I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems to
not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right plugs,
and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire, right?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Tyke wrote:
> The purpose of the breaker is to protect the equipment on the circuit.
>
> If the breaker is too big, then it means the equipment, in this case motor,
> could attempt to run more amps than designed, e.g., when bogged down trying
> to rip 8/4 maple.
>
> The wire is not always the first thing to break when an overload situation
> occurs.
>
> Check if the motor has a thermal overload protection. If it does not, I
> would not recommend using this with a much larger dryer breaker. The motor
> would burn out before the dryer circuit breaker would trip.
>
> The wire for the dryer is lightly to be two conductor and a ground. A
> dedicated circuit for the saw would also use two conductor and a ground type
> of wire.
>
> Dave Paine.
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
> > the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
> > 52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
> > the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems to
> > not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
> > for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
> >
> > Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
> > anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
> > dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right plugs,
> > and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
> > it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
> > bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire, right?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for the help.
> >
CW is a bit more abrupt, but the breaker is to protect the circuit, not
the tool. Any tool protection needed must be done by the breaker on the
tool. Otherwise, ever in-house circuit would need a tiny breaker for
those times when only one light bulb was lit, among other reasons. The
breaker is there to prevent melted cable insulation and the problems
that causes.,,fires.
For clarification, the dryer is in the house and the saw will be in the
garage. I will create a 50' (or less) extension cord out of 12 gauge
romex wire and will probably use wire rated for underground. I am
renting the house so I cannot make modifications to the electric which
is causing a huge problem since there is no 220v in the garage. Safety
is first so I'll do whatever I need to make it safe, or I wont do it.
Final question, I can get a brand new unisaw with 52" fence for $1550
at woodworker's supply. Is there something better about a platinum
edition that makes it better than that saw??
Dan wrote:
> Dan wrote:
> > [email protected] wrote:
> >> I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
> >> the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
> >> 52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
> >> the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems to
> >> not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
> >> for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
> >>
> >> Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
> >> anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
> >> dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right plugs,
> >> and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
> >> it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
> >> bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire, right?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance for the help.
> >>
> >
> > If the saw is as described, that seems like a good price. Look on ebay
> > & see what people are willing to pay. I sold my little used ~3 year old
> > 52" Bies unisaw on ebay because I was moving across the country & got
> > only slightly less than what new ones were going for. AND the guy drove
> > nearly 400 miles to pick it up!
> >
> > Dan
>
>
> Also if the situation is as it sounds (saw & dryer will be in the same
> location) I'd probably install a 2nd box next to the dryer one with the
> correct outlet for the saw. For that matter, you could likely install
> that 2nd box some distance away if needs be. And of course don't run
> both at once! If you're not sure about the electrical part you should
> probably call an electrician though.
>
> Dan
OK, I've been thinkign about this. I know this isn't an electrical
group and there's been lots of discussion on this but I can't seem to
figure it out. Why do you need a bigger cable for longer runs? My first
thought is that there is more resistance so more of a heat buildup. But
the resistance is over a longer distance and the heat buildup would be
over more cable. Wont 1' of wire with 20amps act the same regardless of
if there is 49' attached to it or 9' attached? Wouldn't the resistance
in the 1' section and the heat buildup in that 1' section be the same?
The next question is; if I use 10 AWG from the dryer to the saw, what
happens to the 12 AWG from the breaker to the dryer?
Just some questions I can't seem to figure out.
Brian Elfert wrote:
> "Ron S" <[email protected]> writes:
>
> >For clarification, the dryer is in the house and the saw will be in the
> >garage. I will create a 50' (or less) extension cord out of 12 gauge
> >romex wire and will probably use wire rated for underground. I am
> >renting the house so I cannot make modifications to the electric which
> >is causing a huge problem since there is no 220v in the garage. Safety
> >is first so I'll do whatever I need to make it safe, or I wont do it.
>
> I would do 10 AWG for a 50 foot run personally.
>
> Brian Elfert
Thanks Jack. After I sent the post I realized it had to be the voltage
drop but the link you sent doesn't back that up. For 50' at 12 AWG I
would have a voltage drop of 1.2v and for 10 AWG it would be .7v. I
think a 1.2v drop would be acceptable and a .5v gain by using 10 AWG
seems not to be worth the effort.
Nova wrote:
> Ron S wrote:
> > OK, I've been thinkign about this. I know this isn't an electrical
> > group and there's been lots of discussion on this but I can't seem to
> > figure it out. Why do you need a bigger cable for longer runs? My first
> > thought is that there is more resistance so more of a heat buildup.
>
> It's the voltage drop over the length of the run.
>
> See the voltage drop calculator at:
>
> http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
>
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
"Ron S" <[email protected]> writes:
>For clarification, the dryer is in the house and the saw will be in the
>garage. I will create a 50' (or less) extension cord out of 12 gauge
>romex wire and will probably use wire rated for underground. I am
>renting the house so I cannot make modifications to the electric which
>is causing a huge problem since there is no 220v in the garage. Safety
>is first so I'll do whatever I need to make it safe, or I wont do it.
I would do 10 AWG for a 50 foot run personally.
Brian Elfert
On Thu, 31 Aug 2006 23:18:06 -0400, David Starr
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Tyke wrote:
>> The purpose of the breaker is to protect the equipment on the circuit.
>>
>Not exactly. The purpose of the house circuit breaker is to prevent the
>wire from overheating and causing a fire should a short circuit occur.
What he said.
How would a breaker protect a device if multiple devices are operating
at the same time, on the same circuit?
The purpose of the breaker is to protect the equipment on the circuit.
If the breaker is too big, then it means the equipment, in this case motor,
could attempt to run more amps than designed, e.g., when bogged down trying
to rip 8/4 maple.
The wire is not always the first thing to break when an overload situation
occurs.
Check if the motor has a thermal overload protection. If it does not, I
would not recommend using this with a much larger dryer breaker. The motor
would burn out before the dryer circuit breaker would trip.
The wire for the dryer is lightly to be two conductor and a ground. A
dedicated circuit for the saw would also use two conductor and a ground type
of wire.
Dave Paine.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
> the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
> 52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
> the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems to
> not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
> for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
>
> Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
> anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
> dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right plugs,
> and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
> it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
> bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire, right?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
If it's this one - I'd jump on it
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004WCAO/002-5955272-4879251?n=228013
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-All-Delta_Platinum_Edition_Unisaw_10__tilting_Arbor_Saw_36_955/display_~full_specs
Can't find anything on the 35-957 model.
Bob S.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
> the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
> 52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
> the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems to
> not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
> for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
>
> Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
> anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
> dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right plugs,
> and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
> it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
> bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire, right?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message >
The ad claims it has never been used but it seems to
> not be a newer model.
That's good news, and probably worth a bit more considering the current
value engineering by Delta.
> Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
> for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
If it's in good shape, as advertised, and ALL USA made, jump on it.
> Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
> anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
> dryer?
Sure you can. Check the specs on the saw, but if is 3HP it most likely runs
on a 20 amp circuit and probably uses a 15 AMP NEMA 6-15P plug. Most dryer
circuits would qualifiy ... check the breaker.
Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right plugs,
> and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
> it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right?
Yep. All you need to be in code for the saw is the two hot leads and the
ground. Cap the neutral off in the old receptacle for future use.
Personally, I'd use 10 ga for the extension cord, but that's just me.
Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
> bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire, right?
As long as the saw is indeed 3HP and at least a 20A breaker, you will be
fine ... but do check the specs on the motor because if it is not a 3HP,
that could change.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/29/06
Dan wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
>> the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
>> 52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
>> the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems to
>> not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
>> for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
>>
>> Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
>> anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
>> dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right plugs,
>> and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
>> it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
>> bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire, right?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for the help.
>>
>
> If the saw is as described, that seems like a good price. Look on ebay
> & see what people are willing to pay. I sold my little used ~3 year old
> 52" Bies unisaw on ebay because I was moving across the country & got
> only slightly less than what new ones were going for. AND the guy drove
> nearly 400 miles to pick it up!
>
> Dan
Also if the situation is as it sounds (saw & dryer will be in the same
location) I'd probably install a 2nd box next to the dryer one with the
correct outlet for the saw. For that matter, you could likely install
that 2nd box some distance away if needs be. And of course don't run
both at once! If you're not sure about the electrical part you should
probably call an electrician though.
Dan
[email protected] wrote:
> I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
> the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
> 52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
> the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems to
> not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
> for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
>
> Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
> anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
> dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right plugs,
> and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
> it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
> bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire, right?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
If the saw is as described, that seems like a good price. Look on ebay
& see what people are willing to pay. I sold my little used ~3 year old
52" Bies unisaw on ebay because I was moving across the country & got
only slightly less than what new ones were going for. AND the guy drove
nearly 400 miles to pick it up!
Dan
Ron S wrote:
> OK, I've been thinkign about this. I know this isn't an electrical
> group and there's been lots of discussion on this but I can't seem to
> figure it out. Why do you need a bigger cable for longer runs? My first
> thought is that there is more resistance so more of a heat buildup.
It's the voltage drop over the length of the run.
See the voltage drop calculator at:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
> the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
> 52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
> the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems
> to not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit
> high for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
>
> Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
> anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
> dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right
> plugs, and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and
> I'll make it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the
> breaker is bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right
> wire, right?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
>
That's not a bad price for a complete, as new Unisaw, or even a
moderately new one. Assuming everything that's supposed to be there
actually is. There's no warranty, usually, and you have to haul and
assemble and set it up. A right tilt saw is not a problem.
I'm the wrong fellow to mislead you on the electrical.
I'd check the trunions, and make sure there's no concealed shipping
damage. Those problems weren't unknown over the last five years or so.
Patriarch,
owner of a 4 yr old LT 52" Bies...
Tyke wrote:
> The purpose of the breaker is to protect the equipment on the circuit.
>
Not exactly. The purpose of the house circuit breaker is to prevent the
wire from overheating and causing a fire should a short circuit occur.
US electric code calls for a 15 amp breaker on 14 gage wire, and a 20
amp breaker on 12 gage wire.
The saw should carry its own protection in the form of a thermal
cutout in the saw motor, AND, an alert operator who shuts the saw off
should it stall or begin to smoke and smell bad. One backs up the other.
I would expect such a saw to work well on a 12 gage 20 amp 220 volt
circuit as long as you don't stall the motor during a difficult cut.
David Starr
Wrong.
"Tyke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The purpose of the breaker is to protect the equipment on the circuit.
>
> If the breaker is too big, then it means the equipment, in this case
motor,
> could attempt to run more amps than designed, e.g., when bogged down
trying
> to rip 8/4 maple.
>
> The wire is not always the first thing to break when an overload situation
> occurs.
>
> Check if the motor has a thermal overload protection. If it does not, I
> would not recommend using this with a much larger dryer breaker. The
motor
> would burn out before the dryer circuit breaker would trip.
>
> The wire for the dryer is lightly to be two conductor and a ground. A
> dedicated circuit for the saw would also use two conductor and a ground
type
> of wire.
>
> Dave Paine.
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
> > the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
> > 52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
> > the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems to
> > not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
> > for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
> >
> > Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
> > anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
> > dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right plugs,
> > and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
> > it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
> > bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire, right?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for the help.
> >
>
>
I would go with #10 minimum for 50' of cord for a table saw. If you are
going to the trouble of burying it, why not cpcv conduit first and #8 wire?
Do it right the first time and you'll likely find it was worth while later.
"Ron S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> For clarification, the dryer is in the house and the saw will be in the
> garage. I will create a 50' (or less) extension cord out of 12 gauge
> romex wire and will probably use wire rated for underground. I am
> renting the house so I cannot make modifications to the electric which
> is causing a huge problem since there is no 220v in the garage. Safety
> is first so I'll do whatever I need to make it safe, or I wont do it.
>
> Final question, I can get a brand new unisaw with 52" fence for $1550
> at woodworker's supply. Is there something better about a platinum
> edition that makes it better than that saw??
>
> Dan wrote:
>> Dan wrote:
>> > [email protected] wrote:
>> >> I just saw an ad for a unisaw, either 36-955 or 35-957. I'll find out
>> >> the exact one tonight but it looks like it is a 3hp right tilt with a
>> >> 52" fence. I'm wondering if anyone has information on this model and
>> >> the current worth. The ad claims it has never been used but it seems
>> >> to
>> >> not be a newer model. Asking price is $1200 but that seems a bit high
>> >> for a used saw, even if it's never been "used".
>> >>
>> >> Also, I'm not sure if I want to run a new 220 line for the saw. Does
>> >> anyone know if it would be possible to use the same outlet as the
>> >> dryer? Of course I'll build my own extension cord with the right
>> >> plugs,
>> >> and I'll make sure I tap into the 220v and not the 110v and I'll make
>> >> it 12 gauge. 220 is 220, right? Shouldn't matter if the breaker is
>> >> bigger than the saw needs as long as I use the gauge right wire,
>> >> right?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance for the help.
>> >>
>> >
>> > If the saw is as described, that seems like a good price. Look on ebay
>> > & see what people are willing to pay. I sold my little used ~3 year
>> > old
>> > 52" Bies unisaw on ebay because I was moving across the country & got
>> > only slightly less than what new ones were going for. AND the guy
>> > drove
>> > nearly 400 miles to pick it up!
>> >
>> > Dan
>>
>>
>> Also if the situation is as it sounds (saw & dryer will be in the same
>> location) I'd probably install a 2nd box next to the dryer one with the
>> correct outlet for the saw. For that matter, you could likely install
>> that 2nd box some distance away if needs be. And of course don't run
>> both at once! If you're not sure about the electrical part you should
>> probably call an electrician though.
>>
>> Dan
>