I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 14:51:57 GMT, "tcg" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>| Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
>Of
>| course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
>more
>| difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
>one
>| point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
>| switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
>| burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
>of
>| cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
>your
>| point on carbide?
>| GerryG
>|
>| On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" <[email protected]> wrote:
>|
>| >
>| >"ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>| >news:[email protected]...
>| >| I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
>| >| router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
>| >| tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
>| >| People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
>| >| there a trick to rounding without burning?
>| >
>| >Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.
>
>As you said "although it (carbide) will hold an edge longer". Experience has
>shown me that HSS may be as sharp as carbide, but one doesn't rout hardwood
>long before the bit is dull and you're burning your stock. To me, with all
>other things be equal, the longevity of a carbide edge makes it my choice
>for router bits. Carbide tipped saw blades have almost completely replaced
>un-tipped saw blades as the blades of choice in almost all saws today for
>the same reason.
>
Firstly, I suggest that there are no rules that always apply. One obvious
variable is the amount of routing you intend to do. In general, I've heard it
said that carbide lasts about 5x HSS. On the other hand, I can route hardwood
for several projects with HSS before it begins to get dull, which is a bit
different than what you've seen. I've got a few HSS bits that I use to hog out
MDF and particleboard, which also more quickly dulls carbide, but these same
bits have been used for maybe twenty years now. There are also cheaper carbide
bits that will tend to chip out much sooner, and they also have a place for
some projects where they're maybe 1/4 the cost but get the job done. For saw
blades, if you mean circular saws, I won't argue that one since sharpening a
HSS saw blade takes quite awhile. Overall, most of my router bits are of a
quality carbide, but the others have a use as well.
GerryG
I was making some dog dish stands with oak tops. I had no problems. Use standard
practices and keep the router moving
Frank
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
> > router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
> > tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
> > People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
> > there a trick to rounding without burning?
>
> I have an oak desk and the router sits on top of it. So far, it has not
> burned it at all. Where the router connects to the computer there is plenty
> of space for ventilation. If you mount the router on the stairs, be sure
> the is out of the way so no one trips on it.
Of course, there are some who clean the carbide and touch up the faces with
600 diamond file prior to routing, and sometimes during long runs. Process
is exactly the same as your HSS.
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
> course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
> difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
> point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
> switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
> burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
> cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
> point on carbide?
But, of course, I was. Which Is why I said it. It works, which is why I do
it.
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Exactly the same? I'm not talking about a 600 grit touch up here. You may
also
> get chip-outs in carbide, which can't be fixed. I've taken old and badly
> burned HSS bit and fixed them good as new. And yes, I have touched up
carbide,
> and most of my bits are carbide. I've even ground specific profiles on
HSS.
> GerryG
GerryG wrote:
> On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 14:51:57 GMT, "tcg" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >| Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
> >Of
> >| course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
> >more
> >| difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
> >one
> >| point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
> >| switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
> >| burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
> >of
> >| cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
> >your
> >| point on carbide?
> >| GerryG
> >|
> >| On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >|
> >| >
> >| >"ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >| >news:[email protected]...
> >| >| I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
> >| >| router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
> >| >| tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
> >| >| People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
> >| >| there a trick to rounding without burning?
> >| >
> >| >Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.
> >
> >As you said "although it (carbide) will hold an edge longer". Experience has
> >shown me that HSS may be as sharp as carbide, but one doesn't rout hardwood
> >long before the bit is dull and you're burning your stock. To me, with all
> >other things be equal, the longevity of a carbide edge makes it my choice
> >for router bits. Carbide tipped saw blades have almost completely replaced
> >un-tipped saw blades as the blades of choice in almost all saws today for
> >the same reason.
> >
> Firstly, I suggest that there are no rules that always apply. One obvious
> variable is the amount of routing you intend to do. In general, I've heard it
> said that carbide lasts about 5x HSS. On the other hand, I can route hardwood
> for several projects with HSS before it begins to get dull, which is a bit
> different than what you've seen. I've got a few HSS bits that I use to hog out
> MDF and particleboard, which also more quickly dulls carbide, but these same
> bits have been used for maybe twenty years now. There are also cheaper carbide
> bits that will tend to chip out much sooner, and they also have a place for
> some projects where they're maybe 1/4 the cost but get the job done. For saw
> blades, if you mean circular saws, I won't argue that one since sharpening a
> HSS saw blade takes quite awhile. Overall, most of my router bits are of a
> quality carbide, but the others have a use as well.
> GerryG
I suggest that the original poster subscribe to the rec.woodworking newsgroup and
post the question there. Those guys have oodles of experience with routers on almost
any type of wood. For a newbie, they will try to help out.
In addition, I would try chamfering the edges on the ts prior to running the
router.
"Bulletsnbrains" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My .02 cents worth...
>
> Use a good and sharp bit with a bearing roller to reduce drag. Keep the
> router moving. Also take small bites and make a few passes over the edge
> to achieve the final radius.
>
> Luck,
> Brian
>
> "ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
>> router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
>> tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
>> People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
>> there a trick to rounding without burning?
>>
>
>
On 23 Sep 2004 00:45:49 -0700, [email protected] (ississauga)
wrote:
>I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
>router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
>tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
>People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
>there a trick to rounding without burning?
The proper speed and feed rate will minimize burning to oak. Having a
sharp bit with a good DC suction to remove the chips helps. Take
1/16" on the final pass and avoid holding the router still while
against the wood. Cherry is much more sensitive to burning than any
kind of oak.
Take note of who ever told you that and don't listen to them. In fact I just
finished making a new tread for my MIL's front door. I used a piece of oak
stair tread, ripped it down, glued it up and then routed all the edges.
Like any wood, use a sharp bit, and take small passes.
Bernie
> "ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
>> router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
>> tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
>> People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
>> there a trick to rounding without burning?
>>
>
>
"ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| there a trick to rounding without burning?
Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.
"ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
> router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
> tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
> People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
> there a trick to rounding without burning?
I have an oak desk and the router sits on top of it. So far, it has not
burned it at all. Where the router connects to the computer there is plenty
of space for ventilation. If you mount the router on the stairs, be sure
the is out of the way so no one trips on it.
Where abouts Bob? I grew up in Montgomery county, but now live in Harpers
Ferry.
Steve P.
"Bob G." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:36:45 GMT, "Red Neckerson"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Check your local laws and see what they say. I know here in West Virginny
> >it's against the law!
> >
> >They have some DUMB laws, though. I can't even use a router on my sister
> >legally.....
> >
> ====================
> Lol.... I though all houses in the Mountain Moma State were old cars..
> or trucks.,.. and I never saw one that needed steps INSIDE... lol
>
> BUT if your sister is also your wife...(we are talking about West
> Virginia ) is using a router on her still illegal... ???
>
> Being Serious ... West Virginia is a very pretty State,..
>
> Bob Griffiths
> Maryland Boy ...but only 12 miles from the State lines of both
> Virginia and West Virginia...
>
> .
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:36:45 GMT, "Red Neckerson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Check your local laws and see what they say. I know here in West Virginny
>it's against the law!
>
>They have some DUMB laws, though. I can't even use a router on my sister
>legally.....
>
====================
Lol.... I though all houses in the Mountain Moma State were old cars..
or trucks.,.. and I never saw one that needed steps INSIDE... lol
BUT if your sister is also your wife...(we are talking about West
Virginia ) is using a router on her still illegal... ???
Being Serious ... West Virginia is a very pretty State,..
Bob Griffiths
Maryland Boy ...but only 12 miles from the State lines of both
Virginia and West Virginia...
.
I used a router on an oak once - I wasn't able to cut it down at all, one
heck of a big oak. I coverid it in gasoline just to soften the wood up and
then started the router back up and damn if it didn't burn it. I stay away
from oaks with my router now. I only use it on small poplars and an
occasional sycamore.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was making some dog dish stands with oak tops. I had no problems. Use
standard
> practices and keep the router moving
>
> Frank
>
> Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>
> > "ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
> > > router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
> > > tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
> > > People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
> > > there a trick to rounding without burning?
> >
> > I have an oak desk and the router sits on top of it. So far, it has not
> > burned it at all. Where the router connects to the computer there is
plenty
> > of space for ventilation. If you mount the router on the stairs, be
sure
> > the is out of the way so no one trips on it.
>
Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that? Of
course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is more
difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at one
point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth of
cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's your
point on carbide?
GerryG
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>| I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
>| router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
>| tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
>| People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
>| there a trick to rounding without burning?
>
>Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.
>
good point.
"Lewis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
> You didn't ask, but rounding over the end grain on the sides of stair
> treads is not the "normal" way to get bullnose sides. At least around
> here, a side trim piece is added, mitered at the front. That way you
> don't have any end grain showing.
> Lewis
On 23 Sep 2004 00:45:49 -0700, [email protected] (ississauga)
wrote:
>I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
>router to smooth the edges, will this work?
Should do.
Oak routs fine. Some is a bit hard and splintery, so watch out for
splitting on end grain and use a spelch plate (bit of scrap clamped to
the end of the cut).
If it's burning, turn the speed down and the feed rate up.
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
| course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
| difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
| point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
| switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
| burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
| cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
| point on carbide?
| GerryG
|
| On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" <[email protected]> wrote:
|
| >
| >"ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
| >news:[email protected]...
| >| I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| >| router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| >| tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| >| People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| >| there a trick to rounding without burning?
| >
| >Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.
As you said "although it (carbide) will hold an edge longer". Experience has
shown me that HSS may be as sharp as carbide, but one doesn't rout hardwood
long before the bit is dull and you're burning your stock. To me, with all
other things be equal, the longevity of a carbide edge makes it my choice
for router bits. Carbide tipped saw blades have almost completely replaced
un-tipped saw blades as the blades of choice in almost all saws today for
the same reason.
My .02 cents worth...
Use a good and sharp bit with a bearing roller to reduce drag. Keep the
router moving. Also take small bites and make a few passes over the edge to
achieve the final radius.
Luck,
Brian
"ississauga" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
> router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
> tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
> People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
> there a trick to rounding without burning?
>
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 13:18:17 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (ississauga) wrote:
>>I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
>>router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
>>tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
>>People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
>>there a trick to rounding without burning?
>
>No "trick" really, just good routing practices:
>1) Keep your cut depth shallow. Don't try to take off too much wood in one
>pass. Remember that, with a roundover bit like you'll be using, as you lower
>the bit, each pass takes off a lot more wood than the previous pass. So for
>your first pass, you might be able to lower the bit as much as 1/8" -- but for
>the second and third passes, no more than 1/16", and for subsequent passes,
>you should probably limit it to 1/32".
>2) Keep the router moving fairly quickly. If you move it too slowly, the wood
>will burn.
look here:
http://www.patwarner.com/
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (ississauga) wrote:
>I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
>router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
>tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
>People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
>there a trick to rounding without burning?
No "trick" really, just good routing practices:
1) Keep your cut depth shallow. Don't try to take off too much wood in one
pass. Remember that, with a roundover bit like you'll be using, as you lower
the bit, each pass takes off a lot more wood than the previous pass. So for
your first pass, you might be able to lower the bit as much as 1/8" -- but for
the second and third passes, no more than 1/16", and for subsequent passes,
you should probably limit it to 1/32".
2) Keep the router moving fairly quickly. If you move it too slowly, the wood
will burn.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
Exactly the same? I'm not talking about a 600 grit touch up here. You may also
get chip-outs in carbide, which can't be fixed. I've taken old and badly
burned HSS bit and fixed them good as new. And yes, I have touched up carbide,
and most of my bits are carbide. I've even ground specific profiles on HSS.
GerryG
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:13:53 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>Of course, there are some who clean the carbide and touch up the faces with
>600 diamond file prior to routing, and sometimes during long runs. Process
>is exactly the same as your HSS.
>
>
>"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
>Of
>> course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
>more
>> difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
>one
>> point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
>> switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
>> burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
>of
>> cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
>your
>> point on carbide?
>