PM

Pete Martin

08/11/2004 8:34 PM

shop notes #61

When I was in Phoenix, I had that issue. I wanted to build the
sharpening system from the drill press. Of course, I didn't have a drill
press at the time. Now I do and we've moved. I've lost that issue. Is
there someone that could scan and email that particular article?

[email protected]

As an alternative, I'll take any and all suggestions on sharpening. I've
yet to actually do it (sharpen anything other than the lawn mower blade
- and rough at that!) so any suggestions, hints, books, etc would be
welcome.

pete


This topic has 5 replies

Aa

"AAvK"

in reply to Pete Martin on 08/11/2004 8:34 PM

08/11/2004 11:28 PM


> When I was in Phoenix, I had that issue. I wanted to build the
> sharpening system from the drill press. Of course, I didn't have a drill
> press at the time. Now I do and we've moved. I've lost that issue. Is
> there someone that could scan and email that particular article?
> [email protected]
> As an alternative, I'll take any and all suggestions on sharpening. I've
> yet to actually do it (sharpen anything other than the lawn mower blade
> - and rough at that!) so any suggestions, hints, books, etc would be
> welcome.
>
>
Is that anything like a wheel power strop? Leather disc?

Alex

b

in reply to Pete Martin on 08/11/2004 8:34 PM

08/11/2004 10:57 PM

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 20:34:27 -0800, Pete Martin
<[email protected]> wrote:

>When I was in Phoenix, I had that issue. I wanted to build the
>sharpening system from the drill press. Of course, I didn't have a drill
>press at the time. Now I do and we've moved. I've lost that issue. Is
>there someone that could scan and email that particular article?
>
>[email protected]
>
>As an alternative, I'll take any and all suggestions on sharpening. I've
>yet to actually do it (sharpen anything other than the lawn mower blade
>- and rough at that!) so any suggestions, hints, books, etc would be
>welcome.
>
>pete


unless the drill press is way stouter than today's typical taiwanese
morse taper chuck mounted machines it'll make a lousy sharpening
machine.

this book is a good place to start:
<http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32991&category=1,46096,46107&abspage=1&ccurrency=2&SID=>

Aa

"AAvK"

in reply to Pete Martin on 08/11/2004 8:34 PM

09/11/2004 11:40 AM


> Right. A wheel is built up; sandpaper(?) applied around the
> circumference; leather on top from what I can see from the picture. I
> went to a yahoo site I think. That volume is out of print.
>
>
I made one and almost finished. It's 2 1/4" thick, X about 7 1/8" across the face.
I used two 3/4" plywood layers and the top layer is 3/4" melamine particle board
for flatness. Cut them on a band saw with a simple jig.

I had the arbor cut by a machinist, 5/8" cold roll rod with a standard 5/8" threading
for 6", and lathed down to 1/2" thickness for a 1 1/4" distance for the chuck end.
10" total length, $25.

I bought horse butt leather (very tough!), I cut the disc using a pen scribe with a
carbide tip (General) (the roundness of that tip keeps it from cutting off track),
then finished the cut with a pocket knife when the kerf was thin enough. I used the
circumference of the finished disc to guide the cutting. eBay: 8113490412 is the
only place I've found it, and that seller's website: Brettuns Village.

Around the circumference will be a strip of the rougher side of the same leather, at
about 1/2 the depth and maybe something else for the other half. This will be
roughly 24" long! There are the different bars of rouge, green and white compounds
to consider so it might be all leather on the circumference side.

The only adhesive will be a light amount of 3m super 77. You can also make discs
of 1/4" thin PB (what's it called, clipboards are made of it, dark brown) that are
removeable, maybe using hook and loop (velcro) to attach them. That way you could
make any number of abrasive discs, just for the top. With this idea you can also flip
the whole disc over on the arbor.

The idea will work fine with a drill press as long as you can get the speed down as
low as is possible to avoid bluing the metal with heat and destroying the temper,
currently I can't do that but I will risk trying it, 600 rpm. The most important thing to
work out is the arbor hole MUST be *perfectly* centered, or it will wobble and not
be good for drill press.

I did it all out of my own strange head, you don't need a "design". Just measurements.

Alex

PM

Pete Martin

in reply to Pete Martin on 08/11/2004 8:34 PM

09/11/2004 8:15 AM

Right. A wheel is built up; sandpaper(?) applied around the
circumference; leather on top from what I can see from the picture. I
went to a yahoo site I think. That volume is out of print.

AAvK wrote:
>>When I was in Phoenix, I had that issue. I wanted to build the
>>sharpening system from the drill press. Of course, I didn't have a drill
>>press at the time. Now I do and we've moved. I've lost that issue. Is
>>there someone that could scan and email that particular article?
>>[email protected]
>>As an alternative, I'll take any and all suggestions on sharpening. I've
>>yet to actually do it (sharpen anything other than the lawn mower blade
>>- and rough at that!) so any suggestions, hints, books, etc would be
>>welcome.
>>
>>
>
> Is that anything like a wheel power strop? Leather disc?
>
> Alex
>
>

JB

Jim Behning

in reply to Pete Martin on 08/11/2004 8:34 PM

09/11/2004 1:08 PM

http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM

Pete Martin <[email protected]> wrote:

>When I was in Phoenix, I had that issue. I wanted to build the
>sharpening system from the drill press. Of course, I didn't have a drill
>press at the time. Now I do and we've moved. I've lost that issue. Is
>there someone that could scan and email that particular article?
>
>[email protected]
>
>As an alternative, I'll take any and all suggestions on sharpening. I've
>yet to actually do it (sharpen anything other than the lawn mower blade
>- and rough at that!) so any suggestions, hints, books, etc would be
>welcome.
>
>pete


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