"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> Actual 1/4" plywood would be actually be 1/4".
I did refer to "actual 1/4" ply". What I meant by "actual" is the
dictionary definition "existing now; present; current", i.e. the stuff that
is currently on the shelf, but I can see how it could be interpreted the way
you did.
todd
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I would be filing the cutter that makes the groove the ply fits in. Of
>> course when you do that, you have to be able to adjust the mating cutter
>> to compensate so the rails and stiles still fit together properly.
>
> Ok, are you saying you will file the slot cutter to make it cut a wider
> slot? I don't think that is possible. Or are you saying to file an
> actual 1/4" slot cutter doen to less than 7/32"?
Why would I want the slot wider to fit a panel that is smaller? Here's the
deal. The rail and stile cutters create a slot that is roughly 7/32". I'd
like that slot to be smaller, since no 1/4" ply I find is that large.
Therefore, I would need the cutter that creates that slot to be smaller.
>>> It's either that or shimming the 1/4" panel in the
>>>> slot.
>>>
>>>
>>> If you use space balls the rattle will disappear although the gap will
>>> still be there. Or shim like you mentioned.
>>
>> I would use space balls. I would shim so the gap would be on the back
>> side.
>> I've also heard of folks using 3/8 ply and cutting the edges down to the
>> appropriate size.
>
>
> If the expense is not significant that does work out nicely. It makes the
> panel look sorta raised on the back side also.
For one run of cabinet doors, I doubt the cost difference is significant for
me. Next problem...finding 3/8" maple ply. Local place stocks 1/4", 1/2",
and 3/4"
todd
On 2007-03-21 08:51:57 -0700, "bdeditch" <[email protected]> said:
> I have seen many that you have to buy the conversion kit, but doesn't
> someone make one that you don't have to change the slot cutter?
Amana sells what you are looking for too.
http://www.amanatool.com/routerbits/missionstyle-cabinetmaking-55438.html
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>
>> Actual 1/4" plywood would be actually be 1/4".
>
> I did refer to "actual 1/4" ply". What I meant by "actual" is the
> dictionary definition "existing now; present; current", i.e. the stuff
> that is currently on the shelf, but I can see how it could be interpreted
> the way you did.
>
> todd
>
Actual
1. Existing and not merely potential or possible. See synonyms at real1.
2. Being, existing, or acting at the present moment; current.
I took the first description. Either way, I am on track now. ;~)
Lowell Holmes wrote:
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> snip
>
>>If you use space balls the rattle will disappear although the gap will
>>still be there. Or shim like you mentioned.
>>
>
> Where do you get space balls?
>
>
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2020&filter=spaceballs
http://www.spaceballs.com/
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4wEMh.19007$Hb2.5630@trndny02...
> Lowell Holmes wrote:
>> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> snip
>>
>>>If you use space balls the rattle will disappear although the gap will
>>>still be there. Or shim like you mentioned.
>>>
>>
>> Where do you get space balls?
>>
>>
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2020&filter=spaceballs
>
> http://www.spaceballs.com/
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
Thanks!
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:G%[email protected]...
> You got lucky...Whiteside makes that set...
>
> http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs
>
> bdeditch wrote:
>
>> I have seen many that you have to buy the conversion kit, but doesn't
>> someone make one that you don't have to change the slot cutter?
>>
The problem is that everyone who makes their "undersize" 1/4" set makes them
to around 7/32". Maybe 1/4" plywood was made that size once upon a time,
but all of the 1/4" ply available in the hardwood lumber stores near me have
1/4" ply that is more like 3/16" in size. It still rattles around in the
"undersize" groove. I've considered filing the carbide of the groove cutter
to more closely approximate actual 1/4" ply and removing the shims from the
matching bit to match. It's either that or shimming the 1/4" panel in the
slot.
todd
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:G%[email protected]...
>>> You got lucky...Whiteside makes that set...
>>>
>>> http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs
>>>
>>> bdeditch wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have seen many that you have to buy the conversion kit, but doesn't
>>>> someone make one that you don't have to change the slot cutter?
>>>>
>>
>> The problem is that everyone who makes their "undersize" 1/4" set makes
>> them to around 7/32". Maybe 1/4" plywood was made that size once upon a
>> time, but all of the 1/4" ply available in the hardwood lumber stores
>> near me have 1/4" ply that is more like 3/16" in size.
>
> You are just unlucky I guess, I still get 7/32" plywood.
I guess I am. I visited two establishments and measured what they have and
called a third.
> It still rattles around in the
>> "undersize" groove. I've considered filing the carbide of the groove
>> cutter to more closely approximate actual 1/4" ply and removing the shims
>> from the matching bit to match.
>
> You lost me here, how would filing something make it larger?
I would be filing the cutter that makes the groove the ply fits in. Of
course when you do that, you have to be able to adjust the mating cutter to
compensate so the rails and stiles still fit together properly.
> It's either that or shimming the 1/4" panel in the
>> slot.
>
>
> If you use space balls the rattle will disappear although the gap will
> still be there. Or shim like you mentioned.
I would use space balls. I would shim so the gap would be on the back side.
I've also heard of folks using 3/8 ply and cutting the edges down to the
appropriate size.
todd
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
snip
>
> If you use space balls the rattle will disappear although the gap will
> still be there. Or shim like you mentioned.
>
Where do you get space balls?
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I would be filing the cutter that makes the groove the ply fits in. Of
> course when you do that, you have to be able to adjust the mating cutter
> to compensate so the rails and stiles still fit together properly.
Ok, are you saying you will file the slot cutter to make it cut a wider
slot? I don't think that is possible. Or are you saying to file an actual
1/4" slot cutter doen to less than 7/32"?
>> It's either that or shimming the 1/4" panel in the
>>> slot.
>>
>>
>> If you use space balls the rattle will disappear although the gap will
>> still be there. Or shim like you mentioned.
>
> I would use space balls. I would shim so the gap would be on the back
> side.
> I've also heard of folks using 3/8 ply and cutting the edges down to the
> appropriate size.
If the expense is not significant that does work out nicely. It makes the
panel look sorta raised on the back side also.
On Thu, 22 Mar 2007 23:00:24 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>snip
>>
>> If you use space balls the rattle will disappear although the gap will
>> still be there. Or shim like you mentioned.
>>
>Where do you get space balls?
Amazon in the Mel Brooks section.
<weg>
Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Why would I want the slot wider to fit a panel that is smaller? Here's
> the deal. The rail and stile cutters create a slot that is roughly 7/32".
> I'd like that slot to be smaller, since no 1/4" ply I find is that large.
> Therefore, I would need the cutter that creates that slot to be smaller.
As I indicated, the plywood sold as 1/4" is available and is commonly found
to be 7/32" thick.
You said, "I've considered filing the carbide of the groove cutter
to more closely approximate actual 1/4" ply and removing the shims from the
matching bit to match.. You said you had a cutter that made 7/32" groves.
Filing a 7/32" cutter is not going to make it cut 1/4".
Actual 1/4" plywood would be actually be 1/4".
It was the way you worded the comment that threw me off. Now I understand
that you meant plywood sold as 1/4" vs. actual 1/4" plywood.
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:G%[email protected]...
>> You got lucky...Whiteside makes that set...
>>
>> http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs
>>
>> bdeditch wrote:
>>
>>> I have seen many that you have to buy the conversion kit, but doesn't
>>> someone make one that you don't have to change the slot cutter?
>>>
>
> The problem is that everyone who makes their "undersize" 1/4" set makes
> them to around 7/32". Maybe 1/4" plywood was made that size once upon a
> time, but all of the 1/4" ply available in the hardwood lumber stores near
> me have 1/4" ply that is more like 3/16" in size.
You are just unlucky I guess, I still get 7/32" plywood.
It still rattles around in the
> "undersize" groove. I've considered filing the carbide of the groove
> cutter to more closely approximate actual 1/4" ply and removing the shims
> from the matching bit to match.
You lost me here, how would filing something make it larger?
It's either that or shimming the 1/4" panel in the
> slot.
If you use space balls the rattle will disappear although the gap will still
be there. Or shim like you mentioned.