Re: Sanding Sanding Sealers

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Hi Mike, I typically use pure tung oil, but have recently been
> broadening my horizons. Having heard that Shellac seals better, I
> thought to give it a chance. My wood projects typically are either
> hard and soft maple, mahogany, or walnut. I am currently working on a
> peruvian walnut project that I would like to try sealer on. The
> finish, this time of year, I will use is Waterlox.
>
> Thanks for your time.
>
> -Ronn
>
Hi Ron

As with many woodworking things there can be many descriptive phrases
that can be used to cover two or three different functions.

Too put things in some perspective

Sanding sealer - As I said previously, something to put on the wood that
contains metallic soaps to make sanding the first coat easier by
preventing corning but can adversely effect the strength of your finish.

Sealer/conditioner (a Min Wax term) - something used to control
splotching when staining problematic wood IE Pine or cherry. These work
by partially sealing wood cells so a stain is absorbed more evenly.

Wood filler/pore filler - Something that is used, when using a surface
finish, to fill the pores of open pored wood IE Oak and Walnut

Sanding sealer can be used to control splotching when staining
problematic wood but you still have the bug a boo of the metallic soaps.
Better to use a sealer/conditioner or a highly thinned application of
the finish you are going to use or a one pound cut of dewaxed shellac.
Even better is to not stain unless circumstances demand it IE matching
existing furniture or room trim. Staining is not a required finishing
function. Many woods take stain well and, except for end grain, require
no conditioner or sealer. It's slays best to test a stain on finish
sanded pieces of project scrap before putting it on the project itself.

If you are using an oil finish, a finish that doesn't build, tung,
linseed, Danish, wood filler/pore filler are not needed. On woods such
as oak, walnut, and mahogany a filler will, well, fill the open pores so
the whole surface of the wood is flat and smooth. This can also be
accomplished by applying and cutting back, by sanding, the intendedd
finish until the pores are filled. On a tight grained wood like maple
this would not be needed. If you are going to stain it is best to do so
before applying a filler.

As an aside on the last, when I use a pore filler I like to use
crystalac water based. It dries clear and eliminates the need to match
colors.

Hope that helps a bit.


--
MikeG
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
[email protected]