On 5/9/2015 10:58 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Fri, 08 May 2015 22:38:14 -0500
> Martin Eastburn <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Look for a screw of some sort in the throat of the chuck.
>> Might be there and if there - take it out and then you can
>> extract the chuck off the arbor.
>
> i fear it will be rusted tight but maybe i will get lucky
> i fear it will be a philips head
>
> will found out today
Be mindful of the direction to turn the retainer screw or bolt,
especially of it is a Philips head screw.
Most likely in the normal direction but for future reference,
Just remember that the screw tightens in the opposite direction that the
drill spins to drill a hole. To loosen turn in the direction that the
drill normally spins. Just like most anything that retains a spinning
object.
John Doe <[email protected]> wrote:
> Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?
>
> So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on in
> place of the chuck.
>
> I just need a keyword to search for. Assuming it exists. Of course it
> would be drill chuck thread specific.
>
> Thanks.
http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tools/cordless-drills/t15-lithium-ion-cordless-drill-564521
On Saturday, May 2, 2015 at 2:36:47 AM UTC-5, John Doe wrote:
> Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?=20
>=20
> So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on in
> place of the chuck.=20
>=20
> I just need a keyword to search for. Assuming it exists. Of course it
> would be drill chuck thread specific.=20
>=20
> Thanks.
And, continuing what Lloyd said, when the taper mounted drill is mounted it=
s much steadier and stronger. It could also be cheaper, depending on how m=
any different size drill bits you are going to use. But you need to go loo=
king on the metal working side of the house. =20
One last thing, assuming your drill press does have a #2 Morse Taper, chang=
ing the bits will only require a slight tap with the a drift designed for y=
our drill press, which is a wedged shaped of steel that slides in the slot =
on the quill and presses down on the end of the bit/taper.
Leon <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tools/cordless-drills/t15-lithium-ion-c
> ordless-drill-564521
Did you have to search, or were you waiting for an opportunity to mention
it? :-)
FWIW, Black & Decker has a similar unit in stores. I was totally
unimpressed with the one I got, the connection method looked reliable but
the motor and gear unit sounded terrible.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Electric Comet <[email protected]> writes:
>On Sun, 3 May 2015 13:38:07 +0000 (UTC)
>John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> That was kind of my point - if you're just going up & down,
>> you're fine; that's what the drill press is designed to do.
>> If you want to use it like a mill, that's not such a good idea.
>
>obviously
>
>has anyone called you Major Obvious
>or maybe General or Captain
>
Most people think name calling is for grade schoolers.
On 5/7/2015 4:38 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 7 May 2015 19:49:17 +0000 (UTC)
> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I beleive chucks come one of two ways - either all one piece
>> ("integral arbor") or with a Jacobs taper.
>
> this looks like it's two pieces
>
> if it is two is it possible to separate them
>
>
>
So there is the mt taper for going into the spindle,
and then they is usually but not always a J taper or sometimes other
tape for the MT arbor to the chuck.
There are wedges used to pop them apart. You can buy the reasonably.
They are meant to remove the part w/o destroying the chuck. The
pressure is put on the landing around the abor, not on the moveable ring
that tightens the chuck.
I think they can be had for around $16 ..
--
Jeff
On 5/2/2015 3:35 AM, John Doe wrote:
> Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?
>
> So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on in
> place of the chuck.
>
> I just need a keyword to search for. Assuming it exists. Of course it
> would be drill chuck thread specific.
>
> Thanks.
>
It might help if we knew just what machine the chuck is being removed
from...
John Doe <[email protected]> fired this volley in news:mi1uoe
[email protected]:
> I just need a keyword to search for. Assuming it exists. Of course it
> would be drill chuck thread specific.
>
Mostly, it's consumer tool chucks that are threaded onto the spindle
nose.
Commercial metalworking tools usually use taper-mounted chucks. Common
among the tapers used is the Morse #2 taper.
If your chuck is taper-mounted in the spindle (not 'on' the spindle),
then _any_ tool having the same taper could be used in your spindle.
Lloyd
John Doe <[email protected]> wrote in news:mi1uoe$iu4$1@dont-
email.me:
> Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?
>
> So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on in
> place of the chuck.
That's a good question. I can't think of anything that would
be screwed onto a drill in place of the chuck, other than
another chuck.
Bigger drills use a morse taper rather than a screw on chuck.
There are thousands of things that have a morse taper, but
most of those are intended for lathes, milling machines, etc.
Larger sizes of drill bits can be had with morse taper shanks
for directly installing in drill press (quicker to change bits
that way, as compared to using a chuck).
John
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:mi3dbc$tto$1
@dont-email.me:
> On Sat, 2 May 2015 12:20:36 -0700
> "Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have two drill presses in my shop that have never had a drill chuck
>> on them. They came out of the box and I installed tapping heads in
>> them instead. I have a third machine (a mill drill) that came to my
>> shop used with a drill chuck in it, but I immediately knocked the
>> taper out and installed an MT2-ER25 collet chuck instead.
>
> I need to look into a collet chuck for mine. I have a 3/4-inch shank
> end mill bit that i have been wanting to try out
Not sure what you intend to do, but note that drill presses
do not care to have sideways loads applied. That's why
mill cutters are run in mills, not drill presses.
John
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:mi3pd2$tto$2
@dont-email.me:
> On Sat, 2 May 2015 22:35:52 +0000 (UTC)
> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Not sure what you intend to do, but note that drill presses
>> do not care to have sideways loads applied. That's why
>
>
> thanks for caring about my drill press so much
>
> don't think it matters since it won't be a lot of pressure sideways
That was kind of my point - if you're just going up & down,
you're fine; that's what the drill press is designed to do.
If you want to use it like a mill, that's not such a good idea.
John
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:mifus7$28e$2
@dont-email.me:
> my chuck is MT2 and now i wonder how the chuck is attached to the MT2
> is it screw in or is it also an MT
I beleive chucks come one of two ways - either all one piece
("integral arbor") or with a Jacobs taper.
John
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:mij2as$2j3$4
@dont-email.me:
> On Fri, 08 May 2015 14:25:23 -0400
> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> So there is the mt taper for going into the spindle,
>> and then they is usually but not always a J taper or sometimes other
>> tape for the MT arbor to the chuck.
>>
>> There are wedges used to pop them apart. You can buy the reasonably.
>> They are meant to remove the part w/o destroying the chuck. The
>> pressure is put on the landing around the abor, not on the moveable
>> ring that tightens the chuck.
>>
>> I think they can be had for around $16 ..
>
> do the wedges go inside the chuck jaws
>
> looking at the chuck that is my best guess
>
>
> this drill press was a tool rescue
> it was outdoors
> it had fallen face first at some point
>
> i cleaned the MT2 as it was falling out and could not get a
> firm purchase
>
> but i want to dismantle the chuck end and clean it also
You don't want to do what you're wanting to do. Jacobs
taper really don't want to be taken apart.
But anyway - the wedges go between the top of the chuck and
the shoulder on the arbor - assuming there is a shoulder on
the arbor, which there often isn't.
If there's no shoulder on the arbor, you turn the chuck
upside down and drill a big hole in the end, and use a
drift to drive the arbor out. Or better yet, a hydraulic
press.
John
In the Delta, the entire spindle - from the morse affixed chuck up
through the cone pulleys. One extracts that full length and inserts
another that is a Tool holder - it attaches to the drill or attaches to
another tool. Dad had a third that attached to wood cutters. With a
nice rack on both sides of his wood table - he was able to make picture
frames without problems. Make moldings and other like work.
It was a multifunctional heavy duty drill press with three cones that
two belts were changed through for various speeds and torques.
It was stolen from my brothers wood shop while he was away instructing
in Tank school in Tenn. some years ago.
Martin
On 5/2/2015 2:35 AM, John Doe wrote:
> Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?
>
> So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on in
> place of the chuck.
>
> I just need a keyword to search for. Assuming it exists. Of course it
> would be drill chuck thread specific.
>
> Thanks.
>
Look for a screw of some sort in the throat of the chuck.
Might be there and if there - take it out and then you can
extract the chuck off the arbor.
Martin
On 5/8/2015 1:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 5/7/2015 4:38 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
>> On Thu, 7 May 2015 19:49:17 +0000 (UTC)
>> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> I beleive chucks come one of two ways - either all one piece
>>> ("integral arbor") or with a Jacobs taper.
>>
>> this looks like it's two pieces
>>
>> if it is two is it possible to separate them
>>
>>
>>
>
> So there is the mt taper for going into the spindle,
> and then they is usually but not always a J taper or sometimes other
> tape for the MT arbor to the chuck.
>
> There are wedges used to pop them apart. You can buy the reasonably.
> They are meant to remove the part w/o destroying the chuck. The
> pressure is put on the landing around the abor, not on the moveable ring
> that tightens the chuck.
>
> I think they can be had for around $16 ..
>
>
On Sat, 02 May 2015 04:43:51 -0700, Dr. Deb wrote:
> One last thing, assuming your drill press does have a #2 Morse Taper,
> changing the bits will only require a slight tap with the a drift
> designed for your drill press, which is a wedged shaped of steel that
> slides in the slot on the quill and presses down on the end of the
> bit/taper.
I'm amazed that after 20 years or so, I've still got the drift that came
with my drill press - I used it once to see how it worked :-).
"Bob Engelhardt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Most of the non-commercial attachments are made to be held by the
> chuck. E.g., sanding disk.
>
> As to your actual question ("...keyword to search for ...") - can't
> help.
>
> Bob
http://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI87140-Spindle-Adapter/dp/B000K1LI0A
"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?
>
> So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on in
> place of the chuck.
>
> I just need a keyword to search for. Assuming it exists. Of course it
> would be drill chuck thread specific.
>
> Thanks.
What exactly are you looking for and/or trying to do?
I have two drill presses in my shop that have never had a drill chuck on
them. They came out of the box and I installed tapping heads in them
instead. I have a third machine (a mill drill) that came to my shop used
with a drill chuck in it, but I immediately knocked the taper out and
installed an MT2-ER25 collet chuck instead.
So, anyway, are you saying that you You have a drill with a male threaded
spindle nose? What do you want to screw onto it? If its just a protector
for the threads I would suggest you identify the thread and find an all
thread coupler that size.
"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote
>> Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?
>>
>> So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on
>> in place of the chuck.
>>
>> I just need a keyword to search for. Assuming it exists. Of course it
>> would be drill chuck thread specific.
> What exactly are you looking for and/or trying to do?
What has been already readily understood by most reply authors in this
thread.
--
Thanks to the replies.
On Sat, 2 May 2015 12:20:36 -0700
"Bob La Londe" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have two drill presses in my shop that have never had a drill chuck
> on them. They came out of the box and I installed tapping heads in
> them instead. I have a third machine (a mill drill) that came to my
> shop used with a drill chuck in it, but I immediately knocked the
> taper out and installed an MT2-ER25 collet chuck instead.
I need to look into a collet chuck for mine. I have a 3/4-inch shank
end mill bit that i have been wanting to try out
but nothing that's big enough to hold a 3/4-inch shank
> "John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
Ah, much better now.
On Sat, 2 May 2015 22:35:52 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> Not sure what you intend to do, but note that drill presses
> do not care to have sideways loads applied. That's why
thanks for caring about my drill press so much
don't think it matters since it won't be a lot of pressure sideways
Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sat, 2 May 2015 22:35:52 +0000 (UTC)
> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Not sure what you intend to do, but note that drill presses
>> do not care to have sideways loads applied. That's why
>
>
> thanks for caring about my drill press so much
>
> don't think it matters since it won't be a lot of pressure sideways
Well - if you don't care for the input, or feel that you know better than
those providing the input - then why in the hell ask for it?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sun, 3 May 2015 13:38:07 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> That was kind of my point - if you're just going up & down,
> you're fine; that's what the drill press is designed to do.
> If you want to use it like a mill, that's not such a good idea.
obviously
has anyone called you Major Obvious
or maybe General or Captain
"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Electric Comet <[email protected]> writes:
>>On Sun, 3 May 2015 13:38:07 +0000 (UTC)
>>John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> That was kind of my point - if you're just going up & down,
>>> you're fine; that's what the drill press is designed to do.
>>> If you want to use it like a mill, that's not such a good idea.
>>
>>obviously
>>
>>has anyone called you Major Obvious
>>or maybe General or Captain
>>
>
> Most people think name calling is for grade schoolers.
NUT-UH!
On 7 May 2015 03:54:45 GMT
"DoN. Nichols" <[email protected]> wrote:
> the housing hold the drill aproximately square to the surface, and it
> catches the drillings to keep them from falling into your eyes.
never seen one of these sounds like a little overkill but could be
useful
i have seen clear plastic collars attached to catch the drillings
> I could perhaps picture some kind of tapping head which would
> replace the chuck, and which would have an extension to keep the body
> from rotating relative to the drill motor. (Similar things, with Morse
have never seen one but maybe they exist might need to be custom made
> taper adaptors, fit my drill press. The ones which I have are made by
> TapMatic -- but I have never seen one with a thread to fit a drill
> motor.
my chuck is MT2 and now i wonder how the chuck is attached to the MT2
is it screw in or is it also an MT
On Thu, 7 May 2015 19:49:17 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> I beleive chucks come one of two ways - either all one piece
> ("integral arbor") or with a Jacobs taper.
this looks like it's two pieces
if it is two is it possible to separate them
On Fri, 08 May 2015 14:25:23 -0400
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> So there is the mt taper for going into the spindle,
> and then they is usually but not always a J taper or sometimes other
> tape for the MT arbor to the chuck.
>
> There are wedges used to pop them apart. You can buy the reasonably.
> They are meant to remove the part w/o destroying the chuck. The
> pressure is put on the landing around the abor, not on the moveable
> ring that tightens the chuck.
>
> I think they can be had for around $16 ..
do the wedges go inside the chuck jaws
looking at the chuck that is my best guess
this drill press was a tool rescue
it was outdoors
it had fallen face first at some point
i cleaned the MT2 as it was falling out and could not get a
firm purchase
but i want to dismantle the chuck end and clean it also
On 5/8/15 9:38 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> Look for a screw of some sort in the throat of the chuck.
> Might be there and if there - take it out and then you can
> extract the chuck off the arbor.
>
> Martin
And often these screws are reverse thread (lefty tighty, righty loosy)
-BR
>
> On 5/8/2015 1:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 5/7/2015 4:38 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
>>> On Thu, 7 May 2015 19:49:17 +0000 (UTC)
>>> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I beleive chucks come one of two ways - either all one piece
>>>> ("integral arbor") or with a Jacobs taper.
>>>
>>> this looks like it's two pieces
>>>
>>> if it is two is it possible to separate them
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> So there is the mt taper for going into the spindle,
>> and then they is usually but not always a J taper or sometimes other
>> tape for the MT arbor to the chuck.
>>
>> There are wedges used to pop them apart. You can buy the reasonably.
>> They are meant to remove the part w/o destroying the chuck. The
>> pressure is put on the landing around the abor, not on the moveable ring
>> that tightens the chuck.
>>
>> I think they can be had for around $16 ..
>>
>>
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
On Fri, 08 May 2015 22:38:14 -0500
Martin Eastburn <[email protected]> wrote:
> Look for a screw of some sort in the throat of the chuck.
> Might be there and if there - take it out and then you can
> extract the chuck off the arbor.
i fear it will be rusted tight but maybe i will get lucky
i fear it will be a philips head
will found out today
On Fri, 08 May 2015 14:25:23 -0400
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> So there is the mt taper for going into the spindle,
> and then they is usually but not always a J taper or sometimes other
> tape for the MT arbor to the chuck.
you were correct about the J taper it looked like MT3 but
regardless I got that free from the chuck as there was a hole in the
top of the chuck and it was easy to use a punch inside the chuck jaws
my next step was to dismantle the chuck
i bored a hole in a 2x4 and tried to press the piece apart but the
2x4 wasn't hard enough and did not survive so i need to try some
harder wood
found some good instructions albeit conflicting about whether or
not jaws should be closed or half way, etc.
i tried the half way suggestion
On 2015-05-02, John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> John Doe <[email protected]> wrote in news:mi1uoe$iu4$1@dont-
> email.me:
>
>> Are there any common drill attachments that go in place of the chuck?
>>
>> So that when the chuck is removed, the attachment can be screwed on in
>> place of the chuck.
>
> That's a good question. I can't think of anything that would
> be screwed onto a drill in place of the chuck, other than
> another chuck.
Well ... I have somewhere (or had somewhere) a device which fits
between the threaded chuck on a hand-held electric drill (called a
"drill motor") and the drill motor itself. It is a shaft, threaded male
on one end and female on the other, and it slides into a plastic housing
which tapers so you can grip it closer to the drill motor and the drill
bit can be retracted back into the housing. Its purpose is to use when
drilling overhead (ceiling, etc), where the six "feet" of the housing
hold the drill aproximately square to the surface, and it catches the
drillings to keep them from falling into your eyes.
I think that I used it once. :-)
And -- of course -- it only fit some of the drill motors which I
had. :-)
I could perhaps picture some kind of tapping head which would
replace the chuck, and which would have an extension to keep the body
from rotating relative to the drill motor. (Similar things, with Morse
taper adaptors, fit my drill press. The ones which I have are made by
TapMatic -- but I have never seen one with a thread to fit a drill
motor.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
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