"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:t%[email protected]...
> Hi. I was using my bro's hand held 7 1/4" Craftsman saw today with a rip
> blade to try and remove ply subflooring. The ply was 3 layers thick in
> most
> places, about 1.75" total and the saw seemed to hang up easily. Is it
> just
> underpowered for this type of job, or was the blade worn?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
Probably both. Raise the blade so you are barely cutting through the first
layer of plywood.
You can rent a big saw, but you might have to buy a blade.
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:t%[email protected]...
> Hi. I was using my bro's hand held 7 1/4" Craftsman saw today with a rip
> blade to try and remove ply subflooring. The ply was 3 layers thick in
> most
> places, about 1.75" total and the saw seemed to hang up easily. Is it
> just
> underpowered for this type of job, or was the blade worn?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
First thing to know is, a circular saw does not like to cut circles. Doing
this type of demo work you will need a good supply of blades. I would
suggest some carbide tipped ones as you will definitely hit several
nails/fasteners along the way. Use a guide to insure a straight cut. Take
shallower cuts. Check blade often for overheating and warping. Stop when you
see smoke!
Dave
Look for a blade with the smallest number of teeth you can find.
Wilson
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:t%[email protected]...
> Hi. I was using my bro's hand held 7 1/4" Craftsman saw today with a rip
> blade to try and remove ply subflooring. The ply was 3 layers thick in
> most
> places, about 1.75" total and the saw seemed to hang up easily. Is it
> just
> underpowered for this type of job, or was the blade worn?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
>
Thanks for the replies. I've been using a "sawzall" mostly but thought I'd
try some shallower cuts with the circular. I just hadn't used one of those
before and didn't know what to expect.
dwhite
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:t%[email protected]...
> > Hi. I was using my bro's hand held 7 1/4" Craftsman saw today with a
rip
> > blade to try and remove ply subflooring. The ply was 3 layers thick in
> > most
> > places, about 1.75" total and the saw seemed to hang up easily. Is it
> > just
> > underpowered for this type of job, or was the blade worn?
> >
> > thanks,
> > dwhite
> >
>
> First thing to know is, a circular saw does not like to cut circles.
Doing
> this type of demo work you will need a good supply of blades. I would
> suggest some carbide tipped ones as you will definitely hit several
> nails/fasteners along the way. Use a guide to insure a straight cut. Take
> shallower cuts. Check blade often for overheating and warping. Stop when
you
> see smoke!
>
> Dave
>
>
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:t%[email protected]:
> Hi. I was using my bro's hand held 7 1/4" Craftsman saw today with a
> rip blade to try and remove ply subflooring. The ply was 3 layers
> thick in most places, about 1.75" total and the saw seemed to hang up
> easily. Is it just underpowered for this type of job, or was the
> blade worn?
>
> thanks,
> dwhite
>
>
That's a pretty big job for most any handheld saw...
New blades, in multiblade packs, are pretty cheap, however. And with this
kind of work, hitting buried fastners, adhesives and knots, you're going to
want new ones pretty regularly.
Another alternative is a reciprocating saw (Sawzall is one brand name).
This is _not_ a precision tool in most workers' hands, however. But for
demolition and tearout, it's probably safer...
Patriarch