Hello All,
I'm putting new kitchen cabinets in my kitchen and I'm almost done with my
uppers. There are four places where the "ends" are visible and the cabinet
manufacturer gave me skins (around an 1/8" thick) to make the ends appear
like the face frames.
My question is how do these attach? Do I just glew and clamp them at the
top and bottom running a 2x4 between the clamps at the top and bottom to
hold the middle or is there another way this is done?
Thanks,
Eric
On Aug 22, 9:51=A0pm, "Eric Scantlebury" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I'm putting new kitchen cabinets in my kitchen and I'm almost done with m=
y
> uppers. =A0There are four places where the "ends" are visible and the cab=
inet
> manufacturer gave me skins (around an 1/8" thick) to make the ends appear
> like the face frames.
>
> My question is how do these attach? =A0Do I just glew and clamp them at t=
he
> top and bottom running a 2x4 between the clamps at the top and bottom to
> hold the middle or is there another way this is done?
>
> Thanks,
> Eric
I use contact cement for that job. But make sure you're comfortable
with that.
On Aug 23, 7:27 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Aug 23, 8:22 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> Yup PL600 and a pin nailer would be very efficient and durable as well.
For us, it's great. In your biz, you probably buy that stuff by the
drum. For us, about a quart every couple of years unless we actually
*gasp* get a little plastic laminate work.
You guys are just too much faster and too much better for the most
part than we are, so I don't even consider it much anymore. I call
Johnny at "AAA Best Plastics" and as he knocks out a custom kitchen so
fast I am always glad I called.
For anyone worried about seeing waves in a poly application from a
tube, if you see waves, you put too much on. Start with the
perimeter, running a bead about 3/16" x 3/16" an inch or so in. Then
fill in with lines about two inches apart over the whole skin with
beads about the same size. No problems there.
BTW, I like that PL600 a lot. I used it to glue some hardened,
prefinished masonite bead board up in a house. I knew that super hard
face they cooked on it wouldn't look good patched. It was wainscot,
so I tacked sparingly under the chair rail, and then right in the
very edge.
That stuff has held perfectly around all doors, windows, fitted
corners with no problems. I put that stuff up about 3 years ago using
the PL600, and used that same bead board to skin under her bar and the
cabinet ends using the same adhesive.
Still looks great.
Robert
Robert
"Eric Scantlebury" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I'm putting new kitchen cabinets in my kitchen and I'm almost done with my
> uppers. There are four places where the "ends" are visible and the
cabinet
> manufacturer gave me skins (around an 1/8" thick) to make the ends appear
> like the face frames.
>
> My question is how do these attach?
It might just be a glue up, but the proper method might be quite different.
Contact the manufacturer.
On Aug 23, 11:25 pm, "Eric Scantlebury" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
Yup PL600 and a pin nailer would be very efficient and durable as
well.
>
> I've been sanding off the finish on any joint that needs to be made - I'll
> continue that. I'm thinking of "roughing" the cabinet and gluing the "raw"
> wood skin.
I have Lowes cheap Oak" unfinished cabinets in the place I bought. The
Heimbold's ** "pins" came right through the walls of the cabinets -
watch out for that!
I like the Contact cement solution and the cauls. Not sure I would
"go" with squeezing adhesive out of one of those round "caulking gun"
tube things. Rather an adhesive i could keep relatively even and
"light" to afford the smoothest surface - no waves.
Contact cement is used to adhere Formica (plastic) to wood substrates
and (the original stuff) will stick to the photo finish easy - not
sure about the environmentally safe version - I don't like it.
If you can get the original and spray it on - it'll never fall off,
you'll avoid all that clamping and waiting (; for the glue to dry.
Having said all that, the task is not Rocket Science and the
foreseeable stresses on the application are such (thousands of
eyeballs looking at it) that the job could likely be accomplished with
a can of spray adhesive and a well-placed pin-nail or four & turning
the cabinet up on the opposite end and stacking a few heavy tomes on
the up ended surface so skinned.
**Heimbold is the name of the seller who "remodeled the place" without
recourse to a list like this, text, manual, or experienced friend or
neighbor. My time is spent removing his renovations and repairs and
the Kitchen is awaiting such re-remodeling with the Lowes Oak Cabinets
slated for the work shop. Each time we come upon another instance of
his "skill set" I cry out "Its a Heimbold."
Hence, when folks come here with "stupid questions," I try to actually
help them out. If not for them, then for the fellow who they sell the
result to!
On Aug 29, 10:11=A0pm, "Eric Scantlebury" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Ok - thanks all for the responses. =A0Think I'll clue and cawl.
Good luck, Eric.
Robert
On Aug 23, 8:22=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Aug 22, 11:29=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I use contact cement for that job. But make sure you're comfortable
> > with that.
>
> My vote is polyurethane from a caulk tube, using cauls and clamps.
>
> On the bottom unit at the floor I might slip in a brad if there is
> base around it. =A0Same at the uppers if there is a crown molding.
>
> Robert
Yup PL600 and a pin nailer would be very efficient and durable as well.
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Aug 23, 11:25 pm, "Eric Scantlebury" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Yup PL600 and a pin nailer would be very efficient and durable as
> well.
>>
>> I've been sanding off the finish on any joint that needs to be made -
>> I'll
>> continue that. I'm thinking of "roughing" the cabinet and gluing the
>> "raw"
>> wood skin.
>
> I have Lowes cheap Oak" unfinished cabinets in the place I bought. The
> Heimbold's ** "pins" came right through the walls of the cabinets -
> watch out for that!
>
> I like the Contact cement solution and the cauls. Not sure I would
> "go" with squeezing adhesive out of one of those round "caulking gun"
> tube things. Rather an adhesive i could keep relatively even and
> "light" to afford the smoothest surface - no waves.
>
> Contact cement is used to adhere Formica (plastic) to wood substrates
> and (the original stuff) will stick to the photo finish easy - not
> sure about the environmentally safe version - I don't like it.
>
> If you can get the original and spray it on - it'll never fall off,
> you'll avoid all that clamping and waiting (; for the glue to dry.
>
> Having said all that, the task is not Rocket Science and the
> foreseeable stresses on the application are such (thousands of
> eyeballs looking at it) that the job could likely be accomplished with
> a can of spray adhesive and a well-placed pin-nail or four & turning
> the cabinet up on the opposite end and stacking a few heavy tomes on
> the up ended surface so skinned.
>
>
> **Heimbold is the name of the seller who "remodeled the place" without
> recourse to a list like this, text, manual, or experienced friend or
> neighbor. My time is spent removing his renovations and repairs and
> the Kitchen is awaiting such re-remodeling with the Lowes Oak Cabinets
> slated for the work shop. Each time we come upon another instance of
> his "skill set" I cry out "Its a Heimbold."
>
> Hence, when folks come here with "stupid questions," I try to actually
> help them out. If not for them, then for the fellow who they sell the
> result to!
Ok - thanks all for the responses. Think I'll clue and cawl.
On Aug 22, 11:29=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> I use contact cement for that job. But make sure you're comfortable
> with that.
My vote is polyurethane from a caulk tube, using cauls and clamps.
On the bottom unit at the floor I might slip in a brad if there is
base around it. Same at the uppers if there is a crown molding.
Robert
On Fri, 22 Aug 2008 21:51:20 -0400, "Eric Scantlebury"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm putting new kitchen cabinets in my kitchen and I'm almost done with my
>uppers. There are four places where the "ends" are visible and the cabinet
>manufacturer gave me skins (around an 1/8" thick) to make the ends appear
>like the face frames.
>
>My question is how do these attach? Do I just glew and clamp them at the
>top and bottom running a 2x4 between the clamps at the top and bottom to
>hold the middle or is there another way this is done?
It depends on whether the ends have a plastic photo finish on them or
are real wood or raw. Almost nothing will stick to the plastic and
when it does, it only holds as well as the plastic does to the
cabinet. Normally we rough the hell out of the photo finish (down to
whatever is under it) and glue them on with construction adhesive and
a few pins while the glue dries. You don't need to remove all of the
plastic, just enough to have some places where the glue will actually
stick to something. If the ends are raw, wood glue will hold them
fine.
Mike O.
"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 22 Aug 2008 21:51:20 -0400, "Eric Scantlebury"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I'm putting new kitchen cabinets in my kitchen and I'm almost done with my
>>uppers. There are four places where the "ends" are visible and the
>>cabinet
>>manufacturer gave me skins (around an 1/8" thick) to make the ends appear
>>like the face frames.
>>
>>My question is how do these attach? Do I just glew and clamp them at the
>>top and bottom running a 2x4 between the clamps at the top and bottom to
>>hold the middle or is there another way this is done?
>
> It depends on whether the ends have a plastic photo finish on them or
> are real wood or raw. Almost nothing will stick to the plastic and
> when it does, it only holds as well as the plastic does to the
> cabinet. Normally we rough the hell out of the photo finish (down to
> whatever is under it) and glue them on with construction adhesive and
> a few pins while the glue dries. You don't need to remove all of the
> plastic, just enough to have some places where the glue will actually
> stick to something. If the ends are raw, wood glue will hold them
> fine.
I've been sanding off the finish on any joint that needs to be made - I'll
continue that. I'm thinking of "roughing" the cabinet and gluing the "raw"
wood skin.