I made a Myrtlewood backing for weather instruments and decided to use
Shellac for the finish. (never used it before). It was rewarding to
learn the old fashioned french polishing methods and I'm very happy
with the results.
However the finish has a mirror shine and I'd like to get to satin.
How long should I let the shellac cure before proceeding?
Should I sand the surface with something like 1000 grit sandpaper or
just use 0000 steel wool to get to satin? What rubbing media should I
use? Undiluted Murphy's Oil soap, paint thinner, mineral oil, etc??
Any other tips for turning gloss Shellac into satin?
>
> there's a lot of ways to skin a cat.
>
> My preference for getting the satin look is quite simple: maroon, and
> then gray synthetic steel wool pads. I personally don't feel the need to
> wait more a couple of days after the last coat has been applied under
> ideal conditions. I've used mineral oil with good results. NOT paint
> thinner!
>
> Dave
Mineral oil is a good choice. Murhpys oil soap as well, just dry it
promply.
Don't quite know why Dave discorages Paint Thinner.
Paint Thinner (mineral spirits) will not harm the shellac. Neither
will Naptha. I use both to clean the mineral oil off.
[email protected] wrote:
> I made a Myrtlewood backing for weather instruments and decided to use
> Shellac for the finish. (never used it before). It was rewarding to
> learn the old fashioned french polishing methods and I'm very happy
> with the results.
>
> However the finish has a mirror shine and I'd like to get to satin.
>
> How long should I let the shellac cure before proceeding?
>
> Should I sand the surface with something like 1000 grit sandpaper or
> just use 0000 steel wool to get to satin? What rubbing media should I
> use? Undiluted Murphy's Oil soap, paint thinner, mineral oil, etc??
>
> Any other tips for turning gloss Shellac into satin?
>
there's a lot of ways to skin a cat.
My preference for getting the satin look is quite simple: maroon, and
then gray synthetic steel wool pads. I personally don't feel the need to
wait more a couple of days after the last coat has been applied under
ideal conditions. I've used mineral oil with good results. NOT paint
thinner!
Dave
[email protected] wrote in news:1156888808.679696.252860
@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com:
> I made a Myrtlewood backing for weather instruments and decided to use
> Shellac for the finish. (never used it before). It was rewarding to
> learn the old fashioned french polishing methods and I'm very happy
> with the results.
>
> However the finish has a mirror shine and I'd like to get to satin.
>
> How long should I let the shellac cure before proceeding?
>
> Should I sand the surface with something like 1000 grit sandpaper or
> just use 0000 steel wool to get to satin? What rubbing media should I
> use? Undiluted Murphy's Oil soap, paint thinner, mineral oil, etc??
>
> Any other tips for turning gloss Shellac into satin?
>
>
0000 steeel wool and a good paste wax, at least a week after your last
coat of shellac. Go easy, as you're building the scratch pattern for
the satin finish.
Patriarch
Why *not* paint thinner as a rubbing lubricant? It should have no effect
on the shellac and it dries off without having to be removed. I use it
as a padding lube when applying shellac and it works as well or better
than oil without the subsequent clean-up.
And shellac shouldn't need long to cure. If it's still soft after a few
hours, it's too old to use (unless you've loaded it on too thickly).
Freshly mixed shellac is always best and dries very hard very quickly.
> My preference for getting the satin look is quite simple: maroon, and
> then gray synthetic steel wool pads. I personally don't feel the need to
> wait more a couple of days after the last coat has been applied under
> ideal conditions. I've used mineral oil with good results. NOT paint
> thinner!
>
--
Ron Hock
HOCK TOOLS www.hocktools.com