I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection. Cabinets wi=
ll be circa 4' tall. Shelves will be approx. 10" wide and 13" deep. Shelv=
es are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?) sliding shelves held in grooves approxi=
mately 1" apart vertically. Obviously there will not be a shelf ever 1", b=
ut the ability to adjust shelves within a 1" increment.
Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the repetitive dado pa=
ttern with a router. BTW, these will not be furniture quality cabinets, st=
rictly for storage and retrieval of collection. Will be using 3/4" particl=
e board with real wood face frame so the grooves don't chip out.
All comments and help very appreciated.
Ivan Vegvary
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 20:21:44 -0800 (PST), Ivan Vegvary
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Will be using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the grooves don't chip out.
>
>> All comments and help very appreciated.
>
>> Ivan Vegvary
>
>Thanks to everyone for the good advice. I'll make the jig and route all the verticals in one pass before cutting them out of the full sheet of particle board.
>For those that are confused re purpose:
>The sheets of music will be stored flat. If I stack it all up, I have approximately 12 feet of music. They will all be sorted by instrument, genre, type and alphabetically within the above groups. A few groupings will be less than an inch high while some of them will be 15-20 inches high, e.g., songs that start with the letter "I". I'm able to retrieve about 3" of music before I stain my wrist or damage the sheets. Ergo, at some point I might have an 1-1/2" stack whereby I will slide the next shelf in approx. an inch above, leaving room for finger tips. THE SHELVES WILL ALL BE REMOVABLE AT ALL TIMES". In fact, if I want access to a certain section I will slide the shelf out with all the music thereon. This is a lot kinder to the music although it puts wear and stress on the grooves.
>This storage system will always be in flux, since, if I find another 1 ft. stack at a garage sale, they will all be sorted, alphabetized, added to my database and interleaved with the existing music. Therefore, all the music might have to shift around after a significant purchase, or sale.
>
>Hope that explains the use, thanks again for the great advice.
I think the best advice would be to keep them in a file cabinet under
pressure. Open sheets of paper will collect moisture and wrinkle,
increasing storage space and decreasing legibility. I keep my
sandpaper in packs under pressure, too, as it tends to do the same
thing.
--
You can either hold yourself up to the unrealistic standards of others,
or ignore them and concentrate on being happy with yourself as you are.
-- Jeph Jacques
On Dec 26, 1:48=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/26/2012 8:32 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
> > All common occurrences on our gigs, but still no sheet music, or lead
> > sheets for that matter. Age helps in that regard; we've all played
> > many hundreds of tunes in a wide variety of genres, and each of them
> > in several keys it seems (comes with the territory when playing with
> > vocalists). But beyond the experience, we all grew up at a time when
> > authentic-sounding arrangements were simply unavailable as sheet
> > music. If you wanted to play a song you had to learn it by ear. These
> > days a "rehearsal" consists of a round of "Reply to all" emails and an
> > mp3. Each guy learns his part, with the expectation that the key will
> > likely be adjusted at the gig to suit the vocalist.
>
> Most gigging musicians I know play in many more than one band, many
> times hired for single gig by someone who flies in from out of town, or
> vice versa =A0... being able to read/play from charts, for both music and
> arrangements, is an absolute *requirement* to make it in that world ...
> different world entirely than playing in a local band.
Sure, there are different circumstances. I was playing with three
rather different groups at one point myself. While my chops are merely
average, I am unusually adept at playing tunes I don't know, a quirk
that has served me well over the years. On a number of occasions I
have had to call out changes to a band full of superior musicians, and
have played along to songs I have never actually heard.
The original comment was about "sheet music" rather than charts, and
was intended to be humorous; highlighting the different approaches
people apply to their music. And yes, in certain situations even the
dreaded sheet music may be required.
I still think it may be carcinogenic though. :)
Ivan Vegvary <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection.
> Cabinets will be circa 4' tall. Shelves will be approx. 10" wide and
> 13" deep. Shelves are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?) sliding shelves
> held in grooves approximately 1" apart vertically. Obviously there
> will not be a shelf ever 1", but the ability to adjust shelves within
> a 1" increment.
>
> Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the repetitive
> dado pattern with a router. BTW, these will not be furniture quality
> cabinets, strictly for storage and retrieval of collection. Will be
> using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the grooves
> don't chip out.
>
> All comments and help very appreciated.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
If you have shelves every 1 or 1 1/2" apart, it'll keep your stacks of
music much shorter. Short stacks are easier to sort through, even when
organized. With a shelf of around 1/8" thickness dadoed on 3 sides, I'm
fairly certain it'll support the weight easily.
In building the cabinet, I'd cut the dadoes first then cut the sides
apart. That way, the grooves will line up perfectly and there's less
repositioning of the jig.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On Monday, December 24, 2012 8:50:57 PM UTC-8, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection. Cabinets will be circa 4' tall. Shelves will be approx. 10" wide and 13" deep. Shelves are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?) sliding shelves [in slots]
> Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the repetitive dado pattern with a router.
Router bits have one or two edges, get hot, and don't clear the chips quickly.
A saw blade with forty carbide edges clears the chips quickly and
cools well.
So I'd recommend against routing, use a sled and table saw instead.
The 'jig' is just a 1/8" diameter dowel or nail stub in a hole in the miter fence.
On Dec 25, 10:12=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/25/2012 8:49 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> \
>
> > Oh and by the way, what is this "sheet music" thing you speak of? :)
>
> It was originally designed to make lead guitar players turn down their am=
ps.
I may have to find some then.
> > [I'm much more musician than woodworker, tallying perhaps 2000 gigs in
> > my 40-year part-time "career". Still waiting for that first piece of
> > sheet music though. About the closest I came was a "lead sheet" for
> > the usual wedding recessional provided generously by our bandleader at
> > the time. It was a ragged-edged 3" x 8" scrap, a twelfth-generation
> > Xerox of a Fake Book page. There were exactly three single staves,
> > along with a decade of cocktail-hour food stains and several
> > permutations of rewritten chord changes that had accumulated as it
> > passed through various musicians' hands. ]
>
> Not a jazz/swing bass player, eh? They are great for music that is other
> than three chords, with a minor, or VI/II/V/I turn around, thrown in
> and/or when a guest singer sits-in and has no idea what a key is.
All common occurrences on our gigs, but still no sheet music, or lead
sheets for that matter. Age helps in that regard; we've all played
many hundreds of tunes in a wide variety of genres, and each of them
in several keys it seems (comes with the territory when playing with
vocalists). But beyond the experience, we all grew up at a time when
authentic-sounding arrangements were simply unavailable as sheet
music. If you wanted to play a song you had to learn it by ear. These
days a "rehearsal" consists of a round of "Reply to all" emails and an
mp3. Each guy learns his part, with the expectation that the key will
likely be adjusted at the gig to suit the vocalist.
> Just ask any bass player, arguably the only player in the band who must
> instantly, and magically, know ALL the changes to a song, and in any key.
True enough, but our bassist uses no charts, and looks to me for the
tricky parts when we pull a request out of the air on a gig. By
contrast, he's much better at remembering the overall arrangement:
tempo, how many verses, choruses, bars of outro, etc.
> IOW, when the last time you saw a bass capo? =A0;)
I've heard rumors of a bass player that used one, but it's hard to
imagine how he could show his face among other musicians. Besides, I
detect damned few open-string bass notes from the other side of our
bandstand; given that, what good is a capo?
Will be using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the grooves=
don't chip out.
> All comments and help very appreciated.
> Ivan Vegvary
Thanks to everyone for the good advice. I'll make the jig and route all th=
e verticals in one pass before cutting them out of the full sheet of partic=
le board.
For those that are confused re purpose:
The sheets of music will be stored flat. If I stack it all up, I have appr=
oximately 12 feet of music. They will all be sorted by instrument, genre, =
type and alphabetically within the above groups. A few groupings will be l=
ess than an inch high while some of them will be 15-20 inches high, e.g., s=
ongs that start with the letter "I". I'm able to retrieve about 3" of musi=
c before I stain my wrist or damage the sheets. Ergo, at some point I migh=
t have an 1-1/2" stack whereby I will slide the next shelf in approx. an in=
ch above, leaving room for finger tips. THE SHELVES WILL ALL BE REMOVABLE =
AT ALL TIMES". In fact, if I want access to a certain section I will slide=
the shelf out with all the music thereon. This is a lot kinder to the mus=
ic although it puts wear and stress on the grooves. =20
This storage system will always be in flux, since, if I find another 1 ft. =
stack at a garage sale, they will all be sorted, alphabetized, added to my =
database and interleaved with the existing music. Therefore, all the music=
might have to shift around after a significant purchase, or sale.
Hope that explains the use, thanks again for the great advice.
Ivan Vegvary
"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection.
> Cabinets will be circa 4' tall. Shelves will be approx. 10"
> wide and 13" deep. Shelves are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?)
> sliding shelves held in grooves approximately 1" apart vertically.
> Obviously there will not be a shelf ever 1", but the ability
> to adjust shelves within a 1" increment.
> Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the
> repetitive dado pattern with a router. BTW, these will
> not be furniture quality cabinets, strictly for storage
> and retrieval of collection. Will be using 3/4" particle
> board with real wood face frame so the grooves don't chip out.
> All comments and help very appreciated.
> Ivan Vegvary
...
First, in answer to your question the solution given by -MIKE-
is the correct one. As to "imprecison" the only "imprecision"
present will possibly be in a fractional difference - 1.12 inches
say as against 1.000 inches in the spaces between each and every
groove.
However as you don't need to run the grooves right down to the
bottom in any case - as you say you won't have any sheet
music at less than 1 inch - providing you start from the top
of each upright - and mark them up as you go - this won't be a
problem. Especially as you say, you're using a real wood face
so as to cover the grooves.
This latter isn't strictly necessary as you could instead stop
the grooves say 1 inch from the front although this would mean
cutting a corresponding 1 inch notch on the sides of each shelf
at the front so they would fit flush.
As you say there won't ever be a 1 inch shelf, I'm assuming you
intend to store the music vertically and not horizontally
i.e laying flat.
But then as the projected cabinets are only 4 ft tall and the
majority of the sheet music in your collection, when measured
will presumably fall between 9 inches and 18 inches high its
questionable to me at least what benefit having adjustable shelving
will offer you. In other words how many combinations of useful
shelf heights - in sheet music terms - are achievable in
4 ft high cabinets to start with.
Rather than making the cabinets to suit what you already have.
Three general observations about adjustable shelving, which
may or may not be true.
In general adjustable shelving in cabinet form - as against
wall bracket shelving - appeals most to people who can't make
their own cabinets to suit.
Once assembled most adjustable shelving is never altered.
I've got no experience of shelving sheet music but plenty
of shelving books. It doesn't matter how adjustable your
shelving may be in theory, it will never solve the perennial
problem of never being able to shelve vastly different sized
books - (or sheet music) on or by the same subject or author
(or genre or composer) right next to one another.
michael adams
...
On 12/25/2012 8:49 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
\
> Oh and by the way, what is this "sheet music" thing you speak of? :)
It was originally designed to make lead guitar players turn down their amps.
> [I'm much more musician than woodworker, tallying perhaps 2000 gigs in
> my 40-year part-time "career". Still waiting for that first piece of
> sheet music though. About the closest I came was a "lead sheet" for
> the usual wedding recessional provided generously by our bandleader at
> the time. It was a ragged-edged 3" x 8" scrap, a twelfth-generation
> Xerox of a Fake Book page. There were exactly three single staves,
> along with a decade of cocktail-hour food stains and several
> permutations of rewritten chord changes that had accumulated as it
> passed through various musicians' hands. ]
Not a jazz/swing bass player, eh? They are great for music that is other
than three chords, with a minor, or VI/II/V/I turn around, thrown in
and/or when a guest singer sits-in and has no idea what a key is.
Just ask any bass player, arguably the only player in the band who must
instantly, and magically, know ALL the changes to a song, and in any key.
IOW, when the last time you saw a bass capo? ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 12/26/2012 7:02 AM, DanG wrote:
> On 12/25/2012 10:21 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
>> Will be using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the
>> grooves don't chip out.
>>
>>> All comments and help very appreciated.
>>
>>> Ivan Vegvary
>>
>
>> Hope that explains the use, thanks again for the great advice.
>>
>> Ivan Vegvary
>>
> Ivan, make sure to round the back corners on the "shelves" to make it a
> bit easier to install. Also cut a "finger grip" point on the front
> center of the shelves like this, only on the front of each shelf:
> http://scrapbookersinnercircle.com/Scrapbook-Paper-Storage.html
>
> I don't know how tall you are thinking for these units, but I suspect
> you will need a 3/4" top, bottom and center to keep the sides of the
> carcass from spreading.
>
> If you cap the front edges with hardwood, you won't be able to slide the
> shelves in and out. I don't think chip out will be a problem if you
> rout or saw your slots on the entire sheep before cutting out carcass
> sides.
>
Dan, that's not true, what he is doing is capping the front edges so his
case stays nicer longer. The hardwood would have the dado cut into it
too, so that the particle board doesn't wear at the edge.
I would just index a router, put an indexing key that fits the dado in
the tbar fence that you make to guide the router at the distance from
the last dado. So 1" on center? or 1 and 1/8 on center, whatever you
are looking for. This will allow you to have accurate dados that line up
on both sides. Make sure the fence is to the correct side of the entry.
You want the bit to spin and push the router to the fence when cutting,
so it tracks correctly. Doing the opposite the router will wander away
from the fence.
"Ivan Vegvary" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection.
> Cabinets will be circa 4' tall. Shelves will be approx. 10"
> wide and 13" deep. Shelves are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?)
> sliding shelves held in grooves approximately 1" apart vertically.
> Obviously there will not be a shelf ever 1", but the ability
> to adjust shelves within a 1" increment.
> Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the
> repetitive dado pattern with a router. BTW, these will
> not be furniture quality cabinets, strictly for storage
> and retrieval of collection. Will be using 3/4" particle
> board with real wood face frame so the grooves don't chip out.
> All comments and help very appreciated.
> Ivan Vegvary
...
First, in answer to your question the solution given by -MIKE-
is the correct one. As to "imprecison" the only "imprecision"
present will possibly be in a fractional difference - 1.12 inches
say as against 1.000 inches in the spaces between each and every
groove.
However as you don't need to run the grooves right down to the
bottom in any case - as you say you won't have any sheet
music at less than 1 inch - providing you start from the top
of each upright - and mark them up as you go - this won't be a
problem. Especially as you say, you're using a real wood face
so as to cover the grooves.
....
< please ignore the following paragraph. The real wood face bit
confused me as obviously you can't have adjustable shelving
with a stopped groove. Presumably the wood facing is removed
prior to adjustment>
This latter isn't strictly necessary as you could instead stop
the grooves say 1 inch from the front although this would mean
cutting a corresponding 1 inch notch on the sides of each shelf
at the front so they would fit flush.
< /please ignore >
As you say there won't ever be a 1 inch shelf, I'm assuming you
intend to store the music vertically and not horizontally
i.e laying flat.
But then as the projected cabinets are only 4 ft tall and the
majority of the sheet music in your collection, when measured
will presumably fall between 9 inches and 18 inches high its
questionable to me at least what benefit having adjustable shelving
will offer you. In other words how many combinations of useful
shelf heights - in sheet music terms - are achievable in
4 ft high cabinets to start with.
Rather than making the cabinets to suit what you already have.
Three general observations about adjustable shelving, which
may or may not be true.
In general adjustable shelving in cabinet form - as against
wall bracket shelving - appeals most to people who can't make
their own cabinets to suit.
Once assembled most adjustable shelving is never altered.
I've got no experience of shelving sheet music but plenty
of shelving books. It doesn't matter how adjustable your
shelving may be in theory, it will never solve the perennial
problem of never being able to shelve vastly different sized
books - (or sheet music) on or by the same subject or author
(or genre or composer) right next to one another.
michael adams
...
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 08:00:36 -0700, Mike Marlow wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>> I'm not much of a woodworker yet, but I'm having doubts about this
>> method. Wouldn't there be a small amount of imprecision that could sum
>> up to a large amount over the course of a few dozen grooves? And the
>> two uprights have to match each other as well.
>>
If you start at the sam end of each upright (say, from the bottom), any
errors should accumulate in the same direction and result in identical
uprights...
If the grooves are so narrow, a non-router alternative would be the same thin
strip of wood glued into a table saw guide bar (also made of wood). Think of
a simple panel sled. The blade would make a 1/8" groove which could be
widened with a second, slightly offset jig.
-Bruce
>
> Actually, this is a fairly standard way of ensuring proper spacing between
> things. It's the same concept of using one drilled hole to index the next,
> and on and on. You are correct in that the spacing of the guide strip to
> the edge of the groove is critical, and a little trial and error is worth
> the effort before tearing at your good piece of work, but it should work
> rather well once that's done.
>
>> Oh and by the way, what is this "sheet music" thing you speak of? :)
>>
>
> I think it's something those people with violins and like stuff use.
>
>
On Dec 25, 12:33=A0am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/24/12 10:50 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection.
> > Cabinets will be circa 4' tall. =A0Shelves will be approx. 10" wide and
> > 13" deep. =A0Shelves are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?) sliding shelves
> > held in grooves approximately 1" apart vertically. =A0Obviously there
> > will not be a shelf ever 1", but the ability to adjust shelves within
> > a 1" increment.
>
> > Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the repetitive
> > dado pattern with a router. =A0BTW, these will not be furniture quality
> > cabinets, strictly for storage and retrieval of collection. =A0Will be
> > using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the grooves
> > don't chip out.
>
> > All comments and help very appreciated.
>
> > Ivan Vegvary
>
> You make a base for your router that has a 1/8" strip glued to it,
> situated 1" from the slot cutting bit. Once the first slot if cut, the
> slot in the base rides in that first slot, cutting another slot exactly
> 1" from the first. Continue in each consecutive slot cut.
I'm not much of a woodworker yet, but I'm having doubts about this
method. Wouldn't there be a small amount of imprecision that could sum
up to a large amount over the course of a few dozen grooves? And the
two uprights have to match each other as well.
Oh and by the way, what is this "sheet music" thing you speak of? :)
[I'm much more musician than woodworker, tallying perhaps 2000 gigs in
my 40-year part-time "career". Still waiting for that first piece of
sheet music though. About the closest I came was a "lead sheet" for
the usual wedding recessional provided generously by our bandleader at
the time. It was a ragged-edged 3" x 8" scrap, a twelfth-generation
Xerox of a Fake Book page. There were exactly three single staves,
along with a decade of cocktail-hour food stains and several
permutations of rewritten chord changes that had accumulated as it
passed through various musicians' hands. ]
On 12/24/12 10:50 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection.
> Cabinets will be circa 4' tall. Shelves will be approx. 10" wide and
> 13" deep. Shelves are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?) sliding shelves
> held in grooves approximately 1" apart vertically. Obviously there
> will not be a shelf ever 1", but the ability to adjust shelves within
> a 1" increment.
>
> Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the repetitive
> dado pattern with a router. BTW, these will not be furniture quality
> cabinets, strictly for storage and retrieval of collection. Will be
> using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the grooves
> don't chip out.
>
> All comments and help very appreciated.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
You make a base for your router that has a 1/8" strip glued to it,
situated 1" from the slot cutting bit. Once the first slot if cut, the
slot in the base rides in that first slot, cutting another slot exactly
1" from the first. Continue in each consecutive slot cut.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Greg Guarino wrote:
> I'm not much of a woodworker yet, but I'm having doubts about this
> method. Wouldn't there be a small amount of imprecision that could sum
> up to a large amount over the course of a few dozen grooves? And the
> two uprights have to match each other as well.
>
Actually, this is a fairly standard way of ensuring proper spacing between
things. It's the same concept of using one drilled hole to index the next,
and on and on. You are correct in that the spacing of the guide strip to
the edge of the groove is critical, and a little trial and error is worth
the effort before tearing at your good piece of work, but it should work
rather well once that's done.
> Oh and by the way, what is this "sheet music" thing you speak of? :)
>
I think it's something those people with violins and like stuff use.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On Dec 25, 12:33 am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 12/24/12 10:50 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection.
>>> Cabinets will be circa 4' tall. Shelves will be approx. 10" wide and
>>> 13" deep. Shelves are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?) sliding shelves
>>> held in grooves approximately 1" apart vertically. Obviously there
>>> will not be a shelf ever 1", but the ability to adjust shelves
>>> within a 1" increment.
>>
>>> Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the repetitive
>>> dado pattern with a router. BTW, these will not be furniture quality
>>> cabinets, strictly for storage and retrieval of collection. Will be
>>> using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the grooves
>>> don't chip out.
>>
>>> All comments and help very appreciated.
>>
>>> Ivan Vegvary
>>
>> You make a base for your router that has a 1/8" strip glued to it,
>> situated 1" from the slot cutting bit. Once the first slot if cut,
>> the slot in the base rides in that first slot, cutting another slot
>> exactly 1" from the first. Continue in each consecutive slot cut.
>
> I'm not much of a woodworker yet, but I'm having doubts about this
> method. Wouldn't there be a small amount of imprecision that could sum
> up to a large amount over the course of a few dozen grooves?
Nope.
> And the two uprights have to match each other as well.
That's why you cut the grooves across the sheet before you cut the sheet
into uprights. Even if you don't and even if there is a variation in the
grooves the worst that will happen is that the shelves will be slightly -
emphasize, slightly - less than level. No big thing.
> Oh and by the way, what is this "sheet music" thing you speak of? :)
Perhaps you know them as "charts".
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 12/25/12 8:49 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On Dec 25, 12:33 am, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 12/24/12 10:50 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection.
>>> Cabinets will be circa 4' tall. Shelves will be approx. 10" wide and
>>> 13" deep. Shelves are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?) sliding shelves
>>> held in grooves approximately 1" apart vertically. Obviously there
>>> will not be a shelf ever 1", but the ability to adjust shelves within
>>> a 1" increment.
>>
>>> Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the repetitive
>>> dado pattern with a router. BTW, these will not be furniture quality
>>> cabinets, strictly for storage and retrieval of collection. Will be
>>> using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the grooves
>>> don't chip out.
>>
>>> All comments and help very appreciated.
>>
>>> Ivan Vegvary
>>
>> You make a base for your router that has a 1/8" strip glued to it,
>> situated 1" from the slot cutting bit. Once the first slot if cut, the
>> slot in the base rides in that first slot, cutting another slot exactly
>> 1" from the first. Continue in each consecutive slot cut.
>
> I'm not much of a woodworker yet, but I'm having doubts about this
> method. Wouldn't there be a small amount of imprecision that could sum
> up to a large amount over the course of a few dozen grooves? And the
> two uprights have to match each other as well.
google "box joint router jig" and you'll see some illustration of the
kind of thing I'm talking about. Like these...
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21338
http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html
Same concept, can be modified for cutting repeated dadoes at equal
spacing.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 06:49:30 -0800, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I'm not much of a woodworker yet, but I'm having doubts about this
> method. Wouldn't there be a small amount of imprecision that could sum
> up to a large amount over the course of a few dozen grooves? And the two
> uprights have to match each other as well.
If you cut the first groove across all uprights at once, either while
they're all one piece or with an edge guide on the router, you'll have an
identical starting point on all uprights. If your spacing interval is
off a mite it won't matter as all uprights will have the same accumulated
error.
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
In article <[email protected]>,
Ivan Vegvary <[email protected]> wrote:
>I will be making 4 cabinets to hold my sheet music collection. Cabinets
>will be circa 4' tall. Shelves will be approx. 10" wide and 13" deep.
>Shelves are to be thin Masonite (1/8" ?) sliding shelves held in grooves
>approximately 1" apart vertically. Obviously there will not be a shelf
>ever 1", but the ability to adjust shelves within a 1" increment.
>
>Question: What would be a nice jig / setup to create the repetitive dado
>pattern with a router. BTW, these will not be furniture quality
>cabinets, strictly for storage and retrieval of collection. Will be
>using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the grooves don't
>chip out.
>
>All comments and help very appreciated.
>
>Ivan Vegvary
If I was cutting 1/8" grooves I would use a tablesaw, probably with a sled
of some kind. But to answer your question, it wouldnt be hard to make a
baseplate fixture for your router that indexes off the first groove,
and cuts the next 1 inch further away,
--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On 12/25/2012 10:21 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> Will be using 3/4" particle board with real wood face frame so the grooves don't chip out.
>
>> All comments and help very appreciated.
>
>> Ivan Vegvary
>
> Hope that explains the use, thanks again for the great advice.
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
Ivan, make sure to round the back corners on the "shelves" to make it a
bit easier to install. Also cut a "finger grip" point on the front
center of the shelves like this, only on the front of each shelf:
http://scrapbookersinnercircle.com/Scrapbook-Paper-Storage.html
I don't know how tall you are thinking for these units, but I suspect
you will need a 3/4" top, bottom and center to keep the sides of the
carcass from spreading.
If you cap the front edges with hardwood, you won't be able to slide the
shelves in and out. I don't think chip out will be a problem if you
rout or saw your slots on the entire sheep before cutting out carcass sides.
--
___________________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven
On Tue, 25 Dec 2012 12:26:12 -0500, "dadiOH" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>That's why you cut the grooves across the sheet before you cut the sheet
>into uprights.
And if you have two boards (one for each side) join them together
temporarily so they come out perfectly even.
On 12/26/2012 8:32 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> All common occurrences on our gigs, but still no sheet music, or lead
> sheets for that matter. Age helps in that regard; we've all played
> many hundreds of tunes in a wide variety of genres, and each of them
> in several keys it seems (comes with the territory when playing with
> vocalists). But beyond the experience, we all grew up at a time when
> authentic-sounding arrangements were simply unavailable as sheet
> music. If you wanted to play a song you had to learn it by ear. These
> days a "rehearsal" consists of a round of "Reply to all" emails and an
> mp3. Each guy learns his part, with the expectation that the key will
> likely be adjusted at the gig to suit the vocalist.
Most gigging musicians I know play in many more than one band, many
times hired for single gig by someone who flies in from out of town, or
vice versa ... being able to read/play from charts, for both music and
arrangements, is an absolute *requirement* to make it in that world ...
different world entirely than playing in a local band.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
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