My neighbor (who makes cabinets as a hobby) made me a beautiful
oak-veneer radiator cabinet, complete with shelves on top. He
finishes most of his pieces with plain polyurethane. I want more of a
honey oak color. What's the best way to stain and finish a radiator
cabinet, taking into consideration the changes in temperature the wood
will be subjected to? (I like the idea of using water-based products,
if possible. For one thing, I've never done this before; also, I don't
like fumes.) Thanks so much!
Anne
That too
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Or a dye ixed in the finish.
>
> On Wed, 28 Apr 2004 13:08:22 -0400, "Mike G"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Water based poly is clear and imparts very little tint to the wood so if
you
> >want more color and use water based you will have to use a stain..
>
Right now, the wood is unfinished. (I'm not sure whether the neighbor
uses oil- or water-based polyurethane when he finishes his other
pieces.) If I use an oil-based stain, can I seal the wood with
water-based polyurethane? Do I have to use a wood conditioner?
Anne
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Buy a can of golden oak stain and apply as directed.
>
> You don't say whether the poly is water or oil based. Oil based will, by
> itself, impart an amber tone to the wood. Maybe not enough so you'll have to
> do a test on a hidden part or scrap. However oil based varnish does entail
> require some fumes.
>
> Water based poly is clear and imparts very little tint to the wood so if you
> want more color and use water based you will have to use a stain..
>
> A spar/marine varnish is the most flexible.
>
> "Anne" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My neighbor (who makes cabinets as a hobby) made me a beautiful
> > oak-veneer radiator cabinet, complete with shelves on top. He
> > finishes most of his pieces with plain polyurethane. I want more of a
> > honey oak color. What's the best way to stain and finish a radiator
> > cabinet, taking into consideration the changes in temperature the wood
> > will be subjected to? (I like the idea of using water-based products,
> > if possible. For one thing, I've never done this before; also, I don't
> > like fumes.)
Or a dye ixed in the finish.
On Wed, 28 Apr 2004 13:08:22 -0400, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Water based poly is clear and imparts very little tint to the wood so if you
>want more color and use water based you will have to use a stain..
Buy a can of golden oak stain and apply as directed.
You don't say whether the poly is water or oil based. Oil based will, by
itself, impart an amber tone to the wood. Maybe not enough so you'll have to
do a test on a hidden part or scrap. However oil based varnish does entail
require some fumes.
Water based poly is clear and imparts very little tint to the wood so if you
want more color and use water based you will have to use a stain..
A spar/marine varnish is the most flexible.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Anne" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My neighbor (who makes cabinets as a hobby) made me a beautiful
> oak-veneer radiator cabinet, complete with shelves on top. He
> finishes most of his pieces with plain polyurethane. I want more of a
> honey oak color. What's the best way to stain and finish a radiator
> cabinet, taking into consideration the changes in temperature the wood
> will be subjected to? (I like the idea of using water-based products,
> if possible. For one thing, I've never done this before; also, I don't
> like fumes.) Thanks so much!
>
> Anne
WB finishes can be used over oil based products as long as the oil
based stuff is fully cured. WB polyurethane doesn't have the odor oil
based does and dries much quicker. Also doesn'y have the ambering
effect oil does. Seems better suited for interior use. Maybe Mike
can comment on the conditioner.
On 28 Apr 2004 14:37:49 -0700, [email protected] (Anne) wrote:
>Right now, the wood is unfinished. (I'm not sure whether the neighbor
>uses oil- or water-based polyurethane when he finishes his other
>pieces.) If I use an oil-based stain, can I seal the wood with
>water-based polyurethane? Do I have to use a wood conditioner?
>
>Anne
>
>"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> Buy a can of golden oak stain and apply as directed.
>>
>> You don't say whether the poly is water or oil based. Oil based will, by
>> itself, impart an amber tone to the wood. Maybe not enough so you'll have to
>> do a test on a hidden part or scrap. However oil based varnish does entail
>> require some fumes.
>>
>> Water based poly is clear and imparts very little tint to the wood so if you
>> want more color and use water based you will have to use a stain..
>>
>> A spar/marine varnish is the most flexible.
>>
>> "Anne" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > My neighbor (who makes cabinets as a hobby) made me a beautiful
>> > oak-veneer radiator cabinet, complete with shelves on top. He
>> > finishes most of his pieces with plain polyurethane. I want more of a
>> > honey oak color. What's the best way to stain and finish a radiator
>> > cabinet, taking into consideration the changes in temperature the wood
>> > will be subjected to? (I like the idea of using water-based products,
>> > if possible. For one thing, I've never done this before; also, I don't
>> > like fumes.)
Yes you can once the stain has dried. As a matter of fact you may be better
off since, when using liked based stain and finish, the finish has a
tendency to lift the stain if you aren't real careful.
On oak you can probably get away without a conditioner/sealer anywhere but
on the end grain. Being far more porous then the rest of the wood it'd suck
stain up and get quite dark.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Anne" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Right now, the wood is unfinished. (I'm not sure whether the neighbor
> uses oil- or water-based polyurethane when he finishes his other
> pieces.) If I use an oil-based stain, can I seal the wood with
> water-based polyurethane? Do I have to use a wood conditioner?
>
> Anne
>
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Buy a can of golden oak stain and apply as directed.
> >
> > You don't say whether the poly is water or oil based. Oil based will, by
> > itself, impart an amber tone to the wood. Maybe not enough so you'll
have to
> > do a test on a hidden part or scrap. However oil based varnish does
entail
> > require some fumes.
> >
> > Water based poly is clear and imparts very little tint to the wood so if
you
> > want more color and use water based you will have to use a stain..
> >
> > A spar/marine varnish is the most flexible.
> >
> > "Anne" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > My neighbor (who makes cabinets as a hobby) made me a beautiful
> > > oak-veneer radiator cabinet, complete with shelves on top. He
> > > finishes most of his pieces with plain polyurethane. I want more of a
> > > honey oak color. What's the best way to stain and finish a radiator
> > > cabinet, taking into consideration the changes in temperature the wood
> > > will be subjected to? (I like the idea of using water-based products,
> > > if possible. For one thing, I've never done this before; also, I don't
> > > like fumes.)