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
> >>
> >> Were these flex drive models any good?
> >>
> >> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt dri=
ven
> >> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never=
saw
> >> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
> >>
> >=20
> >=20
> > I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say th=
at I have a 25 year
> > old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I =
ripped out the right wing,
> > built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installe=
d a Woodworker II ... IOW
> > the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron=
wing ...
> >=20
>=20
> LOL, that's the only way to make some Craftsman TS's worth using. I had=
=20
> an 83 Craftsman 1 hp belt drive TS. I replaced the wings, stand, and fen=
ce.

Did anyone make a fence that was worse than the stock fence on that entire
line of Craftsman contractor saws?

You'd have to try really hard...actually do it on purpose. ;-)

On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>> anymore.
>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>
>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>
>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>
>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>
>>
>>
>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>
> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>
> Blade varies based on usage.

Get A WWII already. ;~)

I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.

For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.

If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
circular saw.



>
> The only I've had to replace was an arbor bearing and that was earlier
> this year. I had a spare arbor, brand new, so I replaced both bearings
> and the arbor as long as I had it apart.
>
> I keep meaning to buy a link belt but I never seem to remember.
>

On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>> anymore.
>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>
>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>
>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>
>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>
>>
>>
>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>
> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>
> Blade varies based on usage.
>
> The only I've had to replace was an arbor bearing and that was earlier
> this year. I had a spare arbor, brand new, so I replaced both bearings
> and the arbor as long as I had it apart.
>
> I keep meaning to buy a link belt but I never seem to remember.
>

BTY I never put a link belt on the TS, the belt was almost perfectly
round and never took a set.
BUT I did replace the belts in my DP with a link belt, the DP runs much
smoother although noisier on higher speeds.

On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 9:47:48 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
> On 8/10/2019 10:06 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Saturday, August 10, 2019 at 8:44:01 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
> >> On 8/10/2019 6:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >>> On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:37:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >>>>> On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wro=
te:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wr=
ote:
> >>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk w=
rote:
> >>>>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson=C2=A0 wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any goo=
d ideas for
> >>>>>>>>>>> replacement parts?
> >>>>>>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 an=
d I need a
> >>>>>>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).=C2=A0 It is not s=
upported by Sears
> >>>>>>>>>>> anymore.
> >>>>>>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> Google is your helper here:
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the b=
elt driven
> >>>>>>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years=
. Never saw
> >>>>>>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will=
say that I have a 25 year
> >>>>>>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then ag=
ain, I ripped out the right wing,
> >>>>>>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, i=
nstalled a Woodworker II ... IOW
> >>>>>>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left ca=
st iron wing ...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and De=
lta fence.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Blade varies based on usage.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Get A WWII already. ;~)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I ha=
d one
> >>>>>> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest d=
ado set.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
> >>>>> grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud =
set
> >>>>> for MDF, and such.
> >>>>
> >>>> When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the f=
lat
> >>>> grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.
> >>>
> >>> But instead of buying another ATB, I bought the #1 grind. Now I
> >>> sharpen the one that needs it.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one W=
WII
> >>>>>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out whe=
n one
> >>>>>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's we=
ll
> >>>>> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.
> >>>>
> >>>> I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to reall=
y
> >>>> sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
> >>>> saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.
> >>>
> >>> The Freud blade is really nice, too, and designed specifically for th=
e
> >>> task.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
> >>>>>> circular saw.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-)=
I
> >>>>> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
> >>>> Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.
> >>>
> >>> I don't think I want "anything that they find" in my basement. Sound=
s
> >>> like something for a seawall.
> >>
> >> I guess you'se guys would have a hard time with what I reclaim/reuse..=
. :)
> >>
> >> 100+ yr old 16-20 footers are far better material underneath the old
> >> paint and weather than anything cut now...of course, this is fascia
> >> material for the re-doing of the house not furniture, but still...when=
a
> >> 1x8 16-ft has nary a knot and 1/32" growth rings, it's pretty easy to
> >> run it thru the planer and skim of the top as opposed to purchasing
> >> "select" material at almost $50/piece and nothing over 14-ft available=
.
> >>
> >> :)
> >>
> >> I did use the old Model 13 Rockwell/Delta planer for the rough work
> >> rather than the PM 180 as it's quite a lot cheaper to replace the
> >> smaller than the larger if do get a chip...I got lucky though, gotten
> >> through almost all to be reused immediately and so far, haven't missed
> >> anything before going thru...
> >>
> >=20
> > I really, really hope you haven't jinxed yourself. :-0
>=20
> Yes, that would be good... :)
>=20
> > Good luck with the rest of the boards.
>=20
> Indeed. I've got ~800 running feet of 3" bead board that was soffit=20
> that we replaced of which perhaps 2/3-rds is mostly reclaimable.=20
> Debated for long time about replacing or trying to redo in place and=20
> finally decided to put new material up as the time that would be=20
> required to strip and retouch joints in place just too much...plus, it's=
=20
> good to get the Dirty Thirties and Filthy Fifties accumulated dirt down=
=20
> as well...as much as 2-3" in places on top of soffit.

Many years ago I helped demo a farmhouse kitchen. Late 1800's brick house,
where the "woodshed" was right off the kitchen and inside the brick=20
perimeter. The owner's were expanding the kitchen by incorporating the=20
woodshed into the space.=20

When we pulled the old wainscoting off the walls we found that the stud bay=
s=20
were almost half full with critter debris, droppings and the occasional
carcass. 3' - 4' up the wall, every bay. What a mess to clean up, since it=
=20
was all inside the house. Shovels, dust masks and lots of contractor bags.=
=20

Best part of the weekend:

The old fireplace was still in the wall between the kitchen and the woodshe=
d.
A few guys went up on the roof and into the attic and tore the chimney down=
=20
to the attic floor. Then they went into the woodshed and wrap chains around
the fireplace supports, hooked them up to 2 tractors and pulled the base ou=
t,
dropping the rest of the chimney into the kitchen/woodshed. Lot's of noise,
but when the dust cleared we see the sky 2 stories above the kitchen.

My sons, 10 and 12 at the time, were there. Now in their 30's, it's somethi=
ng=20
they still talk about.

On Friday, August 9, 2019 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
> >> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
> >>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
> >>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson=C2=A0 wrote:
> >>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good idea=
s for
> >>>>> replacement parts?
> >>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I ne=
ed a
> >>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).=C2=A0 It is not support=
ed by Sears
> >>>>> anymore.
> >>>>> Thank you, Orson
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Google is your helper here:
> >>>>
> >>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
> >>>
> >>> Were these flex drive models any good?
> >>>
> >>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt dr=
iven
> >>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Neve=
r saw
> >>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say t=
hat I have a 25 year
> >> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I=
ripped out the right wing,
> >> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, install=
ed a Woodworker II ... IOW
> >> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iro=
n wing ...
> >=20
> > That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fe=
nce.
> >=20
> > Blade varies based on usage.
>=20
> Get A WWII already. ;~)
>=20
> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one=
=20
> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set=
.
>=20
> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII=20
> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one=
=20
> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
>=20
> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman=20
> circular saw.
>=20
>=20

I thought you used your green track saw for cutting everything. ;-)

On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
> >> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
> >>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson=C2=A0 wrote:
> >>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas =
for
> >>> replacement parts?
> >>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need=
a
> >>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).=C2=A0 It is not supported=
by Sears
> >>> anymore.
> >>> Thank you, Orson
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> Google is your helper here:
> >>
> >> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
> >=20
> > Were these flex drive models any good?
> >=20
> > My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driv=
en
> > models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never =
saw
> > a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
> >=20
>=20
>=20
> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that=
I have a 25 year
> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ri=
pped out the right wing,
> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed =
a Woodworker II ... IOW
> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron w=
ing ...

That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.

Blade varies based on usage.

The only I've had to replace was an arbor bearing and that was earlier=20
this year. I had a spare arbor, brand new, so I replaced both bearings
and the arbor as long as I had it apart.

I keep meaning to buy a link belt but I never seem to remember.

On Saturday, August 10, 2019 at 8:44:01 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
> On 8/10/2019 6:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> > On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:37:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> > wrote:
> >=20
> >> On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >>> On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote=
:
> >>>
> >>>> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrot=
e:
> >>>>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wro=
te:
> >>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson=C2=A0 wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good =
ideas for
> >>>>>>>>> replacement parts?
> >>>>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and =
I need a
> >>>>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).=C2=A0 It is not sup=
ported by Sears
> >>>>>>>>> anymore.
> >>>>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Google is your helper here:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the bel=
t driven
> >>>>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. =
Never saw
> >>>>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will s=
ay that I have a 25 year
> >>>>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then agai=
n, I ripped out the right wing,
> >>>>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, ins=
talled a Woodworker II ... IOW
> >>>>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast=
iron wing ...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delt=
a fence.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Blade varies based on usage.
> >>>>
> >>>> Get A WWII already. ;~)
> >>>>
> >>>> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had =
one
> >>>> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dad=
o set.
> >>>
> >>> Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
> >>> grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud se=
t
> >>> for MDF, and such.
> >>
> >> When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the fla=
t
> >> grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.
> >=20
> > But instead of buying another ATB, I bought the #1 grind. Now I
> > sharpen the one that needs it.
> >>
> >>
> >>>>
> >>>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWI=
I
> >>>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when =
one
> >>>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
> >>>
> >>> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
> >>> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.
> >>
> >> I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
> >> sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
> >> saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.
> >=20
> > The Freud blade is really nice, too, and designed specifically for the
> > task.
> >>>
> >>>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
> >>>> circular saw.
> >>>
> >>> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) =
I
> >>> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
> >>>
> >>
> >> I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
> >> Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.
> >=20
> > I don't think I want "anything that they find" in my basement. Sounds
> > like something for a seawall.
>=20
> I guess you'se guys would have a hard time with what I reclaim/reuse... :=
)
>=20
> 100+ yr old 16-20 footers are far better material underneath the old=20
> paint and weather than anything cut now...of course, this is fascia=20
> material for the re-doing of the house not furniture, but still...when a=
=20
> 1x8 16-ft has nary a knot and 1/32" growth rings, it's pretty easy to=20
> run it thru the planer and skim of the top as opposed to purchasing=20
> "select" material at almost $50/piece and nothing over 14-ft available.
>=20
> :)
>=20
> I did use the old Model 13 Rockwell/Delta planer for the rough work=20
> rather than the PM 180 as it's quite a lot cheaper to replace the=20
> smaller than the larger if do get a chip...I got lucky though, gotten=20
> through almost all to be reused immediately and so far, haven't missed=20
> anything before going thru...
>=20

I really, really hope you haven't jinxed yourself. :-0

Good luck with the rest of the boards.

On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 1:30:23 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
> On 8/11/2019 10:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 9:47:48 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
> >> On 8/10/2019 10:06 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> On Saturday, August 10, 2019 at 8:44:01 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
> >>>> On 8/10/2019 6:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >>>>> On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:37:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> >>>>>>> On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> w=
rote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk =
wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk=
wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson=C2=A0 wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any g=
ood ideas for
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> replacement parts?
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 =
and I need a
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).=C2=A0 It is not=
supported by Sears
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> anymore.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> Google is your helper here:
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the=
belt driven
> >>>>>>>>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus yea=
rs. Never saw
> >>>>>>>>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I wi=
ll say that I have a 25 year
> >>>>>>>>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then =
again, I ripped out the right wing,
> >>>>>>>>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence,=
installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
> >>>>>>>>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left =
cast iron wing ...
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and =
Delta fence.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Blade varies based on usage.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Get A WWII already. ;~)
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I =
had one
> >>>>>>>> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest=
dado set.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #=
1
> >>>>>>> grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freu=
d set
> >>>>>>> for MDF, and such.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the=
flat
> >>>>>> grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> But instead of buying another ATB, I bought the #1 grind. Now I
> >>>>> sharpen the one that needs it.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one=
WWII
> >>>>>>>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out w=
hen one
> >>>>>>>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's =
well
> >>>>>>> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to rea=
lly
> >>>>>> sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. T=
he
> >>>>>> saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The Freud blade is really nice, too, and designed specifically for =
the
> >>>>> task.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsma=
n
> >>>>>>>> circular saw.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;=
-) I
> >>>>>>> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
> >>>>>> Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I don't think I want "anything that they find" in my basement. Sou=
nds
> >>>>> like something for a seawall.
> >>>>
> >>>> I guess you'se guys would have a hard time with what I reclaim/reuse=
... :)
> >>>>
> >>>> 100+ yr old 16-20 footers are far better material underneath the old
> >>>> paint and weather than anything cut now...of course, this is fascia
> >>>> material for the re-doing of the house not furniture, but still...wh=
en a
> >>>> 1x8 16-ft has nary a knot and 1/32" growth rings, it's pretty easy t=
o
> >>>> run it thru the planer and skim of the top as opposed to purchasing
> >>>> "select" material at almost $50/piece and nothing over 14-ft availab=
le.
> >>>>
> >>>> :)
> >>>>
> >>>> I did use the old Model 13 Rockwell/Delta planer for the rough work
> >>>> rather than the PM 180 as it's quite a lot cheaper to replace the
> >>>> smaller than the larger if do get a chip...I got lucky though, gotte=
n
> >>>> through almost all to be reused immediately and so far, haven't miss=
ed
> >>>> anything before going thru...
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> I really, really hope you haven't jinxed yourself. :-0
> >>
> >> Yes, that would be good... :)
> >>
> >>> Good luck with the rest of the boards.
> >>
> >> Indeed. I've got ~800 running feet of 3" bead board that was soffit
> >> that we replaced of which perhaps 2/3-rds is mostly reclaimable.
> >> Debated for long time about replacing or trying to redo in place and
> >> finally decided to put new material up as the time that would be
> >> required to strip and retouch joints in place just too much...plus, it=
's
> >> good to get the Dirty Thirties and Filthy Fifties accumulated dirt dow=
n
> >> as well...as much as 2-3" in places on top of soffit.
> >=20
> > Many years ago I helped demo a farmhouse kitchen. Late 1800's brick hou=
se,
> > where the "woodshed" was right off the kitchen and inside the brick
> > perimeter. The owner's were expanding the kitchen by incorporating the
> > woodshed into the space.
> >=20
> > When we pulled the old wainscoting off the walls we found that the stud=
bays
> > were almost half full with critter debris, droppings and the occasional
> > carcass. 3' - 4' up the wall, every bay. What a mess to clean up, since=
it
> > was all inside the house. Shovels, dust masks and lots of contractor ba=
gs.
> >=20
> > Best part of the weekend:
> >=20
> > The old fireplace was still in the wall between the kitchen and the woo=
dshed.
> > A few guys went up on the roof and into the attic and tore the chimney =
down
> > to the attic floor. Then they went into the woodshed and wrap chains ar=
ound
> > the fireplace supports, hooked them up to 2 tractors and pulled the bas=
e out,
> > dropping the rest of the chimney into the kitchen/woodshed. Lot's of no=
ise,
> > but when the dust cleared we see the sky 2 stories above the kitchen.
> >=20
> > My sons, 10 and 12 at the time, were there. Now in their 30's, it's som=
ething
> > they still talk about.
>=20
> Not found anything even approaching that...this is just good, clean=20
> topsoil blown in by the KS winds during the main dust bowl years of the=
=20
> 30's mostly altho there were some also some really bad days in the 50s=20
> drought years, too. With minor accumulations over the other 80-90 years=
=20
> as well, of course.
>=20
> Dad stripped all the exterior walls to insulate when did the major=20
> remodel in the late 70s/early 80s so they're still pretty good shape=20
> where have needed to get in.
>=20
> Discovered when we repaired the bad roofing job had done just before Dad=
=20
> passed and we came back (had put metal drip edge on wood-shingles with=20
> no overhang so it wicked back behind it and down the face of the fascia=
=20
> and into soffit) discovered he had not done anything at all in the=20
> attic...so we hauled out about 5" of dirt and insulated it then...all=20
> that had been there was that black-paper covered 1/2" rock wool...a=20
> little better than nothing, but not much.
>=20
> What was the access to the cavities in that house? Doesn't seem like=20
> should been that open w/ brick unless was balloon framing? Or had the=20
> brick wall been added later on and just covered up existing old open=20
> woodshed maybe?
>=20
> --

I don't know the history of the house. It was owned by a co-worker's
grandparents and I made a few trips out there to help tear down an old=20
out building that had become a danger, haul some wood from the "back forty"=
,=20
etc. There was usually a family gathering after the work was done, so
I knew most of my friend's family. When Grandma passed, his mom and dad=20
moved in and renovated the place as their retirement home. When extra hands
were needed, I lent them mine.

My guess is that the critters found their way into the woodshed, which was =
basically open to the outside even if it was walled in brick, then
eventually under and up into the house.

I recall that the floor of the woodshed was well below the floor of the=20
kitchen. You had to go up a few steps on the front and side of the house
to get in, but you walked right into the woodshed from the ground. That's
how the guys had access to the underside of the fireplace. I remember=20
looking down on them from the kitchen door as they pounded away at some=20
huge beams with sledgehammers.

This was at least 20 years ago, so I don't recall all of the details. I do
recall that the coal fire furnace still used a screw feeder. At least I thi=
nk
it still used it. I know for sure that it was still there because my buddy =
explained to me how it worked. I grew up in NYC, so all this farm stuff was=
=20
still pretty new, and therefore very interesting, to me. ;-)

On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:37:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>>>>> anymore.
>>>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>>>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>>>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>>>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>>>>
>>>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>>>>
>>>> Blade varies based on usage.
>>>
>>> Get A WWII already. ;~)
>>>
>>> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
>>> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.
>>
>> Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
>> grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud set
>> for MDF, and such.
>
>When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the flat
>grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.

But instead of buying another ATB, I bought the #1 grind. Now I
sharpen the one that needs it.
>
>
>>>
>>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
>>
>> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
>> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.
>
>I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
>sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
>saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.

The Freud blade is really nice, too, and designed specifically for the
task.
>>
>>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>>> circular saw.
>>
>> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
>> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
>>
>
>I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
>Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.

I don't think I want "anything that they find" in my basement. Sounds
like something for a seawall.

dpb <[email protected]> writes:
>On 8/11/2019 2:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 1:30:23 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:

>Dad, being the first of the children born on the farm (third overall)
>used to say he was "born in the coal room" because the house was as yet
>unfinished and they were living in the basement while remainder was
>being built at the time he was born. The room that was used ended up
>being the coal bin for a while after the house was done and the family
>moved upstairs...
>
>But the first main pipeline was laid across the pasture just to the SE
>of the house within 10-15 years and grandpa got a tap as part of the
>right of way deal and converted well before I was born probably another
>15-20 years anyways. Initially, all of those allowed cost-free gas for
>domestic use but that got broken by the successor company of the
>original almost 30 year ago now. Never could see how they could be
>allowed to do that, but the courts said it was legal through some
>loophole in how the contracts were written. I wasn't home at the time
>so don't know all the tricks they pulled nor how much was paid to whom.
>


My Uncle had a gravity "octopus" woodburner in the farmhouse basement until sometime in
the early 1980's when he switched to propane. Narrow little stairway down to
a cramped cellar several times a day to feed the beast.... Cutting cordwood all
summer on the hills (and some of that was before hydraulic splitters).

On Monday, August 12, 2019 at 1:45:08 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
> On 8/11/2019 2:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 1:30:23 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
> ...
>
> >> What was the access to the cavities in that house? Doesn't seem like
> >> should been that open w/ brick unless was balloon framing? Or had the
> >> brick wall been added later on and just covered up existing old open
> >> woodshed maybe?
> >>
> >> --
> >
> > I don't know the history of the house. It was owned by a co-worker's
> > grandparents and I made a few trips out there to help tear down an old
> > out building that had become a danger, haul some wood from the "back forty",
> > etc. There was usually a family gathering after the work was done, so
> > I knew most of my friend's family. When Grandma passed, his mom and dad
> > moved in and renovated the place as their retirement home. When extra hands
> > were needed, I lent them mine.
> >
> > My guess is that the critters found their way into the woodshed, which was basically open to the outside even if it was walled in brick, then
> > eventually under and up into the house.
> >
> > I recall that the floor of the woodshed was well below the floor of the
> > kitchen. You had to go up a few steps on the front and side of the house
> > to get in, but you walked right into the woodshed from the ground. That's
> > how the guys had access to the underside of the fireplace. I remember
> > looking down on them from the kitchen door as they pounded away at some
> > huge beams with sledgehammers.
>
> Makes sense and about what I had kinda' surmised must've been the case.
> Stuff like that not at all uncommon in those days...
>
> > This was at least 20 years ago, so I don't recall all of the details. I do
> > recall that the coal fire furnace still used a screw feeder. At least I think
> > it still used it. I know for sure that it was still there because my buddy explained to me how it worked. I grew up in NYC, so all this farm stuff was
> > still pretty new, and therefore very interesting, to me. ;-)
>
> I never saw the original steam boiler in this house before the
> conversion to NG so not sure how it was fed while still on coal.
>
> Dad, being the first of the children born on the farm (third overall)
> used to say he was "born in the coal room" because the house was as yet
> unfinished and they were living in the basement while remainder was
> being built at the time he was born. The room that was used ended up
> being the coal bin for a while after the house was done and the family
> moved upstairs...
>

I've got picture of Grandpa with his IH pick-up parked next to the foundation
of a house. Also in the picture is the top half of my mom (as a young girl)
emerging from the bulkhead doors.

Grandpa was a mason and building a house in his spare time. He had to sell the
old place to raise the money to buy supplies for the new house, so as soon
as the basement was done, they moved in. That house, and 2 more, were built
with used brick that they used to give away back then.

On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
> > replying to Rob Mills, Orson=C2=A0 wrote:
> > As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas fo=
r
> > replacement parts?
> > I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
> > replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).=C2=A0 It is not supported b=
y Sears
> > anymore.
> > Thank you, Orson
> >=20
>=20
>=20
> Google is your helper here:
>=20
> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207

Were these flex drive models any good?

My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
a flex drive before, not even on youtube.

On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
> replacement parts?
> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
> anymore.
> Thank you, Orson
>


Google is your helper here:

https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207

On 8/8/2019 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>> replacement parts?
>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>> anymore.
>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>
>>
>>
>> Google is your helper here:
>>
>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>
> Were these flex drive models any good?

I think the fact that you don't see anyone making them any more would
indicate NO. I could see them being a constant maintenance or
replacement problem, like the old speedo cables.


>
> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>

On 8/8/2019 8:54 PM, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>> replacement parts?
>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>> anymore.
>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>
>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>
>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>
>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>
>
>
> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>

LOL, that's the only way to make some Craftsman TS's worth using. I had
an 83 Craftsman 1 hp belt drive TS. I replaced the wings, stand, and fence.

On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

>On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>>> anymore.
>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>>
>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>>
>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>>
>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>>
>> Blade varies based on usage.
>
>Get A WWII already. ;~)
>
>I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
>of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.

Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud set
for MDF, and such.
>
>For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.

There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.

>If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>circular saw.

I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.

On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>>>> anymore.
>>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>>>
>>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>>>
>>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>>>
>>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>>>
>>> Blade varies based on usage.
>>
>> Get A WWII already. ;~)
>>
>> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
>> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.
>
> Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
> grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud set
> for MDF, and such.

When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the flat
grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.


>>
>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
>
> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.

I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.


>
>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>> circular saw.
>
> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
>

I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.

On 8/10/2019 6:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:37:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>>>>>> anymore.
>>>>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>>>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>>>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>>>>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>>>>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>>>>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>>>>>
>>>>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>>>>>
>>>>> Blade varies based on usage.
>>>>
>>>> Get A WWII already. ;~)
>>>>
>>>> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
>>>> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.
>>>
>>> Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
>>> grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud set
>>> for MDF, and such.
>>
>> When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the flat
>> grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.
>
> But instead of buying another ATB, I bought the #1 grind. Now I
> sharpen the one that needs it.
>>
>>
>>>>
>>>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>>>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>>>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
>>>
>>> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
>>> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.
>>
>> I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
>> sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
>> saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.
>
> The Freud blade is really nice, too, and designed specifically for the
> task.
>>>
>>>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>>>> circular saw.
>>>
>>> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
>>> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
>>>
>>
>> I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
>> Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.
>
> I don't think I want "anything that they find" in my basement. Sounds
> like something for a seawall.

I guess you'se guys would have a hard time with what I reclaim/reuse... :)

100+ yr old 16-20 footers are far better material underneath the old
paint and weather than anything cut now...of course, this is fascia
material for the re-doing of the house not furniture, but still...when a
1x8 16-ft has nary a knot and 1/32" growth rings, it's pretty easy to
run it thru the planer and skim of the top as opposed to purchasing
"select" material at almost $50/piece and nothing over 14-ft available.

:)

I did use the old Model 13 Rockwell/Delta planer for the rough work
rather than the PM 180 as it's quite a lot cheaper to replace the
smaller than the larger if do get a chip...I got lucky though, gotten
through almost all to be reused immediately and so far, haven't missed
anything before going thru...

--


--

On 8/10/2019 10:06 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, August 10, 2019 at 8:44:01 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
>> On 8/10/2019 6:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:37:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>>>>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>>>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>>>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>>>>>>>> anymore.
>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>>>>>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>>>>>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>>>>>>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>>>>>>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>>>>>>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Blade varies based on usage.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Get A WWII already. ;~)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
>>>>>> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.
>>>>>
>>>>> Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
>>>>> grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud set
>>>>> for MDF, and such.
>>>>
>>>> When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the flat
>>>> grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.
>>>
>>> But instead of buying another ATB, I bought the #1 grind. Now I
>>> sharpen the one that needs it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>>>>>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>>>>>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
>>>>>
>>>>> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
>>>>> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.
>>>>
>>>> I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
>>>> sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
>>>> saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.
>>>
>>> The Freud blade is really nice, too, and designed specifically for the
>>> task.
>>>>>
>>>>>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>>>>>> circular saw.
>>>>>
>>>>> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
>>>>> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
>>>> Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.
>>>
>>> I don't think I want "anything that they find" in my basement. Sounds
>>> like something for a seawall.
>>
>> I guess you'se guys would have a hard time with what I reclaim/reuse... :)
>>
>> 100+ yr old 16-20 footers are far better material underneath the old
>> paint and weather than anything cut now...of course, this is fascia
>> material for the re-doing of the house not furniture, but still...when a
>> 1x8 16-ft has nary a knot and 1/32" growth rings, it's pretty easy to
>> run it thru the planer and skim of the top as opposed to purchasing
>> "select" material at almost $50/piece and nothing over 14-ft available.
>>
>> :)
>>
>> I did use the old Model 13 Rockwell/Delta planer for the rough work
>> rather than the PM 180 as it's quite a lot cheaper to replace the
>> smaller than the larger if do get a chip...I got lucky though, gotten
>> through almost all to be reused immediately and so far, haven't missed
>> anything before going thru...
>>
>
> I really, really hope you haven't jinxed yourself. :-0

Yes, that would be good... :)

> Good luck with the rest of the boards.

Indeed. I've got ~800 running feet of 3" bead board that was soffit
that we replaced of which perhaps 2/3-rds is mostly reclaimable.
Debated for long time about replacing or trying to redo in place and
finally decided to put new material up as the time that would be
required to strip and retouch joints in place just too much...plus, it's
good to get the Dirty Thirties and Filthy Fifties accumulated dirt down
as well...as much as 2-3" in places on top of soffit.

Got drywall hung in new entry last week, flooring (1-1/4" strip oak to
match old house) after mud and tape and then can start the trim out.


--

On 8/11/2019 10:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 9:47:48 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
>> On 8/10/2019 10:06 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Saturday, August 10, 2019 at 8:44:01 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
>>>> On 8/10/2019 6:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:37:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>>> On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>>>>>>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>>>>>>>>>> anymore.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>>>>>>>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>>>>>>>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>>>>>>>>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>>>>>>>>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>>>>>>>>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Blade varies based on usage.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Get A WWII already. ;~)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
>>>>>>>> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
>>>>>>> grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud set
>>>>>>> for MDF, and such.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the flat
>>>>>> grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.
>>>>>
>>>>> But instead of buying another ATB, I bought the #1 grind. Now I
>>>>> sharpen the one that needs it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>>>>>>>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>>>>>>>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
>>>>>>> worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
>>>>>> sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
>>>>>> saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.
>>>>>
>>>>> The Freud blade is really nice, too, and designed specifically for the
>>>>> task.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>>>>>>>> circular saw.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
>>>>>>> do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
>>>>>> Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't think I want "anything that they find" in my basement. Sounds
>>>>> like something for a seawall.
>>>>
>>>> I guess you'se guys would have a hard time with what I reclaim/reuse... :)
>>>>
>>>> 100+ yr old 16-20 footers are far better material underneath the old
>>>> paint and weather than anything cut now...of course, this is fascia
>>>> material for the re-doing of the house not furniture, but still...when a
>>>> 1x8 16-ft has nary a knot and 1/32" growth rings, it's pretty easy to
>>>> run it thru the planer and skim of the top as opposed to purchasing
>>>> "select" material at almost $50/piece and nothing over 14-ft available.
>>>>
>>>> :)
>>>>
>>>> I did use the old Model 13 Rockwell/Delta planer for the rough work
>>>> rather than the PM 180 as it's quite a lot cheaper to replace the
>>>> smaller than the larger if do get a chip...I got lucky though, gotten
>>>> through almost all to be reused immediately and so far, haven't missed
>>>> anything before going thru...
>>>>
>>>
>>> I really, really hope you haven't jinxed yourself. :-0
>>
>> Yes, that would be good... :)
>>
>>> Good luck with the rest of the boards.
>>
>> Indeed. I've got ~800 running feet of 3" bead board that was soffit
>> that we replaced of which perhaps 2/3-rds is mostly reclaimable.
>> Debated for long time about replacing or trying to redo in place and
>> finally decided to put new material up as the time that would be
>> required to strip and retouch joints in place just too much...plus, it's
>> good to get the Dirty Thirties and Filthy Fifties accumulated dirt down
>> as well...as much as 2-3" in places on top of soffit.
>
> Many years ago I helped demo a farmhouse kitchen. Late 1800's brick house,
> where the "woodshed" was right off the kitchen and inside the brick
> perimeter. The owner's were expanding the kitchen by incorporating the
> woodshed into the space.
>
> When we pulled the old wainscoting off the walls we found that the stud bays
> were almost half full with critter debris, droppings and the occasional
> carcass. 3' - 4' up the wall, every bay. What a mess to clean up, since it
> was all inside the house. Shovels, dust masks and lots of contractor bags.
>
> Best part of the weekend:
>
> The old fireplace was still in the wall between the kitchen and the woodshed.
> A few guys went up on the roof and into the attic and tore the chimney down
> to the attic floor. Then they went into the woodshed and wrap chains around
> the fireplace supports, hooked them up to 2 tractors and pulled the base out,
> dropping the rest of the chimney into the kitchen/woodshed. Lot's of noise,
> but when the dust cleared we see the sky 2 stories above the kitchen.
>
> My sons, 10 and 12 at the time, were there. Now in their 30's, it's something
> they still talk about.

Not found anything even approaching that...this is just good, clean
topsoil blown in by the KS winds during the main dust bowl years of the
30's mostly altho there were some also some really bad days in the 50s
drought years, too. With minor accumulations over the other 80-90 years
as well, of course.

Dad stripped all the exterior walls to insulate when did the major
remodel in the late 70s/early 80s so they're still pretty good shape
where have needed to get in.

Discovered when we repaired the bad roofing job had done just before Dad
passed and we came back (had put metal drip edge on wood-shingles with
no overhang so it wicked back behind it and down the face of the fascia
and into soffit) discovered he had not done anything at all in the
attic...so we hauled out about 5" of dirt and insulated it then...all
that had been there was that black-paper covered 1/2" rock wool...a
little better than nothing, but not much.

What was the access to the cavities in that house? Doesn't seem like
should been that open w/ brick unless was balloon framing? Or had the
brick wall been added later on and just covered up existing old open
woodshed maybe?

--

On 8/11/2019 2:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 1:30:23 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
...

>> What was the access to the cavities in that house? Doesn't seem like
>> should been that open w/ brick unless was balloon framing? Or had the
>> brick wall been added later on and just covered up existing old open
>> woodshed maybe?
>>
>> --
>
> I don't know the history of the house. It was owned by a co-worker's
> grandparents and I made a few trips out there to help tear down an old
> out building that had become a danger, haul some wood from the "back forty",
> etc. There was usually a family gathering after the work was done, so
> I knew most of my friend's family. When Grandma passed, his mom and dad
> moved in and renovated the place as their retirement home. When extra hands
> were needed, I lent them mine.
>
> My guess is that the critters found their way into the woodshed, which was basically open to the outside even if it was walled in brick, then
> eventually under and up into the house.
>
> I recall that the floor of the woodshed was well below the floor of the
> kitchen. You had to go up a few steps on the front and side of the house
> to get in, but you walked right into the woodshed from the ground. That's
> how the guys had access to the underside of the fireplace. I remember
> looking down on them from the kitchen door as they pounded away at some
> huge beams with sledgehammers.

Makes sense and about what I had kinda' surmised must've been the case.
Stuff like that not at all uncommon in those days...

> This was at least 20 years ago, so I don't recall all of the details. I do
> recall that the coal fire furnace still used a screw feeder. At least I think
> it still used it. I know for sure that it was still there because my buddy explained to me how it worked. I grew up in NYC, so all this farm stuff was
> still pretty new, and therefore very interesting, to me. ;-)

I never saw the original steam boiler in this house before the
conversion to NG so not sure how it was fed while still on coal.

Dad, being the first of the children born on the farm (third overall)
used to say he was "born in the coal room" because the house was as yet
unfinished and they were living in the basement while remainder was
being built at the time he was born. The room that was used ended up
being the coal bin for a while after the house was done and the family
moved upstairs...

But the first main pipeline was laid across the pasture just to the SE
of the house within 10-15 years and grandpa got a tap as part of the
right of way deal and converted well before I was born probably another
15-20 years anyways. Initially, all of those allowed cost-free gas for
domestic use but that got broken by the successor company of the
original almost 30 year ago now. Never could see how they could be
allowed to do that, but the courts said it was legal through some
loophole in how the contracts were written. I wasn't home at the time
so don't know all the tricks they pulled nor how much was paid to whom.

At least so far, they haven't threatened to pull the connection itself.

--

On 8/9/2019 10:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, August 9, 2019 at 11:24:58 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 8/8/2019 8:54 PM, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>>> anymore.
>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>>
>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>>
>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>>>
>>
>> LOL, that's the only way to make some Craftsman TS's worth using. I had
>> an 83 Craftsman 1 hp belt drive TS. I replaced the wings, stand, and fence.
>
> Did anyone make a fence that was worse than the stock fence on that entire
> line of Craftsman contractor saws?

No manufacturer that I know of. I have seen a couple of home made ones
on YouTube that were probably worse.

>
> You'd have to try really hard...actually do it on purpose. ;-)
>

On 8/9/2019 10:43 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Friday, August 9, 2019 at 11:31:10 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
>> On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>> On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
>>>>>> On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
>>>>>>> replying to Rob Mills, Orson  wrote:
>>>>>>> As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
>>>>>>> replacement parts?
>>>>>>> I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
>>>>>>> replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).  It is not supported by Sears
>>>>>>> anymore.
>>>>>>> Thank you, Orson
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Google is your helper here:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
>>>>>
>>>>> Were these flex drive models any good?
>>>>>
>>>>> My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
>>>>> models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
>>>>> a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
>>>> old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
>>>> built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
>>>> the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
>>>
>>> That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
>>>
>>> Blade varies based on usage.
>>
>> Get A WWII already. ;~)
>>
>> I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
>> of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.
>>
>> For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
>> ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
>> gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
>>
>> If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
>> circular saw.
>>
>>
>
> I thought you used your green track saw for cutting everything. ;-)
>

No, mostly for cutting sheet goods to large sizes of smaller.