I have a Dewalt circular saw. It's probably about 10 years old. I'm
working on a design for a panel saw, so I started analyzing my saw more
carefully. The base plate of the saw appears to be warped. If I put
it on a flat surface, one corner is up by about 5/64" (actually about
2.25mm). That seems unacceptably warped to me and probably explains
why the saw doesn't seem to cut that well. Are my standards too high?
Anybody else had a problem like this? I was considering flattening it
on sandpaper like a plane sole, but that seems like an awful lot of
metal to remove. Any other ideas? I have considered trying to bend
it, but it doesn't seem like that will work.
Mark
Wed, Sep 20, 2006, 6:34pm (EDT-3) [email protected] (Mark=A0Wells)
doth puzzedly query:
<snip> Any other ideas? I have considered trying to bend it, but it
doesn't seem like that will work.
Personally if mine bothered me like that I'd bend it. Oops, you
say that doesn't seem like it will work. I'd bend it anyway. Or, if
you set it on a sanding belt I betcha it'd sand flat fast. Or, you
could put on a plywood "shoe" - that would make a flat surface. Or,
just send me your old saw, and you buy a new one.
Next time just sit down, think about what you need, how it can be
done, then do it. Then you probably won't need to ask. It ain't rocket
science.
JOAT
I am not paranoid. I do not "think" people are after me. I "know" damn
well they're after me.
On Tue, 29 May 2018 16:42:18 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>> replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>> I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
>> thread.
>> So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
>> waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
>> break - but not bend. Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
>> to deal
>> with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
>> flat-true
>> before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
>> the
>> basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS. This one, after much manual
>> pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
>> outside
>> of the blade - right where you would expect. So for that, I'm going to
>> risk
>> bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
>> OUT, to
>> essentially STRETCH that thin piece. I expect this to work but I'll
>> also do
>> about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
>> if I
>> need to bring the edge parallel with the blade. If I can't get flat within
>> 1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
>> matter)
>> a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
>> dents into petrified eternity.
>> Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
>> precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
>> Would
>> you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
>> can see
>> with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable. And if it's your
>> tool
>> - that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!! and
>> HELL-NO!!
>>
>
>Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.
I'm sure some of the hacks on this list would figure out a way to
damage even them.
My Dad always said if you take care of your tools they will take care
of you. Abuse them and they WILL kick your ass!!
On Thu, 31 May 2018 10:34:11 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 5/29/2018 7:36 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Tue, 29 May 2018 16:42:18 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>>>> replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>>>> I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
>>>> thread.
>>>> So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
>>>> waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
>>>> break - but not bend. Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
>>>> to deal
>>>> with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
>>>> flat-true
>>>> before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
>>>> the
>>>> basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS. This one, after much manual
>>>> pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
>>>> outside
>>>> of the blade - right where you would expect. So for that, I'm going to
>>>> risk
>>>> bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
>>>> OUT, to
>>>> essentially STRETCH that thin piece. I expect this to work but I'll
>>>> also do
>>>> about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
>>>> if I
>>>> need to bring the edge parallel with the blade. If I can't get flat within
>>>> 1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
>>>> matter)
>>>> a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
>>>> dents into petrified eternity.
>>>> Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
>>>> precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
>>>> Would
>>>> you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
>>>> can see
>>>> with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable. And if it's your
>>>> tool
>>>> - that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!! and
>>>> HELL-NO!!
>>>>
>>>
>>> Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.
>>
>> I'm sure some of the hacks on this list would figure out a way to
>> damage even them.
>>
>> My Dad always said if you take care of your tools they will take care
>> of you. Abuse them and they WILL kick your ass!!
>>
>I'm sure you are right but most free hand circular saws are not built
>for accuracy so much as track saws are.
A properly set up quality hand circular saw will cut perfectly square
if run along a straight edge. The cut will be at right angles to the
surface. That's the only "fault" that can be caused by a bent shoe
edge.
My old milweakee and my old Rockwell - both over 30 years old, will
do that - as will my 55+ year old skill worm drive.
A "track saw" is just a circular saw mounted to a "gantry"
On 5/29/2018 7:36 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Tue, 29 May 2018 16:42:18 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>>> replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>>> I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
>>> thread.
>>> So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
>>> waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
>>> break - but not bend. Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
>>> to deal
>>> with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
>>> flat-true
>>> before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
>>> the
>>> basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS. This one, after much manual
>>> pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
>>> outside
>>> of the blade - right where you would expect. So for that, I'm going to
>>> risk
>>> bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
>>> OUT, to
>>> essentially STRETCH that thin piece. I expect this to work but I'll
>>> also do
>>> about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
>>> if I
>>> need to bring the edge parallel with the blade. If I can't get flat within
>>> 1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
>>> matter)
>>> a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
>>> dents into petrified eternity.
>>> Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
>>> precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
>>> Would
>>> you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
>>> can see
>>> with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable. And if it's your
>>> tool
>>> - that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!! and
>>> HELL-NO!!
>>>
>>
>> Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.
>
> I'm sure some of the hacks on this list would figure out a way to
> damage even them.
>
> My Dad always said if you take care of your tools they will take care
> of you. Abuse them and they WILL kick your ass!!
>
I'm sure you are right but most free hand circular saws are not built
for accuracy so much as track saws are.
replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long thread.
So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
break - but not bend. Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying to deal
with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for flat-true
before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was the
basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS. This one, after much manual
pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the outside
of the blade - right where you would expect. So for that, I'm going to risk
bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop, OUT, to
essentially STRETCH that thin piece. I expect this to work but I'll also do
about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on - if I
need to bring the edge parallel with the blade. If I can't get flat within
1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't matter)
a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
dents into petrified eternity.
Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts. Would
you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you can see
with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable. And if it's your tool
- that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!! and
HELL-NO!!
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/circular-saw-base-not-flat-standards-too-high-336887-.htm
replying to Xgenei Lithson, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
I concluded that for a flat aluminum plate, without curled edges - that's a
design flaw plain and simple. I don't care if it is Milwalkee - the majority
upscale are going for the reinforced waffle design, and at a minimum buy a saw
that has both edges shaped with a nice round bend to 90-degrees. Anyway - I
have a good cheat that doesn't involve much guesswork, time, money, or labor.
Comparing the shoe-leather soft aluminum baseplate to a same-thickness 1/2"
wide piece of steel - you literally can't bend the steel. Easily 6 to 1.
This is the black weldable steel they sell in the big box hardware store bins.
Just cut and glue to the TOP of the base plate - probably with the two-part
putty, but maybe slow-cure J.B. Weld. Prep, clamp, cure. Nothing fancy - will
do the job guarantee it.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/circular-saw-base-not-flat-standards-too-high-336887-.htm
replying to Xgenei Lithson, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
One more thing - if your saw has wimpy wimpy pivots / tabs / rivets holding
the baseplate to the motor assembly? If you can bend those things? You're
f'd 6 ways. That is a dangerous saw - won't cut straight - binds .. replace it
ASAP. Get Beefy Beefy and lift weights.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/circular-saw-base-not-flat-standards-too-high-336887-.htm
On Tue, 29 May 2018 00:14:02 GMT, Xgenei Lithson
<[email protected]> wrote:
>replying to Xgenei Lithson, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>I concluded that for a flat aluminum plate, without curled edges - that's a
>design flaw plain and simple. I don't care if it is Milwalkee - the majority
>upscale are going for the reinforced waffle design, and at a minimum buy a saw
>that has both edges shaped with a nice round bend to 90-degrees. Anyway - I
>have a good cheat that doesn't involve much guesswork, time, money, or labor.
>Comparing the shoe-leather soft aluminum baseplate to a same-thickness 1/2"
>wide piece of steel - you literally can't bend the steel. Easily 6 to 1.
>This is the black weldable steel they sell in the big box hardware store bins.
>Just cut and glue to the TOP of the base plate - probably with the two-part
>putty, but maybe slow-cure J.B. Weld. Prep, clamp, cure. Nothing fancy - will
>do the job guarantee it.
6061T6 aluminum is just as stiff and half the weight.
Get a hunk of 1/8" thick angle and rivet it on or screw it on with
flush rivets or bolts. (countersunk)
A much more "sure bet" than epoxy or JB Weld - even if you use steel -
or flat aluminum bar stock.
On Tue, 29 May 2018 12:14:03 GMT, Xgenei Lithson
<[email protected]> wrote:
>replying to Clare Snyder, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>Well, Ms. Snyder -
>Okay - but that "half" is 6 oz. total. AND - really - you want the flat - not
>the angle piece. AND - Steel is way way stronger - I think it's 3x best grade
>alum.
>Regarde'
Do you want steel and aluminum together?
I don't.
On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 at 2:56:44 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Tue, 29 May 2018 12:14:03 GMT, Xgenei Lithson
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >replying to Clare Snyder, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
> >Well, Ms. Snyder -
> >Okay - but that "half" is 6 oz. total. AND - really - you want the flat - not
> >the angle piece. AND - Steel is way way stronger - I think it's 3x best grade
> >alum.
> >Regarde'
> Do you want steel and aluminum together?
> I don't.
Use double sided tape. ;-)
replying to Clare Snyder, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
Well, Ms. Snyder -
Okay - but that "half" is 6 oz. total. AND - really - you want the flat - not
the angle piece. AND - Steel is way way stronger - I think it's 3x best grade
alum.
Regarde'
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/circular-saw-base-not-flat-standards-too-high-336887-.htm
On 5/31/2018 5:22 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Thu, 31 May 2018 10:34:11 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 5/29/2018 7:36 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>> On Tue, 29 May 2018 16:42:18 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>>>>> replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>>>>> I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
>>>>> thread.
>>>>> So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
>>>>> waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
>>>>> break - but not bend. Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
>>>>> to deal
>>>>> with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
>>>>> flat-true
>>>>> before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
>>>>> the
>>>>> basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS. This one, after much manual
>>>>> pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
>>>>> outside
>>>>> of the blade - right where you would expect. So for that, I'm going to
>>>>> risk
>>>>> bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
>>>>> OUT, to
>>>>> essentially STRETCH that thin piece. I expect this to work but I'll
>>>>> also do
>>>>> about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
>>>>> if I
>>>>> need to bring the edge parallel with the blade. If I can't get flat within
>>>>> 1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
>>>>> matter)
>>>>> a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
>>>>> dents into petrified eternity.
>>>>> Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
>>>>> precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
>>>>> Would
>>>>> you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
>>>>> can see
>>>>> with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable. And if it's your
>>>>> tool
>>>>> - that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!! and
>>>>> HELL-NO!!
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.
>>>
>>> I'm sure some of the hacks on this list would figure out a way to
>>> damage even them.
>>>
>>> My Dad always said if you take care of your tools they will take care
>>> of you. Abuse them and they WILL kick your ass!!
>>>
>> I'm sure you are right but most free hand circular saws are not built
>> for accuracy so much as track saws are.
>
>
> A properly set up quality hand circular saw will cut perfectly square
> if run along a straight edge. The cut will be at right angles to the
> surface. That's the only "fault" that can be caused by a bent shoe
> edge.
>
> My old milweakee and my old Rockwell - both over 30 years old, will
> do that - as will my 55+ year old skill worm drive.
>
> A "track saw" is just a circular saw mounted to a "gantry"
>
Well in theory, but most track saws are better built with more
adjustments for accuracy than the old reliable non track saws.
Basically the Festool track saw will rival the cuts on most any cabinet
saw with a top notch blade. There are adjustments on the track saw
bases to correct tracking if necessary. Think, is the blade running
parallel to the guide so that tooth marks are not visible? Regular
circular saws do not offer that as they were never designed to be guided
by a track, although they can be.
Now with that said, the track saws are easy to adjust to make great
cuts. You mention a properly set up quality circular saw will cut well
too. No doubt but I do not recall adjustments on those saws to insure
that the blade is running parallel to the edge of the base/shoe.
On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
> replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
> I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
> thread.
> So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
> waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
> break - but not bend. Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
> to deal
> with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
> flat-true
> before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
> the
> basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS. This one, after much manual
> pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
> outside
> of the blade - right where you would expect. So for that, I'm going to
> risk
> bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
> OUT, to
> essentially STRETCH that thin piece. I expect this to work but I'll
> also do
> about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
> if I
> need to bring the edge parallel with the blade. If I can't get flat within
> 1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
> matter)
> a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
> dents into petrified eternity.
> Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
> precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
> Would
> you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
> can see
> with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable. And if it's your
> tool
> - that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!! and
> HELL-NO!!
>
Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.
On Thu, 31 May 2018 18:23:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 5/31/2018 5:22 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Thu, 31 May 2018 10:34:11 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 5/29/2018 7:36 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>>> On Tue, 29 May 2018 16:42:18 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 5/27/2018 9:14 AM, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>>>>>> replying to J T, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
>>>>>> I'm going to put my solutions here because otherwise it's a long, long
>>>>>> thread.
>>>>>> So if you're lucky enough to have a magnesium bottom plate with the deep
>>>>>> waffle x-pattern - you won't have a problem with that being flat. It will
>>>>>> break - but not bend. Even thick aluminum will deform - so I'm trying
>>>>>> to deal
>>>>>> with my MILWALKEE TILT-LOK Right-hander that I forgot to check for
>>>>>> flat-true
>>>>>> before I laid down $50 for it from a craftsman. Sigh - my one before was
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> basic HF unit and it was downright DANGEROUS. This one, after much manual
>>>>>> pushing, is about 1/32 out of flat - just along the thin rail on the
>>>>>> outside
>>>>>> of the blade - right where you would expect. So for that, I'm going to
>>>>>> risk
>>>>>> bending the front or back tab - whichever looks tweaked from a drop,
>>>>>> OUT, to
>>>>>> essentially STRETCH that thin piece. I expect this to work but I'll
>>>>>> also do
>>>>>> about the same thing - bend those nice thick tabs holding the plate on -
>>>>>> if I
>>>>>> need to bring the edge parallel with the blade. If I can't get flat within
>>>>>> 1/64th - I will cut and "adhese" (maybe with sheet or spray - doesn't
>>>>>> matter)
>>>>>> a new plate that I will have to machine to fit. I will fill any curves or
>>>>>> dents into petrified eternity.
>>>>>> Point is, fellow wannabe craftsmen and women - accepting this much lack of
>>>>>> precision in any tool is just suicidal to all the rest of your efforts.
>>>>>> Would
>>>>>> you tolerate a ruler / tape measure being 1/8" off? Anything that you
>>>>>> can see
>>>>>> with your eye - assuming a good eye - is unacceptable. And if it's your
>>>>>> tool
>>>>>> - that error is going to imprint itself in every single cut. So NO!! and
>>>>>> HELL-NO!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Look at any brand track saw. Their bases are designed to be and stay flat.
>>>>
>>>> I'm sure some of the hacks on this list would figure out a way to
>>>> damage even them.
>>>>
>>>> My Dad always said if you take care of your tools they will take care
>>>> of you. Abuse them and they WILL kick your ass!!
>>>>
>>> I'm sure you are right but most free hand circular saws are not built
>>> for accuracy so much as track saws are.
>>
>>
>> A properly set up quality hand circular saw will cut perfectly square
>> if run along a straight edge. The cut will be at right angles to the
>> surface. That's the only "fault" that can be caused by a bent shoe
>> edge.
>>
>> My old milweakee and my old Rockwell - both over 30 years old, will
>> do that - as will my 55+ year old skill worm drive.
>>
>> A "track saw" is just a circular saw mounted to a "gantry"
>>
>
>Well in theory, but most track saws are better built with more
>adjustments for accuracy than the old reliable non track saws.
>Basically the Festool track saw will rival the cuts on most any cabinet
>saw with a top notch blade. There are adjustments on the track saw
>bases to correct tracking if necessary. Think, is the blade running
>parallel to the guide so that tooth marks are not visible? Regular
>circular saws do not offer that as they were never designed to be guided
>by a track, although they can be.
>
>Now with that said, the track saws are easy to adjust to make great
>cuts. You mention a properly set up quality circular saw will cut well
>too. No doubt but I do not recall adjustments on those saws to insure
>that the blade is running parallel to the edge of the base/shoe.
A "quality" saw has the base/shoe registered to the saw with
precision located countersunk screws - it is straight from the
factory. With cast parts, unless it is badly beaten on, it will STAY
square.
An adjustable saw is more likely to be out of square than a good
non-adjustable one because some hack is liable to be screwing around
with the adjustment when it is not required.
replying to Clare Snyder, Xgenei Lithson wrote:
Actually, I don't mind mixed marriages as long as there's a good bond. :)
Point though that I don't give a pile of rat droppings if a clueless wonder
can't figure out his cupcake baking machine and keeps turnout out biscuits ..
but these machines can severely impact lives and proper instructions for
close-to-perfect setup are basic-basic real-dude/tte training. Right-right?
And junky pretzel saws have no proper niche. But -- more and better
information is the only defense - so very happy this 'board' has convened to
make it avail.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/circular-saw-base-not-flat-standards-too-high-336887-.htm
Mark Wells wrote:
> I have a Dewalt circular saw. It's probably about 10 years old. I'm
> working on a design for a panel saw, so I started analyzing my saw more
> carefully. The base plate of the saw appears to be warped. If I put
> it on a flat surface, one corner is up by about 5/64" (actually about
> 2.25mm). That seems unacceptably warped to me and probably explains
> why the saw doesn't seem to cut that well. Are my standards too high?
Not to me. That would drive me nuts.
> Anybody else had a problem like this? I was considering flattening it
> on sandpaper like a plane sole, but that seems like an awful lot of
> metal to remove.
It is, and if it's magnesium, I don't know anything about sanding it.
> Any other ideas? I have considered trying to bend
> it, but it doesn't seem like that will work.
Supposedly, you "can't" bend a footplate like that one. The cheap
stamped ones, yes.
It seems to me that a lot, if not most, of the price difference between
circ saws is in the base plates. I don't think it's an exaggeration to
say a lot of the money in a high-end circ saw is the base plate. I'm
kinda thinking you may be headed for a new saw.
J T wrote:
> Wed, Sep 20, 2006, 6:34pm (EDT-3) [email protected] (Mark Wells)
> doth puzzedly query:
> Next time just sit down, think about what you need, how it can be
> done, then do it. Then you probably won't need to ask. It ain't rocket
> science.
Hey, I resemble that remark! ;-) Isn't half the fun analyzing
everything? It is for me.
Mark
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Thu, Sep 21, 2006, 7:28am (EDT-3) [email protected] (Mark Wells)
doth sayeth:
Hey, I resemble that remark! ;-) Isn't half the fun analyzing
everything? It is for me.
Well analyzing is a significant part of the enjoyment for me,
regarding my projects anyway. Doesn't sound like you did much analyzing
this time, but I trust you enjoyed it. Another part of my enjoyment is
working out a solution to my problem, my way, without asking anyone
else, once I did the analyzing. Sounds like you just skpped that part
entirely.
-------------------------
If you're not spamming the group you are being a jerk...
still haven't figured out which side I like better.
Thu, Sep 21, 2006, 4:39pm [email protected] (Locutus) doth
proclaimeth:
If you're not spamming the group <snip>
Well, if you consider free plans spam, and don't like my posts, you
are totally welcome to put me in your kill file, or skip over them
totally. I suppose this means you will never use any of the plans I
post. No prob.
JOAT
I am not paranoid. I do not "think" people are after me. I "know" damn
well they're after me.
Thu, Sep 21, 2006, 7:28am (EDT-3) [email protected] (Mark=A0Wells)
doth sayeth:
Hey, I resemble that remark! ;-) Isn't half the fun analyzing
everything? It is for me.
Well analyzing is a significant part of the enjoyment for me,
regarding my projects anyway. Doesn't sound like you did much analyzing
this time, but I trust you enjoyed it. Another part of my enjoyment is
working out a solution to my problem, my way, without asking anyone
else, once I did the analyzing. Sounds like you just skpped that part
entirely.
JOAT
I am not paranoid. I do not "think" people are after me. I "know" damn
well they're after me.
On Thu, 21 Sep 2006 15:08:51 -0400, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
>Thu, Sep 21, 2006, 7:28am (EDT-3) [email protected] (Mark Wells)
>doth sayeth:
>Hey, I resemble that remark! ;-) Isn't half the fun analyzing
>everything? It is for me.
>
> Well analyzing is a significant part of the enjoyment for me,
>regarding my projects anyway. Doesn't sound like you did much analyzing
>this time, but I trust you enjoyed it. Another part of my enjoyment is
>working out a solution to my problem, my way, without asking anyone
>else, once I did the analyzing.
Not that I am following closely, but didn't you just recently ask the
group how to attach a topper to a truck/car (I forget the name of
those things but I think Clinton had one with astroturf in the back).
I also realize you figured out how you are going to do it, but you did
ask.
Dave Hall
Sounds like you just skpped that part
>entirely.
>
>
>
>JOAT
>I am not paranoid. I do not "think" people are after me. I "know" damn
>well they're after me.
Thu, Sep 21, 2006, 5:28pm [email protected] (Dave=A0Hall) doth query:
<snip> didn't you just recently ask the group how to attach a topper to
a truck/car (I forget the name of those things but I think Clinton had
one with astroturf in the back). I also realize you figured out how you
are going to do it, but you did ask.
Jeeze, don't compre me to Clinton in any way, shape, or form.
True, I did. I said I was not familar with that particular type,
for an El Camino, and hadn't been able to find zip about it on google.
Hadn't looked at it at that time, and didn't realize it would involve
drilling holes. Only after I looked it over did I see how it was to be
done. In fact I just picked up new weatherstripping and hardware to
get it on, today at Ace.
JOAT
I am not paranoid. I do not "think" people are after me. I "know" damn
well they're after me.
boorite wrote:
> Supposedly, you "can't" bend a footplate like that one. The cheap
> stamped ones, yes.
>
> It seems to me that a lot, if not most, of the price difference between
> circ saws is in the base plates. I don't think it's an exaggeration to
> say a lot of the money in a high-end circ saw is the base plate. I'm
> kinda thinking you may be headed for a new saw.
Given all the advice, I left my computer, went out to the shop, put the
base in the vise and twisted it. Sure enough, it was easy to bend.
Now it's not perfectly flat, but it is much closer.
I would think that a Dewalt saw would be toward the upper end in terms
of quality. Is this a problem with all circular saws? Makita, Dewalt,
Milwaukee all seem roughly in the same price range (except Festool, of
course) to me.
Okay, okay. I'll stop analyzing and get to work.
Mark
Thu, Sep 21, 2006, 7:35am (EDT-3) [email protected] (Mark=A0Wells)
now mumbleth:
I would think that a Dewalt saw would be toward the upper end in terms
of quality. Is this a problem with all circular saws? Makita, Dewalt,
Milwaukee all seem roughly in the same price range (except Festool, of
course) to me.
Okay, okay. I'll stop analyzing and get to work.
A problem with all circular saws? I don't think so Tim, oops Mark,
it sounds more like a user problem not quality Offhand I don't recall
hearing of this problem before. I've got a small B&D circular saw I got
in about 1981-82, that I still use, that has had some very rough use at
times - nothing bent on it.
You sure you know what "analyzing" means?
JOAT
I am not paranoid. I do not "think" people are after me. I "know" damn
well they're after me.
Mark Wells wrote:
> ...
> Given all the advice, I left my computer, went out to the shop, put the
> base in the vise and twisted it. Sure enough, it was easy to bend.
> Now it's not perfectly flat, but it is much closer.
>
> I would think that a Dewalt saw would be toward the upper end in terms
> of quality. Is this a problem with all circular saws? Makita, Dewalt,
> Milwaukee all seem roughly in the same price range (except Festool, of
> course) to me.
>
Uh, if it is that easy to bend, do you suppose it may have left
the factory flat and was bent later? Didn't you say it was like
10 years old?
--
FF
"Mark Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a Dewalt circular saw. It's probably about 10 years old. I'm
> working on a design for a panel saw, so I started analyzing my saw more
> carefully. The base plate of the saw appears to be warped. If I put
> it on a flat surface, one corner is up by about 5/64" (actually about
> 2.25mm). That seems unacceptably warped to me and probably explains
> why the saw doesn't seem to cut that well. Are my standards too high?
> Anybody else had a problem like this? I was considering flattening it
> on sandpaper like a plane sole, but that seems like an awful lot of
> metal to remove. Any other ideas? I have considered trying to bend
> it, but it doesn't seem like that will work.
>
> Mark
>
Mark,
Don't panic - its only a Dewalt. The sole plate is the least of your
worries. The real problem is the mounting for the plate, they are inherently
week. If I was building another (built one - sold it) panel saw, I would
not use the factory sole plate at all. I would build a new sole plate,
mounted to the saw permanently. With only enough movement to allow for
changing the blade and for accurate setting up of the blade angle to 90.
and it should have a replaceable zero clearance insert.
I sold my home-made panel saw to a local cabinet shop. They used it for
several years and now have closed down.
Dave
Teamcasa wrote:
> I would build a new sole plate,
> mounted to the saw permanently. With only enough movement to allow for
> changing the blade and for accurate setting up of the blade angle to 90.
> and it should have a replaceable zero clearance insert.
I did notice that the attachment to the plate seemed weak, as well.
Permanently mounting the saw is a great idea! I don't even need the
depth adjustment when it is in the panel saw, so I can make the whole
fixture very solid.
Mark
Mark Wells wrote:
> Given all the advice, I left my computer, went out to the shop, put the
> base in the vise and twisted it. Sure enough, it was easy to bend.
> Now it's not perfectly flat, but it is much closer.
Yeah, that's why I said "supposedly" and put "can't" in quotes. :-) I
swear I just read an article in FWW or PWW that said you *can't*
straighten that kind of footplate by bending. Which invites the
question of how it got bent in the first place.
But I think what they meant was that bending is no way to restore the
base plate to true. I have a feeling they're right. It's just my
impression that a saw with a cast base plate that's out of whack is a
lost cause.
> I would think that a Dewalt saw would be toward the upper end in terms
> of quality. Is this a problem with all circular saws?
It's definitely an issue on all models of circular saw. P-C, Milwaukee,
etc. are more likely than Skil or B&D to come out of the box with a
flat plate and to stay that way, but you can still get boned with a
crooked one.
What frustrates me is when the stupid thing is riveted onto the saw,
preventing any real tuning. I have an upper-bottom-end Skil Classic
that would be great, except the base is ever so slightly out of
parallel with the blade, and there's no way to adjust it. It's still
OK, but I'd pay $5 or $10 extra if it was put together more flexibly.
[email protected] wrote:
> boorite wrote:
>
> > It is, and if it's magnesium, I don't know anything about sanding it.
>
> Dead easy to sand, but remember to passivate it afterwards or you'll
> get corrosion problems.
See? I don't even know what that means. :-)
"Mark Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Teamcasa wrote:
>> I would build a new sole plate,
>> mounted to the saw permanently. With only enough movement to allow for
>> changing the blade and for accurate setting up of the blade angle to 90.
>> and it should have a replaceable zero clearance insert.
>
> I did notice that the attachment to the plate seemed weak, as well.
>
> Permanently mounting the saw is a great idea! I don't even need the
> depth adjustment when it is in the panel saw, so I can make the whole
> fixture very solid.
>
> Mark
>
You're welcome.
Dave
>
"boorite" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> What frustrates me is when the stupid thing is riveted onto the saw,
> preventing any real tuning. I have an upper-bottom-end Skil Classic
> that would be great, except the base is ever so slightly out of
> parallel with the blade, and there's no way to adjust it. It's still
> OK, but I'd pay $5 or $10 extra if it was put together more flexibly.
>
You can drill out the rivets and put new ones in....
If I'm going to the trouble of building a full blown
panel saw and one of the key items is the saw, I
believe I would look into a higher quality saw.
A warped or distorted base will defeat the entire
project.
Mark Wells wrote:
> I have a Dewalt circular saw. It's probably about 10 years old. I'm
> working on a design for a panel saw, so I started analyzing my saw more
> carefully. The base plate of the saw appears to be warped. If I put
> it on a flat surface, one corner is up by about 5/64" (actually about
> 2.25mm). That seems unacceptably warped to me and probably explains
> why the saw doesn't seem to cut that well. Are my standards too high?
> Anybody else had a problem like this? I was considering flattening it
> on sandpaper like a plane sole, but that seems like an awful lot of
> metal to remove. Any other ideas? I have considered trying to bend
> it, but it doesn't seem like that will work.
>
> Mark
>
Can't saw that the plate on my Milwaukee is flat but can't say it isn't
either. Never checked but it doesn't rock when I use it.
"Mark Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> boorite wrote:
> > Supposedly, you "can't" bend a footplate like that one. The cheap
> > stamped ones, yes.
> >
> > It seems to me that a lot, if not most, of the price difference between
> > circ saws is in the base plates. I don't think it's an exaggeration to
> > say a lot of the money in a high-end circ saw is the base plate. I'm
> > kinda thinking you may be headed for a new saw.
>
> Given all the advice, I left my computer, went out to the shop, put the
> base in the vise and twisted it. Sure enough, it was easy to bend.
> Now it's not perfectly flat, but it is much closer.
>
> I would think that a Dewalt saw would be toward the upper end in terms
> of quality. Is this a problem with all circular saws? Makita, Dewalt,
> Milwaukee all seem roughly in the same price range (except Festool, of
> course) to me.
>
> Okay, okay. I'll stop analyzing and get to work.
>
> Mark
>
On 20 Sep 2006 18:34:23 -0700, "Mark Wells" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>why the saw doesn't seem to cut that well. Are my standards too high?
>Anybody else had a problem like this? I was considering flattening it
>on sandpaper like a plane sole, but that seems like an awful lot of
>metal to remove. Any other ideas? I have considered trying to bend
>it, but it doesn't seem like that will work.
Just bend it back. I think you'll be surprised how easy it is.
Mike O.