Ron Magen wrote:
> One of the 'purchased items was a set of Ceramic Blocks. I tend to
> use 'wider' blades. On the occasions that I will use blades under
> 1/4in, or need to 'copy' a template {and therefore 'bury' the
> blade} I'll switch back to the 'softer' ones.
> Plus probably make
> some 'wooden' ones from oil-infused Walnut.
You being a boatshop guy, why not lignum vitae? It was made for the
purpose, works great.
--
dadiOH
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"Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just picked up "The new complete guide to the Band Saw" and I get the
>impression that cool blocks are a better choice than bearings. He ( Mark
>Duginske) invented and pantented them. For all around, general use are the
>cool blocks better? What do you preffer?
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
About 18 months ago I went from a Craftsman to an 18" Rikon with roller
bearings. I kept the Rikon for 2 weeks and returned it. I replaced it with
a saw that has ceramic guides.
Roller bearings tend to be very noisy and they will in many instances and
especially when cutting green wood, load up with debris and bang against the
blade. They are a neat idea that probably works under the right conditions
and with "dry" wood but I prefer the non roller guides. The ceramic blades
tend to scrape and keep the blade clean.
On Sat, 25 Aug 2007 07:12:03 -0500, Leon wrote:
> Roller bearings tend to be very noisy and they will in many instances and
> especially when cutting green wood, load up with debris and bang against the
> blade. They are a neat idea that probably works under the right conditions
> and with "dry" wood but I prefer the non roller guides. The ceramic blades
> tend to scrape and keep the blade clean.
I've mentioned this before, but after having that problem when cutting
green wood, I cleaned the blade and wiped it with a TopCote like product
whose name escapes me. No more problems.
Jimmy,
There are 'cool blocks' and there are 'COOL blocks'.
When I finally got done 'agonizing' over the decision {about which to one to
get}, the 14in JET Open Stand came with Phonolic/Micarta-type blocks. After
putting it together, & 'tuning' it {per Duginske and 'lurking & listening'
here}, I made a few 'tweak's per my engineering background.
One of the 'purchased items was a set of Ceramic Blocks. I tend to use
'wider' blades. On the occasions that I will use blades under 1/4in, or need
to 'copy' a template {and therefore 'bury' the blade} I'll switch back to
the 'softer' ones. Plus probably make some 'wooden' ones from oil-infused
Walnut.
When the 'rear blade support Bearings' go, I will replace them with Ceramic,
as well. Of course, that is for ME and the type of work that predominates.
From what I understand, those 'Side Roller Bearings' {Carter, etc}, are more
for the support of finer {1/4in and under} blades and tightly curved cuts.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Jimmy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just picked up "The new complete guide to the Band Saw" and I get the
> impression that cool blocks are a better choice than bearings. He ( Mark
> Duginske) invented and pantented them. For all around, general use are the
> cool blocks better? What do you preffer?
>
> Thanks
> Jimmy
>
>
>
>