jtpr wrote:
> I have a Delta DC with a 4" intake. I see pictures of shops all the
> time with metal ductwork running around the shop for use with similar
> units, but when I look around the local HD I don't find anything that
> seems to match up with the 4" hoses.
>
> What is it I use for this?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
Rockler sells an adapter to change from 4" fitting to PVC Sewer Pipe. See:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=20382&filter=dust%20collection
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
Woodcrafters has duct work and some fittings, but if you are close to a
Woodcrafters store, look up a site The Wood & Shop, Inc. its got 3" and
4" stuff look under dust collection, they are in Maryland Height, Mo
just outside of St Louis...I have been putting a dust collecter on my
radial arm saw, and got a hood and reducter from Woodcrafts and using
some pvc pipe from Lowes to get it hooked up like I want it
On Oct 28, 1:27=A0pm, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a Delta DC with a 4" intake. =A0I see pictures of shops all the
> time with metal ductwork running around the shop for use with similar
> units, but when I look around the local HD I don't find anything that
> seems to match up with the 4" hoses.
>
> What is it I use for this?
Here is a great source for everything dust collection.
http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm
Note his discussion in "PVC Confusion" and several other areas. He
considers PVC a good option if you ground
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:40:18 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I am just waithing for the day I suck up my remote with the end of my hose
>when cleaning up.
And then there was the time I was vacuuming some dust up from inside
my computer case. Sucked a chip right off the motherboard. Made a
bigger mess looking for it than before I started vacuuming.
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:12:09 -0400, FrozenNorth
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> And then there was the time I was vacuuming some dust up from inside
>> my computer case. Sucked a chip right off the motherboard. Made a
>> bigger mess looking for it than before I started vacuuming.
>
>If your vacuum allows, hook up the hose to blow instead of suck.
So I can blow the chips off my motherboard instead of sucking them up?
:)
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote:
>> On Oct 28, 5:53 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> "jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>
>>> news:ac7bc22d-36d9-4838-89c0-352abb6208d0@v30g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>>> I have a Delta DC with a 4" intake. I see pictures of shops all the
>>>> time with metal ductwork running around the shop for use with similar
>>>> units, but when I look around the local HD I don't find anything that
>>>> seems to match up with the 4" hoses.
>>>> What is it I use for this?
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Jim
>>> I finally bit the bullet about 3-4 years ago and bought a canister 1100
>>> CFM
>>> Jet DC. All of my equipment is mobile so I simply use 2, 10' clear
>>> flexable
>>> hoses to make a single 20' hose that reaches most any where in the shop.
>>> I
>>> have no plans to upgrade. For closer equipment the hose hangs from a
>>> hook
>>> at the ceiling near the DC. I take it down if I need to go farther with
>>> it.
>>> I added a quick taper connect to the end for fast connection and
>>> disconnect.
>>> Totally dependable and trouble free. Cost, about $50.
>>
>> I just bought a DC and this is basically what I'm doing now. The
>> problem is that the saw and planer tend to be in the middle of the
>> shop (read: garage) floor so the hose is always in the way. I have
>> the planer on a cart so it gets put away when not in use but the saw
>> more or less sits.
>> I plan on converting the area that is normally the "bonus room" above
>> the garage into a shop. I have to raise the floor another ~8" so I
>> thought I'd run the DC pipes under the floor to the saw. I'll likely
>> still leave the planer on the cart.
>>
>> Other tools tend to stand against the walls so quick disconnects
>> (behind them) would seem to be a problem there, too. I'm just in the
>> planning stage so I'd appreciate hearing from others.
>
> Leon has talked about his dust collection approach before, and I think
> what he's doing is mostly workable and cost-effective. After years of
> dealing with just a shop vac (almost totally inadequate), I bit the bullet
> and went with a big Grizzly cyclone with full ducting (snap-lock) routed
> to all the big machines: table saw, radial-arm saw, planer, jointer, and
> band saw. That too is working great, but I've *not* run ducting to my
> router table, Ridgid belt/spindle sander, or drill press. Those machines
> need *something* because they can create a hell of a mess, but I can't see
> firing up the big cyclone to catch a pee cup's worth of dust. For those
> little guys, I'm still falling back on the shop-vac, which is still
> semi-inadequate, and having to use it just kinda pisses me off :-) I'd
> also like to have a small portable dust collector to replace the shop-vac.
Why not use the DC for the router table? Is it too loud? Mine is right
next to the router table and not really loud. Actually I often leave it
running, but anyway I have hearing protection when I use the router, or
planer.
If you simply don't have a way to reach it, run a temp hose. My hose
literally reaches every thing that needs dust management. Yeah I have to
step over it but it is a small price to pay and it is long enough that I
don't trip, it slides out of the way.
for some reason hearing protection does not seem to work against my " old
shop vac". Don't need it at all with the Festool vac. The finish sander
drowns out the Festool vac.
>
> I kinda see this in the same light as my bandsaw situation; I have a nice
> hefty 16" eye-tal-yun made Minimax cast-iron "tank", but it would also be
> kinda nice to have a smaller 14" light-duty "sports car" so I could keep a
> 3/4" Woodslicer on the tank and a little 1/4" curve-cutter on the sports
> car.
>
> --
> Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
> sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
> To reply, eat the taco.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>
> It *is* loud, but it just seems like overkill to me, kinda like watering
> my lawn with a fire hose, and who knows how much extra electricity it
> chews up! :-) It's a 2HP 220V cyclone with a 7" input port, and it can
> suck the chrome off a trailer hitch. My router table has a little 2" port
> for the cabinet and a 1-1/4" port for the fence. I'm afraid the collector
> is going to suck the router right out of the table!
I see..... I don't think it would actually suck the bit out of the router
UNLESS you have a Craftsman router in there. ;~)
I am just waithing for the day I suck up my remote with the end of my hose
when cleaning up.
On Oct 28, 5:53=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:ac7bc22d-36d9-4838-89c0-352abb6208d0@v30g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
>
> >I have a Delta DC with a 4" intake. =A0I see pictures of shops all the
> > time with metal ductwork running around the shop for use with similar
> > units, but when I look around the local HD I don't find anything that
> > seems to match up with the 4" hoses.
>
> > What is it I use for this?
>
> > Thanks,
> > Jim
>
> I finally bit the bullet about 3-4 years ago and bought a canister 1100 C=
FM
> Jet DC. =A0All of my equipment is mobile so I simply use 2, 10' clear fle=
xable
> hoses to make a single 20' hose that reaches most any where in the shop. =
=A0I
> have no plans to upgrade. =A0For closer equipment the hose hangs from a h=
ook
> at the ceiling near the DC. =A0I take it down if I need to go farther wit=
h it.
> I added a quick taper connect to the end for fast connection and disconne=
ct.
> Totally dependable and trouble free. =A0Cost, about $50.
I just bought a DC and this is basically what I'm doing now. The
problem is that the saw and planer tend to be in the middle of the
shop (read: garage) floor so the hose is always in the way. I have
the planer on a cart so it gets put away when not in use but the saw
more or less sits.
I plan on converting the area that is normally the "bonus room" above
the garage into a shop. I have to raise the floor another ~8" so I
thought I'd run the DC pipes under the floor to the saw. I'll likely
still leave the planer on the cart.
Other tools tend to stand against the walls so quick disconnects
(behind them) would seem to be a problem there, too. I'm just in the
planning stage so I'd appreciate hearing from others.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:40:18 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> I am just waithing for the day I suck up my remote with the end of my hose
>> when cleaning up.
>
> And then there was the time I was vacuuming some dust up from inside
> my computer case. Sucked a chip right off the motherboard. Made a
> bigger mess looking for it than before I started vacuuming.
If your vacuum allows, hook up the hose to blow instead of suck.
No inuendo intended.
;-)
--
Froz...
"jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ac7bc22d-36d9-4838-89c0-352abb6208d0@v30g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
>I have a Delta DC with a 4" intake. I see pictures of shops all the
> time with metal ductwork running around the shop for use with similar
> units, but when I look around the local HD I don't find anything that
> seems to match up with the 4" hoses.
>
> What is it I use for this?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
I finally bit the bullet about 3-4 years ago and bought a canister 1100 CFM
Jet DC. All of my equipment is mobile so I simply use 2, 10' clear flexable
hoses to make a single 20' hose that reaches most any where in the shop. I
have no plans to upgrade. For closer equipment the hose hangs from a hook
at the ceiling near the DC. I take it down if I need to go farther with it.
I added a quick taper connect to the end for fast connection and disconnect.
Totally dependable and trouble free. Cost, about $50.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:40:18 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>I am just waithing for the day I suck up my remote with the end of my hose
>>when cleaning up.
>
> And then there was the time I was vacuuming some dust up from inside
> my computer case. Sucked a chip right off the motherboard. Made a
> bigger mess looking for it than before I started vacuuming.
I'm amazed that it still worked. Thought sure static would have killed it.
jtpr wrote:
> I have a Delta DC with a 4" intake. I see pictures of shops all the
> time with metal ductwork running around the shop for use with similar
> units, but when I look around the local HD I don't find anything that
> seems to match up with the 4" hoses.
>
> What is it I use for this?
Most home shop folks just use plastic any more.
26 ga snap-lock duct is the only (semi-)economical metal choice...
<http://www.pennstateind.com/store/economy-snaplock-pipe.html>
for example. May have better luck at the HVAC supply places than box
stores locally.
--
dpb wrote:
> jtpr wrote:
>> I have a Delta DC with a 4" intake. I see pictures of shops all the
>> time with metal ductwork running around the shop for use with similar
>> units, but when I look around the local HD I don't find anything that
>> seems to match up with the 4" hoses.
>>
>> What is it I use for this?
>
> Most home shop folks just use plastic any more.
>
> 26 ga snap-lock duct is the only (semi-)economical metal choice...
Yes.
> <http://www.pennstateind.com/store/economy-snaplock-pipe.html>
>
> for example. May have better luck at the HVAC supply places than box
> stores locally.
Snap-lock is available at most home centers (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) but most of it's
paper-thin 30-gauge (or ever thinner) junk. You *can* find 26 gauge (28 gauge is probably
ok for smaller diameters or short sections) at Lowe's-Depot, but many times the stuff is
mislabeled; bring your micrometer. I have a half-dozen or more Lowe's and Home Depot stores
within driving distance, and they ALL carried a different variety of brands and gauges,
sometimes within the same store. Incidentally, I *tried* to shop every HVAC place in my
area (and I live in Austin, so there are a lot of them), but I didn't buy anything from
*any* of them; most of them weren't any better than Lowe's or Home Depot in terms of
selection (and price!), and many of them deal with contractors only and don't want to talk
to the man on the street.
I would recommend going first to Kencraft (http://kencraftcompany.com) and try to get as
much as you can from them, then falling back on Penn State for the remainder of your needs.
Every single thing I ordered from Kencraft was of superior quality, and they ship fast.
Penn State has more stuff, but some of it ain't as good, and it took them *much* longer to
ship it than Kencraft.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Steve Turner wrote:
...
> I would recommend going first to Kencraft (http://kencraftcompany.com)
> and try to get as much as you can from them, then falling back on Penn
> State for the remainder of your needs. Every single thing I ordered
> from Kencraft was of superior quality, and they ship fast. Penn State
> has more stuff, but some of it ain't as good, and it took them *much*
> longer to ship it than Kencraft.
Hadn't ever heard of 'em; looks worthwhile link, thanks...
Note their only 4"x60" snap-lock is 30ga whereas Penn State has 26ga,
though. As I read it, their 24" is 26ga and is less expensive depending
on relative shipping.
One of those things owing to that that if can find locally is usually
better deal as the shipping gets amortized over much larger quantities
than individual orders.
There's always Oneida for the "high-priced spread", of course... :)
I've not checked at Woodworkers' Supply recently...well, that
said--whoah, Nelly!!! They're about double... :( Generally, their
pricing is pretty good, but not on this.
--
dpb wrote:
> I've not checked at Woodworkers' Supply recently...well, that
> said--whoah, Nelly!!! They're about double... :( Generally, their
> pricing is pretty good, but not on this.
Yes, I was disappointed when I investigated Wooodworker's Supply. And there was a time when
I too thought that their pricing was "pretty good" in general, but most of my recent
perusals through their catalogs have led me to conclude otherwise. In general. :-(
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Len wrote:
> Why would you go to home depot for this?
>
Because a lot of the time, woodworking stores sell the same thing for
more.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Len wrote:
> I have never seen Home depot (or lowes for that matter)sell anything
> for less than scarrie.
That's nice but Baltimore is a bit of a drive for most of us.
> the name brands have two types of products one
> for home and the other for the pro,both are the same on the outside
> but very different on the inside.
I am curious--what is "very different on the inside" of a piece of bent up
sheet metal?
J. Clarke wrote:
> Len wrote:
>> I have never seen Home depot (or lowes for that matter)sell anything
>> for less than scarrie.
>
> That's nice but Baltimore is a bit of a drive for most of us.
>
>> the name brands have two types of products one
>> for home and the other for the pro,both are the same on the outside
>> but very different on the inside.
>
> I am curious--what is "very different on the inside" of a piece of bent up
> sheet metal?
The much larger hole inside the 30-ga vis a vis 26, maybe??? :J)
--
[email protected] wrote:
> On Oct 28, 5:53 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:ac7bc22d-36d9-4838-89c0-352abb6208d0@v30g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>> I have a Delta DC with a 4" intake. I see pictures of shops all the
>>> time with metal ductwork running around the shop for use with similar
>>> units, but when I look around the local HD I don't find anything that
>>> seems to match up with the 4" hoses.
>>> What is it I use for this?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Jim
>> I finally bit the bullet about 3-4 years ago and bought a canister 1100 CFM
>> Jet DC. All of my equipment is mobile so I simply use 2, 10' clear flexable
>> hoses to make a single 20' hose that reaches most any where in the shop. I
>> have no plans to upgrade. For closer equipment the hose hangs from a hook
>> at the ceiling near the DC. I take it down if I need to go farther with it.
>> I added a quick taper connect to the end for fast connection and disconnect.
>> Totally dependable and trouble free. Cost, about $50.
>
> I just bought a DC and this is basically what I'm doing now. The
> problem is that the saw and planer tend to be in the middle of the
> shop (read: garage) floor so the hose is always in the way. I have
> the planer on a cart so it gets put away when not in use but the saw
> more or less sits.
> I plan on converting the area that is normally the "bonus room" above
> the garage into a shop. I have to raise the floor another ~8" so I
> thought I'd run the DC pipes under the floor to the saw. I'll likely
> still leave the planer on the cart.
>
> Other tools tend to stand against the walls so quick disconnects
> (behind them) would seem to be a problem there, too. I'm just in the
> planning stage so I'd appreciate hearing from others.
Leon has talked about his dust collection approach before, and I think what he's doing is
mostly workable and cost-effective. After years of dealing with just a shop vac (almost
totally inadequate), I bit the bullet and went with a big Grizzly cyclone with full ducting
(snap-lock) routed to all the big machines: table saw, radial-arm saw, planer, jointer, and
band saw. That too is working great, but I've *not* run ducting to my router table, Ridgid
belt/spindle sander, or drill press. Those machines need *something* because they can
create a hell of a mess, but I can't see firing up the big cyclone to catch a pee cup's
worth of dust. For those little guys, I'm still falling back on the shop-vac, which is
still semi-inadequate, and having to use it just kinda pisses me off :-) I'd also like to
have a small portable dust collector to replace the shop-vac.
I kinda see this in the same light as my bandsaw situation; I have a nice hefty 16"
eye-tal-yun made Minimax cast-iron "tank", but it would also be kinda nice to have a smaller
14" light-duty "sports car" so I could keep a 3/4" Woodslicer on the tank and a little 1/4"
curve-cutter on the sports car.
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
[email protected] wrote:
> On Oct 28, 5:53 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "jtpr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:ac7bc22d-36d9-4838-89c0-352abb6208d0@v30g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>> I have a Delta DC with a 4" intake. I see pictures of shops all the
>>> time with metal ductwork running around the shop for use with similar
>>> units, but when I look around the local HD I don't find anything that
>>> seems to match up with the 4" hoses.
>>> What is it I use for this?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Jim
>> I finally bit the bullet about 3-4 years ago and bought a canister 1100 CFM
>> Jet DC. All of my equipment is mobile so I simply use 2, 10' clear flexable
>> hoses to make a single 20' hose that reaches most any where in the shop. I
>> have no plans to upgrade. For closer equipment the hose hangs from a hook
>> at the ceiling near the DC. I take it down if I need to go farther with it.
>> I added a quick taper connect to the end for fast connection and disconnect.
>> Totally dependable and trouble free. Cost, about $50.
>
> I just bought a DC and this is basically what I'm doing now. The
> problem is that the saw and planer tend to be in the middle of the
> shop (read: garage) floor so the hose is always in the way. I have
> the planer on a cart so it gets put away when not in use but the saw
> more or less sits.
> I plan on converting the area that is normally the "bonus room" above
> the garage into a shop. I have to raise the floor another ~8" so I
> thought I'd run the DC pipes under the floor to the saw. I'll likely
> still leave the planer on the cart.
>
> Other tools tend to stand against the walls so quick disconnects
> (behind them) would seem to be a problem there, too. I'm just in the
> planning stage so I'd appreciate hearing from others.
Leon has talked about his dust collection approach before, and I think what he's doing is
mostly workable and cost-effective. After years of dealing with just a shop vac (almost
totally inadequate), I bit the bullet and went with a big Grizzly cyclone with full ducting
(snap-lock) routed to all the big machines: table saw, radial-arm saw, planer, jointer, and
band saw. That too is working great, but I've *not* run ducting to my router table, Ridgid
belt/spindle sander, or drill press. Those machines need *something* because they can
create a hell of a mess, but I can't see firing up the big cyclone to catch a pee cup's
worth of dust. For those little guys, I'm still falling back on the shop-vac, which is
still semi-inadequate, and having to use it just kinda pisses me off :-) I'd also like to
have a small portable dust collector to replace the shop-vac.
I kinda see this in the same light as my bandsaw situation; I have a nice hefty 16"
eye-tal-yun made Minimax cast-iron "tank", but it would also be kinda nice to have a smaller
14" light-duty "sports car" so I could keep a 3/4" Woodslicer on the tank and a little 1/4"
curve-cutter on the sports car.
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Steve Turner wrote:
> I kinda see this in the same light as my bandsaw situation; I have a
> nice hefty 16" eye-tal-yun made Minimax cast-iron "tank", but it would
> also be kinda nice to have a smaller 14" light-duty "sports car" so I
> could keep a 3/4" Woodslicer on the tank and a little 1/4" curve-cutter
> on the sports car.
>
I hear ya. Even though it was a complete POS, sometimes I wish I'd kept
that little 9 incher with a metal blade on it.
I've done as many mods as I can to make blade changing simpler/faster on
my Jet 14, but any amount of time seems "too long" when you're really
rolling and the inspiration has struck you.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Leon has talked about his dust collection approach before, and I think
>> what he's doing is mostly workable and cost-effective. After years of
>> dealing with just a shop vac (almost totally inadequate), I bit the bullet
>> and went with a big Grizzly cyclone with full ducting (snap-lock) routed
>> to all the big machines: table saw, radial-arm saw, planer, jointer, and
>> band saw. That too is working great, but I've *not* run ducting to my
>> router table, Ridgid belt/spindle sander, or drill press. Those machines
>> need *something* because they can create a hell of a mess, but I can't see
>> firing up the big cyclone to catch a pee cup's worth of dust. For those
>> little guys, I'm still falling back on the shop-vac, which is still
>> semi-inadequate, and having to use it just kinda pisses me off :-) I'd
>> also like to have a small portable dust collector to replace the shop-vac.
>
> Why not use the DC for the router table? Is it too loud? Mine is right
> next to the router table and not really loud. Actually I often leave it
> running, but anyway I have hearing protection when I use the router, or
> planer.
It *is* loud, but it just seems like overkill to me, kinda like watering my lawn with a fire
hose, and who knows how much extra electricity it chews up! :-) It's a 2HP 220V cyclone
with a 7" input port, and it can suck the chrome off a trailer hitch. My router table has a
little 2" port for the cabinet and a 1-1/4" port for the fence. I'm afraid the collector is
going to suck the router right out of the table!
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Doug Winterburn wrote:
> Steve Turner wrote:
>> It *is* loud, but it just seems like overkill to me, kinda like
>> watering my lawn with a fire hose, and who knows how much extra
>> electricity it chews up! :-) It's a 2HP 220V cyclone with a 7" input
>> port, and it can suck the chrome off a trailer hitch. My router table
>> has a little 2" port for the cabinet and a 1-1/4" port for the fence.
>> I'm afraid the collector is going to suck the router right out of the
>> table!
>>
>
> Make a manifold box so you can run the smaller hoses out of it, and if
> needed (partially) open one or more of the smaller ports.
>
> - Doug
Well, I *was* be a little over-dramatic about the suckage. I usually just open a blast gate
somewhere else to keep the collector from trying to suck a bowling ball through a straw hose.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:40:18 -0500, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> It *is* loud, but it just seems like overkill to me, kinda like watering
>> my lawn with a fire hose, and who knows how much extra electricity it
>> chews up! :-) It's a 2HP 220V cyclone with a 7" input port, and it can
>> suck the chrome off a trailer hitch. My router table has a little 2" port
>> for the cabinet and a 1-1/4" port for the fence. I'm afraid the collector
>> is going to suck the router right out of the table!
>
>
>I see..... I don't think it would actually suck the bit out of the router
>UNLESS you have a Craftsman router in there. ;~)
Nah, Crapsman routers suck more than that.
>I am just waithing for the day I suck up my remote with the end of my hose
>when cleaning up.
I've been wondering the same thing. I tied one to the end of the
fence rail and put the other away in the closet. ;-)
Steve Turner wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> Leon has talked about his dust collection approach before, and I
>>> think what he's doing is mostly workable and cost-effective. After
>>> years of dealing with just a shop vac (almost totally inadequate), I
>>> bit the bullet and went with a big Grizzly cyclone with full ducting
>>> (snap-lock) routed to all the big machines: table saw, radial-arm
>>> saw, planer, jointer, and band saw. That too is working great, but
>>> I've *not* run ducting to my router table, Ridgid belt/spindle
>>> sander, or drill press. Those machines need *something* because they
>>> can create a hell of a mess, but I can't see firing up the big
>>> cyclone to catch a pee cup's worth of dust. For those little guys,
>>> I'm still falling back on the shop-vac, which is still
>>> semi-inadequate, and having to use it just kinda pisses me off :-)
>>> I'd also like to have a small portable dust collector to replace the
>>> shop-vac.
>>
>> Why not use the DC for the router table? Is it too loud? Mine is
>> right next to the router table and not really loud. Actually I often
>> leave it running, but anyway I have hearing protection when I use the
>> router, or planer.
>
> It *is* loud, but it just seems like overkill to me, kinda like watering
> my lawn with a fire hose, and who knows how much extra electricity it
> chews up! :-) It's a 2HP 220V cyclone with a 7" input port, and it can
> suck the chrome off a trailer hitch. My router table has a little 2"
> port for the cabinet and a 1-1/4" port for the fence. I'm afraid the
> collector is going to suck the router right out of the table!
>
Make a manifold box so you can run the smaller hoses out of it, and if
needed (partially) open one or more of the smaller ports.
- Doug