Hello everyone,
As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase. We went
to a furniture store that does custom building using various
components and options...we have absolutely no experience in this so
we relied on the owner's expertise as to dimensions, etc.
The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64". The top shelf is
therefore fixed and open. There are 3 moveable shelves. We wanted it
deeper to accomodate some atlases but were advised against wasting the
space and additional expense for a couple of volumes which could
reside on the top open shelf. So, at the owner's recommendation, we
went with 12.5" deep.
It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened. I called the furniture
store and was told that the bookcase is not deep enough to support its
height with those doors, and that I must bolt it to the wall. I was
told this is a common practice and that surely, I understood this
before I ordered it. Unfortunately, it never even occurred to me that
a bookcase couldn't stand on its own four feet, and we're not in an
earthquake prone area so it's not something we think about. If we
have to bolt it to a wall, we can't put it in the room where we want
it.
Am I just terribly dim? Does everybody but me know that you have to
bolt bookcases to walls, and therefore, the owner had no reason to
mention this fact to me? Would it be adequately stable if the depth
were greater, or is it a hopeless cause?
I appreciate any input you have to offer. thanks,
Lily
Phisherman <[email protected]> writes:
> Get a connector plate with 2 holes in it. Determine where (just above
> the bookcase top) a stud is behind the wall and mark the wall and
> bookcase. Move the bookcase away from the wall and screw the
> connector plate into the top of the bookcase back such that half of
> the connector plate extends above the bookcase top. Move the bookcase
> back against the wall, lining up where you marked the stud location,
> and drive a screw through he connector plate into the wall. Your
> bookcase won't tip over (and is earthquake secure.) HTH
The last parenthetical point is not necessarily true. The
"authorities" recommend against rigid connection in earth-
quake country. Rigid connections are prone to breaking
whereas you want something that will "go with the flow".
And, BTW, everywhere is earthquake country. It's just
more likely in some areas than others.
In article <[email protected]>, Phisherman
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I had to put a couple "shims" in front of my bookcase. The carpet
> stripping around the perimeter of the room tends to make the bookcase
> tip forward. Filing cabinets should be secured at the top too.
Shimming the front is one option. Cutting a 3/8 x 1-1/2" relief at the
back is another. I favor the relief for any shelves or cabinets that
will be placed against the wall in a carpeted room.
Kevin
If the footprint of the base where it meets the floor is also 32" x
12.5" in order for it to tip to a first approximation the doors must
weigh at least as much as the rest of the bookcase. This seems
unlikely. How far back from the front of the bookcase are the feet?
I have many bookcases in my homes and none are bolted to the wall.
RB
Lily Fern wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase. We went
> to a furniture store that does custom building using various
> components and options...we have absolutely no experience in this so
> we relied on the owner's expertise as to dimensions, etc.
>
> The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
> doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64". The top shelf is
> therefore fixed and open. There are 3 moveable shelves. We wanted it
> deeper to accomodate some atlases but were advised against wasting the
> space and additional expense for a couple of volumes which could
> reside on the top open shelf. So, at the owner's recommendation, we
> went with 12.5" deep.
>
> It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
> will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened. I called the furniture
> store and was told that the bookcase is not deep enough to support its
> height with those doors, and that I must bolt it to the wall. I was
> told this is a common practice and that surely, I understood this
> before I ordered it. Unfortunately, it never even occurred to me that
> a bookcase couldn't stand on its own four feet, and we're not in an
> earthquake prone area so it's not something we think about. If we
> have to bolt it to a wall, we can't put it in the room where we want
> it.
>
> Am I just terribly dim? Does everybody but me know that you have to
> bolt bookcases to walls, and therefore, the owner had no reason to
> mention this fact to me? Would it be adequately stable if the depth
> were greater, or is it a hopeless cause?
>
> I appreciate any input you have to offer. thanks,
> Lily
Lily Fern wrote:
> It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
> will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened. I called the furniture
> store and was told that the bookcase is not deep enough to support its
> height with those doors, and that I must bolt it to the wall. I was
> told this is a common practice and that surely, I understood this
> before I ordered it. Unfortunately, it never even occurred to me that
> a bookcase couldn't stand on its own four feet, and we're not in an
> earthquake prone area so it's not something we think about. If we
> have to bolt it to a wall, we can't put it in the room where we want
> it.
If you have no experience with furniture I can understand you being
unaware of the need to fasten the bookcase to the wall, it it a common
practice though. Teh seller may have had some obligation to tell you
this, but it is arguable. You say that you can't use it in the intended
room if it has to be fastened to the wall, why not? The bookcase will
cover the fasteners. No matter what the walls are made of, some sort of
fastener can be used. If you have a baseboard issue that keeps the
bookshelf from being tight up against the wall use a french cleat to
stabilise it.
Just my thoughts, YMMV.
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
Even commercial chests of drawers are now shipped with anchor straps and
warnings not to use them as stepladders. Have to say that the tack
strip/carpet (sometimes molding) observation is right on target.
"RWM" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I disagree with Mike's belief that you should demand a new bookcase, but
> agree that it would have been nice if they told you during the design
> process that it should be attached to the wall. Every tall bookcase that
I
> have looked at in a furniture store comes with instructions that it must
be
> secured to the wall. Even at 15" deep stability can be a problem. Many
> times the instability has nothing to do with the design, but with the
floors
> & walls in the house. Molding on bottom of the wall, or the nail strip
for
> carpets, can make the bookcase want to tip forward. My suggestion is to
> attach it to the wall.
>
> Bob McBreen - Yarrow Point, WA
>
>
Hi Lily,
Get a connector plate with 2 holes in it. Determine where (just above
the bookcase top) a stud is behind the wall and mark the wall and
bookcase. Move the bookcase away from the wall and screw the
connector plate into the top of the bookcase back such that half of
the connector plate extends above the bookcase top. Move the bookcase
back against the wall, lining up where you marked the stud location,
and drive a screw through he connector plate into the wall. Your
bookcase won't tip over (and is earthquake secure.) HTH
On 20 Jan 2004 10:40:13 -0800, [email protected] (Lily Fern) wrote:
>Hello everyone,
>
>As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase. We went
>to a furniture store that does custom building using various
>components and options...we have absolutely no experience in this so
>we relied on the owner's expertise as to dimensions, etc.
>
>The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
>doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64". The top shelf is
>therefore fixed and open. There are 3 moveable shelves. We wanted it
>deeper to accomodate some atlases but were advised against wasting the
>space and additional expense for a couple of volumes which could
>reside on the top open shelf. So, at the owner's recommendation, we
>went with 12.5" deep.
>
>It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
>will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened. I called the furniture
>store and was told that the bookcase is not deep enough to support its
>height with those doors, and that I must bolt it to the wall. I was
>told this is a common practice and that surely, I understood this
>before I ordered it. Unfortunately, it never even occurred to me that
>a bookcase couldn't stand on its own four feet, and we're not in an
>earthquake prone area so it's not something we think about. If we
>have to bolt it to a wall, we can't put it in the room where we want
>it.
>
>Am I just terribly dim? Does everybody but me know that you have to
>bolt bookcases to walls, and therefore, the owner had no reason to
>mention this fact to me? Would it be adequately stable if the depth
>were greater, or is it a hopeless cause?
>
>I appreciate any input you have to offer. thanks,
>Lily
On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 04:01:22 GMT, Kevin Craig <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, Phisherman
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I had to put a couple "shims" in front of my bookcase. The carpet
>> stripping around the perimeter of the room tends to make the bookcase
>> tip forward. Filing cabinets should be secured at the top too.
>
>Shimming the front is one option. Cutting a 3/8 x 1-1/2" relief at the
>back is another. I favor the relief for any shelves or cabinets that
>will be placed against the wall in a carpeted room.
>
>Kevin
Although if you ever move it to a room with hardwood instead of carpet,
it's a lot easier to undo shimming the front than it is to undo the =
relief
cut.
Davis Eichelberger
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I built a bookcase without doors that is almost the same dimensions as you
> state (mine was 80" H x 36" wide x 12.5" deep). It has absolutely no
> stability issues whatsoever. I have a LOT of books in it, as well as some
> crystal items, etc. and it doesn't wobble or tilt or anything.
>
> I did a very quick look at a few furniture websites and every bookcase I
> found that was over 72" tall that had doors was at least 15" deep. This
> isn't comprehensive by any means, but it sounds to me like your furniture
> maker should have known enough to make the case deeper to accomodate the
> weight of the open doors.
>
> I for one would never expect to HAVE to attach a piece of furniture to a
> wall. It's a good idea if you have young children or something, but I
can't
> see it as a common practice that you would have assumed.
>
> If I were you, I'd demand they make me a new one, stop payment on the
check
> if possible and take the item back.
>
> Mike
<SNIP>
I disagree with Mike's belief that you should demand a new bookcase, but
agree that it would have been nice if they told you during the design
process that it should be attached to the wall. Every tall bookcase that I
have looked at in a furniture store comes with instructions that it must be
secured to the wall. Even at 15" deep stability can be a problem. Many
times the instability has nothing to do with the design, but with the floors
& walls in the house. Molding on bottom of the wall, or the nail strip for
carpets, can make the bookcase want to tip forward. My suggestion is to
attach it to the wall.
Bob McBreen - Yarrow Point, WA
Make sure that if the bookcase is on carpet that you load it with books
BEFORE you attached it to the wall; it make all the difference in the world
in regard to its' stability. I'm in Southern California so I must attach
just about everything that might tip in an earthquake, but it should be a
standard practice wherever you are.
manzanar
"Lily Fern" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello everyone,
>
> As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase.
Go with the flow and attach it to the wall. Not that difficult
a task. Make sure the point(s) on the wall you attach it to
are studs, not drywall. Attach it "high" (a little below the
top, not near or below the middle).
I won't judge your ability or inability to have known of this
possibility -- or the fellow that made it advising you
beforehand's letting you know. But something with a 12.5:80
depth:height ratio, with doors that stand out an additional
16", will be unstable. Period.
Jim Stuyck -- BSME long ago, when the earth's crust was still cooling
"Lily Fern" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello everyone,
>
> As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase. We went
> to a furniture store that does custom building using various
> components and options...we have absolutely no experience in this so
> we relied on the owner's expertise as to dimensions, etc.
>
> The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
> doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64". The top shelf is
> therefore fixed and open. There are 3 moveable shelves. We wanted it
> deeper to accomodate some atlases but were advised against wasting the
> space and additional expense for a couple of volumes which could
> reside on the top open shelf. So, at the owner's recommendation, we
> went with 12.5" deep.
>
> It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
> will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened. I called the furniture
> store and was told that the bookcase is not deep enough to support its
> height with those doors, and that I must bolt it to the wall. I was
> told this is a common practice and that surely, I understood this
> before I ordered it. Unfortunately, it never even occurred to me that
> a bookcase couldn't stand on its own four feet, and we're not in an
> earthquake prone area so it's not something we think about. If we
> have to bolt it to a wall, we can't put it in the room where we want
> it.
>
> Am I just terribly dim? Does everybody but me know that you have to
> bolt bookcases to walls, and therefore, the owner had no reason to
> mention this fact to me? Would it be adequately stable if the depth
> were greater, or is it a hopeless cause?
>
> I appreciate any input you have to offer. thanks,
> Lily
[email protected] (Lily Fern) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
> doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64".
> It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
> will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened.
OK, first off check that it's not leaning forward when the doors
are closed. It's common when carpet is installed to fold the
edge under at the wall, which makes the carpet thicker there
(and causes anything set against the wall to tilt away from it).
If this is the case you can try shimming under the front to get
the bookcase to set level or lean back a tad toward the wall.
If it's level and still tips forwards, then you've basically
got the choice of fastening it to the wall, or making it
heavy enough low enough to keep the center of gravity behind
the doors. If books in the bottom won't work, you could
try a couple of lead bricks (try a marine supply store,
you're looking for "ballast" quite literally).
John
[email protected] (Lily Fern) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> 3) the bookcase is loaded down with heavy books on the bottom 2
> shelves, AND we have it tilted slightly backwards until we resolve
> this. (It came with 2 leveling feet in the front.) I don't know the
> exact angle, but it's about 1 inch closer to the wall at the top than
> the bottom. Yet even with it tilted backwards, it tilts forward a good
> half inch when the doors are opened. So yes, it would definitely have
> to be secured in some way.
Wow - those must be very heavy doors. I wonder if it would be
possible to replace the glass with lucite or some other plastic,
and reduce the weight, thus improving stability.
John
"John McCoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (Lily Fern) wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
> > doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64".
>
> > It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
> > will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened.
>
> OK, first off check that it's not leaning forward when the doors
> are closed. It's common when carpet is installed to fold the
> edge under at the wall, which makes the carpet thicker there
> (and causes anything set against the wall to tilt away from it).
Good point...or a "tack strip" making the bookcase lean forward,
in which case the bookcase is too close to the wall.
Jim Stuyck
John McCoy wrote:
> [email protected] (Lily Fern) wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>3) the bookcase is loaded down with heavy books on the bottom 2
>>shelves, AND we have it tilted slightly backwards until we resolve
>>this. (It came with 2 leveling feet in the front.) I don't know the
>>exact angle, but it's about 1 inch closer to the wall at the top than
>>the bottom. Yet even with it tilted backwards, it tilts forward a good
>>half inch when the doors are opened. So yes, it would definitely have
>>to be secured in some way.
Have you considered a french cleat? Basically you get a couple of
boards (I have used planed down 2x4s in my shop) and cut a 45 degree
miter down the length of one side of each. That way, they "nest" in
each other along the length. Screw one to the wall, the other to the
bookcase (unloaded) and lift the bookcase until it engages. I used
this method on my clamp rack which holds a lot of weight and it works
like a charm. You can also use multiple cleats. Here's one person's
writeup on french cleats......
www.benchmark.20m.com/plans/FrenchCleat.pdf
> Wow - those must be very heavy doors. I wonder if it would be
> possible to replace the glass with lucite or some other plastic,
> and reduce the weight, thus improving stability.
>
> John
Frankly, the store SHOULD have mentioned this.
Don't know of any fix other than returning and getting something
deeper OR fasten it to the wall
John
On 20 Jan 2004 10:40:13 -0800, [email protected] (Lily Fern) wrote:
>Hello everyone,
>
>As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase. We went
>to a furniture store that does custom building using various
>components and options...we have absolutely no experience in this so
>we relied on the owner's expertise as to dimensions, etc.
>
>The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
>doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64". The top shelf is
>therefore fixed and open. There are 3 moveable shelves. We wanted it
>deeper to accomodate some atlases but were advised against wasting the
>space and additional expense for a couple of volumes which could
>reside on the top open shelf. So, at the owner's recommendation, we
>went with 12.5" deep.
>
>It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
>will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened. I called the furniture
>store and was told that the bookcase is not deep enough to support its
>height with those doors, and that I must bolt it to the wall. I was
>told this is a common practice and that surely, I understood this
>before I ordered it. Unfortunately, it never even occurred to me that
>a bookcase couldn't stand on its own four feet, and we're not in an
>earthquake prone area so it's not something we think about. If we
>have to bolt it to a wall, we can't put it in the room where we want
>it.
>
>Am I just terribly dim? Does everybody but me know that you have to
>bolt bookcases to walls, and therefore, the owner had no reason to
>mention this fact to me? Would it be adequately stable if the depth
>were greater, or is it a hopeless cause?
>
>I appreciate any input you have to offer. thanks,
>Lily
Gosh...thanks for all your speedy and thoughtful replies! I think
it's clear that we can't expect a bookcase of these dimensions to be
free standing. In answer to some questions, in no particular order:
1) the bookcase is already pulled away from the wall because there is
indeed a nailing strip or something under the carpet along the edge,
which caused it to fall forward even with doors closed. (I don't mean
"tilt" forward, I mean fall over.) this strip is about 4 inches wide,
which means whatever we'd use to attach would have to be that long.
2) As renters we have to get approval to do such things...which has
not been easy in the past. So we'd prefer a free standing bookcase,
which is what we thought we were buying since nothing we looked at in
the shop was bolted to the walls. However, we didn't see this
particular configuration...we were just told it would work.
3) the bookcase is loaded down with heavy books on the bottom 2
shelves, AND we have it tilted slightly backwards until we resolve
this. (It came with 2 leveling feet in the front.) I don't know the
exact angle, but it's about 1 inch closer to the wall at the top than
the bottom. Yet even with it tilted backwards, it tilts forward a good
half inch when the doors are opened. So yes, it would definitely have
to be secured in some way.
Meanwhile, I've had a discussion with the owner of the shop who has
admitted that this particular bookcase was not designed to accomodate
these doors, and that we probably should have been warned it would not
be free standing...she just didn't realize it would be a problem for
us. So we've been given the option of replacing it with a 60" high
12.5" or an 80" high 16", with us paying any additional cost if we
take the deeper one.
thanks again for your help!
:-) Lily
> The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
> doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64". The top shelf is
> therefore fixed and open. There are 3 moveable shelves.
>
> It's very unstable!
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 03:59:31 GMT, <[email protected]> wrote:
>Make sure that if the bookcase is on carpet that you load it with books
>BEFORE you attached it to the wall; it make all the difference in the world
>in regard to its' stability. I'm in Southern California so I must attach
>just about everything that might tip in an earthquake, but it should be a
>standard practice wherever you are.
>
>manzanar
>
>"Lily Fern" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase.
>
I had to put a couple "shims" in front of my bookcase. The carpet
stripping around the perimeter of the room tends to make the bookcase
tip forward. Filing cabinets should be secured at the top too.
"Lily Fern" wrote in message
> Am I just terribly dim? Does everybody but me know that you have to
> bolt bookcases to walls, and therefore, the owner had no reason to
> mention this fact to me? Would it be adequately stable if the depth
> were greater, or is it a hopeless cause?
>
> I appreciate any input you have to offer. thanks,
> Lily
Don't make this into a Federal case. A simple nylon web strap, fastened to
both the wall and the top back of the bookshelf, is all you need in order to
enjoy your purchase.
If you do it properly, the resultant hole in the wall should be no more
objectionable, when you move, than one required to hang a large picture.
You owe it to any children you have to do this with ANY tall, shallow
bookshelves in any event .. it is just plain commonsense if you have, or
expect to have, children in a house at any time.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04
I built a bookcase without doors that is almost the same dimensions as you
state (mine was 80" H x 36" wide x 12.5" deep). It has absolutely no
stability issues whatsoever. I have a LOT of books in it, as well as some
crystal items, etc. and it doesn't wobble or tilt or anything.
I did a very quick look at a few furniture websites and every bookcase I
found that was over 72" tall that had doors was at least 15" deep. This
isn't comprehensive by any means, but it sounds to me like your furniture
maker should have known enough to make the case deeper to accomodate the
weight of the open doors.
I for one would never expect to HAVE to attach a piece of furniture to a
wall. It's a good idea if you have young children or something, but I can't
see it as a common practice that you would have assumed.
If I were you, I'd demand they make me a new one, stop payment on the check
if possible and take the item back.
Mike
"Lily Fern" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello everyone,
>
> As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase. We went
> to a furniture store that does custom building using various
> components and options...we have absolutely no experience in this so
> we relied on the owner's expertise as to dimensions, etc.
>
> The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
> doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64". The top shelf is
> therefore fixed and open. There are 3 moveable shelves. We wanted it
> deeper to accomodate some atlases but were advised against wasting the
> space and additional expense for a couple of volumes which could
> reside on the top open shelf. So, at the owner's recommendation, we
> went with 12.5" deep.
>
> It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
> will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened. I called the furniture
> store and was told that the bookcase is not deep enough to support its
> height with those doors, and that I must bolt it to the wall. I was
> told this is a common practice and that surely, I understood this
> before I ordered it. Unfortunately, it never even occurred to me that
> a bookcase couldn't stand on its own four feet, and we're not in an
> earthquake prone area so it's not something we think about. If we
> have to bolt it to a wall, we can't put it in the room where we want
> it.
>
> Am I just terribly dim? Does everybody but me know that you have to
> bolt bookcases to walls, and therefore, the owner had no reason to
> mention this fact to me? Would it be adequately stable if the depth
> were greater, or is it a hopeless cause?
>
> I appreciate any input you have to offer. thanks,
> Lily
On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 10:40:13 -0800, Lily Fern wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase. We went to a
> furniture store that does custom building using various components and
> options...we have absolutely no experience in this so we relied on the
> owner's expertise as to dimensions, etc.
>
> The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
> doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64". The top shelf is
> therefore fixed and open. There are 3 moveable shelves. We wanted it
> deeper to accomodate some atlases but were advised against wasting the
> space and additional expense for a couple of volumes which could reside on
> the top open shelf. So, at the owner's recommendation, we went with 12.5"
> deep.
>
> It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it will
> tip forward when the 2 doors are opened. I called the furniture store and
> was told that the bookcase is not deep enough to support its height with
> those doors, and that I must bolt it to the wall. I was told this is a
> common practice and that surely, I understood this before I ordered it.
> Unfortunately, it never even occurred to me that a bookcase couldn't stand
> on its own four feet, and we're not in an earthquake prone area so it's
> not something we think about. If we have to bolt it to a wall, we can't
> put it in the room where we want it.
>
> Am I just terribly dim? Does everybody but me know that you have to bolt
> bookcases to walls, and therefore, the owner had no reason to mention this
> fact to me? Would it be adequately stable if the depth were greater, or
> is it a hopeless cause?
>
> I appreciate any input you have to offer. thanks, Lily
Anchor it to the wall. Kitchen cabinets are anchored, why can't you do
the same for a bookcase, especially one not particularly deep?
Out of curiosity, is it unstable when filled with books or when its
sitting empty and the doors are open? Seems like it should be quite
stable when its full of books.
Lily Fern wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> As a 30th wedding anniversary present, we bought a bookcase. We went
> to a furniture store that does custom building using various
> components and options...we have absolutely no experience in this so
> we relied on the owner's expertise as to dimensions, etc.
>
> The bookcase is maple, 32" Wx80"Hx12.5" deep. It has one set of glass
> doors measuring 60" high which come up to about 64". The top shelf is
> therefore fixed and open. There are 3 moveable shelves. We wanted it
> deeper to accomodate some atlases but were advised against wasting the
> space and additional expense for a couple of volumes which could
> reside on the top open shelf. So, at the owner's recommendation, we
> went with 12.5" deep.
>
> It's very unstable! Even with heavy books on the bottom shelf, it
> will tip forward when the 2 doors are opened. I called the furniture
> store and was told that the bookcase is not deep enough to support its
> height with those doors, and that I must bolt it to the wall. I was
> told this is a common practice and that surely, I understood this
> before I ordered it. Unfortunately, it never even occurred to me that
> a bookcase couldn't stand on its own four feet, and we're not in an
> earthquake prone area so it's not something we think about. If we
> have to bolt it to a wall, we can't put it in the room where we want
> it.
>
> Am I just terribly dim? Does everybody but me know that you have to
> bolt bookcases to walls, and therefore, the owner had no reason to
> mention this fact to me? Would it be adequately stable if the depth
> were greater, or is it a hopeless cause?
>
> I appreciate any input you have to offer. thanks,
> Lily
[email protected] (Lily Fern) writes:
> Gosh...thanks for all your speedy and thoughtful replies! I think
> it's clear that we can't expect a bookcase of these dimensions to be
> free standing. In answer to some questions, in no particular order:
>
> 1) the bookcase is already pulled away from the wall because there is
> indeed a nailing strip or something under the carpet along the edge,
> which caused it to fall forward even with doors closed. (I don't mean
> "tilt" forward, I mean fall over.) this strip is about 4 inches wide,
> which means whatever we'd use to attach would have to be that long.
You also have another possibility: Either modify the feet/side walls
of the book case so that it stays clear of theis four inch strip, or
put some piece of wood with a groove in it under the front part of the
case so that it can stand flush against the wall, i guess with 4
inches distance it looks pretty awful.
Then make the bookcase higher, so that it goes right up to the
ceiling: If the case extension is really rigid its then impossible for
the whole thing to fall over.
I used this solution for bookcases which come up almost to the
ceiling: I just added a piece of wood at the wall side of the case
between the top shelf and the ceiling, and voila: no more tipping over.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
>
> I for one would never expect to HAVE to attach a piece of furniture to a
> wall. It's a good idea if you have young children or something, but I can't
I do. For example all bookcases you can get at IKEA (do you have that
in America also?) come with a short woven belt to attach them to the
wall, even those which mus less problematic dimension.
> see it as a common practice that you would have assumed.
I *do* see it as common practice.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23