WL

"Wade Lippman"

22/09/2003 7:44 PM

Good wood filler?

Okay, my work didn't come out quite perfect, and I need to fill a few spots
in.
I am using red oak. I have a can of "famowood", but it takes up stain much
more than wood, and looks really lousy.
Is there a better product?
I have tried glue and sawdust, but that is crummy to work with.


This topic has 7 replies

WL

"Wade Lippman"

in reply to "Wade Lippman" on 22/09/2003 7:44 PM

23/09/2003 1:02 PM


"jim wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Okay, my work didn't come out quite perfect, and I need to fill a few
spots
> > in.
> > I am using red oak. I have a can of "famowood", but it takes up stain
much
> > more than wood, and looks really lousy.
> > Is there a better product?
> > I have tried glue and sawdust, but that is crummy to work with.
>
> I got frustrated with DIY sawdust filler (tried numberous
> combinations)..
> Comerical fillers also left me unsatisfied.
>
> Now I use the Behlen burn in filler. It has a small iron (kind of like
> a soldering iron), and sticks you melt in
> which hardened nicely and stay in (unlike wax sticks)..
>
> Woodcraft has the iron for about $30, and the sticks are about $3
> each.
> One stick will last a long time.
>
> I stain the piece, melt the filler in the holes (filler sticks are
> colored,
> so stain first to match color).. Then I poly over it..
>
> I really think it is an ass kicking system.. By far the best and very
> convient.

Does it sand well?

Rr

"Rumpty"

in reply to "Wade Lippman" on 22/09/2003 7:44 PM

22/09/2003 10:04 PM

Famowood "Fir" works very well on red oak. We use it all the time for
pimples and such on red oak and we finish with both water based stain and
Minwax stain, it matches well under these conditions.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Okay, my work didn't come out quite perfect, and I need to fill a few
spots
> in.
> I am using red oak. I have a can of "famowood", but it takes up stain
much
> more than wood, and looks really lousy.
> Is there a better product?
> I have tried glue and sawdust, but that is crummy to work with.
>
>

EO

"Ed. O."

in reply to "Wade Lippman" on 22/09/2003 7:44 PM

22/09/2003 5:33 PM

Shellac and sawdust. Closest match and any finish will go over it.

--
Ed. O.
My woodworking projects at:
http://www.amiigas.com
Remove the NAIL from e-mail to reply

JJ

[email protected] (Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT)

in reply to "Ed. O." on 22/09/2003 5:33 PM

23/09/2003 12:03 AM

Mon, Sep 22, 2003, 5:33pm [email protected] (Ed.=A0O.) says:
Shellac and sawdust. Closest match and any finish will go over it.

The way I prefer doing it is, a bit of shellac on the work, then
sand.

JOAT
The whole of life is a learning process.
- John Keel

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 22 Sep 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/

jj

[email protected] (jim wilson)

in reply to "Wade Lippman" on 22/09/2003 7:44 PM

23/09/2003 5:50 AM

"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Okay, my work didn't come out quite perfect, and I need to fill a few spots
> in.
> I am using red oak. I have a can of "famowood", but it takes up stain much
> more than wood, and looks really lousy.
> Is there a better product?
> I have tried glue and sawdust, but that is crummy to work with.

I got frustrated with DIY sawdust filler (tried numberous
combinations)..
Comerical fillers also left me unsatisfied.

Now I use the Behlen burn in filler. It has a small iron (kind of like
a soldering iron), and sticks you melt in
which hardened nicely and stay in (unlike wax sticks)..

Woodcraft has the iron for about $30, and the sticks are about $3
each.
One stick will last a long time.

I stain the piece, melt the filler in the holes (filler sticks are
colored,
so stain first to match color).. Then I poly over it..

I really think it is an ass kicking system.. By far the best and very
convient.

jj

[email protected] (jim wilson)

in reply to "Wade Lippman" on 22/09/2003 7:44 PM

24/09/2003 1:25 PM

.
>
> Does it sand well?

The behlen melt in wood filler does sand well.. However, you need to
be gentle.
Keep in mind, I like to fill after it is stained, so I don't want to
sand off the stain..

What I do is fill the hole first.. slightly overfill so there's a
bump. Then they sell a paste like substance (I can look up the name
for you at home). You take the paste like substance and rub it around
the batch where you don't want the filler to stick.. Then you take the
heating iron and use it kind of like a drywall knife, and smooth it
down to the level of the wood.. most of the excess will be on the hot
knife, and you can wipe off around the hole. Usually
this is good enough for me. (This procedure does require practice
though).
But you can lightly sand it if you want.

I poly after filling because I've learned the heat gun will melt the
poly.

One small downside is that the filled holes are slightly more glossy.
It's really not that noticable though.. It certainly looks 100000
times better than
any commerical or sawdust fillers I've used. The color matching is
excellent, at least on the stain colors I use. I have six different
shades that I use for oak, and between them, I can match pretty much
anything well.

I've read that you can use vasoline for the non-stick paste like
substance, but I've never tried it.. I want to try it on a scrap some
day.

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to "Wade Lippman" on 22/09/2003 7:44 PM

22/09/2003 9:22 PM

I like FIX Wood Patch..


"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Okay, my work didn't come out quite perfect, and I need to fill a few
spots
> in.
> I am using red oak. I have a can of "famowood", but it takes up stain
much
> more than wood, and looks really lousy.
> Is there a better product?
> I have tried glue and sawdust, but that is crummy to work with.
>
>


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