Well, this probably sounds like a bizarre story, but here goes! I have
been working on a remodel and have been using a room as a bit of a
storage room. It has red oak, hardwood floors. Well, I apparently had
a can of "dry" Lye (Draino) in a box upright. Never thought it would be
a problem. Had forgotten about it. Well, to my horror, when I moved
the box to do some cleaning, I noticed that the container apparently had
opened up (probably moisture got in some how, and leaked through the box
and eaten an area about 3X4. It was caked on, so I had to scrape it
off. I doused with water, vinegar and orange soap, and think I got most
of it, however when I put vinegar on it it still turns a bit white.
Think this is probably the Lye? But I do not know what more to do. It
has eaten a gap between a couple of the wood planks and eaten into the
grain of the wood. The top layer of the wood feels a bit soft, although
it is probably still a bit wet. I do not know whether I will be able to
sand this down and re-coat with a polyurethene or what? It would be a
pain to cut out the boards as it involves two. One rather short one,
and one longer one. They are attached to a plywood subdecking, so it
probably isn't that big of a deal. But to get it to match, etc. will be
a pain. It is a stained floor, to boot! Also, what filler do hardwood
guys use to fill hardwood imperfections? Anyone have any experience
with this or suggestions, please help. Will Lye stay in the wood and
continue to eat at it, or will it be okay once dry, filled, stained and
covered with poly?
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 18:27:44 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Well, this probably sounds like a bizarre story, but here goes! I have
>been working on a remodel and have been using a room as a bit of a
>storage room. It has red oak, hardwood floors. Well, I apparently had
>a can of "dry" Lye (Draino) in a box upright. Never thought it would be
>a problem. Had forgotten about it. Well, to my horror, when I moved
>the box to do some cleaning, I noticed that the container apparently had
>opened up (probably moisture got in some how, and leaked through the box
>and eaten an area about 3X4. It was caked on, so I had to scrape it
>off. I doused with water, vinegar and orange soap, and think I got most
>of it, however when I put vinegar on it it still turns a bit white.
>Think this is probably the Lye? But I do not know what more to do. It
>has eaten a gap between a couple of the wood planks and eaten into the
>grain of the wood. The top layer of the wood feels a bit soft, although
>it is probably still a bit wet. I do not know whether I will be able to
>sand this down and re-coat with a polyurethene or what? It would be a
>pain to cut out the boards as it involves two. One rather short one,
>and one longer one. They are attached to a plywood subdecking, so it
>probably isn't that big of a deal. But to get it to match, etc. will be
>a pain. It is a stained floor, to boot! Also, what filler do hardwood
>guys use to fill hardwood imperfections? Anyone have any experience
>with this or suggestions, please help. Will Lye stay in the wood and
>continue to eat at it, or will it be okay once dry, filled, stained and
>covered with poly?
The flushing with water probably helps the most since lye (NaOH) is
very water soluble. Most likely the white color is salts. Lye
reacts with wood and is often used to darken/age cherry. The vinegar
should help neutralize it, but to be sure you can use litmus paper or
something to read the pH. Since this is a stained floor, I'd apply
a patch with wood taken from an inconspicuous location. There are
router collars and bits you can use to route out the damaged part and
cut a matching patch to be glued into place. Hardboard can be used to
make a template.
Personally, I would not use it, but you can use Bondo to fill the
hole. Bondo cures in just a few minutes, so you need to plan and work
fast.
Drain cleaners, muriatic acid, and other caustic chemicals create a
hazard and a problem about how to dispose these chemicals in a
responsible manner. I try to use alternatives, even with a college
degree in chemistry.
On Apr 3, 9:27 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
> Lye (Draino) in a box upright. Never thought it would be
> a problem. Had forgotten about it. Well, to my horror, when I moved
> the box to do some cleaning, I noticed that the container apparently had
> opened up (probably moisture got in some how, and leaked through the box
> and eaten an area about 3X4.
Unless it was sealed in a container impermeable to water vapor
(most plastic wrap is NOT impermeable to water vapor) it probably
absorbed water vapor from the air. Sodium Hydroxide is deliquescent,
which means it will absorb moisture from the air until there is enough
moisture to fully dissolve it.
Draino also has aluminum flakes in it so it also gets hot and
releases hydrogen gas when it dissolves.
It sounds like your cleanup was thorough, there should be
no lye left in the wood.
Others have already advised you on how to repair.
Good luck.
--
FF
[email protected] wrote:
> Well, this probably sounds like a bizarre story, but here goes!
> I have been working on a remodel and have been using a room as
> a bit of a
> storage room. It has red oak, hardwood floors. Well, I
> apparently had
> a can of "dry" Lye (Draino) in a box upright. Never thought it
> would be
> a problem. Had forgotten about it. Well, to my horror, when I
> moved the box to do some cleaning, I noticed that the container
> apparently had opened up (probably moisture got in some how,
> and leaked through the box
> and eaten an area about 3X4. It was caked on, so I had to
> scrape it
> off. I doused with water, vinegar and orange soap, and think I
> got most of it, however when I put vinegar on it it still turns
> a bit white.
> Think this is probably the Lye? But I do not know what more to
> do. It has eaten a gap between a couple of the wood planks and
> eaten into the
> grain of the wood. The top layer of the wood feels a bit soft,
> although
> it is probably still a bit wet. I do not know whether I will
> be able to
> sand this down and re-coat with a polyurethene or what? It
> would be a
> pain to cut out the boards as it involves two. One rather
> short one,
> and one longer one. They are attached to a plywood subdecking,
> so it
> probably isn't that big of a deal. But to get it to match,
> etc. will be
> a pain. It is a stained floor, to boot! Also, what filler do
> hardwood
> guys use to fill hardwood imperfections? Anyone have any
> experience
> with this or suggestions, please help. Will Lye stay in the
> wood and continue to eat at it, or will it be okay once dry,
> filled, stained and covered with poly?
I'd replace the 2 sections. Do you have a closet in that room
with the same stained floor? You can replace the ones in closet
and it will be less noticeable.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
On Apr 3, 9:27 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> Well, this probably sounds like a bizarre story, but here goes! I have
> been working on a remodel and have been using a room as a bit of a
> storage room. It has red oak, hardwood floors. Well, I apparently had
> a can of "dry" Lye (Draino) in a box upright. Never thought it would be
> a problem. Had forgotten about it. Well, to my horror, when I moved
> the box to do some cleaning, I noticed that the container apparently had
> opened up (probably moisture got in some how, and leaked through the box
> and eaten an area about 3X4. It was caked on, so I had to scrape it
> off. I doused with water, vinegar and orange soap, and think I got most
> of it, however when I put vinegar on it it still turns a bit white.
> Think this is probably the Lye? But I do not know what more to do. It
> has eaten a gap between a couple of the wood planks and eaten into the
> grain of the wood. The top layer of the wood feels a bit soft, although
> it is probably still a bit wet. I do not know whether I will be able to
> sand this down and re-coat with a polyurethene or what? It would be a
> pain to cut out the boards as it involves two. One rather short one,
> and one longer one. They are attached to a plywood subdecking, so it
> probably isn't that big of a deal. But to get it to match, etc. will be
> a pain. It is a stained floor, to boot! Also, what filler do hardwood
> guys use to fill hardwood imperfections? Anyone have any experience
> with this or suggestions, please help. Will Lye stay in the wood and
> continue to eat at it, or will it be okay once dry, filled, stained and
> covered with poly?
Piecing in a couple of boards is not that hard. You do not have to
replace the entire longer board.
http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9B0DE2DC1238F932A35752C1A961948260
or if you like pictures
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/fc_hardwood/article/0,,DIY_13813_2269584,00.htm
I like Woodwise filler, but they're pretty much the same. It's
probably a surer bet to replace boards. You might also want to
consider staining and finishing the replacement boards before
installation. It's very possible that matching will be easier if
you're working on them on a workbench than on the floor and trying not
to mess up the existing boards. You can make several samples and use
the boards that are the closest match.
R
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Well, this probably sounds like a bizarre story, but here goes!
<snip a tale of woe with Draino>
There is a cleaner, sold under the trade name TE-KA, to the marine
industry to clean trim teak on boats.
Part "A" is caustic soda (base for Draino) that is applied to the
surface to bleach the teak back to a honey color.
After Part "A", you apply Part "B" which is phosphoric acid to
neutralize Part "A".
After that, you flush with fresh water
It works as advertised with a caveat.
The caustic eats away the soft fibers of the teak leaving a very rough
surface which you now have to sand down to get it smooth.
Pretty soon, you don't have any teak left.
Point of that little story is that the Draino has probably eaten away
some of the wood fibers which will require either filling and sanding
with something or replacing the damaged wood.
My guess it will require replacement.
Good luck.
Lew