On Jul 27, 4:38=A0pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jul 27, 4:25=A0pm, tonyfranciozi <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I'm thinking about bidding on this saw:
>
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D250670448957&ssPag.=
..
>
> > Any idea what it's worth or how much time goes into sharpening a saw
> > like this one?
>
> Google loves you, brother:http://www.medalliontools.com/HandsawSharpening=
Service.html
> but the prices will vary by quite a bit, based on area, skill and
> demand. =A0Here's a guy who specializes in sharpening Japanese saws:http:=
//www.daikudojo.org/Links/mark_grable_saw_sharpening_service.html
>
> The amount of work involved...?http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/=
sharp.html
>
> > Just how difficult is it to do a decent sharpening job?
>
> Define decent. =A0A guy that knows what he's doing will _improve_ on the
> factory sharpening job. =A0The seller from that auction has 100%
> positive feedback, says he sharpened it himself and that he stands
> behind his work. =A0What are you questioning about the seller or
> auction?
>
> R
Just finished reading vintage saw's guide to filing. The whole
process sounds like a lot of very tedious work. Thanks for the links!
In article
<[email protected]>,
tonyfranciozi <[email protected]> wrote:
> Just finished reading vintage saw's guide to filing. The whole
> process sounds like a lot of very tedious work. Thanks for the links!
Like many things it depends on whether you keep on top of it! Good steel,
do it regularly, it's a few strokes of the file per tooth. Wait till the
saw has got blunt and it can take a while.
Also like many things, I heard that pre-war Distons - very good, post war
not so good.
On Jul 27, 4:25=A0pm, tonyfranciozi <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm thinking about bidding on this saw:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D250670448957&ssPag..=
.
>
> Any idea what it's worth or how much time goes into sharpening a saw
> like this one?
Google loves you, brother:
http://www.medalliontools.com/HandsawSharpeningService.html
but the prices will vary by quite a bit, based on area, skill and
demand. Here's a guy who specializes in sharpening Japanese saws:
http://www.daikudojo.org/Links/mark_grable_saw_sharpening_service.html
The amount of work involved...?
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html
> Just how difficult is it to do a decent sharpening job?
Define decent. A guy that knows what he's doing will _improve_ on the
factory sharpening job. The seller from that auction has 100%
positive feedback, says he sharpened it himself and that he stands
behind his work. What are you questioning about the seller or
auction?
R
On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:25:15 -0700 (PDT), tonyfranciozi
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm thinking about bidding on this saw:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250670448957&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
>
>Any idea what it's worth or how much time goes into sharpening a saw
>like this one?
>
>Just how difficult is it to do a decent sharpening job?
>
>Thanks in advance
Well, it sold just a bit ago for $15.99. Did you, or someone else on the group
buy it? Curious, as opposed to trollish, minds want to know.
Regards,
Roy
P.S. - No whacked out psychos off their meds need to respond to this thread.
Just be on your way. (hands making schooshing motions)
"tonyfranciozi" <[email protected]> wrote
> Any idea what it's worth or how much time goes into sharpening a saw
> like this one?
>
> Just how difficult is it to do a decent sharpening job?
To get some idea of what is involved, Tony might like to look at
http://tinyurl.com/35no6kj
Jeff
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:25:15 -0700 (PDT), tonyfranciozi
<[email protected]> wrote the following:
>I'm thinking about bidding on this saw:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250670448957&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
>
>Any idea what it's worth or how much time goes into sharpening a saw
>like this one?
If you flatten and reset all teeth, then sharpen, your first one might
take you a couple hours. The second would take you less than an hour,
and the third about half an hour, once you develop the feel for it and
get into the groove. It's a Zen thing.
>Just how difficult is it to do a decent sharpening job?
Not all that difficult...if you have the patience.
--
It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness;
poverty and wealth have both failed.
-- Kin Hubbard
>I wouldn't go over $15 including the shipping for a saw I'd never seen.
>And $10 without shipping will buy you a good old Disston, or Atkins, or
>Simonds, etc. if you're willing to invest some time going to estate sales.
OTOH, it might be worth the $12.58 (current bid plus shipping) just to
cut it up and make scrapers.
Just a thought.
-Zz
On Wed, 28 Jul 2010 23:10:41 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote the following:
>
>tonyfranciozi wrote:
>
>>I'm thinking about bidding on this saw:
>>
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250670448957&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
>-------------------------------------
>You can buy a new one locally for maybe $5 more than shipping charges.
>
>Why bother?
Why buy a James Swan slick when you could have a brand new 4-pc Harbor
Freight chisel -set- for only $5, Lew?
--
It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness;
poverty and wealth have both failed.
-- Kin Hubbard
On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 23:39:14 +0100, Stuart <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article
><[email protected]>,
> tonyfranciozi <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Just finished reading vintage saw's guide to filing. The whole
>> process sounds like a lot of very tedious work. Thanks for the links!
IANAE, but my observations based on my limited efforts to date.
Rip is much easier to sharpen than crosscut, IMO. I don't do much handsaw
ripping except when cutting dovetails.
Circle Saw in Houston will machine sharpen your crosscut or rip saw for $3 or
$4. It comes back to you sharp and with the amount of set you specify. Allow
a week for the service. They engrave your name on the blade unless you tape
lots of notes on it telling them NOT to engrave the saw.
(as I type this, NCIS is on and Gibbs is sharpening a handsaw with a saw vise
mounted on what looks like one of Morris Dovey's tripod sawhorses and some sort
of file holder/guide I did not recognize.).
Finding the right files can be a PIA. The internet ended up being my friend..
Put a handle on the file before you use it (should go without saying, but
sometimes I get in a hurry and then poke a hole in my hand).
Store your sharpening files in soda straws.
Get a cheap saw at yard sales to practice on. Use it for a scraper later.
>
>Like many things it depends on whether you keep on top of it! Good steel,
>do it regularly, it's a few strokes of the file per tooth. Wait till the
>saw has got blunt and it can take a while.
>
>Also like many things, I heard that pre-war Distons - very good, post war
>not so good.
>
I have one D23 purchased new in 1983. It has been a good saw, and cut a lot of
wood over the years. Maybe not as good as the older ones, but still a good
saw..
Maybe Josh or Luigi will wade in on the topic. They have a lot more experience
than I do.
Regards,
Roy
On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:25:15 -0700, tonyfranciozi wrote:
> I'm thinking about bidding on this saw:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=250670448957&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
>
> Any idea what it's worth or how much time goes into sharpening a saw
> like this one?
>
> Just how difficult is it to do a decent sharpening job?
>
> Thanks in advance
Not one of Disston's best, but not a bad saw. Take a look at:
http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/d23page.html
The 10 ppi is a fairly rough cutting saw, not a finishing saw.
As far as sharpening, it requires a moderate amount of practice and the
proper files.
I wouldn't go over $15 including the shipping for a saw I'd never seen.
And $10 without shipping will buy you a good old Disston, or Atkins, or
Simonds, etc. if you're willing to invest some time going to estate sales.
Me, I'm partial to the Atkins "Silver Steel" line, but they are difficult
to find.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
A cross cut uses a tooth set - one that bends each for the kerf.
On a rip saw the teeth are in-line. Little or no kerf added.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/
On 7/27/2010 6:51 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:25:15 -0700, tonyfranciozi wrote:
>
>> I'm thinking about bidding on this saw:
>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&item=250670448957&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
>>
>> Any idea what it's worth or how much time goes into sharpening a saw
>> like this one?
>>
>> Just how difficult is it to do a decent sharpening job?
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>
> Not one of Disston's best, but not a bad saw. Take a look at:
>
> http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/d23page.html
>
> The 10 ppi is a fairly rough cutting saw, not a finishing saw.
>
> As far as sharpening, it requires a moderate amount of practice and the
> proper files.
>
> I wouldn't go over $15 including the shipping for a saw I'd never seen.
> And $10 without shipping will buy you a good old Disston, or Atkins, or
> Simonds, etc. if you're willing to invest some time going to estate sales.
>
> Me, I'm partial to the Atkins "Silver Steel" line, but they are difficult
> to find.
>