A. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly
painted part you were drying.
B. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere
under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls
and
hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to
say,"Ouch.."
C. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age
D. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
E. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion,and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal
your future becomes.
F. VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is
available,they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the
palm
of your hand.
G. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
a
brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
H. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2
socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
I. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after
you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack
handle
firmly under the front fender.
J. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a motorcycle upward
off a hydraulic jack.
K. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
L. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
floor jack.
M. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-do off your boot.
N. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and
is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
O. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
P. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to
disconnect.
Q. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
without
the handle.
R. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid
from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that
your
battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
S. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
T. TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called drop
light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is
not otherwise found under motorcycles at night. Health benefits aside,
it's
main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate
that
105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of
the
Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
misleading.
U. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as
the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
V. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
bolts
last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Sindelfingen, and rounds them
off.
W. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
X. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
Y. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the
object we are trying to hit.
Z. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well
on
boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
--
Paul O.
[email protected]
On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 13:42:48 GMT, "Paul O." <[email protected]>
stole:
>A. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
> metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
> flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly
> painted part you were drying.
<snip>
Here's the wooddorking version (courtesy J.F. Milliken) originally
posted on 22/4/1998:
<http://groups.google.ca/group/rec.woodworking/msg/76ce8518e32c77ae?dmode=source&hl=en>
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Woodworking
Thanks... I needed that!
Frank
Paul O. wrote:
>A. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
> metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
> flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly
> painted part you were drying.
>B. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere
>under
> the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls
>and
> hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to
>say,"Ouch.."
>C. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel pop rivets in their
> holes until you die of old age
>D. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
>E. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
> principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
> motion,and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal
> your future becomes.
>F. VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is
> available,they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the
>palm
> of your hand.
>G. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
> objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
>a
> brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
>H. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
> motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2
> socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
>I. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after
> you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack
>handle
> firmly under the front fender.
>J. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a motorcycle upward
> off a hydraulic jack.
>K. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
>L. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
> floor jack.
>M. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
> spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-do off your boot.
>N. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and
> is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
>O. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
>P. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
> strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to
> disconnect.
>Q. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that
> inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
>without
> the handle.
>R. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid
> from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that
>your
> battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
>S. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
>T. TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called drop
> light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is
> not otherwise found under motorcycles at night. Health benefits aside,
>it's
> main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate
>that
> 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of
>the
> Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
> misleading.
>U. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
> paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as
> the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
>V. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
> power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
> travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
>bolts
> last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Sindelfingen, and rounds them
>off.
>W. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
> bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
>X. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
>Y. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
> used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the
> object we are trying to hit.
>Z. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
> cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well
>on
> boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
>
>
>
>
On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 13:42:48 GMT, "Paul O." <[email protected]>
wrote:
[top posted for your convenience]
*****************************************
Original written by Peter Egan and published in Road & Track, April,
1996.
>A. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
> metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
> flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly
> painted part you were drying.
>B. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere
>under
> the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls
>and
> hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to
>say,"Ouch.."
>C. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel pop rivets in their
> holes until you die of old age
>D. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
>E. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
> principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
> motion,and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal
> your future becomes.
>F. VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is
> available,they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the
>palm
> of your hand.
>G. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
> objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
>a
> brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
>H. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
> motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2
> socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
>I. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after
> you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack
>handle
> firmly under the front fender.
>J. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a motorcycle upward
> off a hydraulic jack.
>K. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
>L. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
> floor jack.
>M. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
> spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-do off your boot.
>N. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and
> is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
>O. TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
>P. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
> strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to
> disconnect.
>Q. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that
> inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
>without
> the handle.
>R. BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid
> from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that
>your
> battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
>S. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
>T. TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called drop
> light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is
> not otherwise found under motorcycles at night. Health benefits aside,
>it's
> main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate
>that
> 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of
>the
> Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
> misleading.
>U. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
> paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as
> the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
>V. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
> power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
> travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
>bolts
> last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Sindelfingen, and rounds them
>off.
>W. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
> bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
>X. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
>Y. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
> used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the
> object we are trying to hit.
>Z. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
> cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well
>on
> boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
Paul O. wrote:
[snippers]
> the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
> V. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
> power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
> travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
> bolts
> last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Sindelfingen, and rounds them
> off.
Can also drive a cold chisel to remove the aforementioned nuts. When
the nut comes off, you assess the damage to the bolt and chisel or
hacksaw the bolt off, drill and tap a new hole and put in a new stud...
Jeez, this is no fun at all.
grumble,
jo4hn