Feeling Fine Fettle

"U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles Krug"@cdksystems.com> wrote in message news:<2620d.85$PJ3.10@trndny09>...

> [little snip]
>
> Here's my gameplan for the iron:
>
> 1. Scribe a square line
> 2. Machine grind to the square line, more or less restablishing the
> primary bevel
> 3. Dress the bevel to 120 grit using a Veritas honing jig.
> 4. Scary sharp the back of the iron to 2000 grit.
> 5. Polish the primary bevel to 2000 grit.
> 6. Add a 1-degree secondary bevel.
>
> Are these the right steps in the right order?

Yep. Just be careful when machine grinding, as it's easy to
overheat the iron.

> For the capiron, I'm "merely" going to polish the bearing edge. It's
> fairly clean.
>
> The bearing surface of the frog is VERY clean. I don't think it needs
> attention.
>
> I did a "cleaning pass" on the sole using 120 grit on my lapping plate.
> It's VERY evident that there's a slight depression in the center of the
> sole, both fore and aft of the mouth. How deep a depression need I
> worry about? It's clearly not abraded when I look at the sole after
> lapping. I can see the depression only if I look parallell to the
> surface in EXCELLENT light. I'm not sure about how deep beyond "Damn
> shallow."

One question: Did you have the iron in place as if you were going
to use the plane (but retracted, obviously) when doing that test? The
stresses placed on the plane by the cap-iron being locked down and the
iron in place can make a distinct difference in the flatness of the
sole.

> I can't think of a reason to fret about surface patina. Should I?

Not unless there's rust there too.

> Finally, when I reassemble, do I lubricate? With what?

I don't do much lubrication of plane parts. If anything, I take
the hunk of parrafin I keep for lubing the sole and give it a few
swipes on the threads of the adjuster.


Chuck Vance

Charles Krug wrote:>I did a "cleaning pass" on the sole using 120 grit on my
lapping plate.
>It's VERY evident that there's a slight depression in the center of the
>sole, both fore and aft of the mouth. How deep a depression need I
>worry about? It's clearly not abraded when I look at the sole after
>lapping. I can see the depression only if I look parallell to the
>surface in EXCELLENT light. I'm not sure about how deep beyond "Damn
>shallow."
http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/flatsole/flatsoler.htm
Watch the wrap. Any reation to the wine producers
in California? Tom
Work at your leisure!

U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles wrote:
> No wrap. I saw that one this morning. Haven't decided whether or not
> I'm a "Flat Soler" but he seems to think that if there's a depression in
> front of the mouth it's a doorstop, which doesn't make sense for a 60yo
> Bailey. Trouble is, he doesn't say how bad a divot is "bad."

Then use the test that counts. Talk to a board with it and see if
you can live with the results.
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/

Greetings and Salutations.

On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 21:25:46 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles
Krug"@cdksystems.com> wrote:

>On 09 Sep 2004 20:52:52 GMT, Tom <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Charles Krug wrote:>I did a "cleaning pass" on the sole using 120 grit on my
>> lapping plate.
>>>It's VERY evident that there's a slight depression in the center of the
>>>sole, both fore and aft of the mouth. How deep a depression need I
>>>worry about? It's clearly not abraded when I look at the sole after
>>>lapping. I can see the depression only if I look parallell to the
>>>surface in EXCELLENT light. I'm not sure about how deep beyond "Damn
>>>shallow."
>> http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/flatsole/flatsoler.htm
>
>No wrap. I saw that one this morning. Haven't decided whether or not
>I'm a "Flat Soler" but he seems to think that if there's a depression in
>front of the mouth it's a doorstop, which doesn't make sense for a 60yo
>Bailey. Trouble is, he doesn't say how bad a divot is "bad."
>
>> Watch the wrap. Any reation to the wine producers
>> in California? Tom
>> Work at your leisure!
>
>Nope. Nor to the French Champagne maker.
>

Well, FWIW, that is exactly the sole pattern used in Japanese
planes. As long as the mouth area, a point at the FRONT of the plane
and a point at the tail of the plane are all in a straight line, there
should not be a serious problem.
Actually, planes are manufactured with corrogated bottoms, to
cut down on the amount of friction involved in pushing the plane
along the wood. I am not sure whether this is science or tradition,
as I have both types and can't see that much difference in their
performance.
I would tune it a bit (as sounds as if it has been done),
make sure the blade is Scary Sharp, and, have at the wood. If
you have problems with it not cutting well, then, look at taking
the base down a bit more.
By the by...I have found that for major edits like that,
a fine belt on a 4"x36" or 6"x48" belt sander works great. Use
a light cut, and, if possible set up a fence to ensure that the
bottom stays at a 90 degree angle to the side.
Regards
Dave Mundt

Got to make sure the blade is clean before stropping. Mine gets crud on it
anyway but a stiff nylon brush takes care of it.

"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 18:44:35 -0700, CW wrote:
>
> > Better yet, use a piece of leather and forget the compound.
>
> I don't put the compound on the leather; I use a piece of glass. Didn't
> write clearly before. Anyway, I find my plain leather gets gunked up with
> something. After a while it starts making scratches. Bits of wire edge, or
> something. Planed my stuck-to-a-board strop with a block plane and it's
> fine again. Anyone else have this problem with the strop?
>
> --
> "Keep your ass behind you"
>

On 10 Sep 2004 07:33:24 -0700, Conan The Librarian <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> Are these the right steps in the right order?
>
> Yep. Just be careful when machine grinding, as it's easy to
> overheat the iron.
>

Got it. I rarely machine grind, but I keep a spray bottle and a quench
tray near my grinder.

(snippage)

>> I did a "cleaning pass" on the sole using 120 grit on my lapping plate.
>> It's VERY evident that there's a slight depression in the center of the
>> sole, both fore and aft of the mouth. How deep a depression need I
>> worry about? It's clearly not abraded when I look at the sole after
>> lapping. I can see the depression only if I look parallell to the
>> surface in EXCELLENT light. I'm not sure about how deep beyond "Damn
>> shallow."
>
> One question: Did you have the iron in place as if you were going
> to use the plane (but retracted, obviously) when doing that test? The
> stresses placed on the plane by the cap-iron being locked down and the
> iron in place can make a distinct difference in the flatness of the
> sole.
>

Ahh . . . I didn't think of that. I was just lapping the empty body.
I'll try it that way.

"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 7. Strop when you're done with the 2000 grit. (Auto polishing compound
> _can_ suffice, if you don't have the green crayon 0.5 micron stuff.)


Better yet, use a piece of leather and forget the compound.

>> 1. Scribe a square line
>> 2. Machine grind to the square line, more or less restablishing the
>> primary bevel
>> 3. Dress the bevel to 120 grit using a Veritas honing jig.
>> 4. Scary sharp the back of the iron to 2000 grit.
>> 5. Polish the primary bevel to 2000 grit.
>> 6. Add a 1-degree secondary bevel.

(Got Leonard Lee's book for Bday. Got Ian Kirby's from the library. So-- )

2. Leave a lot of metal at the edge when you re-establish the bevel.
Avoids overheating a thin edge. Means more work at 120 grit. Relieve the
aft portion of the bevel on the grinder; don't hollow grind the whole
thang, just the aft third or so. Means less work at 120 grit.

5. Don't bother mirror polishing the primary bevel. Waste of
time, but it shore looks purty. Helps to have some visual contrast with
the secondary, in my experience.

6. Picky, picky. Depends on what wood you're using.

7. Strop when you're done with the 2000 grit. (Auto polishing compound
_can_ suffice, if you don't have the green crayon 0.5 micron stuff.)

--
"Keep your ass behind you"

On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 18:44:35 -0700, CW wrote:

> Better yet, use a piece of leather and forget the compound.

I don't put the compound on the leather; I use a piece of glass. Didn't
write clearly before. Anyway, I find my plain leather gets gunked up with
something. After a while it starts making scratches. Bits of wire edge, or
something. Planed my stuck-to-a-board strop with a block plane and it's
fine again. Anyone else have this problem with the strop?

--
"Keep your ass behind you"

On 09 Sep 2004 20:52:52 GMT, Tom <[email protected]> wrote:
> Charles Krug wrote:>I did a "cleaning pass" on the sole using 120 grit on my
> lapping plate.
>>It's VERY evident that there's a slight depression in the center of the
>>sole, both fore and aft of the mouth. How deep a depression need I
>>worry about? It's clearly not abraded when I look at the sole after
>>lapping. I can see the depression only if I look parallell to the
>>surface in EXCELLENT light. I'm not sure about how deep beyond "Damn
>>shallow."
> http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/flatsole/flatsoler.htm

No wrap. I saw that one this morning. Haven't decided whether or not
I'm a "Flat Soler" but he seems to think that if there's a depression in
front of the mouth it's a doorstop, which doesn't make sense for a 60yo
Bailey. Trouble is, he doesn't say how bad a divot is "bad."

> Watch the wrap. Any reation to the wine producers
> in California? Tom
> Work at your leisure!

Nope. Nor to the French Champagne maker.