I recently moved. I had owned a Delta Unisaw at my last location,
although I didn't get much chance to use it before relocating. I had to
sell the Unisaw. I now have much less shop space. I would like to get
back into woodworking, beginning with smaller projects, and am thinking
one of the better sliding compound miter saws might be a good 1st saw
for my smaller setup. I gather they have pretty much replaced radial
arm saws, and that the good ones can cut 12 inches wide (more, for some)
with very good accuracy. One question I have is, can you use a stacked
dado blade in one of these? Most of these saws are 1" arbor, Freud does
make a 10" 1" arbor dado set. Also, I am currently leaning toward the
LS1214L 12" Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Anyone have other
model suggestions to look at, or perhaps other saw types for a small
shop? I'm looking for maximum versatility & accuracy in a relatively
small package.
Thanks,
Dan
Hi Dan,
I have never used or even seen a dado set on a SCMS. I think a router would
be a better solution.
I use a SCMS for 80-90% of my cuts. As to sheet goods, many suppliers will
cut them to size and when they don't a circular saw with a shop made guide
works well. I have a L1013 and think it is great. Cheers, JG
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I recently moved. I had owned a Delta Unisaw at my last location, although
>I didn't get much chance to use it before relocating. I had to sell the
>Unisaw. I now have much less shop space. I would like to get back into
>woodworking, beginning with smaller projects, and am thinking one of the
>better sliding compound miter saws might be a good 1st saw for my smaller
>setup. I gather they have pretty much replaced radial arm saws, and that
>the good ones can cut 12 inches wide (more, for some) with very good
>accuracy. One question I have is, can you use a stacked dado blade in one
>of these? Most of these saws are 1" arbor, Freud does make a 10" 1" arbor
>dado set. Also, I am currently leaning toward the LS1214L 12" Dual Slide
>Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Anyone have other model suggestions to look
>at, or perhaps other saw types for a small shop? I'm looking for maximum
>versatility & accuracy in a relatively small package.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
JGS wrote:
> Hi again Dan,
>
> Some of the commercial guides are great. Many of us make our own by taking
> a 4' (or 8') piece of 1/4" plywood 3 or 4 inches wider then your circular
> saw. You then attach with screws a 1" X 1" very straight piece of wood (or
> in my case store bought at HD aluminum square tubing) to one side. Run you
> saw down the length holding it tight to the 1"X1". And Viola! a perfect
> guide for just a few dollars.
>
> As to a biscuit joiner, I suggest you take a look at a Kreg jig instead.
> Below is something I posted on another newsgroup. Cheers, JG
>
> Do you really need that type of joiner at all? This type of unit has been
> discussed many times on other groups and the result (added strength,
> alignment) of adding biscuits to a joint has been assessed in a few magazine
> tests.
> The executive summary of all of the above is, These units were designed to
> join sheet goods like plywood and particle board, not solid wood boards.
> They add no additional strength to a joint. However, they are a help in
> laying up a table top in that they can help with alignment if the unit cuts
> perfect slots and as long as the groove or biscuits are not telegraphed
> through to the surface.
> I have a semi pro shop and have not used mine in two years.
>
Thanks for the reply. I've never used biscuits, seen them used on the
woodworking shows, frankly I always did wonder if that thin piece of
wood added much, other than perhaps a bit more glue area. I ordered a
beadlock loose tenon system http://www.beadlock.com/. Certainly worth a
try for the $$$.
Dan
JGS wrote:
> Hi Dan,
> I have never used or even seen a dado set on a SCMS. I think a router would
> be a better solution.
> I use a SCMS for 80-90% of my cuts. As to sheet goods, many suppliers will
> cut them to size and when they don't a circular saw with a shop made guide
> works well. I have a L1013 and think it is great. Cheers, JG
>
JGS-Thanks for the reply. I had been thinking of the using a dado for a
specific project where I wanted to use a half lap joint, but by
coincidence I saw these demonstrated on a DIY network show yesterday
http://www.beadlock.com/ I think now I'll go with a miter & beadlock or
biscuits (no biscuit tool at the moment) at this location (table leg to
top support). I think the beadlocks only go up to 1/2" (why?!?) and the
stock I'm considering is 3/4, so I may have to spring for a biscuit
cutter, or use screws from the side.
I do have a nice Hitachi plunge router. Should get a router table.
I understand the Festool (http://www.festoolusa.com/) and Smartguide
(http://www.eurekazone.org/products/index.html) are good commercial guides.
If anyone has any input on biscuit cutters, the saw guides or good
router tables, please pass them on.
Dan
Dan,
How are you going to cut sheet stock? I don't know how much space you have
or the layout, but I would opt for one of the portable table saws that fold
up and sit in the corner. Maybe in addition to a slider.
Bob
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I recently moved. I had owned a Delta Unisaw at my last location, although
>I didn't get much chance to use it before relocating. I had to sell the
>Unisaw. I now have much less shop space. I would like to get back into
>woodworking, beginning with smaller projects, and am thinking one of the
>better sliding compound miter saws might be a good 1st saw for my smaller
>setup. I gather they have pretty much replaced radial arm saws, and that
>the good ones can cut 12 inches wide (more, for some) with very good
>accuracy. One question I have is, can you use a stacked dado blade in one
>of these? Most of these saws are 1" arbor, Freud does make a 10" 1" arbor
>dado set. Also, I am currently leaning toward the LS1214L 12" Dual Slide
>Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Anyone have other model suggestions to look
>at, or perhaps other saw types for a small shop? I'm looking for maximum
>versatility & accuracy in a relatively small package.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
Hi again Dan,
Some of the commercial guides are great. Many of us make our own by taking
a 4' (or 8') piece of 1/4" plywood 3 or 4 inches wider then your circular
saw. You then attach with screws a 1" X 1" very straight piece of wood (or
in my case store bought at HD aluminum square tubing) to one side. Run you
saw down the length holding it tight to the 1"X1". And Viola! a perfect
guide for just a few dollars.
As to a biscuit joiner, I suggest you take a look at a Kreg jig instead.
Below is something I posted on another newsgroup. Cheers, JG
Do you really need that type of joiner at all? This type of unit has been
discussed many times on other groups and the result (added strength,
alignment) of adding biscuits to a joint has been assessed in a few magazine
tests.
The executive summary of all of the above is, These units were designed to
join sheet goods like plywood and particle board, not solid wood boards.
They add no additional strength to a joint. However, they are a help in
laying up a table top in that they can help with alignment if the unit cuts
perfect slots and as long as the groove or biscuits are not telegraphed
through to the surface.
I have a semi pro shop and have not used mine in two years.
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> JGS wrote:
>> Hi Dan,
>> I have never used or even seen a dado set on a SCMS. I think a router
>> would
>> be a better solution.
>> I use a SCMS for 80-90% of my cuts. As to sheet goods, many suppliers
>> will
>> cut them to size and when they don't a circular saw with a shop made
>> guide
>> works well. I have a L1013 and think it is great. Cheers, JG
>>
>
> JGS-Thanks for the reply. I had been thinking of the using a dado for a
> specific project where I wanted to use a half lap joint, but by
> coincidence I saw these demonstrated on a DIY network show yesterday
> http://www.beadlock.com/ I think now I'll go with a miter & beadlock or
> biscuits (no biscuit tool at the moment) at this location (table leg to
> top support). I think the beadlocks only go up to 1/2" (why?!?) and the
> stock I'm considering is 3/4, so I may have to spring for a biscuit
> cutter, or use screws from the side.
>
> I do have a nice Hitachi plunge router. Should get a router table.
>
> I understand the Festool (http://www.festoolusa.com/) and Smartguide
> (http://www.eurekazone.org/products/index.html) are good commercial
> guides.
>
> If anyone has any input on biscuit cutters, the saw guides or good router
> tables, please pass them on.
>
> Dan
>
bob wrote:
> Dan,
>
> How are you going to cut sheet stock? I don't know how much space you have
> or the layout, but I would opt for one of the portable table saws that fold
> up and sit in the corner. Maybe in addition to a slider.
>
> Bob
Thanks Bob. I am considering an inexpensive table saw in addition, but
am starting with the CMS since it will do the 1st project, a design I
have in mind for a glass table base.
Dan