In looking through prior postings this has been beat to death but I'd
like to poll folks before making a mess.
I's like to find or make a filler for birch that will accept stain well.
I'm leaning towards birch sanding dust mixed with nitrocellulose
lacquer. I see reference in prior postings to using shellac and PVA
glues like Titebond as the liquid to be mixed with the dust. I don't
see how much stain will be absorbed by any PVA glue, I'm not certain
about shellac.
Am I better off if I "pre-stain" by mixing stain with the lacquer or
will I get better results by staining the entire piece at one time?
In the past I've been disappointed with any filler I've bought.
Thanks,
Phil
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 23:39:14 -0400, Phil <[email protected]> Crawled
out of the shop and said. . .:
>In looking through prior postings this has been beat to death but I'd
>like to poll folks before making a mess.
>
>I's like to find or make a filler for birch that will accept stain well.
i have had good results with the rockler stuff called "wunderfill"
give it a try
T.
Goop-On takes stain very well. Used in the floor trade. May hard to find. I
use dust and wood flour cement, also known as wood doe base. Lacquer based.
M Hamlin
"Phil" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In looking through prior postings this has been beat to death but I'd
> like to poll folks before making a mess.
>
> I's like to find or make a filler for birch that will accept stain well.
> I'm leaning towards birch sanding dust mixed with nitrocellulose
> lacquer. I see reference in prior postings to using shellac and PVA
> glues like Titebond as the liquid to be mixed with the dust. I don't
> see how much stain will be absorbed by any PVA glue, I'm not certain
> about shellac.
>
> Am I better off if I "pre-stain" by mixing stain with the lacquer or
> will I get better results by staining the entire piece at one time?
>
> In the past I've been disappointed with any filler I've bought.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> If you are only concerned about less-than-perfect fitting joints, you
might
> consider just rubbing the dust in and holding it with the oil in the
stain.
> There's enough hold in the average stain to do this if you apply your
finish
> carefully. The Watco lovers know about using sanding slurry to fill.
But how long will it stay?
In the old floor days a mechanic would fill every hole by hand with the
proper color to match the grain/wood color. He'd have 4-5 color mixes.
M Hamlin
laquer or glue will act as a barrier to stain . sand out and then stain,
then fill the grain with coats of clear sand and sealer. when to your satis
faction shoot a couple of coats of clear laquer . You could mix color into
the final laquer coat but that is reserved for low quality stuff or special
situations [in my opinion] mjh
--
mike hide
"Phil" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In looking through prior postings this has been beat to death but I'd
> like to poll folks before making a mess.
>
> I's like to find or make a filler for birch that will accept stain well.
> I'm leaning towards birch sanding dust mixed with nitrocellulose
> lacquer. I see reference in prior postings to using shellac and PVA
> glues like Titebond as the liquid to be mixed with the dust. I don't
> see how much stain will be absorbed by any PVA glue, I'm not certain
> about shellac.
>
> Am I better off if I "pre-stain" by mixing stain with the lacquer or
> will I get better results by staining the entire piece at one time?
>
> In the past I've been disappointed with any filler I've bought.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
Lacquer and dust pretty much describes wood putty, which will bridge large
gaps. Heavy the dust, light the lacquer will accept stain, but it'll never
look like wood, because it's going to soak light. That's why any filler
will disappoint, it'll absorb stain and light differently than the wood.
If you are only concerned about less-than-perfect fitting joints, you might
consider just rubbing the dust in and holding it with the oil in the stain.
There's enough hold in the average stain to do this if you apply your finish
carefully. The Watco lovers know about using sanding slurry to fill.
Anything bigger and I'd consider wedging or a Dutchman to cover.
"Phil" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In looking through prior postings this has been beat to death but I'd
> like to poll folks before making a mess.
>
> I's like to find or make a filler for birch that will accept stain well.
> I'm leaning towards birch sanding dust mixed with nitrocellulose
> lacquer. I see reference in prior postings to using shellac and PVA
> glues like Titebond as the liquid to be mixed with the dust. I don't
> see how much stain will be absorbed by any PVA glue, I'm not certain
> about shellac.
>
> Am I better off if I "pre-stain" by mixing stain with the lacquer or
> will I get better results by staining the entire piece at one time?
>
> In the past I've been disappointed with any filler I've bought.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
As long as the finish that seals it in.
"MSH" <lpnk@jaacom> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> "George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > If you are only concerned about less-than-perfect fitting joints, you
> might
> > consider just rubbing the dust in and holding it with the oil in the
> stain.
> > There's enough hold in the average stain to do this if you apply your
> finish
> > carefully. The Watco lovers know about using sanding slurry to fill.
>
> But how long will it stay?
>
> In the old floor days a mechanic would fill every hole by hand with the
> proper color to match the grain/wood color. He'd have 4-5 color mixes.
>
> M Hamlin
>
>