I was ripping some 3/4" cherry this evening, the first time I've ripped
hardwood on this saw. The wood became hard to feed about halfway through,
and a lot of the pieces came out with burn marks on the piece
between the blade and fence. Also, the pieces were very slightly convex
on the blade side (I think it was the blade side, at least).
This made me think the rip fence was out of adjustment, but to the extent
I'm able to tell, it appears to be exactly parallel to the blade and to
the table. I'm going to borrow a dial indicator and make damn sure it's
parallel (or, more likely, angled away a couple thousandths), but in the
meantime, are there other things that can cause this? The saw is a
Craftsman 22122 (or something like that); it's the mid-range model of
their new line (cast-iron wings but no Biesemeyer fence).
--
-Chip Olson. | ceo2 at thsi dot org | remove the 2 to reply
Sometimes there are internal stresses in the wood, and by cutting out a kerf
you're allowing the wood to move to relieve the stress. If the stresses are
from the outside of the board towards the middle (where you're making the
cut), the two ends want to pinch together, grabbing the back side of the
blade. Having a splitter the same size as your saw kerf would be a good
idea--there's significant risk of kickback if this is what's happening.
- Owen -
"Chip Olson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I was ripping some 3/4" cherry this evening, the first time I've ripped
> hardwood on this saw. The wood became hard to feed about halfway through,
> and a lot of the pieces came out with burn marks on the piece
> between the blade and fence. Also, the pieces were very slightly convex
> on the blade side (I think it was the blade side, at least).
>
> This made me think the rip fence was out of adjustment, but to the extent
> I'm able to tell, it appears to be exactly parallel to the blade and to
> the table. I'm going to borrow a dial indicator and make damn sure it's
> parallel (or, more likely, angled away a couple thousandths), but in the
> meantime, are there other things that can cause this? The saw is a
> Craftsman 22122 (or something like that); it's the mid-range model of
> their new line (cast-iron wings but no Biesemeyer fence).
>
> --
> -Chip Olson. | ceo2 at thsi dot org | remove the 2 to reply
>
Or the edge you're ripping against isn't straight. Appears much more
likely, given you've checked.
Dial indicator will tell you how far - so will a set of feeler gages, but
it's a go/no-go decision, so who cares how far. Any item which does not
decrease in length as you butt it against the fence and the selected tooth
forward and then aft is fine. Of course, you can have a bit more
distance - light showing - aft, and give yourself a bit of extra
anti-kickback protection.
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Cherry burns very easily, but it should not bind; in fact cherry cuts like
> butter.
> Either your blade or the fence are out of square.
>
> Does your saw have the alinarip (or something like that) fence? People
make
> fun of Craftsman, but mine is perfectly square ever time.
>
>
Chip Olson <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I was ripping some 3/4" cherry this evening, the first time I've ripped
> hardwood on this saw. The wood became hard to feed about halfway through,
> and a lot of the pieces came out with burn marks on the piece
> between the blade and fence. Also, the pieces were very slightly convex
> on the blade side (I think it was the blade side, at least).
>
> This made me think the rip fence was out of adjustment, but to the extent
> I'm able to tell, it appears to be exactly parallel to the blade and to
> the table. I'm going to borrow a dial indicator and make damn sure it's
> parallel (or, more likely, angled away a couple thousandths), but in the
> meantime, are there other things that can cause this? The saw is a
> Craftsman 22122 (or something like that); it's the mid-range model of
> their new line (cast-iron wings but no Biesemeyer fence).
A bad blade, a warped fence. While you have the dial indicator, align
the fence to the miter gauge slot first then align the table to the
blade.
Cherry BURNS if you use a feed rate that is to slow.... but binding is
not normally a problem... Pine on the other had binds like crazy
butr does not burn easily....
My fence is offset ever so slightly at the back of the table..away
from the blade ....learned long ago that my saws all have preformed
better that way... then having the Fence absolutely parallel to the
blade...
You also better have a straight edge on the work piece that rides the
fence..
Food for thought !
Bob Griffiths
On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 00:16:36 -0500, Chip Olson <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I was ripping some 3/4" cherry this evening, the first time I've ripped
>hardwood on this saw. The wood became hard to feed about halfway through,
>and a lot of the pieces came out with burn marks on the piece
>between the blade and fence. Also, the pieces were very slightly convex
>on the blade side (I think it was the blade side, at least).
>
>This made me think the rip fence was out of adjustment, but to the extent
>I'm able to tell, it appears to be exactly parallel to the blade and to
>the table. I'm going to borrow a dial indicator and make damn sure it's
>parallel (or, more likely, angled away a couple thousandths), but in the
>meantime, are there other things that can cause this? The saw is a
>Craftsman 22122 (or something like that); it's the mid-range model of
>their new line (cast-iron wings but no Biesemeyer fence).
On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 00:16:36 -0500, Chip Olson wrote:
>
> I was ripping some 3/4" cherry this evening, the first time I've ripped
> hardwood on this saw. The wood became hard to feed about halfway through,
> and a lot of the pieces came out with burn marks on the piece between the
> blade and fence. Also, the pieces were very slightly convex on the blade
> side (I think it was the blade side, at least).
I did some measuring tonight and determined that the fence was fine, but
the table was out of alignment to the blade. Some rubber-mallet therapy
and it's cutting much better. (Also determined that the miter gauge was
out of square.)
--
-Chip Olson. | ceo2 at thsi dot org | remove the 2 to reply