The kitchen island I am finishing is planned to have 2 regular drawers on t=
op, side by side. Then 2 large drawers below, 1on top of the other. These=
2 will be 9.5x36x20. My friend was saying he thought that having 36" wide=
drawers would be bad as they would get heavy and bind up. He felt I shou=
ld split each in half. Thoughts?
Jim
jtpr <[email protected]> wrote in
news:0aca3c86-ff67-4c46-83d0-729b70161c02@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.
com:
> The kitchen island I am finishing is planned to have 2 regular drawers
> on top, side by side. Then 2 large drawers below, 1on top of the
> other. These 2 will be 9.5x36x20. My friend was saying he thought
> that having 36" wide drawers would be bad as they would get heavy and
> bind up. He felt I should split each in half. Thoughts?
>
> Jim
We've got a couple big trays that are close to that size in an island.
With the various pans and cooling racks in there, they still slide nicely.
They are commercial cabinets, so I have no idea what they used for the
slide.
The biggest problem with them (by far) is they're trays and not real
drawers. Things get stacked and then fall into the cabinet.
Puckdropper
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:41:49 -0700, Morgans wrote:
>
>> Get quality full
>> extension ball bearing slides, and no problems. I have similar drawers
>> and love them.
>
> And I've done them with no slides at all - just birch on birch. But if
> they're going to hold over 50 pounds each I'd also go with the slides or
> at least a little UHMW over the birch.
>
>
For the kitchen I would go with slides but I just built a tool cabinet with
drawers made of Baltic birch ply and they run on maple. I put .020 X 3/4 W.
UHMW on the Maple.
Works "slick". ;-)
Max
jtpr wrote:
> The kitchen island I am finishing is planned to have 2 regular
> drawers on top, side by side. Then 2 large drawers below, 1on top of
> the other. These 2 will be 9.5x36x20. My friend was saying he
> thought that having 36" wide drawers would be bad as they would get
> heavy and bind up. He felt I should split each in half. Thoughts?
>
> Jim
Nothing wrong with the drawer size. The problem comes, IMO, when you want
to get stuff out of them.
Since it is a kitchen, I'm guessing you intend to store pots and pans.
They - especially skillets - tend to get stacked one on/in another and
little ones sort of get lost. As an alternative, think about installing two
shallow (2-4 inch) trays behind a pair of doors...open the doors and you can
see and have easy access to everything. That's what I did in our island:
two shallow drawers on each side at the top, two pairs of drawers each side
below the drawers with two trays behind each pair of drawers. Works well.
The top drawers are for small stuff - spatulas, cooking forks, etc. - and
all are divided into compartments with moveable partitions so that you don't
have to paw through a mess of stuff to find what you want.
An easy way to compartmentalize drawers is to cut a series of shallow,
evenly spaced "V" grooves along each side about 1 - 1 1/2" apart using a saw
tilted to 45 degrees; the partitions can then be easily made by
sanding/cutting a male "V" on 1/4" ply. Depending on the drawer size, it
may be a good idea to add one or more permanent partitions either fore and
aft or cross wise or both. Those would also need "V" grooves. If you
decide to do this, keep in mind that the grooves need to line up, one side
to another, which means you have keep "right & left" in mind when
positioning them for cutting.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
In article
<0aca3c86-ff67-4c46-83d0-729b70161c02@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com>,
jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> The kitchen island I am finishing is planned to have 2 regular drawers
> on top, side by side. Then 2 large drawers below, 1on top of the other.
> These 2 will be 9.5x36x20. My friend was saying he thought that having
> 36" wide drawers would be bad as they would get heavy and bind up. He
> felt I should split each in half. Thoughts?
Depends waht you intend putting in them!
In a chest in my bedroom I have a draw which is 24x26x13. The front half
has bottles of whiskey, the rear section is full of recording tape on 10"
NAB spools. The latter are heavy but the draw slides well enough on 2x1
timber screwed to the sides of the chest.
--
Stuart Winsor
Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011
http://mug.riscos.org/show11/MUGshow.html
"jtpr" wrote in message
news:0aca3c86-ff67-4c46-83d0-729b70161c02@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com...
The kitchen island I am finishing is planned to have 2 regular drawers on
top, side by side. Then 2 large drawers below, 1on top of the other. These
2 will be 9.5x36x20. My friend was saying he thought that having 36" wide
drawers would be bad as they would get heavy and bind up. He felt I should
split each in half. Thoughts?
************************************************
Get quality full extension ball bearing slides, and no problems. I have
similar drawers and love them.
-- Jim in NC
On 4/24/2011 3:35 PM, jtpr wrote:
> The kitchen island I am finishing is planned to have 2 regular drawers on top, side by side. Then 2 large drawers below, 1on top of the other. These 2 will be 9.5x36x20. My friend was saying he thought that having 36" wide drawers would be bad as they would get heavy and bind up. He felt I should split each in half. Thoughts?
Properly designed, and properly mounted, that wide a drawer will
certainly work, despite a heavy load.
However, unless you have made lots of drawers, you may want to run your
drawer building techniques past some eyes that have.
FWIW, here's a MINIMUM design for a 36" width drawer that, with heavy
duty slides (like the KV-8800 series), will stand up to heavy duty use
and hold at least 100lbs, if not more, that will probably stand up to
most kitchen island use:
http://e-woodshop.net/images/WideDrawer.jpg
If you use Sketchup:
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=c3ca18fc89504c3bb2c2cd006d206129
As designed above, and with heavy duty, side mounted slides like the
KV8800 series, this drawer would fit in a 37 1/2" rough opening ... to
make it fit a 36" opening, narrow the drawer width to 34 1/2", and the
components correspondingly.
No matter what, and when making drawers that mount with slides of any
kind, decide upon your drawer slides before you design and build your
drawers.
With most standard duty, side mounted, full extension drawer slides, the
drawer width is usually 1" narrower than the rough opening; with heavy
duty, side mounted, full extension drawer slides you can expect the
drawer to be 1 1/2" narrower than the rough opening ... double check
before building.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 08:15:35 -0500, "Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>
>
>"Swingman" wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>On 4/25/2011 6:50 AM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Upscale" wrote in message
>
>> I've never built drawers of the width that the OP has in mind, but I
>> imagine
>> that aside from suitable drawer slides, the next most important detail is
>> the incorporation of drawer bottoms with suitable strength and support.
>>
>> That is some thing to consider however when my wife doubted 1/4" plywood
>> in the 24" x 36" drawers I put the drawer on the floor upside down and
>> stood on it. It did bow however I was 2~3 times the weight that the
>> drawers were ever going to see. My drawer sides were constructed of 3/4"
>> lumber core. Drawer dados were 3/8" deep and 1/2" from the bottom.
>
>1/4" bottoms is what I use when I build mine. But, when I build them
>that wide for someone else I use 1/2" bottoms so there is little chance
>I will ever get a call back. :)
>
>How is Durrette coming along?
Y'mean Tourette? How is that old cuss?
--
Make up your mind to act decidedly and take the consequences.
No good is ever done in this world by hesitation.
-- Thomas H. Huxley
"jtpr" wrote in message
news:0aca3c86-ff67-4c46-83d0-729b70161c02@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com...
The kitchen island I am finishing is planned to have 2 regular drawers on
top, side by side. Then 2 large drawers below, 1on top of the other. These
2 will be 9.5x36x20. My friend was saying he thought that having 36" wide
drawers would be bad as they would get heavy and bind up. He felt I should
split each in half. Thoughts?
Jim
.
Put in 3, 36"wide by 24" deep by 4" tall drawers in my kitchen re-do 20+
years ago. These hold pots and pans and so far they still perform very
nicely. I used 100# rated KV full extension slides. I also used 1/4
plywood for bottoms, and again plenty strong. Further I have been doing
this ever since, still no problems.
In article <[email protected]>, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...
>
> "Swingman" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> On 4/25/2011 6:50 AM, Leon wrote:
> >
> >
> > "Upscale" wrote in message
>
> > I've never built drawers of the width that the OP has in mind, but I
> > imagine
> > that aside from suitable drawer slides, the next most important detail is
> > the incorporation of drawer bottoms with suitable strength and support.
> >
> > That is some thing to consider however when my wife doubted 1/4" plywood
> > in the 24" x 36" drawers I put the drawer on the floor upside down and
> > stood on it. It did bow however I was 2~3 times the weight that the
> > drawers were ever going to see. My drawer sides were constructed of 3/4"
> > lumber core. Drawer dados were 3/8" deep and 1/2" from the bottom.
>
> 1/4" bottoms is what I use when I build mine. But, when I build them
> that wide for someone else I use 1/2" bottoms so there is little chance
> I will ever get a call back. :)
Nobody ever complains when you built something too strong (unless it's a
breakaway prop for a movie set).
I tend to run the sagulator and size things accordingly as simply
supported shelves. Then any reinforcement adds strength.
> How is Durrette coming along?
"Upscale" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
> nicely. I used 100# rated KV full extension slides. I also used 1/4
> plywood for bottoms, and again plenty strong.
I've never built drawers of the width that the OP has in mind, but I imagine
that aside from suitable drawer slides, the next most important detail is
the incorporation of drawer bottoms with suitable strength and support.
That is some thing to consider however when my wife doubted 1/4" plywood in
the 24" x 36" drawers I put the drawer on the floor upside down and stood on
it. It did bow however I was 2~3 times the weight that the drawers were
ever going to see. My drawer sides were constructed of 3/4" lumber core.
Drawer dados were 3/8" deep and 1/2" from the bottom.
"Swingman" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On 4/25/2011 6:50 AM, Leon wrote:
>
>
> "Upscale" wrote in message
> I've never built drawers of the width that the OP has in mind, but I
> imagine
> that aside from suitable drawer slides, the next most important detail is
> the incorporation of drawer bottoms with suitable strength and support.
>
> That is some thing to consider however when my wife doubted 1/4" plywood
> in the 24" x 36" drawers I put the drawer on the floor upside down and
> stood on it. It did bow however I was 2~3 times the weight that the
> drawers were ever going to see. My drawer sides were constructed of 3/4"
> lumber core. Drawer dados were 3/8" deep and 1/2" from the bottom.
1/4" bottoms is what I use when I build mine. But, when I build them
that wide for someone else I use 1/2" bottoms so there is little chance
I will ever get a call back. :)
How is Durrette coming along?
On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:41:49 -0700, Morgans wrote:
> Get quality full
> extension ball bearing slides, and no problems. I have similar drawers
> and love them.
And I've done them with no slides at all - just birch on birch. But if
they're going to hold over 50 pounds each I'd also go with the slides or
at least a little UHMW over the birch.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On 4/25/2011 6:50 AM, Leon wrote:
>
>
> "Upscale" wrote in message
> I've never built drawers of the width that the OP has in mind, but I
> imagine
> that aside from suitable drawer slides, the next most important detail is
> the incorporation of drawer bottoms with suitable strength and support.
>
> That is some thing to consider however when my wife doubted 1/4" plywood
> in the 24" x 36" drawers I put the drawer on the floor upside down and
> stood on it. It did bow however I was 2~3 times the weight that the
> drawers were ever going to see. My drawer sides were constructed of 3/4"
> lumber core. Drawer dados were 3/8" deep and 1/2" from the bottom.
1/4" bottoms is what I use when I build mine. But, when I build them
that wide for someone else I use 1/2" bottoms so there is little chance
I will ever get a call back. :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in message
> nicely. I used 100# rated KV full extension slides. I also used 1/4
> plywood for bottoms, and again plenty strong.
I've never built drawers of the width that the OP has in mind, but I imagine
that aside from suitable drawer slides, the next most important detail is
the incorporation of drawer bottoms with suitable strength and support.
I could never get turned on with rollers though.
--------------------
"basilisk" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Depends on whether they are for show or utility,
I dated a gal once that had really big drawers, they slide
just fine even though they were carrying a fairly wide load.
:)
basilisk
On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:35:44 -0700 (PDT), jtpr wrote:
> The kitchen island I am finishing is planned to have 2 regular drawers on top, side by side. Then 2 large drawers below, 1on top of the other. These 2 will be 9.5x36x20. My friend was saying he thought that having 36" wide drawers would be bad as they would get heavy and bind up. He felt I should split each in half. Thoughts?
>
> Jim
Depends on whether they are for show or utility,
I dated a gal once that had really big drawers, they slide
just fine even though they were carrying a fairly wide load.
:)
basilisk
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 08:15:35 -0500, "Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > "Swingman" wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> > On 4/25/2011 6:50 AM, Leon wrote:
> > >
> > >
> >> "Upscale" wrote in message
> >
> >> I've never built drawers of the width that the OP has in mind,
> but I >> imagine
> >> that aside from suitable drawer slides, the next most important
> detail is >> the incorporation of drawer bottoms with suitable
> strength and support.
> > >
> >> That is some thing to consider however when my wife doubted 1/4"
> plywood >> in the 24" x 36" drawers I put the drawer on the floor
> upside down and >> stood on it. It did bow however I was 2~3 times
> the weight that the >> drawers were ever going to see. My drawer
> sides were constructed of 3/4" >> lumber core. Drawer dados were
> 3/8" deep and 1/2" from the bottom.
> >
> > 1/4" bottoms is what I use when I build mine. But, when I build
> > them that wide for someone else I use 1/2" bottoms so there is
> > little chance I will ever get a call back. :)
> >
> > How is Durrette coming along?
>
> Y'mean Tourette? How is that old cuss?
Only on a small arse