My experience with mahogany is that it is pretty stable. If you have
the ability to select the boards for your glue-up look for those most
closely cut as quartersawn. Look at the ends for ring lines that run
perpendicular to the face. Also finish it the same on both sides for
equal mositure changes.
On Feb 10, 3:11=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> I am working on a mahogany game table with a 31"X 31" top. Because of
> the way the drawer runners are oriented cleats under the top are not
> possible. Is this top to large, I mean will it warp with changes in
> humidity etc? Should I use substrate and PSA veneer?
> Thanks
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1d7f8d54-b6e5-4a34-aaad-a9a5dc34b8fe@w35g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
>I am working on a mahogany game table with a 31"X 31" top. Because of
> the way the drawer runners are oriented cleats under the top are not
> possible. Is this top to large, I mean will it warp with changes in
> humidity etc? Should I use substrate and PSA veneer?
> Thanks
Thickness?
How about construction. Is it two 16" boards or is it thirty one 1" boards?
Are you just trying to figure out a way to attach it?
A simple way is to just use figure 8 hardware. Those will allow for the
expansion/contraction across the width of the top and will give some help in
holding the panel flat.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1d7f8d54-b6e5-4a34-aaad-a9a5dc34b8fe@w35g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
> I am working on a mahogany game table with a 31"X 31" top. Because of
> the way the drawer runners are oriented cleats under the top are not
> possible. Is this top to large, I mean will it warp with changes in
> humidity etc? Should I use substrate and PSA veneer?
> Thanks