"C" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> Surface rust can be controlled with a light application of WD40. A light
> spray of silicone will reduce friction.
Sorry C, Totally wrong with the Silicone advice. Silicone will come off on
the wood and create all kinds of havoc when trying to apply a finish. Keep
silicone away from you wood and your woodworking tools.
>
Can't be "Bees Wax" as in the walnut oil beeswax mixture for treenware?
Made in Holland, MI?
"ClemsonDave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I see a lot of people suggesting paste wax. Just be careful. Do not use
> car wax, most contain petroleum - not good for your finish on the wood. I
> use BeesWax - furniture grade wax. Picked it up at Woodcraft.
>
> dave
I use Topcote and for removing rust I did find a product for removing
rust. The product is a green liquid that you apply to the rust area
and then use stell wool to polish the area affected. I have been able
to restore some minor rust on tools that had been hit by rain when
woking outdoors.
Daniel
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Get the product made for this. TopCote. Originally intended to make the
> wood slide easier and as an added benefit will help to prevent rust. It
> does not need to be removed before using the TS and will not cause finish
> problems.
>
>
> "avthokie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi,
> > I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of
> > their table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...
> >
> > I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over
> > the sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I
> > would expect.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Rob
I have had very good results with a couple of different brands of car
wax- both made a big deal on the label about their high percentages of
caranauba. both were a bit stiffer to apply and dried a bit harder
than furniture or floor wax. neither had silicone. any other petroleum
distillates must have evaporated completely enough to not be a
problem.
I'd use them again.
Bridger
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:56:42 -0500, "ClemsonDave"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I see a lot of people suggesting paste wax. Just be careful. Do not use
>car wax, most contain petroleum - not good for your finish on the wood. I
>use BeesWax - furniture grade wax. Picked it up at Woodcraft.
>
>dave
>
>
>"avthokie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hi,
>> I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of
>> their table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...
>>
>> I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over
>> the sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I
>> would expect.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Rob
>
Boy this group is tough. Couple of slips of the fingers and get hammered.
Petroleum, silicone, the point is be careful with car wax!
yes, it is not a hard wax, but it works well for me. I use it about every
other time after using TS/jointer. It does not build up too thick of a
film, which I like. It wipes on and off with ease.
The product I use is Briwax, sorry not Beeswax. It is a blend of beeswax
and carnouba.
Hey I did not capitalize the 'y' in yes above. Anyone pick that up?
dave
"ClemsonDave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I see a lot of people suggesting paste wax. Just be careful. Do not use
> car wax, most contain petroleum - not good for your finish on the wood. I
> use BeesWax - furniture grade wax. Picked it up at Woodcraft.
>
> dave
>
>
> "avthokie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi,
> > I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of
> > their table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...
> >
> > I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over
> > the sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I
> > would expect.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Rob
>
>
Periodically I clean the cast iron surfaces of all my equipment with a
rag dampened with kerosene. If the rag has too much kero in it, the
job turns a bit messy-greasy. Then I wipe the surfaces with a clean
dry towel, then use paste wax and buff. The table saw extension (a
plastic laminate) just gets a wax and buff treatment. I use the
electric auto buffer when I'm feeling lazy.
In article <[email protected]>, "ClemsonDave" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I see a lot of people suggesting paste wax. Just be careful. Do not use
>car wax, most contain petroleum - not good for your finish on the wood. I
>use BeesWax - furniture grade wax. Picked it up at Woodcraft.
>
Right advice, wrong reason. It's the silicone in car wax that causes the
problem.
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
Nothing! my machine is in use for roughly 6 hours a day so it does`nt
get rust on it,if not we use a teflon spray,never had problems with
finishing after using the older silicon sprays either
Get the product made for this. TopCote. Originally intended to make the
wood slide easier and as an added benefit will help to prevent rust. It
does not need to be removed before using the TS and will not cause finish
problems.
"avthokie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
> I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of
> their table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...
>
> I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over
> the sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I
> would expect.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
I see a lot of people suggesting paste wax. Just be careful. Do not use
car wax, most contain petroleum - not good for your finish on the wood. I
use BeesWax - furniture grade wax. Picked it up at Woodcraft.
dave
"avthokie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
> I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of
> their table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...
>
> I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over
> the sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I
> would expect.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
Don't eat the honey. That's bee barf.
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The Davenports state:
>
> >
> >I don't mind the bees knees anywhere near as much as the bee poop
>
> That's the wax, so I suggest you stick with canning wax.
>
> Charlie Self
Clemson Dave responds:
>I see a lot of people suggesting paste wax. Just be careful. Do not use
>car wax, most contain petroleum - not good for your finish on the wood. I
>use BeesWax - furniture grade wax. Picked it up at Woodcraft.
Petroleum has squat to do with it. Many, maybe most, car waxes contain
silicone, which creates fish-eyes in finishes. Beeswax is actually a tad soft,
but if melted and combined with a harder wax--carnauba (sp? George) for
instance--it does fine. Check with local beekeepers for beeswax, though.
Woodcraft gets 11 bucks a half pound, plus shipping. Beekeepers in my area of
VA get from $2 to $4 a pound. You might have to strain it through cheesecloth,
but a few bees knees really don't hurt most uses.
Charlie Self
"Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
paint thinner if needed, and paste wax.
Tony
"avthokie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
> I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of
> their table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...
>
> I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over
> the sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I
> would expect.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
"Bridger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I have had very good results with a couple of different brands of car
> wax- both made a big deal on the label about their high percentages of
> caranauba. both were a bit stiffer to apply and dried a bit harder
> than furniture or floor wax. neither had silicone. any other petroleum
> distillates must have evaporated completely enough to not be a
> problem.
Any chance you'd be willing to share the brand names? Save an ol' f*rt like
me, with bad eyes, the trouble of squinting at 12 cans in Auto Zone? :)!!
Hope you weren't serious about using silicone on ANY woodworking
tools. If it gets onto the wood it will make a hell of a mess if you
try to apply finish to the wood
WD40 is not bad for cleaning the cast iron, mineral spirits or
kerosene work just as well.
Apply floor paste wax to the clean and now rust free cast iron, and it
may take several coats to get it really slick
John
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 22:04:59 -0600, C <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 19:19:21 -0800, avthokie wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of their
>> table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...
>>
>> I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over the
>> sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I would
>> expect.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Rob
>
>Surface rust can be controlled with a light application of WD40. A light
>spray of silicone will reduce friction.
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:17:21 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Bridger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> I have had very good results with a couple of different brands of car
>> wax- both made a big deal on the label about their high percentages of
>> caranauba. both were a bit stiffer to apply and dried a bit harder
>> than furniture or floor wax. neither had silicone. any other petroleum
>> distillates must have evaporated completely enough to not be a
>> problem.
>
>Any chance you'd be willing to share the brand names? Save an ol' f*rt like
>me, with bad eyes, the trouble of squinting at 12 cans in Auto Zone? :)!!
>
one was branded harly. haven't seen that one in a while. the other was
meguiar's (or something close to that). it seems to be available at
most of the carparts chain stores around here. (autoborg?)
Bridger
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "ClemsonDave"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >I see a lot of people suggesting paste wax. Just be careful. Do not use
> >car wax, most contain petroleum - not good for your finish on the wood.
I
> >use BeesWax - furniture grade wax. Picked it up at Woodcraft.
> >
> Right advice, wrong reason. It's the silicone in car wax that causes the
> problem.
>
> --
Another reason, Turtle Wax (and other automotive waxes, I presume) seems to
have water in it. I didn't know this or discover the one post in the
archives (several years old) from someone who had the same problem until I'd
already made the mistake.
So, here goes...my very first DAMHIKT. (Is it a coincidence that it looks a
lot like DAMN IT?)
I applied the Turtle Wax to my brand new saw just after carefully removing
the Cosmoline and excitedly admiring the (ooh...aahh) shiny new surface. By
the time the wax was ready to buff, EVERY WAX STREAK HAD ALREADY CAUSED A
RUST STAIN. AAAARRRRGGGGHHHHHH! Both extension wings as well...
The stains were really stubborn too. Nothing but a Scotchbright and a great
deal of muscle faded the rust stains. WD-40 and brake cleaning spray didn't
touch it. I worked that table (almost) back to new with pure friction. I
have Boeshield on it now, but I'm thinking about going the paste wax route.
Learn from this newbie, don't use car wax!
Tom
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 19:19:21 -0800, avthokie wrote:
> Hi,
> I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of their
> table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...
>
> I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over the
> sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I would
> expect.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
Surface rust can be controlled with a light application of WD40. A light
spray of silicone will reduce friction.
C bogus writes:
>
>Surface rust can be controlled with a light application of WD40. A light
>spray of silicone will reduce friction.
WD40 is not a lube and doesn't prevent rust. Silicone causes fish-eyes in
finishes. WD40 works great to clean the cosmoline and other grease off the
table, after which a coating of Johnson's floor wax keeps major rust from
forming. Boeshield works very well too, and is easier to apply. Top Cote is
also excellent.
Silicone is any form is anethema in woodworking.
Charlie Self
"Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
Anathema/an enema, which is it?
Pate wax to protect, paraffin (canning wax for the blokes) rub for an
instant slide. Use the same block you use to lube your fasteners.
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Silicone is any form is anethema in woodworking.
>
Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>Pate wax to protect, paraffin (canning wax for the blokes) rub for an
>>Either. What kind of pate do you want to use?
> Why are people waxing their goose livers, Chahhhls?
To me, "pate wax" suggests something more like Brill Creme than goose liver.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
George responds:
>Anathema/an enema, which is it?
>
>Pate wax to protect, paraffin (canning wax for the blokes) rub for an
>instant slide. Use the same block you use to lube your fasteners.
>
Either. What kind of pate do you want to use?
Charlie Self
"Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
As in chopped, like liver?
I use paraffin/mineral oil.
Spelling good, concept, strange, proofread non-existent.
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George responds:
>
> >Anathema/an enema, which is it?
> >
> >Pate wax to protect, paraffin (canning wax for the blokes) rub for an
> >instant slide. Use the same block you use to lube your fasteners.
> >
>
> Either. What kind of pate do you want to use?
>
> Charlie Self
> "Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
>
> http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
On 22 Jan 2004 14:55:02 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
brought forth from the murky depths:
>George responds:
>
>>Anathema/an enema, which is it?
>>
>>Pate wax to protect, paraffin (canning wax for the blokes) rub for an
>>instant slide. Use the same block you use to lube your fasteners.
>>
>
>Either. What kind of pate do you want to use?
Why are people waxing their goose livers, Chahhhls?
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On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 10:52:29 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>>>>Pate wax to protect, paraffin (canning wax for the blokes) rub for an
>
>>>Either. What kind of pate do you want to use?
>
>> Why are people waxing their goose livers, Chahhhls?
>
>To me, "pate wax" suggests something more like Brill Creme than goose liver.
Yeah, I guess it would have to be "paté wax" to be goose liver....
Bridger
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 04:15:55 +0000, Leon wrote:
>
> "C" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
>> Surface rust can be controlled with a light application of WD40. A
>> light spray of silicone will reduce friction.
>
> Sorry C, Totally wrong with the Silicone advice. Silicone will come off
> on the wood and create all kinds of havoc when trying to apply a finish.
> Keep silicone away from you wood and your woodworking tools.
>
>
>>
OK. I have not noticed any problems yet, but I will cease its use.
Thanks.
On 21 Jan 2004 19:19:21 -0800, [email protected] (avthokie) wrote:
>Hi,
>I would like to know what the "pro's" use to treat/clean the tops of
>their table saws, jointers, drill press', etc...
>
>I had been told that all I needed to do was to rub wax paper all over
>the sliding surfaces, but I am not getting the smooth slide that I
>would expect.
>
>Thanks,
>Rob
paste wax. rub it on, let it dry for a bit, rub it off.