DG

"Dick G."

01/03/2006 5:04 AM

false glass door muntins

I have glued up 6 cope & stick doors. They are 16" wide and 60" tall
and 1" thick. The stiles and rails are about 2 3/4" wide. I used the
Freud repositionable bead cutter to join them and now have a bunch of
loose inside beads which when micropinned in place will match the bead
which will appear on the outside of the door around the glass.

My first step is to glue a bunch of these beads longitudinally back to
back so that they' have a two sided muntin pattern either side of which
can be coped into the alradey routed outside door beads. I will cut and
dry fit these into the glass bead edges while the door glass bead frame
is resting over a temporary 3/4 sheet of melamine coated fiberboard--in
stead of the glass.

So, I'll be working with 5/16" thick (and about 7/8" wide) made-up
false muntins which I can angle cut as needed and apply to the glass
with a pattern that will have three X-shaped muntin patterns with or
without 2 horizontals between them. Illustration of 1/3 of the face
panel follows:


cxxxxxxxxc
c xc
xc x x
x x x x
x cc x
x x x x
x x x x
x c x c
cxxxxxxxxc

If I miter these into the door stiles, the female parts of the
intersections marked c would be inset with mitered dozuki saw cuts. I
will do the male mitering on a disc sander.

However, I'd prefer to cope them. Does anyone have experience or
router or shaper ideas that would help accompish this with coping
instead of mitered joinery?

I think using a router to cope the ends would shred the muntin ends. I
suppose I could make up a jig or jigs to lock the ends inside a coping
sled made up with a double pattern that would "trap" the muntin in
place for routing with against the sled's integral double "backer
boards", but other ideas would be welcome.

Also, I think I should use cyanoacrilate, epoxy or perhaps some kind of
hot melt glue. Any thoughts on this?

My final step wil be to take the doors off the melamine board, coat the
inside of the false muntins with either foam tape or enough acrylic
caulk to get sqeeze out,then press the glass into place and razor cut
the excess tape or caulk.

Any help or experience with any of this would be appreciated.

Thanks.