Dining room table -

Tale a look at www.tablelegs.com , Matthew Burak shows at least two round
tables.

"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6f30ad79-1393-44aa-a3a9-90e0a83ef360@d21g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> Maybe this book? http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/item/070609.html
> I haven't read it but looks like it is on the subject.
>
> When I think of the design challenge you propose the following comes
> to mind.
>
> 1. Build an expandable table that has a rectangular leaf that can be
> inserted to make your round table into a longer table with rounded
> ends when you need it.
>
> 2. Now you have a classic and well thought out design concept that
> provides for 2 semi circle halves and a standard atachment that takes
> care of all the wood expansion problems. Books like the one mentioned
> can provide the details.
>
> 3. If you use classic techniques you will have a bent apron, slats
> under the table top that are part of the leaf\expansion system that
> also manage the attachment to the pedestal and the table top.
>
> 4. You can buy leaf extension hardware from several locations and it
> will come with instructions about attachment to the pedestal, top,
> etc.
>
> 5. Even if you don't need it now, build the leaf so you can match the
> finish and material exactly now, rather than later.
>
> Here are some suggestions for the round top (which will be split to
> make the two halves.)
>
> 1. Make sure the glue-up has one wide board centered near the center,
> so when you split the table you aren't cutting near or down a glue
> line and you'll have a nice mathing effect when the table is in the
> round configuration.
>
> 2. Cut a piece of MDF to the exact round sive using a router trammel
> or other precise method. Then trace that round on the solid wood glue-
> up, cut close to the line with a band or jig saw. Then use a pattern
> \trim bit on a routerand the MDF template to finish cutting the solid
> wood round.
>
> 3. For a more petite (thin) look for the table top, chamfer the
> underside of the table top edge. If you make the edge maybe 3/8" thick
> and an un-equal chamfer back at least an inch or so the top will look
> really thin. I have also used panel raising bits and put a nice smooth
> curved cut-away on the underside. Faking a thin edge by undercutting
> it like is super effective and really lightens the look of pieces. I
> use it on shelf edges and tops all the time.
>
> Fine Wood Working mag had a pedestal table with a 3 foot base maybe a
> year ago detailed all the attachment techniques. It didn't have an
> expanding table top (I fdon't think) here are the plans.
> http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/item/011053.html
>
>
> BW
>
> On Dec 3, 11:21 am, jbd in Denver <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> I've just ordered some 6/4 walnut from Steve Wall in the hopes of
>> embarking
>> on my most challenging project to date. Then again - the challenge may be
>> one more of understanding than anything. My father's VN shadowbox is
>> done,
>> and my wife keeps asking about her dining room table...
>>
>> The "design requirements" are these:
>> - Family of four
>> - Pretty small dining area w/ attached kitchen.
>> - Round table w/ pedestal - the more "petite" (read "thin"), the better.
>> - Walnut
>>
>> Easy yea?
>> - Buy a walnut pedestal (only vendor I could find was Adams).
>> - Build a walnut blank, cut a circle and attach.
>>
>> Here's where I get scared...
>> Having a 44" table top w/ no expansion (narrow pedestal) worries me a
>> bit.
>> Was thinking of splitting the table, w/ a narrow pedestal on each side
>> (Adams small traditional pedestal in walnut w/ 3 legs) butted (or nearly)
>> together (with a leg out where they meet) - and a 18" or so leaf.
>>
>> Expansion table idea scares me - but plenty of articles are available.
>> Asthetics of thin pedestals with the table "closed" scares me.
>> Leaf on a round table scares me.
>>
>> Book recommendations, tips, advice, pictures of such tables, criticism,
>> etc
>> - is all welcome...
>>
>> Thanks -
>>
>> jbd
>>
>> --
>> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>

I would do a poplar version no matter the design
before I committed that much walnut.

I would also look into "several" designs before I
committed to a pedestal base.

"Petite" and pedestal base don't seem to go together.

http://www.tablelegs.com/BaseKits/DiningTableBaseKits/RoundHepplewhiteDiningTableBaseKits.aspx


jbd in Denver wrote:
> I've just ordered some 6/4 walnut from Steve Wall in the hopes of embarking
> on my most challenging project to date. Then again - the challenge may be
> one more of understanding than anything. My father's VN shadowbox is done,
> and my wife keeps asking about her dining room table...
>
> The "design requirements" are these:
> - Family of four
> - Pretty small dining area w/ attached kitchen.
> - Round table w/ pedestal - the more "petite" (read "thin"), the better.
> - Walnut
>
> Easy yea?
> - Buy a walnut pedestal (only vendor I could find was Adams).
> - Build a walnut blank, cut a circle and attach.
>
> Here's where I get scared...
> Having a 44" table top w/ no expansion (narrow pedestal) worries me a bit.
> Was thinking of splitting the table, w/ a narrow pedestal on each side
> (Adams small traditional pedestal in walnut w/ 3 legs) butted (or nearly)
> together (with a leg out where they meet) - and a 18" or so leaf.
>
> Expansion table idea scares me - but plenty of articles are available.
> Asthetics of thin pedestals with the table "closed" scares me.
> Leaf on a round table scares me.
>
> Book recommendations, tips, advice, pictures of such tables, criticism, etc
> - is all welcome...
>
> Thanks -
>
> jbd
>
>
>
>

Maybe this book? http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/item/070609.html
I haven't read it but looks like it is on the subject.

When I think of the design challenge you propose the following comes
to mind.

1. Build an expandable table that has a rectangular leaf that can be
inserted to make your round table into a longer table with rounded
ends when you need it.

2. Now you have a classic and well thought out design concept that
provides for 2 semi circle halves and a standard atachment that takes
care of all the wood expansion problems. Books like the one mentioned
can provide the details.

3. If you use classic techniques you will have a bent apron, slats
under the table top that are part of the leaf\expansion system that
also manage the attachment to the pedestal and the table top.

4. You can buy leaf extension hardware from several locations and it
will come with instructions about attachment to the pedestal, top,
etc.

5. Even if you don't need it now, build the leaf so you can match the
finish and material exactly now, rather than later.

Here are some suggestions for the round top (which will be split to
make the two halves.)

1. Make sure the glue-up has one wide board centered near the center,
so when you split the table you aren't cutting near or down a glue
line and you'll have a nice mathing effect when the table is in the
round configuration.

2. Cut a piece of MDF to the exact round sive using a router trammel
or other precise method. Then trace that round on the solid wood glue-
up, cut close to the line with a band or jig saw. Then use a pattern
\trim bit on a routerand the MDF template to finish cutting the solid
wood round.

3. For a more petite (thin) look for the table top, chamfer the
underside of the table top edge. If you make the edge maybe 3/8" thick
and an un-equal chamfer back at least an inch or so the top will look
really thin. I have also used panel raising bits and put a nice smooth
curved cut-away on the underside. Faking a thin edge by undercutting
it like is super effective and really lightens the look of pieces. I
use it on shelf edges and tops all the time.

Fine Wood Working mag had a pedestal table with a 3 foot base maybe a
year ago detailed all the attachment techniques. It didn't have an
expanding table top (I fdon't think) here are the plans.
http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/item/011053.html


BW

On Dec 3, 11:21 am, jbd in Denver <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I've just ordered some 6/4 walnut from Steve Wall in the hopes of embarking
> on my most challenging project to date. Then again - the challenge may be
> one more of understanding than anything. My father's VN shadowbox is done,
> and my wife keeps asking about her dining room table...
>
> The "design requirements" are these:
> - Family of four
> - Pretty small dining area w/ attached kitchen.
> - Round table w/ pedestal - the more "petite" (read "thin"), the better.
> - Walnut
>
> Easy yea?
> - Buy a walnut pedestal (only vendor I could find was Adams).
> - Build a walnut blank, cut a circle and attach.
>
> Here's where I get scared...
> Having a 44" table top w/ no expansion (narrow pedestal) worries me a bit.
> Was thinking of splitting the table, w/ a narrow pedestal on each side
> (Adams small traditional pedestal in walnut w/ 3 legs) butted (or nearly)
> together (with a leg out where they meet) - and a 18" or so leaf.
>
> Expansion table idea scares me - but plenty of articles are available.
> Asthetics of thin pedestals with the table "closed" scares me.
> Leaf on a round table scares me.
>
> Book recommendations, tips, advice, pictures of such tables, criticism, etc
> - is all welcome...
>
> Thanks -
>
> jbd
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

After serious thinking jbd in Denver wrote :

( snip)

>
> Book recommendations, tips, advice, pictures of such tables, criticism, etc
> - is all welcome...
>
> Thanks -
>
> jbd


I'd ask over in the rec, you might get more replies as some of them
can't get binary groups like this.

Mekon