sS

[email protected] (Scott Fuhrman)

01/10/2004 12:39 PM

Harbor Freight Electric HVLP kit

Hi all,

Just wanted to mention that I went ahead and purchased the el cheapo
Harbor Freight electric HVLP kit, for $69.99. Comes with the gun, the
electric turbine (4 psi), 15 feet of hose, a viscosity cup, and 3
different needles/nozzles. Turbine says it users 1000 watts. The gun
is a bleader, which I assume is needed to keep the turbine box cool
enough. Instructions are very basic, and don't tell much, but there
isn't much needed. It did say the viscosity cup should drain in 8-20
seconds for best results, which I found to be pretty accurate. I got
this kit because my air compressor isn't big enough to put out the
volume needed by a HVLP conversion gun.

I didn't expect much, but I have been pleasantly surprised. I am
currently spraying a wood chest, approx. 2 feet high x 2 feet deep x4
feet long. Yesterday I sprayed some Killz latex primer on it. I had
to thin it down a bit, which was to be expected. Killz is pretty
thick stuff, after all. Atomization was pretty good, it didn't shoot
big globs ever.

Turbine sounds like, and is about as loud as a vacuum cleaner. It
could also be used as a nice inflator for rubber rafts, air matresses,
etc. Hose was of decent quality. Gun is easy to take apart and clean.
The cup and gun body are made of a black plastic that seemed to resist
sticking to paint farily well. Cleanup was pretty easy, I just
disassembled the gun, rinsed the cup, and soaked the parts in some
warm water for a few minutes.

It took about 10 or 15 minutes to get the hang of it, but once I did,
it put on a pretty nice coat - definately nicer than I could do
brushing. The only adjustment on the gun adjusts how far the needle
is retracted when the trigger is squezed, which effectivley tunes how
much paint you are spraying out. At first I was putting way to much
on and got some runs - but after I got the hang of it I was putting on
a nice coat with no runs. I found it better to run it on the lean
side, and make multiple passes to ensure a nice coat. Overspray was
minimal, which really was nice. My clothes and garage were not
covered with little specs of paint everywhere like a high pressure
sprayer, or cheap Wagner diaphram gun.

Tonight I will be sanding the primer then putting on a top coat or two
of latex paint. Now that I am kind of used to it, I think I can put
on a pretty nice topcoat and have a good paint job. With the cost of
the thing, I am pretty impressed. No, I don't expect it to last
forever, but then again, I don't do a tremendous amount of paiting
either. Once I finish this project up, I will be paiting kitchen
cupboards with an oil primer and paint. The key is to keep the paint
a but on the light side and make a few passes, keeping the gun
perpendicular to the work surface.

Anyway, just thought I would pass this along. I wouldn't paint my car
with it, but it works pretty well for small projects. I would say it
is on par with the $200 range CH units.


This topic has 5 replies

Gg

GerryG

in reply to [email protected] (Scott Fuhrman) on 01/10/2004 12:39 PM

02/10/2004 12:18 AM

You might test drive the latex topcoat first. After adding some latex flow
additive, a similar kit produced very nice results.
GerryG

On 1 Oct 2004 12:39:46 -0700, [email protected] (Scott Fuhrman) wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>Just wanted to mention that I went ahead and purchased the el cheapo
>Harbor Freight electric HVLP kit, for $69.99. Comes with the gun, the
>electric turbine (4 psi), 15 feet of hose, a viscosity cup, and 3
>different needles/nozzles. Turbine says it users 1000 watts. The gun
><snip>
>Tonight I will be sanding the primer then putting on a top coat or two
>of latex paint. Now that I am kind of used to it, I think I can put
>on a pretty nice topcoat and have a good paint job. With the cost of
>the thing, I am pretty impressed. No, I don't expect it to last
>forever, but then again, I don't do a tremendous amount of paiting
>either. Once I finish this project up, I will be paiting kitchen
>cupboards with an oil primer and paint. The key is to keep the paint
>a but on the light side and make a few passes, keeping the gun
>perpendicular to the work surface.
>
>Anyway, just thought I would pass this along. I wouldn't paint my car
>with it, but it works pretty well for small projects. I would say it
>is on par with the $200 range CH units.

sS

[email protected] (Scott Fuhrman)

in reply to [email protected] (Scott Fuhrman) on 01/10/2004 12:39 PM

01/10/2004 7:47 PM

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Scott - good review. One suggestion for you... practice with that gun a bit
> and try to develop the knack for spraying with a pretty healthy spray and
> not get runs. Obviously, you'll be developing your sense of spraying speed
> in order to prevent the runs. The principle here is that you'll get better
> finishes with wetter coats than you will with dry coats. This becomes
> especially true with top coats. You'll be happy to have less sanding to do
> than if you put on dry coats and end up with orange peel. Practice makes
> perfect and all that.


Thanks for the tip. I did some more spraying tonight, and did good
and bad. At first my primer was too thick, then too thin, then I got
it just right. It definately takes some practice to get the speed
right so I can do things in just one pass and get a nice coat. It
will be interesting to use actual paint as it is quite a bit thinner
than the Killz primer. Oh well, will do that tomorrow.

Scott

MM

"Mike Marlow"

in reply to [email protected] (Scott Fuhrman) on 01/10/2004 12:39 PM

01/10/2004 10:45 PM


"Scott Fuhrman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> It took about 10 or 15 minutes to get the hang of it, but once I did,
> it put on a pretty nice coat - definately nicer than I could do
> brushing. The only adjustment on the gun adjusts how far the needle
> is retracted when the trigger is squezed, which effectivley tunes how
> much paint you are spraying out. At first I was putting way to much
> on and got some runs - but after I got the hang of it I was putting on
> a nice coat with no runs. I found it better to run it on the lean
> side, and make multiple passes to ensure a nice coat. Overspray was
> minimal, which really was nice. My clothes and garage were not
> covered with little specs of paint everywhere like a high pressure
> sprayer, or cheap Wagner diaphram gun.
>

Scott - good review. One suggestion for you... practice with that gun a bit
and try to develop the knack for spraying with a pretty healthy spray and
not get runs. Obviously, you'll be developing your sense of spraying speed
in order to prevent the runs. The principle here is that you'll get better
finishes with wetter coats than you will with dry coats. This becomes
especially true with top coats. You'll be happy to have less sanding to do
than if you put on dry coats and end up with orange peel. Practice makes
perfect and all that.
--

-Mike-
[email protected]

in

igor

in reply to [email protected] (Scott Fuhrman) on 01/10/2004 12:39 PM

02/10/2004 2:34 AM

On 1 Oct 2004 12:39:46 -0700, [email protected] (Scott Fuhrman)
wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>Just wanted to mention that I went ahead and purchased the el cheapo
>Harbor Freight electric HVLP kit, for $69.99.......

Thanks.

MM

"Mike Marlow"

in reply to [email protected] (Scott Fuhrman) on 01/10/2004 12:39 PM

02/10/2004 3:47 AM


"Scott Fuhrman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Scott - good review. One suggestion for you... practice with that gun a
bit
> > and try to develop the knack for spraying with a pretty healthy spray
and
> > not get runs. Obviously, you'll be developing your sense of spraying
speed
> > in order to prevent the runs. The principle here is that you'll get
better
> > finishes with wetter coats than you will with dry coats. This becomes
> > especially true with top coats. You'll be happy to have less sanding to
do
> > than if you put on dry coats and end up with orange peel. Practice
makes
> > perfect and all that.
>
>
> Thanks for the tip. I did some more spraying tonight, and did good
> and bad. At first my primer was too thick, then too thin, then I got
> it just right. It definately takes some practice to get the speed
> right so I can do things in just one pass and get a nice coat. It
> will be interesting to use actual paint as it is quite a bit thinner
> than the Killz primer. Oh well, will do that tomorrow.
>
> Scott

Well, let us know how it goes tomorrow. Try to think of your coats as if
you were stretching a film of plastic, or that nasty stuff that the wife
keeps in the kitchen that only women can properly stretch over a plate of
leftovers, over your object. It's really helpful to have lots and lots of
good light and watch your coats go on. Don't try to just feel it. Watch
the spread and you'll see when it's getting to heavy and you'll find it much
easier to gauge your spray speed.

I'm in the habit of mixing up whatever I'm spraying with anal retentive
precision. It's a must when spraying cars and it carries over into other
types of spraying projects. The advantage is that you don't have to deal
with the issues of too thick one time, too thin another. Experiment, find
the right thickness, and record it for future use. Then be sure to mix
exactly that way the next time you use the same stuff.

Good luck and happy spraying.
--

-Mike-
[email protected]


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